Building the Op-amp Tester for single, dual & quad packages. Dual-polarity LED indicator.

[@DavidTipton101]

Very neat project Manuel, kudos. I have no need for one but I like your simple design 👍🙂

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks Dave.

[@Moonscientistco.575]

Hello, I just built one and it works perfectly, highly recommended ,Thx ,Grtz

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@dextertech6570]

As always, great project

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks

[@johnm7723]

Thanks for yet another interesting video, really enjoy your output. Even purchased on old Saba stereo radio in need of some TLC, will enjoy that on the rainy days in the autumn.. On the topic of 3D printer I took the plunge and purchased a Sovol 01 Pro, I was a total novice.. It was relatively inexpensive but has printed very well from day 1. It is partly assembled , so the accuracy seems to be good. Often get promo deals direct from Solvol and I got my delivery from the UK.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@bofor3948]

Bulldog clip was the name I was looking for.

[@paulperano9236]

Looks good thanks Manuel.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks

[@bofor3948]

seem to remember years ago a tool that looked like a clip board clip. It gripped the edges above the pins to be used to insert or remove IC's without bending pins. Found this one online (RVFM PB-16 IC Extraction/insertion Tool). may do the trick?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I also had one of those. Must be here somewhere 😊

[@sincerelyyours7538]

Looks very useful! I think you can break the board with your hands if you place the perforated line along the sharp edge of a table top and bend down the overhanging part with the palm of your hand while pressing down on the non-overhanging part with your other hand. Or is the board too strong for that kind of persuasion?

[@xyredmax]

I usually put them in a vice and they snap clean and easy

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Tried that and still couldn’t break it 😊

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@philathomas]

Simple, I like it. I shall be adding to my next pcbway order, except maybe a lighter color.😊

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@BeetleJuice1980]

i built your circuit but i cant find these leds with 2 pins and dual color. can you help with the part number? thank you for the project!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Just do a search on mouser or DigiKey.

[@BeetleJuice1980]

@@electronicsoldandnew i bought all parts from mouser an jclc , did not find any dual color led with 2 pins , only 3 pins. is it something special?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

mou.sr/49NnvoB

[@Michlag]

Maestro, a huge thank you for this project. I throw an idea, what would be useful, a sort of frequency range analyzer and distortion analyzer? I know, there are many PC suites and softwares, bit I really find it not immediate nor intuitive to set up such a test rig with a personal computer... Perhaps you've done it already, perhaps not, well, I just toss a coin in the pond...

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I did a PC interface to use with the Visual Analyser software, but it is a little difficult to set up. Not sure a simple solution is possible. Might give it some thought. Thanks.

[@greengrayradio1394]

Nice tester! I will order boards and build one. I was thinking as you showed the sockets, why not sockets with turned pins? Right afterwards you gave the answer, but I would use them even they are tighter fit. Those will rip out the contacts if you try a used, unsoldered one.. Also, you could put small rubber feet in the underside, so you don't scratch your benchtop.. Otherwise, great!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@BJcanal270]

Do you know what kind of LEDs are used in this project. I already ordered but it looks like they are dual color but in only two pins. Are they reverse polarity or dual polarity. Or they change color as the voltage increases ????

[@KeriRautenkranz]

Thank you for the videos. On the subject of 3D printers, If you want a tool that can be relied upon, I recommend PRUSA Mini or MK4. They cost a bit more but are well thought out, dependable and well supported. The disadvantages are they are a bit slow and not the best at large, high temperature prints. If you enjoy a challenge, buy one of the cheap brands or build a Voron...

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍 thanks

[@DAVIDGREGORYKERR]

The Perusa XL 3D printer will facilitate all sizes of prints so project cases are possible.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@tubeDude48]

Maybe you can snap it off on a table edge. Haven't got a 3D Printer yet myself. But the *Elder* seems popular. But can't say for sure! The PIN Sockets are very tight! Do you not have one of those horse-shaped metal pullers? If you make a cover for the top, a puller will be hard to use, and a screw drive won't work. BTW- Slick little build! 👍

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Tried that. didn't work :) I’ll have a look at that 3D printer. Thanks

[@randomsteve4288]

And another thing to be aware of; I found these little tactile pushbutton switches to not be the most reliable things in terms of low on state pass through resistance and contact bouncing. Especially long term. I would have opted to have the switch not switch the power rail directly, but provide merely a base drive to a pnp bipolar transistor (or p Mosfet) which also enables provision for contact debouncing with the addition of a cap into the base drive circuit.

[@BJcanal270]

Share the link to get those LEDs please

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Had these in stock. Just search for bi-colour LEDs with two leads. Should be easy to find.

[@BJcanal270]

@@electronicsoldandnew I have a Rookies question. Is a Darlington Array an OP Amp? And can the be tested the same way?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

@BJcanal270 : no

[@BJcanal270]

@@electronicsoldandnew Thank you for your quick response. I will wait for the Darlington Array Tester project 👍

[@bobcassidy4325]

do you supply a component list

[@electronicsoldandnew]

No. Pause the video and the components are quite easily seen. 👍

[@mackfisher4487]

Manuel, I've always liked the rule keep it simple stupid "KISS" you follows this design criteria, your hardly stupid and your op amp tester is a great example good destine. "brilliant".

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thank you 😊

[@jean-pierredesoza2340]

Hi Manuel, Regarding 3D printing, you can't go wrong with Creality 3D's Ender 3 line of printers. You'll find the most basic one, pretty noisy, to the model with more features going from, quieter operations, to automatic bed levelling, or to touch + color control display, but all of them share a good foundation of design. Regarding the tools to design enclosures, and more, TinkerCad from Autodesk (creator of AutoCAD, Fusion 360, etc) is a good starting point. You'll be surprised how the CAD world is all integrated now. Consider yourself as a "geek buying" stuff, therefore a site of same name may exist to let you find what you need at the best price. Cheers, JP.

[@philathomas]

Agree with you sir, all I would add, and only because my son bought one and for the price I’m shocked how quiet it is as well as general performance, is the Anycubic Kobra Neo. As with most 3d printers in this price range, it’s essentially an ender clone, but for under $150 it’s a very good start printer m, not perfect but good value.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Have had a good look at the Ender 3 V2 neo. Looking probable 😊

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@mostlyoldthings]

The Ender3 V2 is pretty quiet compared to the original version. Also Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for private use and a fantastic and easy to use application, it also has electronic PCB design as another part of the package. I've been using the printer and Fusion 360 for a couple of years now and I definitely recommend both, trouble free to this point- Famous last words😊

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks 😊

[@randomsteve4288]

While the idea of having a blank PCB as bottom plate is close to genius, I would suggest putting the stand offs the other way around so the rounded heads of the screws make for the feet. If you put the nuts on the bottom like here you run the risk of scratching surfaces with the sharp edges of the screw thread sticking out. Ofc M3/M4 cap nuts (dome head nuts) would be the ultimate solution.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes, cap nuts would be best.

[@stephenbarlin2314]

Get a Prusa. They just work and they support their printers very well. I have had mine for3 years and it still does not seem out of date .

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@nickgames1892]

wich chip is used for U1?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

You can use a tl072

[@Sickindian5]

Where can I get your boards mate??

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Pcbway share section

[@Sickindian5]

Ok so I got it and can’t wait till it’s sent away to me but can you tell me what LED lights you’ve used??

[@Sickindian5]

Also what did you use for U1??

[@electronicsoldandnew]

@Sickindian5 : high brightness 5mm LEDs.

[@niknam.]

Thank you!!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Pleasure

[@flemmingchristiansen2462]

Great tool. About 3D printer. It seems that Bamboo Lab printers is the prefered one at the moment. Doesn´t PCBWay offer a 3D printing solution? It is easely $700-1000 + filaments and no one is plug´n´play, not yet, some get close but it is not like your "paper" printer.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

They do offer it but I still want one 😊 I guess I’ll be a good boy until Christmas 😊

[@jeffv.akaonsjeffke9865]

Great proyect for people that like to build guitar pedals, as you always will be using audio op-amps. Would have liked to see a bad one tested.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@EsotericArctos]

I've had good luck with the Ender range of 3D printers from Creality. I use and Ender 5, but I think the Ender 3 range is cheaper, if you don't mind slightly less accurate :) I've found my Ender 5 has been really good and really useful. I don't use it as much as I probably should, but at the same time I don't regret buying it

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍 thanks

[@t1d100]

👍

[@electronicsoldandnew]

😊

[@666kty3]

Where can I get one?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Build one 😊

[@666kty3]

I dont have time for any fun pet projects. Its 7 days a week with audio equipment and tube amp repair boss. @@electronicsoldandnew