Camry Timing Belt, Water Pump, Seals & Pulleys Replacement: 2.2L I4 5SFE Engine

[@charlesedmundadams]

This video was a lifesaver for me, especially with your tip to turn the camshaft pulley a tooth a head when applying the new timing belt to give enough slack to get it on. I'm in my early 20s learning to home mechanic work myself, and your videos have been really big to help me in that, thank you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped and thanks for sharing!

[@ricky-sanchez]

I learned alot of what I know from working on old Camrys, corollas and Buicks. And a Jaguar xj8.😁

[@billythomas4527]

@@hardlymovingpro QUESTION. Is it normal the oil pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley aren't 100% aligned ?

[@DrewRiggin]

Amazing video, this just walked me through the whole process. Camera angles were as good as it gets, instructions were clear and concise. I wish every how to video was made this well. Thank you for making and sharing this!!!!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@electricspirit]

Thanks for making such a detailed video for a novice mechanic. It really helps with my dyslexia and those mouse pointers are needed

[@James-id5xq]

I find your way of tensioning the timing belt to be the most effective. In many other videos they rotate the crank 1 7/8 turn then tighten the tensioner bolt. Tried that and was a bit to loose for me to feel comfortable. You can also use a pry bar to get the tensioner a little tighter then just the spring does alone. I would also recommend starting the engine without the plastic covers like you did and rev it a few times to make sure you your belt is not flopping around. This method worked for me, thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks. I've found the engine start method results in the optimum tension on the belt. Had to revisit and retension using the rotate the crank method. Also belt slack can lead to premature belt breakage.

[@chrisk5142]

Appreciate the video man! I thought my leak was from the cam seal. After putting everything back on. Turns out it was the oil pump seal!! ROUND # 2!!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good catch and glad you found this video helpful! It could be a combination of the oil pump cover gasket and the pump shaft seal. Recommend you replace both. The cover gasket can also be replaced with RTV in lieu of a rubber replacement gasket. FYI - Check out my other videos on the Camry. To support our channel and receive notifications of new videos, please subscribe!

[@tcwaterdrill]

I also learned the hard way, it pays if you are changing the water pump, timing belt, cam seal, crankshaft seal, tension pulley and pulley every 70,000 miles, go ahead and spend the extra $10 and buy the oil pump seal and gasket. You are already there and it takes about 30 more minutes to replace them also. My oil pump gasket started leaking at about 230,000 miles, right after doing the water pump and timing belt thing the third time. Lost a quart of oil going to work (5 miles), saw oil under car before going home, added a quart of oil, went home lost one quart of oil going home. That was on a Thursday, added one quart to make it to work on Friday, added one quart to stop by AutoZone to buy oil pump seal, gasket and make it home from work. Spent most of Sat. geting to and replacing the oil pump seal and gasket.

[@utscav]

Best video so far!!! just did mine and the running the car before putting the plastic covers was a great idea. belt loosened, turned the cam pulley counterclockwise, loosened the tensioner re-tightened, and got rid of the slack. thanks my friend!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Happy it worked out for you and thanks for your comment!

[@craigkennedy5328]

Thanks HMP. Just changed the Timing belt, seals and oil pump gasket plus AC/Alternator and PS belts on my 98 Camry following your procedure. Ran engine and tightened belt. Installed bracket then crank pulley. Really happy with the result. Water pump and Thermostat will be done next time. Thanks again for your time creating this excellent and helpful video. Regards.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and thanks for sharing!

[@lanazaakat9466]

Great presentation with steady camera and step-by-step explanation. I was able to do the entire job on my 1997 Camry. Runs like a champ. Please show "How to replace the Fuel Injectors" for the same car !!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and good idea! Easiest way to get to the injectors is to first remove the valve cover. Afterwards, the injectors are in your face and the fuel rail is held on by only two 10mm bolts. But you're right ... I should make a video on it!

[@ricvanwinkle1665]

I have a 91 celica gT with same engine so now I know what needs to be done cause their basically the same car. Thanks buddy great video

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post!

[@barotraumabruce4245]

This vid was done a few years back, I know, but it’s really good stuff! The funny thing is I watched it twice before I realized the video engine is a 5SFE and I have the 3SFE. I’m old, it’s okay. I learned a lot!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not much difference between the 5SFE and the 3SFE. Believe timing components are identical.

[@barotraumabruce4245]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for that! I did a bit of research and came to that conclusion. Also, thanks for the list of tools I just ordered from Amzn.

[@notthenorm42]

This video was IMMENSELY helpful. I've got a cold-engine whine coming from under the timing cover that I have to deal with and the timing belt is due anyway so I asked my mechanic to draw up an estimate to do all this stuff...aaaaand pretty much had a heart attack. I work on my own car all the time and have a decent set of tools, but this was a bit more than I usually would take on. After watching your video, I know I can totally do this. I've already started ordering some of the specialty tools I'll need. Checking your other vids, too. Thanks, brother.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you! Highly recommend you get yourself name brand idler and tensioner pulleys for long term life (i.e. GMB or Koyo). Same applies for the water pump (Aisin or GMB). Good luck!

[@notthenorm42]

@@hardlymovingpro Will do. Thanks!

[@oby-1607]

Great to see somebody using the same tools I used to do this same job. In my case someone who did the previous belt had loctited on the crankshaft belt pulley and the timing belt pulley. I wanted to change the crank seal and had to drill and tap two holes in the timing belt pulley in order to remove it. I guess some pulleys have these holes, but mine did not. Heat from a propane torch had to be used to get it to start moving. Without it I broke off the head of the puller and therefore the need for the heat.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I feel your pain but you did manage to get the pulley off!

[@robertvanderbaan3722]

Excellent explanation on the bearing noise. My belt broke and now I know why.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@sweathe3819]

As always you have an excellent video. You show things other channels don't, and what you show makes a lot of sense. Thanks! I have five Toyotas (1998,2001,2001,2004,2017) and I always turn to you for your advise.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I appreciate that! I assume you have cars with the 2.2 5SFE, 2.4 2AZ-FE and the 2.5 2AR-FE?

[@dnickens20115]

Thanks bro.. I know this video is a few years old but just wanted to say thanks.. this video helped out very much step by step on my 99 camry 👍😁

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped you out!

[@ShelbyCorGT500]

Awesome!!!! The best video step by step I’ve seen in a long time. Thanks man !!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it and thanks for your comment and support!

[@juancolato4472]

@@hardlymovingpro l LJ

[@CharlesMartin-t6s]

Thanks for the heads up. I have this very job to do Tomorrow you’re processes is flawless You help me so much thank you and God bless

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for the feedback and good luck with the repair!

[@purpledoge4466]

Probs to you for working at night!,thats one of the best timing belt jobs and engine too

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@danielminerds713]

Your a bloody legend mate. Working on my own engine at the moment and your a great help 🙏

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad I could help!

[@MegaCartman100]

Wow thank you! You made this seem a whole lot easier than what I was thinking lol, doing oil pump and diagnosing an oil leak I have from that area thanks!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it worked out for you and to be of help.

[@rickrick9783]

@@hardlymovingpro When replacing the oil pump seals and putting the pump back in , do you need to prime the oil pump by packing grease or Vasoline in the rotor cavity?

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@rickrick9783 Nope ... not at all. When replacing the O ring rubber seal, make sure matting surfaces is clean of any oil residue. Brake cleaner solvent works well. Coat the o ring groove with some RTV then mount the o ring. This will ensure a leak free seal that will last longer than the original seal that dry rotted. Wiggle and twist the oil pump shaft onto the block and eventually the pump will snap in place.

[@percineemmanuel9280]

Wow

[@orthopraxis235]

Thanks for the video . A few things you did were really cool 1. running the car from the battery to visually inspect the timing belt in action...hadn't seen that. 2. I am going to check the seals on cam, crank, and oil pump will probably replace them 3. Why did you put insulation on the exhaust ? 4. Thanks again, this 1998 5sfe I have has 335,000 miles on it. Installed a bypass oil filter on it at 150,000 miles. Very happy with this car and its performance over time. Thanks for the video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and critique! 335k miles ... impressive! You surpassed my 99 Camry's 270k miles! Did you used the Amsoil bypass filter? The exhaust wrap insulation is a old trick going back almost 30 years ago by racers trying to get extra exhaust flow efficiency out of their engines at higher rpm's. I learned about it from a book titled "Power Secrets" by Smokey Yunick. To quote "as soon as the combusted gasses leave the chamber, they start to cool down. As they cool, they loose velocity, and the scavenging effect is reduced. If the velocity of the gasses inside the pipes is kept as high as possible, the net effect will be a greater velocity, greater pressure drop in the system and higher efficiency. " So based on some other research, I found that the 1st 4 inches of pipe from the exhaust manifold is where the exhaust heat is reduced the most and looses velocity. With exhaust wrapping, more of the heat is retained in the gases and results in better exhaust scavenging. At higher engine rpm's, the engine begins to work harder to push the gases out the manifold. With rapping, the effort is reduced. When rapping, do not over rap more than 1/4". Too much heat is retained and the exhaust header's steel will get brittle and brake down.

[@orthopraxis235]

@@hardlymovingpro Yes wowo thanks for the reply. I will map out the exhaust insulation and thank you so much for all the detail. I assumed it kept the exhaust gasses hotter and that would be a plus but you really nailed the explanation. On the bypass filter, I purchased a Franz kit. Did the oil lines myself with help from a hydraulic shop (the kind that sell and make hoses for cranes and bobcats, bulldozers etc), dealing with those hose barbs and new hoses can be a b***h. I mounted the Franz filter under the battery holder and ran the bleed oil to the bypass filter via a sandwich adapter under the full flow filter, then did the return into an oil fill cap I drilled with a swivel fitting, the clean oil goes right to where you fill oil at the top of the valve cover. After installing, I did 3 samples of oil tested by Blackstone labs. The oil was analytically clean, with the correct base number (PH) , by just changing the bypass filter, for 5 10 and 25 thousand miles, all on the same original oil with one filter change each time and about .75 qt added. So in 25 thousand miles, by adding just 2.25 replacement quarts of oil, the oil was analytically clean and still functional with adequat additives. This data completely sold me on the concept of bypass oil filtration. So the filter worked as I read before I purchased. I think this Camry is pretty bulletproof anyway probably though and could reach similar mileage w/o a bypass. But my first goal with the camry is 500K miles. I added a similar filter to my 2001 audi a6 quattro and mounted the bypass filter on the front bumper right in front of the radiator. Audi is at 194553 miles and the Camry is 335,XXX + miles. Not compression tested but Camry is 30+mpg at freeway speeds here in CA, so I imagine the engine is still pretty strong. I did the timing belt, cam seals, half moon seals, water pump etc on the audi last year. This camry job will be my second time doing a timing belt water pump. Definitely going to watch it run via the engine w/o the alternator as you did. When I did the audi, i put it all back together and crossed my fingers...well. it worked.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@orthopraxis235 I see that you're focused on keeping the engine running virtually wear free but pay attention to the transmission (assuming it's a automatic). Make sure that the fluid is bright red and watch out for leaks coming out of the output shaft seals which the inner cv axle slides into. CV boots also split so keep them coated with any type of rubber protectant to prevent dry root.

[@orthopraxis235]

@@hardlymovingpro Believe it or not, Franz has a transmisison filter application as well, I just never did it. So every month, yes, I remove the exit line from the transmission cooler (the one the exits below the rdaiator), attach it to a tube into a gallon water bottle, turn the engine on, and run new AT fluid into the spout. I do this until it is red. This is a lot simpler than changing the fluid in the pan, which I do far less often. I know its not all the fluid, but whatever is in the torque converter and cooler will be changed out, at least I think thats whats happening. its like 10 bucks a month and 20 minutes of time. The tranny isn't perfect on this car but it still does the job. While i was into your timing belt job on my Camry, I noticed I wanted to order the cam seal, the crank seal, oil pump seal and o ring, and i have a trip coming up. So I brought the Audi online, had to replace the drivers front axle, do did that and put the camry offline until i return. Then I can order the kit with all the seals and water pump timing belt and take my time with it. I also want to install an inline filter on the heater hose and see what I get with the coolant running through that. ive laterly been running the camry a ton of miles without much tlc but plug wires, bypass filter changes and tire rotations. I am not surprised that she needs seals, gaskets and a new water pump.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@orthopraxis235 If you want to do a complete ATF flush/fluid exchange, here's a video I made where you can with 8 quarts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoemh2armMd2fbs kzbin.info/www/bejne/amHUpaNnrL1ogKc

[@johnhalchishick7094]

Nice work surprised you didn't do the oil pump o ring and seal. I think that's my problem. I have to remove most of this stuff to do it. You show doing that very well.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks. Did another video for the oil pump.

[@peteJoseph-x3h]

Paint marks are for shade tree mechanics, Toyota has given you perfectly accurate timing marks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

True.

[@oscarcrespo9365]

I like videos with some issues that happens in the process of removing, installing or any other inconvenience so I can realize and learn from my own mistakes. thank you sr for sharing this tutorial.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... my pleasure.

[@stonedmonster]

Amazing video still to this day better than 90% of the others out there well I guess 100% of the others out there cuz I haven't found anything better on this thanks man this is better than anything else. So helpful I don't pick up thing from reading a manual 🤣

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Appreciate your critique and support!

[@elgatogordo9523]

Great video as always 👍 These Camry’s are a Beast! My 97 is my daily commuter 132 miles roundtrip. The guys at work keep telling me I need a new ride 🤣 I tell them, please do not say those words around her. She doesn’t know that I bought a new Camry recently 🤫

[@hardlymovingpro]

I own a 99 I4 5 speed manual. Got 280k miles. Picked up a 06 Hyundai Sonata I4 with a blown engine for a couple of hundred $$$. I did a engine swap out of a Kia Optima from the salvage yard that uses the same engine. Must admit ... That's a smooth running car ... Better than my Camry.

[@elgatogordo9523]

@@hardlymovingpro Keep us posted on its reliability. Back in 2006, we bought a brand new Elantra 5 speed manual. Now my former wife still driving it to this day. My kids tell me she’s going to drive the Elantra until the wheels fall off 🤣

[@hardlymovingpro]

The Sonata and Elantra have different sized and type engines and transmissions ... 2.4L vs 2.0L ... timing chain vs timing belt ... aluminum block vs cast iron. The Sonata competes with the Camry and Accord; the Elantra with the Corolla and Civic.

[@rolandolaguardia4519]

Thanks you made my job on my father and laws Toyota easy, great video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Hey ... glad it worked out for you!

[@ericlaroze5549]

This is a great vid. Can you imagine never having to deal with this with an EV?

[@hardlymovingpro]

True but any part that rotates in a EV will eventually wear out.

[@ericlaroze5549]

Eventually, everything does. It gets annoying replacing gaskets and seals for cooling and lubrication purposes. The parts can be cheap, but the labor is intense depending on the situation. Imagine, no more timing belts, leaky oil gaskets, water pumps, spark plugs, wires or even transmissions. I need to replace the oil pump seal on this motor. It's an $8 gasket causing a major oil leak. And it's a bitch to replace.

[@talalabed2045]

Thank you very much you’re very smart this video is so useful appreciate your job

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it and hope you'll find it useful!

[@chevytech7306]

Nice video! I'm a chevy technician not used to these yotas but seems easy to me thanks for the info.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I worked at a Cadillac dealership and any trade in Asian imports that needed work they dumped on me.

[@sidhumoosewala60]

Awesome. Main point showing in zooming. Good job

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it! Thanks!

[@atxgeckos2430]

Thank you brother. I seen other videos but this one is the best👏 Because of this video and how detail and clear everything is I will be doing my water pump kit on my own this weekend..Thanks again

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're welcome! Thanks for your comment and good luck with the job!

[@wmwil2564]

The pully with the spring is a tensioner and to adjust the timing belt those cars usually have a pointer and also have a a access hole in the cover for adjusting the timing belt

[@hardlymovingpro]

Maybe but I prefer to see the belt moving with the cover off to determine the right amount of tension. I found the belt being a little loose makes a difference with respect to engine lag.

[@bernardocisneros4402]

@@hardlymovingpro I've done many and I completely agree. I don't think @wmwil2564 is talking about Toyota's 2.2 liter 5S-FE.

[@sidhumoosewala60]

Good tools. Good explain. Good showing in main point

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@darylturcott]

Nicely done. I would tell people to go ahead and take the alternator and power steering reservoir off. easier to reach the bolts, which are still tricky.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Wouldn't hurt. Just a couple of extra steps. Recommend you first drain the PS fluid by detaching the hose bracketed to the sub frame below the crank pulley.

[@3gcraftsman]

Great video. Will this procedure be the same for the 2.0 Camry 3sfe? The part number for the belt kit appears to be the same. Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes.

[@3gcraftsman]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks!

[@3gcraftsman]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the response

[@chuckjeffcoat483]

Great step by step instructions

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your critique and support!

[@fixitfelix8616]

I'm having the same problem here and that's huge for me right now to change.

[@garynew9637]

Best vid I've seen on the t/belt. Well done!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and support!

[@lanazaakat9466]

Based on your great presentation, I was able to do the timing belt job on my 4 cyl. with 185000 miles - 97 Camry in 2019. The RPM is 2000 when engine is cold. It them relaxes to 750 RPM in 4 minutes, before I put it in gear. Is the high RPM normal after doing this job ? I think I read in your comment somewhere that when the timing marks are perfectly aligned, the RPM is high and this is expected. Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

High rpm's is normal during cold engine start up. 2000 rpm's, however, does seem a little high.

[@lanazaakat9466]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for your prompt response. I wonder if your expertise offers a solution to the high rpm. Except for that high rpm, the car runs like a champ, super quiet and smooth.

[@davidmillerd7631]

Thanks , explained and demonstrated nicely : )

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@MarioPerez-id3py]

Thank you. Your video is very helpful.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@felipee3227]

I wish you were my mechanic 🧑‍🔧👍👀 Great video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@Ben-vy4py]

Questions: which you can answer - at 12:28 m, what exactly is your "seal installation tool"? At 14:50, are you replacing the seal for the whole oil pump as well or just the section with o-ring?

[@hardlymovingpro]

At the 12:28 mark, I'm using the KTC brand seal installation tool. If you go to the "show more" section of this video, I provide a Amazon link to view or purchase the tool. I made a separate video for replacing the oil pump cover and shaft seal. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/laXWcqevhKyjl7M I also did another video on tools used for seal replacement: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYa2eo2pZ8dnec0 And here's a video showing how I used a seal installation kit to install new seals in a Mitsubishi 3000GT: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIXTkKeMjbiVp7c

[@robbflynn4325]

Got a 97 Celica with the 5sfe. Water pump weeping. Has 230, 000 miles. This is a job I am going to tackle myself so watching as many videos on it as possible to find out as many tricks and tips as possible to make the job easier. I intend to change the TB, auxiliary belts and of course the water pump. Was wondering if it was worth replacing the oil pump gaskets also or anything else you can think of? Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Here's a video I made replacing the oil pump cover O ring gasket. These O rings dry rot and allow oil to leak out.

[@tonyfilip2645]

Great video! Thank you for posting. It helped a lot with my efforts to replace timing belt and water pump. Just wish I had an air impact wrench for that crankshaft bolt.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post, comments and support! You can always use an inexpensive ac electric 1/2" impact driver attached to a high mass impact socket. Worked for me when my 18v electric battery impact driver gave out.

[@darkredrage]

Great video, helped greatly. ThankYOU!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

My pleasure and thanks for your post!

[@Gcatt1]

1st of all this is an excellent timing belt video. I couldn't have asked for a better one, but I think this job will be left to a mechanic. 2nd is not timing belt related so I understand if you don't waste your time but also really hope you do. I watched this about 10 times to get the answer for myself but its going to take more knowledge than that. I'm trying to diagnose a valve cover leak vs a camshaft seal leak . The visible oil is all over the back of the engine. (I did the valve cover already and its still leaking is the reason I'm looking into camshaft seal.) If I wanted to rule out cam shaft seal leak could I do that by removing the dogbone mount and the upper timing bolt cover and nothing else? Wouldn't the oil be on the cam pulley and the black plate that backs it? Please and thank you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

I think you leak is coming from the half circle rubber plugs on both ends of the cylinder head. Remove and clean the plugs then reseal with RTV.

[@bernardocisneros4402]

When replacing the valve cover gasket, did you remove old RTV and put ultra black silicone RTV in the 8 places the book calls out for? If you did, then check if the oil is coming from camshaft seal by removing the parts you pointed out above. If it's coming from the camshaft seal, you will see it. There's also a black 2 inch round plastic plug on the driver's side of valve cover that also leaks, so check that too. It's behind the mount for ignition coils.

[@HarrySach]

Very good job, thank you for your service

[@hardlymovingpro]

Our pleasure!

[@gunggunglu2424]

好技术，做得非常好。有车托你修理，放心!

[@hardlymovingpro]

感谢您的评论和支持！

[@rohans6249]

Great video!... Question, did you add any gasket sealant grease on water pump gasket before installing the pump?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not necessary. The steel gasket with a rubber seal provides a leak free seal.

[@williamlopez8119]

I see you a Milwaukee guy too great taste in the fuel

[@hardlymovingpro]

Couldn't imagine working without them now!

[@Innomarry]

Dear I have a ques, after adjusting cam shaft , buy crankshaft nut, so at which pat u align the crankshaft ?

[@chevalsauer]

Will Silicon spray suffice for lubricating the new shaft seals??? or does it need to be the grease version??? Great video by the way - Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

The spray should suffice.

[@adalex87]

Is it possible to remove without the power tool? Or will the pulley just spin using a normal socket wrench? Or, in my case would I leave the belts in place first to keep the tension on the pulley so it doesn't spin when I'm trying to remove it?

[@hardlymovingpro]

The pulley will spin. You can use a chain strap wrench to hold it from moving.

[@jimmyjimjimmyjimjimjimjim4437]

Are you sure you should use the wire brush to clean off the old waterpump gasket? I'd be afraid of gouging the surface too much.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Absolutely. We techs at the shop do it all the time. Do not, however, use sand paper. That is too abrasive and WILL result in a poor seal. If you want, you can break in the brush by wire brushing against concrete. This will get the wires oriented in the direction of the rotation.

[@hardlymovingpro]

And ... you do mean the water pump mount ... not the gasket?

[@jimmyjimjimmyjimjimjimjim4437]

@@hardlymovingpro Yes, I meant cleaning the old gasket off the mount. I ruined an intake manifold using a grinder with plastic abrasive pads. But that was aluminum. So, I always cringe when I see someone using a wire wheel like that. Good tip about the cement! Also, your video was great - one of the best so far.

[@adfggffffffddffd]

@10:15 DO NOT use a steal brush to clean that mating surface. You can scratch that machine fit and cause a small oil leak that would be essentially impossible to stop. At the very least use a brass brush but I wouldn't even recommend using that. Just use a nylon brush or just clean it off yourself with brake cleaner and a rag.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Incorrect. There's nothing wrong with using a medium abrasion rotary wire brush on an angle. Removes both paper element and aluminum oxidation residue. My peer mechanics and I do it all the the time as standard-operating-procedure (SOP). Provides a complete leak free seal. The big no-no is using sand paper.

[@pa1264]

Thank you so much for your help, very much appreciated.

[@hardlymovingpro]

My pleasure and good luck with the job!

[@CJ-dx5mc]

Nice man. I think its funny, I look at my repair manual, and it wants me to open the top of the engine, drop the oil pan, remove all coolant, and the AC, just do to do this, yet all I want to do is the Timing belt and the water pump, just like you. Why would i need to remove the oil pan (which means draining the engine) and the coolant?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Which repair manual?

[@SuperHtownswag]

@@hardlymovingpro probably haynes, and maybe 50% of youtubers who have also replaced timing belts on this exact same engine. I agree seems wayy too much.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@SuperHtownswag Insane. No reason to drop the oil pan to perform a TB and WP service.

[@craigkennedy5328]

Hi HMP. It was interesting to see that while the belt looked reasonably tight after attaching the spring and tightening the tensioner, after running the engine it became quite loose. It looks like you should run the car to get all slack from the belt. Some cars though require the rocket cover to be removed and so running the car may not be possible unless you put the car together beforehand. What methods are there in addition to running the car that effectively tightens the belt so you don’t have to retighten later. Thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Conventional instructions is to rotate the crankshaft 720 degrees and then re-tension. My preference is to start the engine. On Honda's older I4, I loosely place the value cover back on before I start the car so that oil won't go spraying all over the place.

[@craigkennedy5328]

Thank you for your reply. I agree absolutely. I recently replaced a belt in a Mazda 323 “Miata” FWD using conventional manual method. Relied on spring to make the required tension, rotated by hand several times to check and the belt remained visually tight. Closed everything up and the car went well for about 3000km before the belt failed and let me stranded. I predict that the belt became loose quickly and survived for a while before it finally failed. As you’ve shown, you cannot rely on the spring to provide the correct tension and you must run the engine to bed the belt in to eliminate any hidden areas of slack. The unfortunate experience knocked my confidence a bit (I’m an amateur trying to learn) but it was an important lesson well learned and it’s so very crucial to follow your procedure for adequate tensioning. Unfortunately the Mazda was no longer needed by family so it was scrapped. So bit sad to see it go. Will try again on the other family cars including my 98 Camry at a later date. Thank you again for your kind effort posting such interesting and helpful videos. A truly excellent and enjoyable channel. Regards Craig.

[@lapieces]

good old 11:00 timing mark... messed me up the first time, but I realized that the engine is slanted while in the car.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Live and learn.

[@lapieces]

@@hardlymovingpro yep.

[@Ryan_Carder]

Glad to see you still replying to comments only a month old! I plan on buying a 95 wagon that has 148k miles. For the past 10 years, it's only had 1k miles put on it. I have very little experience working on cars, but plan to use this as a learning opportunity. Would you recommend I replace the oil pump and/or oil pump seals while I'm down there? Also, what would the health of the transmission fluid be like after sitting for ten years? CarFax shows it was changed 1k miles ago... In 2010.... Can't really find any good info on the lifespan in terms of years on trans fluid. I won't be able to thank you enough for your help, so I'll be sure to drop a subscribe and share your channel.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post. The belt replacement service interval is based off of either mileage or age. Never paid much attention to age until I replaced a "jumped" belt on a Suzuki. Belt was over 10 years old with less than 30,000 miles (6 year or 60,000 service interval). Belt had a lot of cracks and ready to snap. Wouldn't replace the oil pump but would replace the seals. Trans fluid change should be done based on the color of the fluid. If very dark, change it. Good luck with the repair!

[@Ryan_Carder]

@@hardlymovingpro The gentleman has it listed for 2k. I'm hoping to get it for not much over 1k, but I don't want to lowball him too hard. First time negotiating a car. No AC, spotty service records, hardly used in ten years, and he's had it posted for about 6 months. My best bet is he isn't too stubborn about it and wants to get rid of it. I'll keep you updated if you wish. If not, I'll just quietly observe and learn from your vids :p

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@Ryan_Carder A car with a non functioning ac is basically worthless. If the evaporator core is leaking, fixing it would require 8 - 10 hours of labor. I've seen minimum ac repair quotes starting at $500 ... average ac repairs over $1000. 25 year old car? Unless the exterior and interior were mint and the car was garaged, I wouldn't pay over $400.

[@Ryan_Carder]

@@hardlymovingpro very fair point and I've considered this myself and hope to use it as leverage. The unfortunate thing is, I really want this car and that takes away all of my negotiating power. The exterior is in good shape, no paint fading or chips, interior looks good as well. Just called a place, $450 for the evaporator and I assume the evaporator is worst case scenario in terms of cost.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@Ryan_Carder Your call. $1,000 is way too much. Then there's the ac compressor, condenser, accumulator, etc

[@johnhalchishick7094]

I need the oil pump seal kit , now I'm wondering if I should do all these deals while I have it all apart.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Would make the job complete.

[@redmimic5532]

Very nice job!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for the visit!

[@SuperHtownswag]

After installing the timing belt and removing slack. Im noticing that the crankshaft pulley timing mark is aligned right. But the camshaft mark IS NOT IN ALIGNMENT. ITS CONSISTENLY FORWARD BY 2 inches or so...again this is when the harmonic balancer is at the zero mark. Is this okay?

[@hardlymovingpro]

When you're saying 2 inches, are your referring to the protruding tab on the camshaft pulley or the hole in the camshaft pulley that suppose to align with the vertical notch?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Refer to the 7:11 time mark of the video.

[@SuperHtownswag]

@@hardlymovingpro Im referring to the 'camshaft gear'...the camshaft gear hole is past the camshaft vertical notch/camshaft seal area. ie. on every 2nd complete 360 degree turn of the crankshaft gear...the camshaft hole is at 1 o' clock versus the camshaft vertical mark which is 12 0'clock. I want to know can the car still run okay despite this?

[@SuperHtownswag]

I can tell that the camshaft marks are off because I made marks with white out before installing the belt. I have not tried to start the engine yet either.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@SuperHtownswag It's a non interference engine meaning there won't be any potential valve damage if out of alignment. Also, if not aligned, you'll get a DTC code indicating camshaft position error.

[@elgatogordo9523]

Recently replaced crankshaft seal and oil pump seals on my 97 Camry. Car will only run 30 seconds and quit running. Did I install the timing belt incorrect or maybe the tensioner came loose? Unable to verify timing, timing covers and accessory belts are on. I’ll remove the timing covers this weekend to get a better look at my timing marks. Thanks for your video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Is your check engine light on? If so, do you have a camshaft position sensor error? To get back to proper alignment, set the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) notch to the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover. Then check the position of the camshaft sprocket TDC alignment hole. If the alignment hole is 180 degrees off, rotate the engine 360 degrees. Recheck the alignment hole. If the hole does not align with the alignment notch above the camshaft seal, then you're out of alignment.

[@elgatogordo9523]

Hardly Moving Productions Thanks for your speedy reply. So far no check engine lights. Will check all wiring sensors and timing marks this weekend. Keep you posted on my findings...

[@elgatogordo9523]

@@hardlymovingpro Update: Timing marks are spot on. Did noticed the crankshaft timing gear has a broken/missing teeth. I'm sure this is issue I'm having. Crank sensor not picking up all timing gear teeth and causing the engine to shutdown after 30 seconds.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes ... that'll do you in. Recommend you pick up a replacement gear at the salvage yard.

[@elgatogordo9523]

@@hardlymovingpro Absolutely...I'll get one after we return from vacation. I'll let you know with the final results. Thanks...

[@munirladha6787]

You have nice tools, good video

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@jordanadams6984]

Hi. Any way you could share links to the tools you used to remove the camshaft pulley and the oil seal removal and installation tool?

[@hardlymovingpro]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYa2eo2pZ8dnec0

[@miguipredator]

TY for this nice video and sorry for my bad english on advance. I have this exact same engine on my toyota celica 2.2gts, and just broke my timing belt past week while my car was not moving, it just stopped working while i was stopped. Ive been told that repair would be around 2000€ and i was just wondering if u think it would be worth tryin gto repair it or just buying another engine or even another car. Thank you very much!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Definitely fix it yourself! No need to get another engine (and that's a lot of work!). Most belt breakage, from what I've seen, is due to worn out idler, guide and water pump bearings. This causes bearing wobble which over stresses the belt. So replace the belt with the bearings and water pump.

[@miguipredator]

@@hardlymovingpro TYVM my friend, thats what i needed to hear xD im in love with my car and would completely hate to get rid of it, ill see your videos and ill try my best to get it fixed! TY!

[@toughhaulingjunkremoval3303]

Is the amazon link for the evergreen kit with aisin water pump and misubishi belt in the description still good? Amazon says it wont fit but the title and description says it does. No reviews unfortunately

[@hardlymovingpro]

As long as you're engine is the 2.2L 3SFE or 5SFE it'll work. These engines were used in the 90's Camry, RAV4 and some Celica's.

[@alfonsoramirez6415]

You!, Sir are Amazing!!!!! Thank you Soooo much for this Video

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@luimobilefixes5279]

Good video 📹👍very detailed 👌 what brand timing belt did you use? for this job, or what brand do you recommend? I bought a car with 226,000 mi. All be changing the seals the cam is leaking. Might as well do the timing job too. And see how long the car 🚗can last.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Japanese belts: Mitsuboshi or Bando. American: Dayco or Gates. European: Continental Bearings & water pump: Aisin or GMB

[@luimobilefixes5279]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you, I understand better now.

[@pa1264]

Where can I buy that tool with the chain you use to hold cam sprocket when tightening bolt.

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's called a "Chain Strap Wrench". You should be able to buy one from any hardware store. They come in different length handles. Use your search engine with the search words "Chain strap wrench for sale" and you will get a lot of hits. There are good deals on Ebay and Amazon. I have a video on all the different types you can use. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nmLOfJ95oNKZipI

[@pedroluizsignore4582]

Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Won't damage. It's a non interference engine.

[@starwizardmanonthestarwiza2469]

You did a great job

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@motobator1895]

great vid, i just did this on my 5sfe only to find Im leaking coolant from behind the oil pump 😬

[@hardlymovingpro]

Check the gasket for the water pump.

[@motobator1895]

@@hardlymovingpro yes was the Oring behind the water pump.

[@lanazaakat9466]

Great video ! It would be more helpful if you spoke the torque on each part as you wrapped up, and also displayed torque on the screen. I saw this video at least 10 times and took notes of the sequences of your actions. I feel confident to do this job during winter break myself. I am no mechanic. I have little knowledge. I hear that same noise behind TB cover in the morning and then it dies down. All I need is correct tools and time !! Will not do a speedy job. Thanks a lot !!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Hey ... thanks for your post. Noise in the morning and then dies down are signs of worn timing belt tensioner or guide pulleys. You're on borrowed time before the belt brakes. If you need the torque specs, here's the link to a article I wrote a few years back with a diagram containing torque specs: axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-Camry-5SFE-Engine-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-Seal-Replacement

[@lanazaakat9466]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks a lot for your concern and prompt response. People like yourself are heroes for us.

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem ... thanks for your response and good luck with the job!

[@FreeRangeNomad]

GREAT VIDEO !! Subbed!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@mariannorton4161]

really good video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@billythomas4527]

When it comes to the camshaft seal does the tool you used is part of a kit ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope. The tool needs to be purchased separately.

[@billythomas4527]

Ugh I bought the tool and broke 2 seals trying to install the friggen thing in

[@billdougan4022]

I bought a JDM engine and put the timing belt and water pump on and the cover back on before installing it in the car. Do I need to remove the cover, now that the engine is in the car to verify the tension? Thanks, great video

[@hardlymovingpro]

No ... your fine.

[@billdougan4022]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks, I didn't really want to undo it. Excellent video. 🔧

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@billdougan4022 No problem.

[@patrickkamski8108]

Just curious what's the average cost at the mechanic to replace those things in the video plus oil pump seal? Thank you!

[@Hakor0]

Google it you can buy the new kit for timing belt and water pump for $150 but I reckon about $300_$400

[@CraigBMM]

wow what a good video .. nice work my friend .. i have this engine

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and glad you like it!

[@nefnm]

Your video and I are working on my 98 Celica this weekend. Feel pretty good about it and I think I've got everything I need including oil pump seals. While I was going through your tool list checking off what I have I noticed you listed a 22mm high mass socket instead of the 19mm high mass sockets for the HB pully bolt. Typo?

[@hardlymovingpro]

19 mm for Honda's ... 22 mm for Toyota's.

[@nefnm]

@@hardlymovingpro As it turned out, 19mm for 98 Celica GT. Thank you for your video and sharing your knowledge!!

[@bernhoog9114]

Very informative video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@poman911]

That seal remover for the camshaft seal will still scratch up the shaft surface. I could never get the seal removed that way. The way I do it for the camshaft is to take the pulley off, remove the two bolts for the camshaft cap and push that seal from the inside out. Insert new seal and reinstal.

[@hardlymovingpro]

The puller claw pulls on the outside lip of the seal. The seal's inner lip that rides on the cam doesn't get touched by the claw.

[@WV591]

Awesome video..major TU

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@CarlWF6J]

Great Video. Suggest you give torque info and more tool wrench size info. (or not). when you put the water ump back on did you use a new gasket? Saw you clean things up, but thought I just saw the part put on, no gasket. Sorry if I misse that. Again, great video, the best one on this I've seen. THANK YOU!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment in your post. Yes... The new water pump gasket was installed around the 10:30 mark. Torque specs can be obtained from a technical service manual specific to this car which I recommend to all DIY mechanics.

[@chrisbrown6804]

What type of attachment you used to clean the water pump mounting surface? I want something i can use with my impact driver.

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's a wire brush attached to a air powered right angle drill. Does quick work on removing paper element gasket residue as well as prep the surface for a new gasket. Warning: Do Not Use Sandpaper to prep the mounting surface.

[@orthopraxis235]

I know nobody asked but on the bypass filtration info....most significant engine wear occurs from particles less that 5 microns in size. The full flow filter, even the best one, because it has to maintain high oil pressure, really only filters at 95% efficiency down to about 15 or 20 microns. When you run bypass filtration, you bleed around 10% of the oil flow through a nearly infinitely more dense filter, and at a much slower flow rate. This allows nearly 99% efficiency down to nearly 1 micron. By removing these particles you get a many fold benefit: 1. Significantly reduced engine wear. 2. Greater efficiency in terms of heat exhange and mechanical efficiency as the oil is now, basically, clean. You aren't paying to move particulates in the oil around your engine at 2,000 to 4,000 rpms . The weight of the oil is only slightly higher with all the crap in it, but because it has to be moved at such high speeds, , this is a large energy cost. When you remove all the particulates, it takes far less energy to move that oil. 3. Always clean, warm oil will remove varnish and other gunk from the oil flow paths, keeping tolerances as new as possible minus any prior wear. 4. Analytically clean oil from mile 0 of oil change to the next filter change interval. Without bypass filtration, the oil just gets dirtier as you drive until you do a full change, the repeats the process of particulate contamination. 5. Oil changes are basically the bypass filter, and whatever oil was still in the filter at the change. 6. Oil analysis can confirm the proper installation and performance of a bypass filter, as well when to do a complete oil change. I do the full change on this camry about 2x per year, and put about 30k miles per year on this car. While the bypass filter element can absorb about 6 oz of water, any more than that and the oil will turn acidic, and no filter yet can change that. So analysis would tell you that, but I just use 6 to 12 month intervals.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Bypass filters are pretty much standard on diesel engines because of all the soot build up. Had an Amsoil bypass filter on my pickup truck around 20 years ago and it worked on the principals you had previously outlined ... which I agree with. But I came to realize that although the filter can help protect the engine from wear and tear in the long run, everything else that surrounds the engine wears out: alternators, starters, sensors, radiators, ac compressors, condensers, suspension parts, timing chains, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel pump, fuel injectors, valve stem seals, exhaust system components, transmission components, door lock, window regulators, bearings, etc...that unless you can do the repair yourself, for the average owner they'll trash the car. So if the engine runs okay with synthetic oil changes every 6k miles or so, why bother with the time and effort using a bypass filter for that extra level of engine wear protection? For the cost of an oil analysis, I can do another synthetic oil change. A failed transmission cost as much to replace as a worn out engine to replace. Also, I can get a reman 5SFE engine for around $1K and swap the engine out in a day.

[@orthopraxis235]

Its a personal choice. Ive run the numbers and have a car, at the end of the day, that is still running strong at 335,000 miles plus. It cost less than 22 cent per mile to drive including gas. (I purchased it used at 65,000 miles). So based on how I like to spend money it has worked very well for me. I believe, in addition to an amazingly excellent design and manufacturing process of the camry 5fse, that excellent filtration contributed greatly to the low cost of ownership of this vehicle.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@orthopraxis235 The 5SFE was and still is a great engine ... but you should check out the specs on Toyota's newer I4 engines. The horsepower gains along with the fuel economy is nothing less than amazing! Also their transmissions ... 8 speeds. A standard Camry rides like a Lexus 20 years ago. I drove a late model Camry recently as was blown away. Incredibly smooth, powerful and quiet! You can barely tell the transmission is shifting.

[@toanlam8603]

I have the 2gfre engine. Do I have to to take out the harmonic balancer to reach the oil seal? Thanks the vids!

[@hardlymovingpro]

If the seal behind the balancer is leaking.

[@toanlam8603]

@@hardlymovingpro it was definitely tricky putting the engine back on the mount. i had to to use 2 jacks and push one jack at a time to align the mount. thanks for the vid. looking back, i only switched 2 pulley and missed the tensioner pulley...not looking forward to doing this again. did you use two, separate long 2x4 and raised the engine by the oil pan, and transmission pan? my oil pan got dented, but that was my fault

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@toanlam8603congratulations on finishing the job by yourself! A 2x8 block of wood would distribute the weight more evenly

[@toanlam8603]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks! I had 2 others help me

[@HonrUk]

Very good video ❤❤😊

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for the visit!

[@chrisbrown6804]

I had the cam, crank and oil pump seal and gasket changed 60,000 miles ago when i did the timing belt on my 92 toyota camry 2.2l. No leaks so far, my question is should i change the seals with this timing belt change or wait till the next 60,000 mile timing belt change?

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you're changing your belt every 60k miles, then hold off till the next belt change. The cam seals is what wears the fastest. The oil pump seals are good almost to 200k miles. The crank seal don't leak that often.

[@chrisbrown6804]

@@hardlymovingpro thats what i was leading toward doing the seals every other belt change, because my 92 Camry says to change the belt every 60,000 miles.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@chrisbrown6804 You can safely go up to 100k now. The 60k was based off of old belt material technology. Starting somewhere in the late 90's, on the 5SFE engine, the service interval was bumped up to 90 or 100k. When belts snap, it's not because of the belt ... but rather one of the pulley bearings wearing out and wobbling causing undue stress on the belt. So if you use good bearings, like Koyo or GMB, you should have no problems getting to 100k. Also, only use Aisin water pumps. Have had water pumps fail in 1 week to 1 year. Don't have this problem with Aisin.

[@chrisbrown6804]

Hardly Moving Productions that makes a whole lot of sense, that’s probably what I will do, I will wait for at least 90 to 100,000 miles before I change it, that way I will change the seals again at that time, I really appreciate the info and knowledge.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@chrisbrown6804 Easiest way to know if a belt job is needed is when the bearings make noise on initial startup and quiet down after warm up. You've got a few months left when then happens.

[@desertheatkicksgee]

Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be clogged fuel injectors. Suggest you replace injectors with rebuilds or do a direct fuel injector cleaning service like this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pquXg5J_g5dmaK8

[@viktorvezdenetskyi7819]

great video as usually very informative thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@viktorvezdenetskyi7819]

@@hardlymovingpro however I've seen the other videos and they say the camshaft has to be lined up with other mark there are two marks one like a circle from the drill bit and the other one like on your video v-shaped which is little higher up do you know something about it?

[@viktorvezdenetskyi7819]

on my car it wasn't lined up at first place it did start up roughly and wasn't working properly as you drive so if I line up the crankshaft and then line up the camshaft itself without a belt would that work?thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

To know what's TDC for belt installation: 1. For the camshaft, line up the little hole in the cam sprocket with the vertical notch on the engine. It's hard to see without a mirror. 2. For the crankshaft, put back on the lower TB cover and pulley. Rotate the pulley until the pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark on the TB cover.

[@viktorvezdenetskyi7819]

@@hardlymovingpro put it all up together works way better then before however I've forgot to disconnect battery and alternator earth cable shortend up so blew the fuse other way all good thanks again

[@leonarddroneview6947]

Where do you get the installation tool for the seal I would like to have one?

[@hardlymovingpro]

A link is provided in this video's description. If you want to get to the tool from here: amzn.to/2F1Nlag

[@leonarddroneview6947]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks I just did the timing belt water pump on my Avalon with the OneMZFE used your other video for instruction it was great I ended up using a piece of PVC pipe and a small hammer for the seals

[@bernardocisneros4402]

@@leonarddroneview6947 That's what I used too. Worked great!

[@billythomas4527]

Ah dang it ! Finished installing everything, went for a rip in town today started the car and the oil started leaking real bad under

[@billythomas4527]

Weird. It looks like the Oil Pump Seal popped out.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be the camshaft oil seal. The seal lip can turn inside out if you push the seal in to hard. I prefer to spin them on until flush with the engine then use my press tool.

[@billythomas4527]

@hardlymovingpro aw thanks man. Turn out it was the oil pump pulley seal..... I only used an impact to screw the pulley bolt back on at first, but this time used a chain wrench to hold the pulley and torqued it down to like 20 ft pound.

[@billythomas4527]

@hardlymovingpro actually just reinstalled only the timing belt and it seems like the seal is once again popping out ?

[@billythomas4527]

Dang it just tried again and it popped after 5 minutes running it without the lower timing cover. I guess I'll try a new seal

[@تعلمبنفسكصيانةسيارتك]

Excellent explanation thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it and thanks for your support!

[@thegee-tahguy4877]

Need a quick answer... can the timing 0 mark on the crank pulley be used as a ref mark for crank/cam alignment?In other words, must you use the crank gear timing marks in order to align with cam timing marks?

[@hardlymovingpro]

You can use the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover and align with the notch on the harmonic balancer. Just make sure the cam sprocket is also in alignment; otherwise, give the engine another full rotation and the cam will be in alignment with the crankshaft.

[@thegee-tahguy4877]

Hardly Moving Productions okay thats great. They are working on my car now at the school. They agreed the timing was off by 1 tooth (10 degrees) Which is why my gas mileage was so bad. They used the pulley zero mark and the cam timing marks to get the timing right, which is why I wanted to know if that can be done using the pulley marks instead of the crank gear marks. The car is almost back together now, but nobody has started it yet. We’ll see

[@hardlymovingpro]

To ease installation on the belt, either the cam or crank should be moved towards each other (around 1/2 cog). After the belt is on, move the cam or crank back to TDC alignment marks and recheck the alignment. Start the engine ... shut off the engine ... recheck for excess belt slack. It's all covered in the video.

[@dbfcrell8300]

@@hardlymovingpro Well, it's hard to explain, but I wasn't in the position to tell them how to do it, but I had two teachers and 2 students working on it. I was only getting drabs of info as to what they were trying to do, but they ended up de-tensioning the tensioner and slipping the belt by one tooth atthe cam gear. It took 3 of them to do it. It worked! Prior to that, they were trying to to see if I was right- that the timing was off, but they only removed the top TB cover and were using the crank pulley marks as the crank reference, not the crank gear timing marks- that's why I asked you if that was okay to do. So it all turned out great. The car runs good now and hopefully the gas mileage is back up to 29mpgs. They didn't do the job the way you or I would have, but it got done and I thank you for your help and your video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@dbfcrell8300 Hey ... good for you! 2 instructors and 2 students? That's funny. As the saying goes "If you can't do the job, teach!" And the Toyota 5SFE is not some unique, weird, exotic European engine design. There's millions of cars out there using this engine and one of the easiest belts to replace (at least from my perspective). Hope they replaced the camshaft seal. It won't last another 100k miles ... and neither will the power steering pump housing seal.

[@ahmedmir4959]

Hi i have 2000 camry 5s engine. Same problem with my car when start it in the morning its making noise comming from timing belt cover i feel that belt is hitting to the cover but after engine warm its reduce the noise i changed timing belt with new koyo and NSK bearings japan. After changing all these it was ok but after 2 months the same noise comming from the timing belt cover. I am suggested to find a little bigger bearing in diameter to not to listen the noise. So what can i do? What will be the best sollution? Should i find a little bigger bearing that should be 60mm in diameter instead of original 57mm diameter? And which brand belt should i use for this? As before i used mitsuboshi & sun brand belt?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Had a similar problem about a year ago. Appeared to be belt stretch. I took the tb covers off, removed the excess slack and buttoned it back up. Been running fine since then. Belt slap all gone during warm up. Problem caused by not using OEM Mitsubishi belt?

[@ahmedmir4959]

@@hardlymovingpro thaks a lot bro i will check original Toyota TB to install. A bundle of thanks