Master PAR - Stop killing corals with these simple steps and keep your corals alive for years.

[@BRStv]

Now that Mastering Reef Tank Lighting miniseries is complete....do you feel like you can Master your own tank lights? ➡ brs.li/BRStv_ReefLighting_5MinGuide

[@tomclark7440]

You guys are the best bar none. Your detailed but simple to understand information is a must for anyone in the reefing hobby.

[@robertcookson7681]

Another great addition to the BRSTV library. Thanks for pulling all this together. Avid watching, always learning. In the future A.I. driven control systems will switch on and off reefing tools, control spectrum and lights and control dosers to pre-programmed levels.... "Hi Alexa please set my tank to BALI mixed reef" boom! done. Haha. Until then I rely on quality information from people I trust to make the best decisions I can. Thanks again. Awesome series. Can't wait for the next one!

[@glennrudolph]

You hit it on the head at 18:30. I think appropriate aquascape should be the main consideration for mixed reefs. The lighting and flow is easy if the scape is well thought out. It took me probably 3 weeks to get mine good for a mixed reef. The problem is that I don’t love the scape...luckily my corals do. So maybe I’ll love it when 1” becomes a colony.

[@theurbanartist775]

Thank you 🙏🏼 I have been killing coral for over a year from having my light mounted under the lid and killing coral from TOO MUCH PAR! 😢 I’ve immediately put it at 20% and will be watchful from there. 👍🏾

[@m.b.boyack2228]

Excellent video with a very professional presentation. At 10:00 mark the acronym 'DLI ' represents "Daily Light INTEGRAL" - the total amount of photons, measured in PAR, that land on a given target area in a 24 hour period, not "Daily Light INTERVAL" as stated. Cheers.

[@lundiboy8]

I have no problem running my g5 xr30 on my nuvo 40 at 20%. Complete even coverage was my priority and the par meter rental was almost spot on from your videos for my size tank with the scape I have. I could have succeeded with the g5 xr15 or a t5 blanket of light for cheaper but the xr30 with my tank size allows me to put whatever I want wherever I want.

[@marc_svsengineering4319]

I have a T5 hybrid with 2 Radeon 30s. I decided to use a par meter due to some corals bleaching. I was surprised of how consistent the par was regardless of tank depth on my drop down tank. I measured 200 to 300 par from 4” below the water line to 40” below the water line with no change. I had no hot spots or dead spots unless it was under a shelf. I decided to reduce my lighting to a range of 150/200 par. I then started thinking, I have no idea what par any of my corals require/like. Ya, everyone has an opinion on what’s best for sps vs lps but they are also quick to mention that they are few exceptions. So far, everyplace I have purchased my corals has no mention of par requirements or what they are using. “Low to medium light” doesn’t mean anything to me. It’s the same with water flow. My idea of low to moderate water flow is going to be a lot different from the next persons perspective. If we are going to use these instruments to accurately measure water, lighting, etc. the industry is going to have to change to accommodate those wanting this information. I am still a firm believer of acclimation and proper placement if possible (anemones). I think duration and consistency of light par/colors plays a big factor.

[@zso-ziad8514]

Thx for the advice!

[@Mike__B]

Re: Sun & Corals I think a bigger difference with wild vs. aquarium is that if you have an acropora that grows 4 inches in the wild it's going to be more or less than same light everywhere but in your tank that 4 inches of vertical growth can be a drastic change in light intensity from the bottom to the top, so when you got your frag it was very happy in the light you put it in but a year or two later the top part might have 50% more light and be a bit difficult for it. Also PAR vs PUR, while I'll agree chasing PUR is kind of pointless mostly because most of the lighting we use with LEDs, and to an extent T5s are very close to being all PUR type of PAR associated with them, but I do wonder on the Dana Riddle articles if his conclusions were based off corals in the wild (I know he did do the tidepool one) and if that's the case the Sun puts out a LOT more PAR than PUR as the energy across all wavelengths is fairly uniform compared to what we use over our tank even the whitest of white lights which are still mostly blue with some greens, reds and yellows mixed in to "whiten" it.

[@daveledoux865]

I have a nuvo 30 long I use 2 kesseil a80s at 85 intensity softy and lps love it

[@tyhawkins4766]

BRS TV ROCKS!!!!

[@marchen3101]

I want to ask bigger the watt of lamp cause bigger PAR value?

[@istandwithisreal8883]

Do you think you can make a video teaching us about the ratios of par to flow and from calcium to alkalinity and magnesium

[@StNovaSt]

I want to see BRS address Lux intensity measurement like Dana Riddle, that most of us could more easily use since we now have the AB+ approved spectrum. A Par meter is great but if we have a fixed spectrum, it would be easier to measure lux brightness at waterline. Knowing how bright to run lights with AB+ for X height tank for SPS and mixed tanks. Please.

[@elliottmelan3457]

Great video! I learned so much. You did not mention the Neptune System par meter. What do you think of that?

[@BRStv]

It certainly works. They use an Apogee sensor on their meter, which is one of the better sensors out there without breaking the bank. That said, sometimes a stand-alone meter is just easier to use.

[@EmersonBig13]

Please do a BRS Investigates on original Kessil A360NE and WE (which you still sell).

[@chercm]

please share more detail on the seneye hack that you doing

[@chercm]

i think some of the folks wants to know too

[@hurricaneaquatics]

What spectrometer does BRS use?

[@BRStv]

It's a UPRtek MK350s

[@hurricaneaquatics]

@@BRStv great thank you! Going to buy one.

[@clelandwarrenjr850]

I have a question for you Ryan and Randy I have XR fifteens 6' tank 24 deep 18 wide I take creep trying to find a video on the height and spread with for the XR fifteens and I cannot find one have you done 1 and what is the recommended height and distance apart from each other on a 6' tank

[@clelandwarrenjr850]

My email is [e-mail]

[@BRStv]

We didn't test the XR15's on a 6' tank, but this video should give you a really good starting point on mounting height. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ2YaWVsj9Ccf8k

[@oz969]

What would be the recommended PAR for a bubble tip anemone?

[@twofish7939]

I got mine at ~200par on a nano tank. Kessil a360wl mostly blue b/c I find that the bubbles disappear at whiter light

[@BRStv]

Around 200 par like Alan mentioned seems to be the sweet spot. The thing about bubble tips is that they'll move around if they're not happy with the light, so if you place them in 200 par, they can move to higher or lower par areas as they find necessary.

[@ajustice2010]

does any one know what filter they are using / recommend for pictures ?

[@BRStv]

I like to use the IceCap clip on lens if you're taking photos with your phone :) www.bulkreefsupply.com/clip-on-photo-lens-kit-icecap.html

[@ShawnHolman77]

What would be a good height for 4 39w T5s on 12 hours and 2 400w MHs on 2 hours a day on a 24" deep tank?

[@BRStv]

Unfortunately, we haven't tested that to give you an exact recommendation. Given that you have so much light over a 24" deep tank, you may be best served using a par meter to help set the mounting height so that you don't overload your coals with light.

[@ShawnHolman77]

@@BRStv At 30 inches I am at 800-900 at 6", 300ish at 20"

[@ShawnHolman77]

@@BRStv I have across at 8". Those PAR are with MHs on

[@ShawnHolman77]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6i0eZ9pqZp3fck

[@renechance]

Someone gave me a magnifica retteri cause they were breaking down their tank and moving. I took it but I have only had my tank for 6 months. I don’t have the 400 dollars for good lighting for it. I am using a flood light of 8500 k And a coralife seascape lighting

[@Name-ot3xw]

Under powering an led isn’t wasteful, if anything it helps extend the led’s already long life

[@marcelrodriguez2067]

Lol i have killed probably %90 of all my corals in the past 8 months of being in this hobby. Cant keep sps yet and some LPS aswell. I have noticed that havin gover 200 PAR in my tank is too much light for those corals apparently. I always thought 200 PAR was low for sps

[@papertowel2458]

I thought so too. I've bleached more than a good share of corals.

[@twofish7939]

probably corals become shocked to light and chemistry of your tank. I've lost pretty expensive pieces which made me learn my lesson in safe introduction and acclimation. Those corals you do keep, and have kept their color, watch those corals and learn how they behave. Just like any pet, your corals will tell you if something is off in the water if you have your light dialed in

[@KevinTorres-xc2sv]

Depends on what your par is based on, are you using white or pure blue spectrum? White tends to kill corals if exposed too much , blue spectrum light can be high and won’t kill anything

[@marcelrodriguez2067]

@@KevinTorres-xc2sv i was running kessils back then nd still do today, turns out the issue was the nutrients bottomed out. I currently run kessil a360x and reef brites and everything is growing well.

[@Andreas-gh6is]

It took you one minute of the video to spell out PAR...

[@Thegoldiegang]

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