Can we turn a catastrophe into a learning experience? Nordmende Rigoletto 59 pt.1

Only $5 for 10 PCBs and every new member get $5 bonus. + Express 24 hour / 48 hour service on www.pcbway.com/ ➠ ➠ ➠ In all the years that I've been restoring tube radios, I've only had to deal with a broken dial glass twice. In one case I was able to do a semi-repair, and in the other I actually produced a replacement as the entire surface was clear and visible. This one is different. The entire dial glass is shatterred, so reproducing it is going to be challenging. Never mind. It's always an opportunity to learn something new.
I also want to do this series with far more detail than usual, to help people who are still learning the basics, as others helped me when I first embarked on this adventure.
I hope this serves to increase knowledge on these fantastic radios, and encourages more people to save them from oblivion.
I hope you enjoy the series, and invite you to comment.
You can now support the channel:
/ mcaldeira
paypal.me/maca...
#tuberadios #antiqueradio #radiorestoration
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[@DavidTipton101]

I cannot even begin to imagine how that glass was broken like that, it has shattered. Anyway, it looks like a straightforward restore Manuel. Cheers!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Should be fun to try something different or change.

[@erikdenhouter]

It is not a good idea to add a 'protecting' sheet of any thickness on the glass, because it will transfer force from the outside of the box to the glass. That's how I think it happened.

[@claudiusdan6165]

Hi! I believe that the root cause for glass shattering is poor scale fixture design: as far as I can see, the glass is secured only by 4 clamps placed at the very far left and right ends. This leaves a huge distance where the glass has no support. The resonance frequency for the thin glass blade will be easily met during transportation. After the initial break that, most probably, will occur in several places, the broken glass pieces will be shattered by hitting all other interior parts. In my opinion this scenario is most probable since package has no external marks.

[@williamwoo1437]

The box had probably experienced a drop during its journey. Sometimes a drop will not have visible damage to the box, but the impact will destroy fragile content. I'm a package designer for mail-order business. Furthermore, the design of the product can affect the chance of breakage just as the other comment had pointed out. For a vintage piece like this, it's truly heartbreaking indeed

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@SteveHacker]

Bravo to you on the whole thing about showing everything, and explaining everything in great detail, as compared to most other KZbinrs that skip details and assume you already get it. NOPE! I’m sick of those videos too! I call them “Look What I Did” videos. I don’t care what they DID. I want to see them DOING IT; ALL THE WORK, so I can learn from the process. So many people call their videos “How To”, and they show you the broken device in the beginning, and then a moment later, they show you the fully repaired/restored electronic device, basically a before and after video short, and the video is over after only 5 or 10 minutes. WORTHLESS! Some of us WANT the long 30 minute, 1 hr, or 2 hr long videos that SHOW EVERYTHING! So thanks very much for understanding this!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

My pleasure. I hope I do the process justice and make it a really useful series for those wanting the details.

[@tgr131]

I saw a cartoon once where a young boy bought a "learn to draw" book. He opened it with excitement, and on page one it said "Step 1 - draw a frog." If he had known how to do that, he wouldn't have needed the book. You are always very thorough, and good at explaining. I think your concept for this series is great, and look forward to it!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@preiter20]

The reason I always watch your channel Manuel is that you are very, very thorough. I learned how to read schematics from your markup of the schematics you do while repairing the radio. For me, you are in the two three radio/electronics channels with Mr. Carlson and David Tipton.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

That is high praise, as I follow both of them too. Thanks.

[@tubeDude48]

You should also add: Jim Burns as well.

[@robturner3065]

Even though I know my way round a schematic this is always the most enjoyable part of the restoration for me. It's a good way of teaching beginners, by highlighting the signal path. The rest is just power supplies

[@paulperano9236]

All three are high up my subscription list.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@roberthart8933]

Hi Manuel What a sad occurrence. I too learn lots from watching KZbin videos and I look forward to seeing you make a replacement dial. One of these radios came up for auction at the local radio club recently. I was surprised how big they are. They look smaller on video. And bubble wrap is the best shock absorber I have found. Paper does virtually nothing. I carried a harp to Europe and back in a suitcase. It survived!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@Donno308]

Hi Manuel. You certainly are going into a lot of detail with this one. I imagine that a novice restorer would find it very helpful. There are a few of these radios around. I restored an identical one about a year ago. Perhaps you will be able to get a replacement dial glass from a scrap radio somewhere. I'm sure someone will have one. From memory I was not able to get any audio, or very little, without the tone control buttons plugged in. Cheers

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I’m actually looking forward to trying to make one myself 😊 the tone switched do in fact need to be in for testing.

[@DerekHerbst747]

Hi Manuel. I replicated a dial glass in PowerPoint and printed it onto a waterslide decal. It worked nicely except that I had to live with a yellowish colour instead of the original gold.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes, that’s probably inevitable, except if I leave the gold areas transparent and spray gold paint from the back. It’ll be a trial and error but might work. Question: did the dark parts come through OK?

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

33:30 If you have a Windows pc, these come with a snip tool you can use to capture portions of what is displayed on the monitor as an image. Then you can paste that in any program offering an ocr capability to convert it into electronic text, e.g. you can use Microsoft Office Onenote, if you have it, which offers ocr for images containing text (provided the picture resolution is good). Then you can use an online translator to translate the text.

[@donhall2759]

I have a Grundig/Majestic 4090 with a cracked dial glass that needs to be reproduced. I will watch the whole series, probably multiple times! Thanks for all the effort you put into your work, it truly moves the hobby forward.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

My pleasure.

[@josephmagedanz4070]

I think I will like this format. I'm new to the hobby and trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@ACockburn1967]

Looking forward to this one!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@EsotericArctos]

I am like you, I do tube/valve radios as a hobby, I came along long afte the "tube" era as well. Mr Carlson and yourself have been my primary sources of information. You do a great job on your restorations and I have found them not only informative but also entertaining. You really do an awesome job. It is heartbreaking to see the dial glass broken like that. Sure they can be recreated, but they are only original once and it's just devastating....... Glad you are taking such a positive attitude toward it

[@electronicsoldandnew]

The positive attitude only came out after the scream when I saw it 😊

[@SHarris64]

I have learned so much from your videos over the years and have come to love vintage German radios because of your channel. In the early years of watching I loved the amount of detail you went into as I wasn’t familiar with the terminology or application of the theory of operation. I know so much more now. That being said… I miss the detail and deep dive information that you can go into. I would love to see more depth. You have a great methodology of how you approach the radio and how you repair it. The knowledge is invaluable. Thank you for all the effort you put in. 🙂

[@electronicsoldandnew]

My pleasure

[@Graphixman]

I enjoy your videos a lot. Seeing your methodology in repairs reminds me of my father who was an electrician and repaired televisions and radios for fun. Well done sir.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thank you

[@tanveernaeem1157]

This series of video on Rigoletto-59 came just in time. I have the exact same thing opened up in about hundred pieces on my workbench right now. So this should be a fun watching and learning from these videos. Thanks as always for sharing your incredible knowledge of these classy radios.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

It’s good to know that it’ll be of assistance to your restoration. You could do me a favour, though. Could you take a set of good photos of the dial glass (maybe in two or three pics) and email them to me?

[@wdtazi]

Oh my friend! "It will be nice to leave from here" I appreciate your optimism, I'm pushing and waiting for the next parts. Attila from Hungary

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍 should be interesting

[@Ragnar8504]

The carnage reminds me of an RTR I bought from the UK. The outside looked fine but when I opened the lid I found that the chassis had torn the mounting screws out of the plywood case and smashed a lot of parts, including one of the spindle motors. I do have a replacement motor somewhere but haven't touched the project in years. The plug for the tone preset switches is a nice design. My WSW Phono Tango 58 has the switches fixed with two big knurled screws so you can pull the switches without having to use any tools. That's nice but removing the chassis still requires soldering because both the speaker wires and the mains lead for the record player are soldered to the chassis. Looks like the EF81 was replaced at some point, it's a Tungsram and all the others are Telefunken. It's funny that the back say "220 V" right next to a voltage selector for the usual 110, 127, 150, 220 and 240 V!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@mostlyoldthings]

This is great Manuel! We have been watching you for a long time now and are accustomed to your excellent techniques. This promises to be a defining series which will cover everything in great detail without assuming that we know what you are up to all the time! I have redone a dial glass before by scanning and photoshopping the original, followed by making a screen print screen and printing on a new piece of glass, that worked well eventually but it was only to replace lettering which was peeling off, not a totally smashed panel. I will be interested to see how you work the miracle🙂.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

The reason I want to do this series in detail, is that most of the guys I learned from originally have stopped producing videos. I think advanced age has something to do with that, and as that may one day catch up with me too I want to do this while I can this 😊

[@jimf4492]

Manuel, I look forward to each new video you release. I like your explanations, and the way you annotate the schematics. I have just enough knowledge of electronics to be dangerous, and you (and Dave and Don and others) have helped me to fill in the gaps. I really look forward to this series since I own a slightly newer Nordmende, and also a beautiful Blaupunkt Riviera. Both worked when powered by my VARIAC (and a bulb-limiter), but I am scared to try full power until I replace a few old caps, etc.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍 hope this series helps you with your two radios.

[@Daijyobanai]

Postman somewhere along the line mishandled that box. Dropped it hard or chucked it into a van and watched it roll to a stop.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Probably 😊

[@petersdelucaaa2vg306]

Your opening comments about learning this hobby mostly from KZbin is very revealing. You know the difference between presenting a restoration versus actually teaching the “ how and why” of restoring vintage radios. I did not work in the electronics field but like you have learned the hobby by watching videos….yours mostly. I’m of course interested in how you replace the glass but I’m also interested in how you replace components on the PC board. On my bench now is my Dad’s 1959 Zenith C835R. I’m waiting for the special alignment tool to arrive as the two coils in each can are adjusted from the top….. That took me a while to figure out… Keep up the teaching. Thanks

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@coltronex]

Superb!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@JonRig]

Great! I never tire of deep dive videos so I am very much looking forward to this series! There is always something new to learn. But, man, that dial glass. I've had one or two transit damage issues in the past but I have never seen a dial glass in that state. It's like it exploded inside the radio! That's going to be a challenge...!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

True, a challenge indeed. But … makes it more interesting 😊

[@leewalsh2144]

Hi I think this is a great idea especially to encourage new comers to the hobby, and of course explain about electrical safety they can bite, keep up the good work.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@t1d100]

A suggestion for the glass... Disclosure = I have never tried this method... Hopefully, find a picture of the original glass design. If not, create it with a draw program. Use the drawing to create a negative transparency. Use the transparency to create a silkscreen. Use the silkscreen to apply gold leaf glue. Then, apply the gold leaf with a proper brush technique. Surely, easier said than done, but with your skills, I think you will be very successful!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

That could work 😊

[@ralphmans]

I have an RCA Victor Canada made by Graetz that has a dial glass problem, the graphics on the back are coming off. In fact I can see through the glass to the white reflective plastic. Good luck with your dial glass problem, looking forward to the next video, good luck.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks

[@mackfisher4487]

Manuel, Back to the early days of Electronics Old and New, filming as you work in great detail, certainly more time intensive for you then your present style. Your extensive video library is certainly a historical record on how to restore radios which new viewers should take advantage of.. Make sure you use chopsticks for this series.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I really enjoyed the in-depth aspect of some of those videos. As for the chopsticks, they’re now an integral part of me so won’t be abandoned any time soon 😊

[@mbak7801]

I received a couple of Ekco receivers with Bakelite cases. One was totally smashed, case and dial. The other had a smashed dial. A third has a dial where the names and printed on numbers seem to have detached over the years. A this stage I stopped buying these radios. The sellers suffered from chronic stupidity using a single layer of bubble wrap and brown paper for packing. I also brought some German radios. These are much nicer but one of the sellers claimed to have restored his radios but it was cosmetic only. All the bad components were untouched despite their protestations.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Bad packing … the most common way to kill a radio that has otherwise survived decades 😞

[@boriskolev9513]

Hi Manuel, I had few radios received with broken dial glas after shipping. I have a successful solution for this, the only thing is that you should have all pieces and mechanical ability of the chasis to accept thicker glass. For example if original is 4mm, the new resulting glass wil be 6mm. Of course the easiest way is to be lucky and buy good glass from german ebay. If you're interested how I'm doing it, write back. Greetings from Bulgaria.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I think I see where you’re going but the problem here is that a lot of the actual display is gone … into minute pieces of glass. We’ll see when I get to it just how much will be visible.

[@fotoralf]

Note in the list of spare parts the Rigoletto's dial glass is listed at 6.05 deutschmarks, or 3.02 euros in today's money. Just order one. :-)

[@electronicsoldandnew]

At that price I’d order 10. At least one would get through intact 😊

[@rotwang83]

I was thinking the same, we got a parts number, just call Nordmende in Bremen and order a new dial glass 😉 Sadly, they are not around anymore 😕

[@electronicsoldandnew]

😊

[@michvod]

I had the exact same chassis not so long ago, and the FM was completely dead. Managed to repair it, but it was bit of a guessing game :)

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@Neraxia]

Seeing that triangle piece of the cabinet broken off i would guess the box took a really nasty fall during transport,there would'nt be any obvious damage in the exterior of the packaging if it fell flat on the ground, but the imppact would be enough to break the dial glass. So i doubt it was knowingly packaged in such a poor state by the seller. Gloves my good man , wear a pair of gloves when removing the glass shards..... Looking forward to the rest of this series (and maybe a link to those English articles 😀 ).

[@electronicsoldandnew]

The gloves … yes. Forgot those. I’m afraid I cannot share the articles as the magazine now has the copyright. They paid for the articles, so I understand.

[@tubeDude48]

What a shame, the state of this radio! Radio Daze reproduces dials for American radio's. --- I was just the opposite. At the age of 9 in 1957; I was repairing TV's for my neighbors. I would pull out every tube and head down to the local grocery store where they had tube testers back then. I'd head home with good tubes in hand, and see if that fixed the problem. If not, I'd look for CAPs that looked bulged out or had a hole in them, and replace them. Oh, I should have mention that I checked the fuse(s) and rectifiers first! Back then I had only a VTVM. Nothing else, like I have now. --- As for your videos, since you show the schematics and mark what you have replaced- and since I can read a schematic, I have no problem following you. But for newbies, this could be an issue. But since you do repairs and are not teaching how a circuit works. I think this is enough, because their are plenty of people on YT that go into how circuit works. ---- So I feel that those that don't understand circuits, go to another channel and learn them, then come back to your channel to see a PROPER way to repair radio's. People need to realize your a repair channel, not a theory channel. Hope that helps. And keep up the quality work that you do! 👍

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@ErwinSerle]

Glass loves gravity and impulse ... Not. Had the same with 2 very well packed Philips GM60xx tube volt meters. The mirror behind the moving coil meter was loose and cracked. And for one of them the moving coil meter behind it was damaged as well. Same happened with another one, the front glass broken in a very well done parcel. But that is just plain glass that could be replaced.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@BJcanal270]

Always interesting content

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@scififan68]

I noticed that it seems to be dated July 12 1958 or 59 inside the cabinet.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

That’s about right for this radio.

[@gustavoangelero4068]

Por favor, usa guantes cuando hay vidrio roto, luego aspiradora. Es increíble como un pequeño trozo de vidrio puede pinchar y darte cuenta recién a los días.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

28:03 I will never understand why they wired circuits in this way in the old days I mean, if you compare this to any Tek scope or instrument, it looks a right mess - and it's the same case for most radios of the time. Surely they must have thought: this takes twice or thrice as long to make as any more organised and tidier method I can think of so we all better keep making them this way so that we can all be sure we will keep our jobs for as long as possible! What's really amazing is that half of the circuit is on a pcb and it still looks like a rat's nest!

[@erikdenhouter]

Surely, what they had then was the only way they knew of. We have been through history to get where we are now, not the other way around.

[@user-sq7bh8cl7y]

Hello Manuel, I've been following your channel for years and, along with David Tipton, you guys are top-notch. You asked for some feedback, well, in an alignment, sometimes you specify where you're injecting the signal ,but you forget to mention where you are measuring the resulting signal. E.g. With complex measurements, such as displaying the result of a bandpass filter on a scope, it's best to explain how you set up the scope, how you trigger it, and how the modulation is configured on the generator. I can imagine it being confusing for beginners. Believe me, I know how easy it is to forget to mention the obvious sometimes. "This is the only criticism I can think of, you master all aspects of this hobby completely in your channel. So, I have learned a lot from you about radio restoration. I worked for a national telephone company for over 40 years, the first 20 years in transmission and multiplex equipment with FDM (SSB), PCM, PDH, and SDH technology. With radio restoration, I'm going back a bit to my professional roots. I was wondering what your professional roots are... You mentioned once that you worked for Siemens, in which industry did you work then? (if you want to share that with us) I have worked a lot with Siemens telecommunication equipment myself. Manuel, I wish you continued success with this channel. Keep up the good work

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I have mentioned on a few occasions where I measure from and so on, but have realised that lately I’ve been assuming people know what I’m talking about without actually explaining. Hence my decision to do “back to basics” series. I graduated as an electronics engineer from UND in South Africa, and started working at Siemens in the security equipment department. Being a loudmouth, I went started in the project engineering section, so I dealt more with tenders and negotiating contracts than with the actual technical side of electronics. That led to my life being focused more around business than tech, but the electronics bug was always dormant in the background. A few years ago I decided that I’d take it up again as a hobby, and here we are.

[@werner.x]

I do know this problem very well - so well, that i stopped ordering these radios. If i cannot pick it up, i let it go. The problem is mass and the inhomogeneity of the whole thing. Mass comes with inertia. This mass gets accelerated many times during it's journey- and when the accelerated parcel hits the floor, many bad things happen at once. Chassis may break free from the wooden base, if not, it at least it moves around, splits the wood it's attached to, bumps it's environment, shatters tubes - transformers badly bend their bases, printed circuit boards get hair cracks, breaking lots of copper traces under their own inertia - heavy glass dials also literally break under their own weight - when the parcel get's thrown and then apruptly stopps. And throwing is exactly the way, postage trucks get loaded. Ideally there is a person to catch the parcels inside the truck - but very often the loaders are very alone with their load - and constantly under time pressure - catching doesn't work every time either. Especially not, if the parcel isn't lightweight, but light enough to be able to get thrown - just the heft of an old wooden tube radio. I'd almost guarantee you, that this radio was perfectly fine and got packed with love and care - but people just don't think about acceleration and inertia and what these forces will do, if applied to mass. Lucky you, if you hadn't had this happen several times before. I do know only two solutions - fill the inside as tight as possible with the right amount of foam with the right hardness to support everything with weight - especially glass dials, transformers, chassis before packaging - or pick it up locally. Or- the classic way of getting stuff the non throwable way -> strip it onto a hefty pallet, which has to be moved with wheels. What never works, is marking it with " Caution - Glass! " stickers. There is no room for special care in this business. At least not in Germany. These signs may even get targeted by frustrated pressurized workers in need of relieve. I did send you an email.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Makes perfect sense, and I agree that the warning stickers are a waste of time. Unfortunately, living on an island leaves me with very few choices as I buy most of my radios from Germany. Fortunately, it hasn’t happened more often. 👍

[@werner.x]

@@electronicsoldandnew If you are interested in the spare part, i'm currently on it.

[@radio-ged4626]

I can't think how the glass was broken in transit when it was double boxed and the boxes showed no sign of damage. I hope you manage to piece it together enough to recreate the screen image. I'm sure that if you can't someone watching will be able to get a screen image for you. Good luck!😊

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I prefer do design it myself as I quite enjoy working with drawing software. I’m a sucker for punishment 😊

[@sincerelyyours7538]

Sure looks like it got punched. What a sad sight! That happened to me once, but in my case it was a 45 year old upright piano that got punched by an errant forklift. The entire cabinet had to be disassembled to restore integrity to the frame. Was covered in mold, too, which meant that it wasn't stored well. Fortunately, the insurance policy I took out paid for most of the $5,000 restoration. I actually got a better piano out of the deal than what I started with. I'm sure you can do the same with this radio. Looking forward to the final results!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@mobilfone2234]

you could scan an article and have it translated, OCR is available..... I can read German and English, but not Spanish.... nobody is perfect 😂 my Saba Freiburg still waiting for some attantion 😅

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@mackfisher4487]

I was hoping Manuel would make the German magazine article available to his subscribers, but I thought perhaps copyright etc. would prevent sharing of the article. Perhaps Manwell would also start using the KZbin AI video translator too that's just starting to roll out.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

You’re right about the copyright issue. I’m actually looking at the translator, but it seems to be available only for really massive channels on a Beta version basis.

[@tonec3663]

I really like those metal brackets. I would be interested in getting a set of them. Does your friend sell them online anywhere?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

No, he’s got a metalworking shop, so he did me a favour of welding it together for me.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

looks like time to learn how to silkscreen on to glass. 🙂

[@electronicsoldandnew]

😊

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

12:29 You should be careful with these as the paint is on the back side of the glass and it can be very fragile in some case. Maybe not for certain radios or glass but I know this for a fact for dacron plates (ask me how I know). Once the paint on the back is scratched, you cannot recover it. Of course here you don't care too much as the glass is already gone but it's always good to be cautious as you don't want to have to put together flakes of paint as well as shards of glass. That would introduce another layer of difficulty.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@peterstanford9927]

My late father was a radio and TV Service Engineer in the '50's, '60's' 70's and '80's and he impressed upon us the importance of using isolating transformers, rubber mats , insulated tools and always putting one hand in your pocket if poking about inside valve equipped sets (especially). What are the dangers of pulling a chassis out etc if the set is switched off and maybe has been switched off for many years? Are capacitors on the mains smoothing side not dangerously charged still (even if equipped with a bleed resistor...is the resistor still functioning)? Also, if you get the set on test and turn it off to do a bit of 'twiddling' are there not charged capacitor dangers still then even if the mains supply is disconnected? Many thanks.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

All these issues will be covered here, as I too learnt them from old masters (many are unfortunately no longer with us).

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

14:05 They could've added 2-3 layers of strong cardboard on the front of the radio or, better, a sheet of plywood to prevent any kicks from resulting into this kind of damage. I don't think the crumpled paper inside offers significant protection. I'd use plenty of bubble wrap there or lots of crumpled supermarket plastic bags (I do mean lots). If the packaging was as you described it, this looks suspiciously like the result of a rather malicious act or gross mishandling.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Probably

[@gustavoangelero4068]

Hola M. Caldeira. Es horrible que sigan sucediendo estas cosas. Peor aún cuando hay una comunidad mundial de aficionados a restaurar antiguas radios y TVs. Todas mis compras han sido en flea markets o las he recogido personalmente. De comprar algo y que venga por un courier, me contactaría con otro aficionado de ese país, para que la desarme, retira el dial, lo envuelva en espuma y madera, y así reducir al mínimo la posibilidad de roturas. No dudo que encontraras la forma de restaurarla en todo su esplendor. Saludos.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Gracias 🙏

[@williamwoo1437]

No, it's not bad luck. It's just bad apple in the logistics chain. how the hell they did it? Someone threw the box a great distance, and the shock it experienced when it landed did the damage. I had a well packed testing gear damaged in the same way. The shock torn the well made pcb traces right off the board. And I have seen UPS drivers did the throwing right in front of my own eyes

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@horatiohornblower868]

The fact that the box wasn't damaged proves that the dial glass was kicked in before packaging.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I agree

[@robturner3065]

It doesn't matter how well you pack it, it will destroy itself through sheer inertia. Imagine the delivery guy throwing it into the truck at the depot, then kicking it off the tailboard outside your house. I once received a well packed sig gen which had decelerated at such a rate that the power transformer had punched a dent into the chassis it was bolted to

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes, unfortunately, we’ve all seen similar mishaps when dealing with heavy equipment

[@horatiohornblower868]

@@electronicsoldandnew Still I am convinced that the owner after a “terrible accident” happened to his radio saw only one way out: Saint Manuel Caldeira. Saint Dave Tipton would have been a good alternative, but unfortunately he lives on the other side of the world. Both saints work miracles from time to time…

[@electronicsoldandnew]

😊 this one will definitely need divine inspiration

[@GJackie24]

Maybe you can get PCBway print you a new face plate ?

[@cbiz8]

Manuel, how can i find this german articles you mentioned at the beginning? Muchas gracias.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

It’s published in ELV jornal. The first article was about two years ago.

[@cbiz8]

I found it. First part is on files2.elv.com/public/downloads/journal/elvjournal_2021_03.pdf page 86. Very high quality journal! Muchas gracias Manuel!@@electronicsoldandnew

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

6:56 What a shame! The radio looks to be in pristine condition given its age. I'd have to see that box-in-a-box package. Not all people understand the concepts of momentum, mass and energy which are basically what you need to have a grasp of in order to prevent collision damage. Oh, and that of damping too but only as a follow-up concept! With regards to this type of radios, i.e. those with a chassis in an enclosure, all it takes is for the radio to be placed upside down or sideways and a few jolts to follow and you could end up with a front glass broken or some other kind of damage. These radios are made to travel in the way they are meant to be placed: the right way up. Not many have a chassis that is attached rigidly enough to the enclosure to prevent mechanical damage from parts moving in relation to each other. In my mind, the sequence for packaging these radios would involve at least the following: a) open back, take out all tubes and ensure the chassis stays in place without moving even when radio is turned upside down b) wrap each tube in plenty of bubble-wrap, stuff the inside of the radio with plenty of stuffing material that will prevent the radio parts moving even if they come unstuck with care taken so that fragile elements such as the loudspeakers, wiring etc. do not get damaged by the stuffing. The tubes can also be placed in there with the stuffing. c) close back and continue packaging as you would for a crystal chandelier. If your knowledge of such things allows it,, between a and b, you can attempt to remove the front glass and the replace the chassis back in its place. The glass plate can then be sandwiched between pieces of strong cardboard and securely fixed on one of the flat sides of the radio cabinet.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@deepblueskyshine]

If you can find proper glass inks (they are the same as for the ceramics meant for use without furnace curing), manual screen printing (the way it was made originally) is not that difficult, and probably you can find someone still practicing it in your area (souvenirs for tourists were made this way before transfer printers).

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Need to start looking for someone here who can still do that

[@deepblueskyshine]

@electronicsoldandnew Modern plastic replacements are also a way out: my cousin recently brought me a souvenir from mainland Portugal - tradionally painted "ceramic tile" mounted in a cork plate for hot pottery placement, but real hot it could not handle - it was printer printed laminated plastic, so looking for what is available nearby would give you wider prospects.

[@xsc1000]

@@electronicsoldandnew You can also print it at transparent film and than put in on clear glass. Some films are made with one side adhesive.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍 that’s closer to home 😊

[@electronicsoldandnew]

True. The problem will be getting the dark sections dark enough to be clear. I may have to do a double layer trick.

Hi Mr. Caldeira. Do you speak portugues? I´m in Brazil and i get electronic channel in youtube too! 🙂

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Sim, sou e falo português. No entanto, estou mais à vontade em inglês no campo técnico

@@electronicsoldandnew Entendo bem, foi apenas curiosidade minha. Gosto muito do seu canal. Muito sucesso pra você. 🙂

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Obrigado

[@Indiestereographer]

Manuel, is this a Rigoletto 59 Traviata set? I'm in Germany and often see scale glass for sale ... Paul :-)

[@electronicsoldandnew]

It’s a Rigoletto 59 3D, which I believe is very similar to the Traviata.

[@Indiestereographer]

I think they are interchangeable...I may have found one but maybe you would prefer to restore/create a replacement...bigger challenge!!...fighting a broken Grundig tuning clutch right now!!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I think I’d like to try to recreate it. Should be an experience 😊

[@erikdenhouter]

@@electronicsoldandnewI understand the challenge, but be aware that making a print with modern means wil probably give you fading colors in 10-20 years 😥

[@electronicsoldandnew]

@erikdenhouter : I’ll let my daughter worry about that then 😊I keep telling her she should start dating an engineer

[@danwheeler2496]

How can I email you?

[@ralphj4012]

At least the thermionisch gluhelektrisch's survived. Your videos all seem to be in a Dutch dialect anyway, ho, ho.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

😊