Can You (Cerakote) your own Exhaust System at Home?

[@Spiritof_76]

The moisture when using a torch is a byproduct of combustion on the room temp metal, not water coming out of the metal. As the metal gets hotter, the moisture disappears as it transitions to a gaseous state. I'm going to cerakote a pair of those exact manifolds. Thanks for showing your process.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for watching!!!!

[@AnthonyCelata]

You beat me to the punch. 100% correct. There is no moisture being pulled out of that metal its condensation. Science.....

[@73SDR]

@@AnthonyCelata Certainly much of what can be seen is combustion moisture being deposited on the iron, and then evaporated. I don't see why that would preclude moisture already on the iron from also being evaporated. I've got manifold project going on now, and I'm planning on using a heat gun blowing into it for a few minutes to avoid the issue.

[@AnthonyCelata]

@@73SDR There is no moisture. You'll get better results if you just wash it with dish soap and water. At least then you would have a reason to dry it.

[@gertjevanpoppel7270]

A lot from the moisture is not coming from the cast iron but from the map gas itself. When map gas burn a lot of moisture is released from the gas molecules burning process. Burning map gas It can also leave a soot residue . Maybe it's a better idea to use a old electric oven to heat up and degassing the parts 😀

[@ACDesignsGarage]

The oven is a great idea!!!!

[@rtk1122]

Thanks!

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for watching!!

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thank you very much!!!!!!

[@fixinstuff9662]

Thanks for the idea. Now I'm looking at the specs on Cerakote. Mapp gas is a mixture that includes propane and the propane turns into water and carbon dioxide when it burns. While the metal is still cool, some of that moisture from the torch will condense on the manifold before it warms up. As long as you can keep the cast iron warmer than the ambient temperature, it won't take on moisture. Ovens work great if you have one just for shop use.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Awesome, thanks for the tips!!!!

[@fixinstuff9662]

It looks great, hopefully it lasts for a long time @@ACDesignsGarage

[@robtownsen1100]

mapp or propane add a lot of moisture, best off to use heat lamps. I have tested heated products with propane, then heat lamps. You can see the moisture disappear after it has been heated with propane. The heat lamp bulbs significantly reduce flash rust. This has been my experience.

[@BillyP-49Chevy]

It's December 2024 and it's been a year approximately since the video was made. How did it last over a years time?

[@VashSpiegel]

Run a file over the edges of the tape, makes trimming quicker.

[@fixinstuff9662]

That does work great.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Ill try that, I usually use a sanding block but got in a hurry, but a file would work better! Thanks for the tip!!!!!!

[@Kurnacopia]

Outstanding point...thanks.

[@immytay65]

I've learned a bit from this channel, makes me want to take on another project this winter, thanks so much.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thank you very much, go ahead and get that project, everyone needs 3 lol

[@itsalldoable]

I was surprised that you didn't cure the Cerakote in an oven. Turned out nice though. I am just doing some research as i am getting near to wanting to do some Cerakote soon. I have my own Powder Coating facility so Cerakote is the next thing I need to be trying. Cheers Paul from "It's ALL Doable" UK

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for the comment. As for the Cerakote, I used the C seris, which is air dry, also it's UV stable, unlike the H seris, which is a catalyzed heat cure. Check out the C seris. I think you'll like it!!!! Merry Christmas

[@BillyP-49Chevy]

I'm going to VHT the hot side of my turbo exhaust and bake it. If you've done that how did it turn out? I will be applying a primer and then the color.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

I still haven't fired that thing up yet lol, ill post something as soon as I run it a little

[@UnconventionalMetal]

Thanks for this, I was wondering about it and you’ve opened my mind to another possibility.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

I love this stuff, just ordered some more for my wheels!!

[@jeffersonheath7065]

Nice... is there a waiting period between coats?

[@ACDesignsGarage]

10 to 15 minutes is what they say between coats, thanks for watching!!!

[@charlescarter9270]

Actually they say apply in a single application, 1 to 2 mils thick, which isn't much. Just enough to cover the item. If it ever runs it's too thick.

[@davidhaas2528]

How have these held up? Cast can be tricky with Cerakote. I always degrease tank them, sand blast, outgas for a couple hours, blast again, then coat.

[@davidhaas2528]

Also, it is perfectly fine to coat the flange mating surfaces. it actually tends to help from rust creeping under the coating.

[@Wofski]

Looks good!!!

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thank you!!!

[@Brandonscode]

You can help that sand blaster window out with some rubbing alcohol and then clear packing tape! There some good KZbin videos showing the trick to make it clear again

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks ill try that!!!!

[@jeffflanagan2814]

Link please?

[@vg23air]

you can do better with mothers aluminum polish, also works on yellow car headlights and it's easier and faster than specific products made for that purpose

[@rtk1122]

I am definitely going to try this. I’d like to try the Black Velvet color on the headers and side pipes I’ll be installing on my Corvette. Is the sand blasting a requirement because I can’t get them in my blast cabinet? Sure would like to see your exhaust after a couple of actual heat cycles. Cerakote has got to be head and shoulders better than any high temperature paint for that price. Pretty sure it will take several bottles for my project. Now that my shop is out of the 100+ degrees maybe I can get back to work. Thanks for the video. Learned a lot.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Your very welcome, Im going to use a DA sander and 80 grit to do the other pipes, they wont fit in my cabinet eaither. I may do a sample spray out and heat it with a torch. Im gonna do my valve covers with that black velvet also.

[@rtk1122]

Thanks Man!

[@davidhaas2528]

As per Cerakote's training manual, sandblasting with 100 grit media is a must. It needs a very fine, toothy profile to properly adhere. @@rtk1122

[@jamespolucha8790]

Thanks for the video, I’m owing to try it

[@ACDesignsGarage]

You got this its pretty fun to spray!!!!

[@kickasspowdercoating]

Hey you don't need to tape off the header its better to coat all of it inside and out so it protects the metal .

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for the tip, I haven't mounted them yet, ill go back and spray them. I wasn't sure if it would effect the sealing.

[@Kurnacopia]

duhhh....excellent point. I am too used to paint prepping.

[@scottfromfl6828]

It looks good I wouldn't do the valve covers just my opinion

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for the comment, I agree with you, I think im gonna stay black on the valve covers.

[@joseantoniodaly4875]

Does cerakote gets mixed with a solvent or used pure ?

[@ACDesignsGarage]

The air cure that I used in the video is straight out of the bottle. All you do is shake it real good then strain it and put it in the gun!!! The H seris has to be catalyzed and heat cured.

[@joseantoniodaly4875]

@@ACDesignsGarage I bought C series !

[@greenman7yyy]

I'd like to see how it looks after use, like a year of driving.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Me to lol, I need to get back on that truck, ive seen other guys manifolds and they look brand new after alot of running!!!!

[@lewisla2010]

Nice video! Curious how that sample card turned out with the 80grit prep?

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thank you, I did my exhaust pipes with 80 on a DA sander and it looked exactly the same. It turned out just like the blasted!!!!

[@greasydot]

How did your oven work out that yall built

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Pretty well, I think it needs another burner so it comes back up to temperature after you open the door. I really like this C seris I used on these manafolds, its air dry no need for a oven. Ill try to shoot a video on the oven cure soon. Thank you for the support!!!

[@greasydot]

@@ACDesignsGarage awesome. I am thinking of getting into doing scopes, rifles and pistols is why I was asking. I have an upright freezer I am going to get all the plastic out and line with durarock cement board and an old electric oven for smaller parts and 22 inch barrels.

[@vg23air]

this is one way to do it, not the right way, but it's one way.

[@yves3560]

How to turn a 5 minute video into a 25 minute one...

[@syn4057]

It’s called “making content”. He also showed every bit of work. Not everyone knows how to do all the prep work to make paint stick. How properly paint and the wonderful idea of using eye hook bolts. You maybe very knowledgeable and that’s great. Maybe you should make KZbin videos to help new builders, like he is doing.

[@bmclaurine]

Sorry but until I see a ceracote part that's been in use for a while, I doubt that this will not burn off

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Ill post it up later on, ive saw a ton of it ran and still looks new. For the price you cant go to wrong!!!

[@mikelmorgan6409]

They cerakote the tops of pistons.

[@charlescarter9270]

It looks good but if you used 8 oz you put it on way too thick. I've done a set of manifolds, set of shorty headers, multiple small parts, bolts, nuts etc and I'm still not at 8oz. Also, no reason to mask off areas on the manifold.

[@vrcustoms7]

Which product did u use?

[@ACDesignsGarage]

The air dry c series

[@BondanHeru]

Anyone ever try on 2 stroke exhaust chamber coating?

[@jimprodan6776]

Why wouldn't you Blast them first? Now they need to be cleaned again to get all the dust off them.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

I did blow them off then shot them with brake clean right before coating them.If you watch cerakots videos they don't clean them after blasting for some reason

[@arnoldwilson3719]

next time when you tape up flanges just take a rubber mallet to the edges to remove excess tape faster.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for the tip!!!!!

[@strokermaverick]

Make sure, to show it on the running engine.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Definitely will do, I still have to break the cam in, so will give it a run for the money lol

[@BrianReno-qy9wk]

The inside is even more important. Watch a jet hot video or the way they cost the top of a part but not the back or inside. The uncoated part is sky high temps

[@marccheckpoint5353]

Why not to blast first ?

[@ACDesignsGarage]

I like to clean them first cause you can push the grease and contaminants down in the material.

[@BrianReno-qy9wk]

Still going to be hot inside the uncoated metal. Probably be even worse for the engine the heat can't escape. Jet hot flow coats the inside and outside

[@ACDesignsGarage]

I dont think the cerakote is really a great heat barrier but I could be wrong, they do sell this exact manifold pre cerakoted. Ill let everyone know how it does.

[@barenekid9695]

Product might be Good but the Shipping charges equal the already Pricey cost of Cerakote.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Yeah shipping stinks, sometimes jegs does some deals on shipping. But unless you have something else to cerakote your probably better off buying it finished like you said!!!

[@bng2679]

So I can't do it at home, I don't have a sand blaster.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

You can use a sander with 80 grit but a sandblaster works best, harborfreight makes a nice bench top blast cabinet for cheap.

[@bng2679]

@@ACDesignsGarage thank you, I will check that out.

[@s2k442]

Thats a lot of work and not everyone has access to a sand blaster. Interesting video though. I will take my motorcycle headers to a professional powder coater instead.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

Thanks for watching, you can use 80 grit on a da sander on smooth surfaces, but the cast stuff is hard to get in the nooks to get a good bite.

[@user-rb1yf4he9q]

Always trust a guy with a country accent when working on a car.

[@ACDesignsGarage]

For sure lol!!!!

[@user-rb1yf4he9q]

@@ACDesignsGarage the last place for real mechanics. Can always make something out of nothing and make it work better than original. And I’m saying this as a Californian whose car took a crap in Georgia and the kid fixed it without ever working on that model. Bravo southern ingenuity!

[@jeepinSD]

Just because you’re not mechanically inclined doesn’t mean they’re better than Californians.

[@user-rb1yf4he9q]

Completely agree ( from experience ). This goes for any rural mechanic. They just seem to get it.

[@jonathanhensley8685]

Please don’t use the chlorinated brake cleaner with the torch. It’s extremely bad for your lungs and health. 👍🏼

[@ACDesignsGarage]

I never buy that stuff ,it's bad news

[@hughiemaceachern5282]

You didn't need to bake it

[@ACDesignsGarage]

No this is the C seris ,its air cure and its UV stable so the sun wont fade it out like the heat treated version, also its good up to 1800 degrees!!!

[@chevypowerish]

Cerakote is absolute junk. My headers, coated by a cerakote dealer is rusting about 5k miles.

[@JoeThomasBall]

stainless steel or mild?

[@chevypowerish]

@@JoeThomasBall They are factory ram horn headers.

[@Genwonspeed3]

☝️☝️☝️ my friend....

[@paratracker]

Rumor: long tube headers and EPA compliance are non-intersecting sets. Catalytic converters do their best work around 750F, but 1200F would damage (vaporize) the catalyzing material. JBA1809 shorty headers are CARB approved on LS engines, presumably because collector proximity to the head is identical to the OEM manifold. If we coated the inside of the long-tubes with Cerakote C-186 Piston Coat and the outside with Cerakote C-7900Q Glacier Titanium to keep as much heat in the tubes as possible... could we achieve the desired 750F operating temp in long-tube cats?