Camshaft Crisis: Solution/Resolution

[@Mike-Olds-1]

Comp Cams makes complete garbage I am rebuilding my rebuilt 440 again . That’s how I know

[@gregcampbell3064]

This is coming from a Chevy guy, I like your presentation and truthful, to the point objectiveness. My high school auto students built 3 motors this spring. The small block with a Howard's setup failed. Comp Products told a friend of mine they are at about 40+% failure rate and wouldn't even sell him a flat tappet for his BBC. Other student ran an Elgin setup it lived. Only difference was we broke it in at 1800 RPM and used 30 weight non detergent. The other SBC is an Elgin setup is going on the start up stand shortly my only change here is to run it on the stock springs through the break in. This whole camshaft thing is really disappointing! Have a 400 SBC with an Isky cam and Crower direct lube lifters in it that will be broke in next. The JUNK they are making has taken all the fun out of building motors with my students, the next generation of hot rodders. Complete buzz-kill. Student from last year on a Comp set survived break and a summer of fun. Cam/lifters failed last month. Does big pharma own stock in lifter companies? Thanks you have a new subscriber.

[@Haffschlappe]

You can also use a Mirror or Window they are flat

[@shawnbins203]

Nice video series! I agree- there’s NO Good Reason these flat tappets should be failing. This has been going on for 20 years now. Everyone says you gotta use a roller cam. I say that’s BS. Not to mention- those are failing in their own ways as well! Comp Cams has been scamming people forever. They bought the most advertising back when we still had magazines. Every damn engine build had Comp Cams in it. I had a mild one go out. I did everything right. Good oil ect. No high spring pressure. They wouldn’t do a thing for me. Way back in the day- we never broke them in right- and they survived just fine. Now Comp has their new Diamond coated lifters… supposedly fixes all the problems?? Time will tell. Shouldn’t have to Diamond coat 100 year old technology to get it to work

[@mrfarts5176]

Lol, those guys are a bunch of B holes over there.

[@bbivens8263]

That "diamond" coating is just a nitride coating. It`ll wear off too. Later rather than sooner, but it`ll wear off.

[@Schlipperschlopper]

They cant make them to OEM 1970s quality because it would cost 300 Dollars per lifter....nobody would pay that much for "swiss made" tappets.

[@Haffschlappe]

Comp Chinese Steel crap

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

This is a great test for lifter machining. I am terrified to install the 274H I got from Comp and thinking of just dropping the $1200 it costs to upgrade to roller because of all the failures. Maybe I can perform the same check with my magnetic dial indicator and see where the lifters are at. Thanks.

[@kevinavillain4616]

It's not roller bearings in the rollers failing it's the motor oil😮😝🤣, We are so far past common sense and thinking for ourselves it brings tears to my eyes. Believe what they tell you on the commercial OR ELSE 😡 P. S. Make it a small (mRNA). BY THE WAY IT'S JUST A COINCIDENCE JUST ASK THEM.

[@anthonyrowland9072]

Isky and Howard's are safe too.

[@Vicus_of_Utrecht]

12:41 is sure as shit ain't the oils. mUh ZiNc bs

[@tomsmith4066]

No sixties engine was broken in with multi weight oil . Straight 30 or thicker it’s a fact

[@claytonstoolbox]

Thanks! Almost bought a comp cam.....

[@whaleoilbeefhooked3892]

Based upon your worldly understanding, I'll go out on a limb and say (sadly) that the world's shift toward EV's is responsible for the ICE oils, the metallurgy, the relevant skill expertise dumb down and we're being unknowingly frustrated to take it (as you say) because they want us to "TAKE IT". Frustration forces change!

[@doublebackagain4311]

15:00 mark = 🔥🔥🔥 Also appreciate your methodology 👍

[@mikedoty8149]

try driven br 30 or br 40

[@dillinpicklesworth5698]

The crown on the lifter needs to be the same as the taper the cam lobe, so if you're going to have the cam reground, do yourself a favor and send the lifters to be matched, and rockwell tested, no (magic) oil will fix mismatched machine work 😉😁💯 but I feel every bit of your frustration!!

[@louisesamchapman6428]

Dr David E Martin Phd...thevirus and vax patent and evidence trail...WIV #1...Dr Jacob Nordangard...who's running the show

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Thank you and I subscribe to Dr. Martin's site. His address dealing with the history of Covid at the EU parliament was exceptional......and yet, NO one saw it! I have resigned myself to this reality: 30 to 40 % of the people will not and never accept that they were duped and injected with a toxin. They cannot mentally/emotionally go there and therefore, they are doomed. I just have to get "tougher" in my outlook and "write" them off as per Darwin's theory. The interesting part for me is this; how will these people channel their rage when the truth becomes "common" knowledge? Do they "burn it all" down or resign to "whimper" in their corners? Looking at the their recent past behaviour, nothing gets them off their asses, NOT even Child Sexual abuse/pedophilia. I'm betting they "whimper" like beaten dogs. live.childrenshealthdefense.org/chd-tv/shows/good-morning-chd/ed-dowd-they-cant-run-from-this-data/

[@hectorortega9131]

Looks to me like you have other problems besides lifter failures.

[@oscaracme]

What's a "thow"?

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Ahhh......you're a metric student!! It's the "Imperial" measurement system of "inches" divided into thousands. A "thou" is 0.001 inches in length. Roughly half the width of a human hair.

[@bbivens8263]

I cannot believe you re-used that Comp Cam. That would have been the first thing into my scrap pile. That cam caused the wear pattern on the Johnson lifter.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Re watch the video and listen! I DID NOT use a Comp camshaft. I "re used" the "zero" miles, 40 + year old NOS Cam Dynamics Stage 2 cam with a "NEW" set of Johnson's "Hy-lift" flat tappet lifters to prove a point.....that it's NOT THE OILS!... it's NOT THE CAMSHAFT!........ it's the GARBAGE Comp lifters. Even on the "broken in" C/D cam with the "new" Johnson Hy-lift lifters, ONLY the number 5 exhaust cam lobe and # 5 Exh. tappet showed slight wear when previously, 4 of the NEW Comp lifters initially broken in on that "NEW" NOS C/Dyn. failed with the # 5 Exhaust lobe /Comp lifter showing the most severe wear. In this 2nd break in/application, these items were/are "sacrificial". It's called TESTING! I "INTENTIONALLY" broke every engine building camshaft rule in the book for this test. I made my point and that was the whole motivation behind this video. If it was the OIL(s)...."logic/reason" states that ALL 16 lobes & lifters should fail, if it was the cam, more than one lobe should be wiped out with an "edge to edge" wear pattern across the nose ESPECIALLY when using a "NEW" set of lifters on a "broken in" cam. Same for the lifters....there should be more than "one" damaged Johnson Hy-lift hydraulic lifter. There is NO MORE DAMAGE TO THIS C/D CAM on this 2nd test than there was on the first break in. Why? .......simple....the initial break in had shit quality Comp Cams hydraulic lifters! P.S. I'm NOT running this C/D Stage 2 cam in ANY engine until I regrind it and it will get NEW lifters! Why?....because I don't rip off customers!

[@edsmachine93]

I feel the frustration you have. I have the same frustration. So does everyone else. The cam and lifter companies know the truth and they are all hiding the truth. The companies blame the installer and the machine shop. All of the dozens of excuses the companies use to blame everyone else. But never except responsibility. The oil, the Zink additive is not the problem. Because you can use 18.00 a quart of racing oil , break in oil and still have the same problem. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.

[@jesse75]

Especially comp cams.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Hi Ed and thanks for the support. We are all in the same boat and it is everywhere. The part of this that really pisses me off is that it takes the same amount of green house gas emitting "energy", the same amount of " resource materials" and the same amount of "man power and labor" to manufacture "garbage" as it does to manufacture "quality" components! Where is the economic, environmental and social "advantage" in producing "garbage"? Someone somewhere feels "accomplished and successful" in the short term by fucking over the consumer? This "mentality" is a serious "illness" and leads and ends in one direction only, the destruction of our culture and ultimately, the destruction of our species. The "proof" is rearing its ugly head everywhere we now "choose" to look. That's why I "closed" the video with the issue that I did!

[@jesse75]

@@metalmaxmopar9520 I regrind my old lifters. Only problem, sometimes the lifter won't pump up again. But they are not going flat.

[@flinch622]

Massive frustration. In doing some reading, I suspect there is some either/or analysis. Maybe its both: some are bitten by bad lifters, some by oil, some by both. API specs lead to ASTM tests mostly, and in the case of the "IVA" test [astm 6891] that revolves around camshafts, the spec engine is... a Nissan KA24E, and the tech is different: no lifters to spin in the bore, but a pair of shaft mounted rockers utilizing a single head mounted cam & followers [tech reminiscent of what's in a 240z for example]. There's an IVB test for lifters: 8350, which if I recall has a pass/fail hinging on mass, which avoids the issue of crown [or loss thereof] completely. The oil industry no longer has a testing scheme valid for traditional flat tappet engines in my estimation - they market for manufacturers, and their specs, for the millions of engines they make every year. How many of those specs find sunlight in an API certs and how many are locked down in non-disclosure agreements I couldn't guess, but the overly lawyered can screw up anything - that's how Gates wound up hooking up with IBM many decades ago, bringing the world version after version of the Blue Screen of Death.. I continue to dig... next mission is history: what test specs were in place pre-1994?

[@garielgrenadius7564]

You can't argue with the dial gauge.

[@garhpd]

I was listening until you started talking about vaccines. Maybe stick to engines, something that you know about.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

I made that statement about the MRNA shots in relation to "MARKETING" and the thoughtless/ignorant "belief systems" of the general public.......don't see or make the connection? www.amazon.ca/Cause-Epidemic-Sudden-Childrens-Defense-ebook/dp/B0BB8JTNJZ Read his book, you might learn something.

[@barrykilts4506]

I didn’t know who you were till about 5 yrs ago but have come to value your info and have a couple questions you if you would be inclined to answer about flat tappet cam and lifters for gen 1 Chevy motors as I have no confidence in todays products but have a few cams from approx.the 90’s and 2000 or so.one is a slightly use crane 1st gen z/28,the other trw/speed pro that’s new.the crane looks to be made of good material and other I see no reason for concern but wonder what might be done to them both before use and what lifter you would use.i was thinking Chevy and not the cheapo’s nor the $400 lifters but a bit lower.whats your thoughts?thanks

[@steveblottenberger1097]

Come on competition cam tell the truth you went China China

[@Torquemonster440]

I like your style brother. Conclusive evidence based on PROOF !!.. Awesome job.. i really appreciate your honest efforts and research. Thank you. 👏 this camshaft crap is outta hand.. thanks for doing your best to share with the rest of us. 👍 Subscribed ! 🍻

[@jamiephillips3824]

Buy roller !!

[@steveblottenberger1097]

Competition cam it's all about marketing that's what they're doing made in China

[@Haffschlappe]

Edelbrock and Lunati too

[@0utc4st1985]

I'm new to the car space and would like to do a stock refresh on an Olds 403, new bearings, rings, cam and lifters all within original spec. A first time rebuild for a newbie is a daunting task in and of itself, but the lifter failure epidemic is alarming. Any advice? Thanks.

[@jarlnieminen4307]

If someone says it's oils I switch off

[@ronghile5393]

Suffered from coincidence and died from suddenly.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

“One of the saddest lessons of history is this: If we’ve been bamboozled long enough, we tend to reject any evidence of the bamboozle. We’re no longer interested in finding out the truth. The bamboozle has captured us. It’s simply too painful to acknowledge, even to ourselves, that we’ve been taken. Once you give a charlatan power over you, you almost never get it back.” ― Carl Sagan, The Demon-Haunted World: Science as a Candle in the Dark

[@MidnightOilsRestoration]

Great video, I totally agree with the tragedy that has taken place and I’m greatly concerned for the future! (In general). Also for my own soon future for the engine I’m putting together. I have an 87’ 318 with the (302) closed chamber heads that I did some porting and deshrouding on. The reason I decided to tear it down in the first place was because I found that the camshaft had been walking back and forth due to the timing chain bolt had backed off. I pulled the motor and the bottom end looked great so other than cam bearings I’m running it as it was. Unfortunately when I initially began this process (almost 2yrs ago) I chose a comp cams kit; lifters, cam, valve springs, retainers, etc. Since then I have witnessed all of these cam/lifter issues, and I’m really apprehensive about using what I have. The included instructions discuss using the outer spring without the inner spring for cam break-in before installing them both together (which is a real pain in the ass, years ago I never remember having to deal with any of this. Makes me wonder if comp is just making “much to do” as an excuse for the issues they know are going on. I’m throwing an engine run stand together to make sure everything is correct before I put the engine back in my van(not ideal) to maintain major work. So if I check the crown on all my new lifters (in the very box you displayed), which I haven’t yet done…and they check out ok, would you run it or should I send this junk back? Not even sure I can at this point 🤦🏻‍♂️! Gotta love when projects get set back.

[@barrykilts4506]

What does it cost to regrind and harden and who does it?I appreciate your info. but I am a back yard mechanic not a pro but I try to do my home work and have a small library.can you tell me how you go about hardening and regrinding I mean who does it

[@patrickwendling6759]

I was taught to run break-in lifters and rings, use break-in oil, 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes and to never let it idle..

[@rayvarnson8976]

Most all cam grinders get the lifters and cams from China, does that tell you where the problem comes from? Very few grinders are left in the US.

[@arthurking6549]

I've found that the lobe placement positions in relation to the lifter bore c/L are way off Tested cores from the 70's through to now Lifter crowns and possibly metallurgy are negligible as well

[@jondoes7836]

I recently built a 455 Pontiac engine for my 70 GTO with a NOS Wolverine Blue Racer cam & lifter set made in 1990. No issues. Engine runs strong. I wouldn't have considered building this engine without that NOS cam & lifter set because of today's issues...

[@Haffschlappe]

I just installed a NOS 1989 Edelbrock Perfomer Plus cam with ansieht NOS Perfect Circle DANA lifters it works fine

[@jondoes7836]

@@Haffschlappe Congratulations. I still wouldn't build any engine today using a flat tappit cam & lifters unless it was NOS. Let me know when you reach 24k miles and we'll see how your cam & lifters are doing.

[@robertbarnhardt9792]

Well I seen a lot of videos on this subject and just like you options are like a holes everybody has one

[@markheldt8026]

I remember back in the day when I built my 306 small block, all new internals, cam, lifters and rockers. Put all together filled it with 10w 30, fired up and drove away with no “break in”, drove around varying speed and rpm for an hour, shut it down let it cool, fired it up and hit the drag strip, 15 years no issues.

[@Schlipperschlopper]

todays chinese crap sucks

[@yurimodin7333]

I always thought that blaming the oils was complete bullshit to begin with(its not THAT sensitive ffs). I figure its a combination of improperly machined cams (little or no taper) and shit metals/machining on the lifters.....speaking of roller lifter failure the BRAND NEW Ford Godzilla engines are all flaking the plating off the rollers at 35,000 miles like clockwork and wiping out brand new engines.

[@steveblottenberger1097]

Competition cams is going cheap because they're doing so good so they don't care about their quality anymore

[@jesse75]

Tecs are great at blaming the installation.

[@peskypeet]

I believe it's more about penny pinching to give their investors more and more profit.

[@EchoSixMike]

Like many businesses, they get bought by vulture capital money grubbers, who then strip mine that business exploiting the reputation established by previous ownership.

[@sc358.]

Weird to hear about and sad if true. Worked at a place that built winning off road race engines and they used comp cams camshafts (jesel or morel lifters, manton pushrods, modified jesel rockers, xceldyne valves, psi springs...). It's been a handful of years since I built a race engine. Makes me wonder if I should use a Jones cam on the next dirt track flat tappet.

[@351cleavland]

My motor oil labeled "now including chunks of real metal to wear off pesky lifter crowns!"

[@JohnM-c5f]

Thank you sir for clearing this up once and for all. I’ve been building Chryslers for years with all kinds of oils and a separate zinc additive, never a problem and guess what, I’ve always used Hughes lifters…not sure why I chose them to begin with besides liking their cam profiles and maybe their prices were good. I even did a forbidden no no on my own 440 by reusing 1000mi used Hughes lifters on a brand new cam, 10 years later still look great. Keep up the good work! Mopar to you.

[@peskypeet]

Seems around 20yrs ago when I first heard the words China core and lifters I knew it wasn't just the oil.

[@floridaroadracerguy]

Take the camshaft out, have it (the one lobe) reground and re-hardened is a ridiculous proposition for the average garage builder. This is another example of poor quality of these non-roller cams. I got comps new DLC coated lifters and I'm hoping the lifters and cam will survive the break in this time.

[@bryanturner683]

Have you run the DLClifters yet???

[@terrylittlejohn]

i`m in nl, where in canada can i have one lobe fixed,

[@Vicus_of_Utrecht]

*The ending is gold* As AvE says, its 'marketing wank'

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Thank you Vicus. Some have been critical of that comment but I don't care. Truth is the truth!..... and with the evidence coming out daily that this is a "Bio weapon" (revealed by the patents), how long will it take for the "conformists and the compliant" to go bat shit crazy with rage?!?!

[@Vicus_of_Utrecht]

@@metalmaxmopar9520 Who knows? But I'll love to see it

[@ws2664]

Wow, you really had a lot to say in your description box, couldn't have said it better myself.

[@jayketler6158]

Here is what Smokey Yunick said back in 1987: The last and possibly the best advice I can give about lifters is to use the exact type and style lifter specified by the cam manufacture and follow his recommended break in procedures to the absolute letter. If you have a cast iron camshaft, you must use a lifter that has a steel cap on the base. If using a steel cam, you must use a chilled iron lifter. Modern racing profiles generate incredible valve rates. This results in a great deal of stress between the lifter and the flank of the lobes, and it's very easy to wipe out a new cam in just a few seconds. It's especially important to put a good coat of extreme pressure lube on the lobes before you put a new cam in place. You don't have to goop this stuff all over the place, but you should use your fingers to massage into the lobe as HARD AS YOU CAN. If you are using a flat type lifter, I think it is a good idea to buff the base until it is really smooth. We have also found that if you're breaking in a real monster cam, it helps a lot to have the lifters surface hardened with something like a nitriding treatment, but this is going to be kind of expensive for most racers. When all is said and done, you're going to have to be some sort of witch doctor and very handy with a spring compressor to break in a serious racing cam successfully, and if you screw up even the littlest thing, you're going to rebuilt the engine before the paint on the block has much chance to dry. I apologize about commenting on oil, but the modern retail oils have way too much detergent in them (for emissions reasons) and will break down any additives you add to them within seconds or minutes. All the oils you showed are no good for break-in, even with additives. You must use special break-in oil for flat tappet cams. Learned that one the hard way.

[@scottsthaname1]

Driven BR30 is what I use... and you can't go wrong listening to Smokey...👍

[@baby-sharkgto4902]

Yeah I use Driven too, not just their break in oil but their full line of synthetic engine oil (depending on what weight oil the engine requires)

[@amundsen575]

oil testing, there is another good professional on you tube out there "The Motor Oil Geek" he is a lubrication specialist. I agree as many machinist show lifter machine quality is crap , terrible surface grinds

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Thank you for the info, I'll check him out.

[@chetmarcotti4953]

How in world did this guy get to display his warped attitude to sell his point about something so disconnected

[@ericfaley9019]

In your video you never mention if there is a taper on the lobes. Very important. Also again you have a lifter/cam wear in one of the same lifter bores. You never showed does the lifter rotate freely in the lifter bore. Is the block decked or the heads milled? Did compensate and use shorter push rods? The pushrods could be bottomed out in the lifters causing them not to rotate. Valve springs? Some cam manufacturers and professional engine builders state run a light spring until the cam and lifters are full broken in. Then reinstall the valve springs you’re going to run. We’re seeing roller cams going away in modern production engines. Yes today’s quality has in materials seems to have gone down. Maybe today’s modern oils have too many additives that the actual oil cant lubricate properly even with the zinc additives. I wonder if today’s additives are breaking down the Zinc? Maybe next time try straight 30 non detergent oil. I found our local Car Quest sells it. I’ve found we have a few engine builders in my area.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Thanks for your comment. Please watch ALL of my "Camshaft Crisis" videos as there are 4 of them and starting with the first of these earlier videos will answer ALL of your questions. EVERYTHING that can be VISUALLY inspected and that I can physically measure is CHECKED. Lobe tapper, lifter crowns/diameters and block lifter bore diameter and block lifter bore to camshaft lobe alignment. All valve springs/push rod lengths etc, etc are measured. The only device I don't have in my shop is a Rockwell "C" scale hardness tester. A portable "hand held" Rockwell testing unit that I previously used at work in the metallurgical lab is on the shopping list for 2024. What more can I do other than go to "rollers" and those are now breaking down too? kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJWydYF5i5aXn9U

[@DANTHETUBEMAN]

that's the products I used, and those are the products I did not use written on the bench, me and my car run fine. 😅😁🤠

[@michaelfackler9716]

Black is white , or is white black ?

[@randyroy4074]

I'm a car guy. Not on your level but I do love engines. Your comment on the forbidden subject was enough for me to subscribe to your channel. Thanks Thanks for all your work.

[@704406bbl]

Thanks for laying it out there like it is. This is exactly what needs to get out there. Clarifies why back in the day when most of us were in our late teens and twenties we knew enough to be dangerous and were swapping camshafts out in the back yard and running the hell out of them and no failures..unless you slung the rods out of the engine missing a gear or not letting up! Carry on. We love it!

[@BBBILLY86]

Exactly!!!! I changed a dozen cams before I turned 18. I did 2 of my own and every kid I knew wanted one too. Zero failures and I was 16 years old and took no precautions.

[@fatotis6273]

Me too!@@BBBILLY86

[@steveblottenberger1097]

This guy right here and knows his stuff you got my vote you make sense you showing the proof you got to spend extra money to get good quality which people don't want to do anymore what competition cams it's all about everybody wants a competition cam because they've been doing so good and then now it's all about marketing and let's do it cheaper

[@rickinmi]

You are right on point re "marketing"! Right on "point" Heh.

[@robertbarnhardt9792]

440 source also sells rope seal

[@ws2664]

If you do send that cam out who would you send it to, I have a 512 stroked 440 with a comp cam and lifters, I may pull this a part and check it and see what I find. Any help would be grateful.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Hi Bill. Where do you live? I'm located in southern Ontario, Canada. I have a crank and cam grinder in Concord, Ontario that does this type of work for me. If you are located in the USA, call up a local "reputable/reliable" machine shop and ask them who does their crank grinding and if they do cams. If you have nothing "local", you may have to call/send it to one of the custom cam grinders like Bullitt, Jones, Powell's etc. Regards, Tim.

[@ws2664]

@@metalmaxmopar9520 Thanks Tim, i'm down here in florida, U.S. I have been staying on top of this lifter problem and I'm getting concerned I may pull this a part and inspect them, thanks for the info.

[@jesse75]

Delta Cam in Tacoma Washington. I've gotten over two cams from them. Never had a problem.

[@ionescubogdan2348]

Thank You from Romania.

[@jodiking6374]

Thank you for your critical thinking and speaking the Truth on all subjects. Truth is as hate To those who hate the truth.

[@flinch622]

Rock solid. There's always a struggle to get at facts, and it often boils down to what we read. I know of no way to fully verify a depth of hardening process except by destructive testing, and no home gamer is equipped for that. Also, iso 9000 is not a quality control system, its an assurance system - one step below. I continue to be amazed athow many corporate types remain unaware of this fact. Any business outsourcing anything needs to do random qc work or problems await.

[@yurimodin7333]

all iso9000 does is just extreme documentation of the processes even if its shit.

[@401cam8]

what's frustrating is the fact comp or any other manufacturer won't acknowledge whats going on! It's like they don't even care to fix this issue.

[@Haffschlappe]

They are owned by Chinese investors

[@four-eight-zero5627]

Salute to you, sir. o7 I'm about 300 miles (plus plenty of idle time) into my mild SBC truck build. I did use a Chi-Comp cam but went with GM Lifters and Driven break in/hot rod oil. No issues. Absolutely agree with the end of your video. I'm seeing a general retardation/incompetence of a large chunk of workers in a wide range of jobs. I wonder why... 🤔

[@jessecompeau4370]

GM doesn't make lifters, Delphi is the OEM who makes liftesr for them. I believe they are made in mexico and have been for maybe the last 10 years. Also don't believe that the Delphi "hard bottom" lifters are gods gift to camshafts. They still do fail and i have had a couple of sets fail on my in the last 2 or 3 years. In my opinion the problem isn't just a lifter issue or a cam issue. It is a combination of the 2.

[@four-eight-zero5627]

@@jessecompeau4370 Yeah, that tracks with just about everything else sold here in the states.. overhyped junk. Hopefully I can catch it quick if it happens.

[@Anarchy-Is-Liberty]

If you have a lathe or mill, you can also make yourself a flat surface for inspection as well. "put a "top hat" on, a "bone" through your nose, rotate twice counterclockwise while facing east between 7 & 8 am on days not ending with a "Y" when you sacrifice a chicken and scatter it's remains around your engine building stand as a "solution" to this issue. That should work!" - How dare you insult my engine building practices!! LOL 🤣

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

I'm changing my hat to a bowler!........with a pink rose between my teeth......while I do the "Locomotion".....Grand Funk Railroad's version of course.......I'll let you know how that works out! Thanks for the smile man!

[@ve3cwq47]

Should've stuck to your lane fella. Started off as an engine builder but suddenly became an expert in immunology and virology. What's next? Flat earth? Q?

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

I never claimed to be an "expert" in virology or immunology, the comment was directed at "MARKETING"!! Get it? NO proof of "safe and effective" with the clot shot same as the oils get the blame for the cam/lifter failures! Don't see the connection? Corp/government tells you so....so you believe it?...based on "FAITH"? .... Where the proof? Wheres the testing? I'm NOT so trusting because these "institutions" have a bad habit of telling LIES....economic lies, war lies, debt lies, environmental lies...etc...etc....or maybe you have not noticed? Tick Toc...tick toc...tick toc!! live.childrenshealthdefense.org/chd-tv/shows/good-morning-chd/ed-dowd-they-cant-run-from-this-data/

[@bob_g478]

I was in until you started the antivaxxer shit. Your insights on cams and lifters are valid. Your opinion on vaccines is not.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

I was NEVER an ANTI VAXXER until Covid! Read Robert Kennedy Jr's book "The Real Anthony Faucci" and Edward Dowds book "Cause Unknown". These ARE NOT BOOKS OF FICTION. Then go to Karen Kingston's site at "Substack". When YOU have an argument that counters the research/bibliography's of these publications then come back to me and justify these mRNA shots. It's a BIO WEAPON, funded by the NIH. Starting in 2002 these were PATENTED and the US Patents office have the documents to prove it. Just can't wrap your head around that thought? Too terrifying? Tell you what Bob, come back a year from now, say in June 2024 and tell me then...... what you think. How can you believe ANYTHING spewing from these "captured/corrupted" government alphabet agencies as being the truth?

[@jerryhablitzel3333]

mRNA injections? What are you smoking?

[@jessecompeau4370]

I wouldn't take health advice from my engine building/machinist colleagues. Its not exactly in their wheelhouse.

[@VicTor-gi7so]

maybe you need to listen.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

My tolerance for peoples ignorance and stupidity is at "whale shit" levels. I now promote the "booster" shots for people who cannot "think" for themselves. Do you have all your "booster" shots Jerry? It's up to 5...... or is it 6?...or maybe 7 now!

[@jerryhablitzel3333]

@@metalmaxmopar9520 What are you talking about?

[@jerryhablitzel3333]

@@VicTor-gi7so to what?

[@DarrenShaw-ev5tb]

Hearing you speak - Reminds me of AvE from Alberta ! Great work

[@v8packard]

👏 Bravo

[@steveblottenberger1097]

This gentleman has been doing it for a long time and being very honest competition cams went to China

[@anthonyrowland9072]

They grind the cams locally but they use barely trained grinders. The same company that bought them bought Edelbrock and I've heard a lot of those "made in the usa" emblems are BS.

[@rickkelsch2040]

Its a V Block

[@larryw5429]

I would of never reused that cam with new lifters!

[@johnnyarvo8954]

Great video just confirmed what I always suspected. Comp Cams more like Copper Cams

[@Vicus_of_Utrecht]

Lol I just had a chuckle about making a copper engine in my head

[@DSIRestorations]

Have you ever had the lifters hardness tested? Just curious. Thanks for the video, good work

[@tomstrum6259]

Is this video showing the Same Camshaft with new Huges "Hylift Johnson" lifters after Break-in & discovering the #5 Lobe & Lifter wear issues ? ....Or is this Video showing a Totally New replacement Camshaft after Break-in with Hughes "Hylift Johnson" lifters ? ....Thx for putting video up....

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

It's the same NOS Cam Dynamics cam shown in the previous video's with 16 "new" Johnson Hylift F/T lifters. This is what I wanted to prove......that the lifters are the issue, not the camshaft. It was just bad luck that the (1 of the 4 ) "Comp" lifters damaged the # 5 Exhaust lobe to a point where the taper ground into the lobe was "compromised" and ended up wearing flat (edge to edge) with these new Hughes "Johnson Hylift" F/T lifters. Notice that the "NEW" lifter in the # 5 Ex. location rotated, did not immediately fail and still had a 0.002" crown on it! The wear damage to the "lobe" was caused by the previous Comp lifter that affected, then damaged the new lifter. Because of the "scoring" to that new #5 lifter face, it would have eventually stopped rotating and ultimately failed in due time. All the other 15 "lobes and lifters" (including where the other 3 damaged Comps lifters were located) indicate typical/excellent wear patterns. Regards, Tim

[@henryyunick3433]

Yes, back in the day for me was the early 80s. We never had any issues like this, even with a half assed cam break in... I am planning a mild 440 Dodge build, and have worries about the cam and lifters. I learned plenty here on what to watch for, and who to spend my money with. And i will have my new parts measured and tested before i run them.

[@michaeldunagan8268]

@15:44 I rem er hearing a story around 2020 where a guy fatally wiped out on his motorcycle. The hospital officially put down in the statistics book that he died of China virus.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

I prefer the rope seal as well. I have a few of the OE asbestos type rope seals I bought a long time ago. I think the whole 'failure' problem is from what I think you mentioned in an earlier video, the new lifters. I also bought a ton of NOS lifters on ebay a long time ago I've been using and haven't had any problems. I would still use an NOS set over these 'new' ones. They're all over even now. You could probably pick up a set in the $150 range easily. That really is something that even the supposed 'best' lifters made now have varying chamfers and machining tolerances as wide as they are. The old ones I have and inspected don't have any visible chamfer that you can see by eyeballing them. That crown seemed really high too. Most of the NOS lifters I've checked were closer to the 1.5 thou range. I think too much is as bad as not enough because it needs to match the camshaft otherwise the contact pattern is off. If I remember from checking the cam needs a little more because of the angle the tappet is offset from the center of the lobe, in order to get the correct surface contact for rotation. Maybe 2-2.5 thou. I agree with your description. There's a lot of 'noise' and supposed 'experts' out there. Even if you didn't have the technical facts a little common sense goes a long way. About 36 years ago I broke in a few cams and did everything WRONG as far as the oils and springs etc and never lost a cam. Used regular oil, no additives, just Isky Revlube on the cam. Left in the 333lb springs. Why are all these people still having 'failures' that do everything right? Only thing you can't control is manufacturing of the parts you use.

[@invertedpolarity6890]

The only company I am aware of that is making excellent, quality lifters is Johnson.

[@67coronetman]

What is the name of the company that makes that rope seal again.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

www.manciniracing.com/bheremarose.html

[@invertedpolarity6890]

Agree. It isn't the oils. And the detergents would not affect how the ZDDP would work.

[@kendriver9139]

Just kinda liked this Video until the MRNA end.. Then i loved it! Spot on with everything your saying. Junk manufactured lifters and cams and junk injections..

[@michaelgiglio1571]

Sensible point. Only I'd say. 5w 30 is real light for v8.

[@Haffschlappe]

No 20W50 or 15W40

[@nikcooper3220]

Found your channel today. Just hearing you speak and how you have conducted your investigation shows your years of experience and expertise. Although it is on unpleasant terms i have truly enjoyed watching this saga. I have very little videos and none of my building process but all the vehicles in my videos ( some roller some not) have comp cams and lifters in them. I sence the day is coming that i will suffer the same fate as you and others have. On a side note when i first noticed this issue i used the comp pro magnum hyd flat lifters. My line of thinking was they are twice the price so probably get sold half as often. It worked out for me not sure if it is a fail safe plan though. Thanks for the quality videos, quality workmanship and quality logic.

[@syyenergy7]

so true 100% !

[@alcyr5655]

On my second Powerwagon, just dreading the thought of lifter failure. Bought the 15 used and regret trading it in, for a 18. It's having to use the 0-40 Pennzoil that concerns me. Probably a good choice for Canadian winter, I just don't want to jinx myself. And it idles alot when it's -30C, 2 cycles on command start, other than that, it's limited. I knew it would be a pig on fuel before I bought it, but I hope the 3rd Gen hemis - yes lifter problem, but they are mass produced.

[@dannybradley271]

Thank you!

[@daviddaniels9208]

Love the rant! Right there with ya brother! Just wanted to clarify, not to be a Karen, I use Johnson Hylift lifters and I think that is what you meant. Johnson lifters make roller lifters only. Just to clarify and make it easier for fellow gearheads to find the best parts. Also wondering if you have experience with quality roller lifters. Would be interested in your opinion on which ones are best. I believe Johnson lifters are made in USA.

[@johnnienitro6812]

There are 2 Johnson lifter companies David.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Thanks David for the correction. These are "Johnson Hylift" F/T lifters that I am using. As far as your question on "quality" roller lifters, I need to know the "context" of this question. A "solid" roller lifter for a competition/racing engine? A "hydraulic" roller lifter for a street engine? One thing to keep in mind and very few builders talk about is the roller lifter wheel "diameter" and whether the axle shaft uses needle bearings or a bushing based on the valve spring pressures. (IE:) a Larger wheel = better lifter stability and less side loading in the lifter bore. This is limited by the lifter bore diameter. Chrysler's have an advantage due to their 0.904" lifter diameter vs the "stock" Chevy's and Fords. Is oil "pressure" feed to the roller wheel needle bearings/bushings for maximum lubrication and component life? Nothing is simple David! Here is a link to a really good article that may answer most of your questions. www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/bearings-vs-bushings-the-great-roller-lifter-debate-explored/ Regards, Tim.

[@drifterengines243]

How do you seal a pan gasket on a 360 the rear rubber seal do you put the rubber seal on then the cork gasket on top of the rubber ends or under the rubber rear pan seal? The cork seems to short it dosent touch the main cap

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Hi drifter. Make sure you have the right pan gasket set. The LA 360 has a smaller diameter #5 main cap and the LA 318/340 end seal won't work/fit on a 360. You can look up the differences on "Rock Auto's" web site. Assuming you do, the rubber #5 main cap seal goes on first, put a light bead of RTV between the main cap and the rubber seal. Put a dab of RTV sealant on the ends of the rubber seal to seal it to the block. The oil pan side rail gaskets (usually cork) go on next and they can slightly overlap the rubber main cap seal. Again, seal the "overlap" area (block side and pan side) with a dab of RTV sealant. Sometimes, depending on the gasket manufacturer, the side rail ends can be a bit too "short" or a bit too "long". If too short, fill in with some RTV, if too long, "trimming" the ends that meet the cap rubber seal may be necessary for the correct fit. (this also applies to the front timing cover.) To finish it off, run a bead of RTV on top of the rubber seal(s) to seal the oil pan to the #5 cap and the front timing cover. Clear as mud? Good luck. Regards, Tim.

[@truthboomertruthbomber5125]

@drifter - the best sealant is the black stuff sold by Mopar. It’s definitely worth the extra couple of dollars. I discovered it when I worked at a CPD dealer back in the late 80s.

[@frigglebiscuit7484]

also, if you have a 5.2(318)/5.9(360) magnum, they both use the 360 oil pan style(size).

[@truthboomertruthbomber5125]

@ 11:30 onward I think your dial indicator doesn’t move in the center of that lifter meaning that there is a flat spot there. Find your dial test indicator and check them again.

[@metalmaxmopar9520]

Yes, there is a "flat" spot there. That's the measured result from the ONE "damaged" Johnson Hylift lifter from the #5 cylinder exhaust lobe after running for more than 60 minutes. I wanted to prove/conclude that it was NOT the lifter "crown" going "bye, bye" due to poor heat treatment and/or poor lifter face machining. This lifter was damaged by the camshaft lobe wearing flat (edge to edge). That camshaft lobe (#5 exhaust) was previously damaged from using the first set of Comp lifters even though it measured up with a 0.0015" tapper. I show all this in the previous videos. That why I marked (paint daub) were the previously "damaged" Comp lifters (4 of them) were located in the block. The other 3 (lifter) locations indicated an excellent rotational wear pattern on the lifter faces as did "ALL" of the other Johnson Hylift lifters.

[@Vicus_of_Utrecht]

@@metalmaxmopar9520 I missed this. Very good observation from you both. MM, please make a summary and update in description! I use your videos to teach. Gen Z are actually really alright. There's a rejection of the current hyper-tech cars. The kids want easy to work on cars. EV is so dead Ford sent a desperate man to sell the "Mach E" to Jay Leno and the cringe salesman shit was lambasted in the Comments.

[@jeremyking5684]

Been using comp 20 years now with absolutely no problems, just done 5 comp cams and lifters in the last 8 weeks with absolutely no problems, all of them was the extreme energy line. I only use Lucas break in oil, has 3,000 ppm of zinc. All break in oils no matter the brand has around 3,000 ppm of zinc that is key. New oils has to much detergents in them that kills the zinc on break in. After break in i use Rotella t4 10w30, have for almost 30 years.

[@lawrencecarlson2425]

Many people NOW are coming around to this same opinion. To remedy the flat tappet problem, many turn to high quality rollers(there are garbage rollers too) and have better luck. Some say because flat tappets represent less than one percent of the aftermarket, manufacturers don't care too much for the effort to produce under strict specs. Great content here.

[@steveblottenberger1097]

I have total respect for you you've been doing this for a long time we're going to have a holes that are going to be coming up with an excuse because of competition cams went to China

[@AlanRoehrich9651]

I'd be interested to know if you have checked the expensive racing flat tappet lifters such as the Trend lifters.

[@scotts439]

very interesting stuff! subscribed

[@Jeff-j7o]

Hi was wondering about the lifter fit to bore have you checked that?

[@apachebill]

Been using VR1 high zinc oil and Rhoads Lifters for over 40 years. 320-340 lbs open spring pressure on every break in. Never lost a cam. I measure and inspect everything before it goes in. Prevents a lot of issues. Never took the jab. So I can’t speak to those failures either. But the mis-grinding of lifter faces destroying motors is a real thing. And not having zinc in the oil won’t cause immediate failure. But I’d be scared to go long term without it. After 40 years that bottle of VR1 makes me feel warm and fuzzy. And it’s kept the mill in my Pontiac spinning through thousands of passes since 1989. As close as I can come to proof it’s good oil. But it all may just be pure luck. 😅

[@frigglebiscuit7484]

i can tell you its not the oil for one simple reason: i use stp oil treatment on my cams. turns out, theres almost NO ZDDP in it. ive never had a good set of lifters go flat.

[@jameswarren1871]

Hello, Thank you for doing these videos. After this experience would you still build an engine with a flat tappet cam? would you use a Hughes cam? I'm building a street 440 and debating using a hydraulic flat tappet or going hydraulic roller. Also I have NOS old TRW 2355 .030 pistons, are these ok to use in a street engine? Thank you.

[@bob9483]

Commenting about the oil, now from evidence but from experience, that castrol mineral is good stuff