Can You Etch Metal with a Laser? (Using the xTool D1 10watt Diode Laser)

[@bradcedergren]

I just found your channel today and you are already my favorite thing on the internet...well, almost.

[@BuildDadBuild]

LOL Thanks!

[@RickPMandel]

Hey Nick, everyone I was just looking at Amazon to order a can of Dry Moly. If I order it today Tuesday, I can get by next Monday, for $19.00 Or, I can go to my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts store, pick it up tomorrow morning, (I'd go now, but the store's closed) for $16.99. No guessin where I'm goin With that said, Nick, Thank you for this, and all of your videos. As a former broadcast Art Director and editor, I know the work you put into these productions. You manage to make everything you talk about, not only educational, but damn good entertainment as well, which helps people understand and remember everything better. You keep makin' 'em, and we'll keep watchin' em! All the best...

[@BuildDadBuild]

Thanks, Rich! Cheers

[@elizabethlorenzo7071]

So I’m having trouble with this technique I was able to find dry graphite lube at an auto store which may be my problem but that’s what I’m using I have the xtool d1 10w so after I run my laser and wipe the lube off it comes off of everything even my design any idea on what I’m doing wrong 😢

[@steveorel3097]

I know this is an older video but I have a little helpful hint about the “mill scale” on hot rolled steel. She is very easy way to remove us in make the steel raw and to remove all of the mill scale is to soak it in household vinegar overnight, it wipes right off. I have worked with metal for over 40 years and just learned this recently, wish I would have known it years ago. Really enjoy your videos BTW.

[@marcoss6212]

I'm still running it through my mind the issue of the number 10 shows burned and the actual skull doesn't maybe a light shadow of it. Thinking on this brought a little experience I had with my other laser which is 1.6 W. I bet you used Lightburn for those and I'm almost sure the number is a vector and the skull an image. Lightburn treats those two in a different way, different settings for each, if they are burn the the same settings, one or the other will suffer. If you can, get the skull in vector format and place a bitmap of it right next to it, you'll see the difference, the only explanation I can see. Hope it helps, cheers!

[@BuildDadBuild]

I've heard that a couple of times. I was using Laserbox, but I'll need to give it a try. Cheers, Marcos!

[@MsMrWiz]

OMG the out takes at the end!!! I almost spit my drink I laughed so hard!!! Great.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Thanks! LOL

[@Azarathification]

Little late to the party, but for the 10 pass skull, with it being different layer than the 10 number, is it possible the settings for that skull were set to a lower pass number? Also, just tried marking an aluminium ben blank I turned, and the marking easily rubs off. 3 coats of moly, and since I've had to do single pass, did experiments from 1-9mm/s. What could be causing it to rub off?

[@ka5363]

Thank you for this! We’re new with a d1 pro 20w and this is very helpful!! Gained a follower. Can’t wait to see your other videos!

[@Bump-mw6vk]

Do you have a setting for stainless to star t with I can't find one do you want speed low and power high? Thank you

[@BuildDadBuild]

I just use the stainless steel settings in Lightburn

[@bmorlok84]

Awesome video, as a machinist I know extruded aluminum is never flat.. its actually wavy. I feel like that could be the problem you experienced. New to laser cant wait to get it started!

[@BuildDadBuild]

Interesting to know. And welcome to #lasernation !! Cheers

[@edmelzark1069]

What were the settings for the saw blade I have the D 1 Pro and D1 Thank you Ed

[@BuildDadBuild]

Stainless steel settings

[@dean_duplantis]

Love the video. Really enjoy the effort when going through all the testing. great results

[@BuildDadBuild]

Thanks, Dean! Cheers

[@tugboatcapt1984]

if I was to get a 20w would I still need to coat the tumbler like you showed with the 10w. I'm trying to figure out what xtool machine to get

[@BuildDadBuild]

You can mark stainless steel without a marking spray with the 20w. It will be slow and not super dark.

[@tugboatcapt1984]

@@BuildDadBuild ok thanks I'm I'm in between the 10w and the 20w this will be my first laser and it's going to be more for gifts than anything. I'm more just wanting to do the tumblers. what would you recommend for a hobbie I know the 20w is much better. also I'm hoping that having some 3d printer experience will help me out with the new hobbie

[@rubenascencii1030]

Do you have to use that dark lubricant for the marking? Especially on brass? I'm just looking to mark numbers on brass. Not needing it to be dark but just visible

[@BuildDadBuild]

I don't think you can mark brass with a diode.

[@rubenascencii1030]

@@BuildDadBuild so fiber is the way to go?

[@BuildDadBuild]

For metals its the best option.

[@advoempower]

How durable is the marking? Will I need to spray a laquer coat over it?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I haven't been able to get it off. However, I guess it depends on the application of the metal afterwards on whether you'd need a topcoat or not. Cheers

[@MT-rg4dm]

Do you ever have it not work when engraving metal seems like it’s inconsistent. Do I need to clean the lens? What gives

[@BuildDadBuild]

Totally depends on the metal.

[@TheRetiredVet]

I saw one video where the guy said he used black spray paint. Does that work as well as the dry molly lube?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I honestly have never tried that.

[@dazzy8155]

Will it (or the new 20w) get through anodizing and mark the metal below (on a gun)?

[@BuildDadBuild]

completely depends on the firearm, type of metal, anodizing, coating, etc.

[@haidafella8651]

How deep are those ten passes on steel? Are they as deep as 0.3mm?

[@haidafella8651]

I think you answered it at the end there

[@duranbarnett8587]

What would happen if we used paint like in the tile etching method?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Good question. I don’t know.

[@sharonhobson5297]

Can’t seem to get Dry moly lube in Canada. Does it go by some other name?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Not that I know of...maybe look into Enduramark or something like that.

[@jackveasey7925]

I’m a sheet Metal worker, do you think this would cut 24 gauge sheet Metal? It’s way less then 1mm thick usually just has a galvanized coating on it

[@jackveasey7925]

also do you think it could engrave initials in hand tools such as hammers, vice grips ect…?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I don't think you can cut metal at all with anything less than a fiber. You could mark those items using this process. Cheers

[@Dnasty1]

Hey nice vid. I was ordering a muffler and they were going to laser engrave it for me with my logo. I was wanting a more bronze look instead of very black like what up it machine made. Is this dependent on the source material I provide or the machine and the way they do it? Was wondering if I need to provide them a brown color logo vs my standard black one or does it matter?

[@ianlloyd100]

I've had a Ray5 10W for about a week. I got some Aluminium dog tag key rings. With no treatment, it does nothing, even with 100% and multiple passes... I colored it with a sharpie, and I get an image, its faint, and white, but definately vivsable................. Not sure if multiple passes helps though, as after the first pass, the color has gone, and we're back to bare metal........

[@BuildDadBuild]

Aluminum is difficult with a diode.

[@ianlloyd100]

@@BuildDadBuild yeah, I'm finding that from multiple videos..... 🤣. Might stick to wood!!

[@rivera2581]

Can I engrave/etch the lower of an AR-15 with the 10W xTool?

[@BuildDadBuild]

It kind of depends on what material is the lower made out of. Email me and we can discuss further. [e-mail]

[@douglashaggerty8002]

Plasti dip works well for engraving acrylic and glass and is easy to remove without screwing up the finish. I'm gonna try again with moly again to mark metal with the settings you put out. Its driving me to want CO2 more and more and I really don't wanna give up yet.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Good info! Cheers

[@diemo1ov954]

Thanks for the video. Have you ever come across lossing connection? If so, is there a way to continue from that las spot.(lightburn).

[@BuildDadBuild]

I haven’t. But in Lightburn if you go into preview you can find the area you stopped and start the burn from there.

[@yamileg2009]

Can you tell me if Xtool D1 can engrave on silver plated stainless steel wedding knife?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I have not been able to get it to mark any sort of silver. Cheers

[@yamileg2009]

Thank you

[@randybranson1009]

Another follower! What about using a hair drier in between Molly Coats to speed up dry time?

[@infernusifrit9348]

For aluminum first dip it in a 50/50 solution of water and lye for 1 thru 5 mins to remove the micro layer of oxidation common on raw aluminum. This will begin to bubble and produce some low heat. No bubbling then lean out your solution with a little water. Next rinse it or not. And rinse after the laser. Whatever you decide rinse it under water.Then try your laser. Or you can use an inline grinder and a medium grit smooth/clean abrasive drum or wheel. This leaves a smooth fine brushed finish. Then try your laser.

[@Doc-Holliday1851]

What do you mean when you say “mark”? Does the image come off?

[@BuildDadBuild]

No. It just doesn’t cut into (ie engrave) the metal.

[@macleancadman7412]

Thanks for your videos! What's the best way you've found to remove the dry moly? I'm using lacquer thinner but with the 3 coats of dry moly it takes a ton of thinner & rags to get everything off.

[@BuildDadBuild]

I just use laquer thinning. Never had any problems...

[@jeffreycanfora1091]

Just the video I was looking for. I have aluminum strips on hand that I wasn’t sure if I could do anything with. As an Ironworker and welder I like metals. In the video I noticed your waste grid, and labeled for the xTool’s table work space. Do you by chance make that waste board grid available for download?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Go that from @busterbeagle3d kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKvSfJp-ZdRsgNU Cheers

[@griffsimons4752]

I have a question for you. Can you mark die cast zinc? If so, what would be the process to coat if necessary, and/or what would be the best settings for the marking

[@BuildDadBuild]

Heating zinc puts off really bad fumes.

[@griffsimons4752]

Ok. So can the xtool engrave it? What would be a safer and sturdier option if marking metal cards

[@adamlambert1797]

Great video mate would it work on sockets and spanners

[@leslietompkins3461]

What do you do to contain the smoke from this unit? Do u have a filter set up near it? Or have it in a hood?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I have an exhaust fan blowing out the garage door. Cheers

[@Neomax25]

Ok, so a lil late to this party. But in case anyone is like me and came looking in the comments hoping for an answer to the lack of consistency burning steel. So I just tested the Vector/image theory on my 10W laser. I put a text word (vector) on the bottom and the word "Tesla" in the form of an image (JPG) at the top. I also rubbed my fingers all over the steel. Then I cleaned half with white spirit and ran the task. End result was both words, vector AND jpg image marked well on the steel. However, the half that was cleaned with spirit was massively better. Single solid image burn and no imperfections. The uncleaned half did mark well, but a vary varied burn and lacked consistency. I was running 100% power at 2mm per second. Currently running a second burn at 100% power, 5mm speed and all cleaned with white spirit first. Burning an image of a Chinese Dragon. Seems to be going well.

[@Signcutter]

Is it possible to change the red laser cross hair to a dot?

[@BuildDadBuild]

In the latest update, there is the ability to turn the crosshairs off (or maybe to a dot). If you're using Lightburn I think you can go in (in Laserbox) and turn the crosshairs off and use the fire laser button in Lighburn. If that's not clear, email me [e-mail] Cheers

[@andrewstern216]

In one of your later(?) videos you recommend duramark as a medium. Have you tried duramark on any of these metals?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I have only tried Enduramark on Stainless Steel

[@russwhitworth5820]

Can you use the xtool to mark pistol grips and mags

[@BuildDadBuild]

I think I actually addressed that in this video. Depends on the material. Cheers

[@huntingshooting8730]

I noticed your moly lube was coloured, does it still work with a clear molylube?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Honestly, I do not know.

[@am1manTravel]

Has anyone ever tried to engrave/etch a platter from an old computer hard disk drive? I've made clocks out of old hard drives but it would be nice to engrave/etch the hour numbers on the platter. Something for a future video???

[@allisonodonnell8062]

What would you use as a top coat?

[@BuildDadBuild]

The marking is permanent. So, nothing. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@aestheticrevolt6052]

Really love the video. The Dry Molly Lube is to prevent the laser from reflecting off of the metal and damaging itself?

[@BuildDadBuild]

No. It’s the transfer agent.

[@appleaddict24]

have you had any problems when engraving with the engrave having a halo or a doubling look to it?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I have not had any problems like that. All good in the hood! Cheers

[@DIYDudtoStud]

Is there any place that sells Quarter size Coin Blanks? Xtools d1 pro 20w? Any recommended web sites?

[@BuildDadBuild]

You can buy them on Amazon

[@DIYDudtoStud]

@@BuildDadBuild I looked but when getting into the comments they say not compatible with diode lasers. Do you have any links you can recommend?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Just Amazon. But I was using a fiber

[@lonewolfdesignsbylarry]

CRC dry moly lube can be bought at just about any parts store.

[@BuildDadBuild]

That's what I though. LOL Cheers

[@50plymouths]

I am very surprised with the brass using the dry moly lube on the 10 pass

[@GamerKid2023]

your videos are awsome thank you so much! about to do my first saw blade and its speed is set really low and its saying 2000min?? did you increase your speed by chance? Thanks again!

[@BuildDadBuild]

No. The speed is the same. That time estimate can be off by a pretty good margin. Or it could be the complexity of the design or a DPI setting. I would try a trial run on something else and see if you catch the cuprit.

[@barrythornton9947]

Getting stoked on how Diode lasers are performing now .... but the dummy in me wants to know , if a Diode laser cant etch metal , why do they give you Dog collar tags to put names on ? Or ... am I getting confused with etching and engraving ? Also , I would mainly like to work with foam core board ..... paper/card top and bottom sheet but foam center , is this one of the dont touch materials with a laser ?

[@BuildDadBuild]

It doesn't etch, it marks. And the coating on a stainless steel makes it easier to mark. And I'd have to know the material the foam is made out of. Check the MSDS and cross reference here: www.troteclaser.com/en-us/learn-support/faqs/unsuitable-materials-laser-processing/ Cheers

[@RCCAT336]

Hey newbie here can you use wd40 instead of the moly lube, thanks

[@BuildDadBuild]

I have no idea. You should try it.

[@RCCAT336]

Thanks I'll give it a try

[@1scottswanson]

I use Cermark metal marking for metals & cermark Ceramic & glass for the others

[@NagelHausForge]

Hey man! Love the videos! Super helpful! I am a knife maker and looking into lasers to etch/mark my logo and some other custom stuff my customers might want on their blades. Do you think this process would work for high carbon steel knives? I am currently looking at the xTool D1 Pro 20W package and curious what ya think! Thanks again!

[@BuildDadBuild]

You're probably looking at one of these. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6akkHtsbcSBnpI

[@robertjacobson1399]

Love your video. Maybe try preheating the aluminum. Run the same test and see if the aluminum temperature changes as the levels increase.

[@CrisAnderson27]

I haven't scrolled through the comments, but out of curiosity, have you tried sanding it or removing it with any other sort of abrasive (green scrubby, etc)?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Yes. I stands up surprisingly well.

[@CrisAnderson27]

@@BuildDadBuild awesome! I ordered some earlier this week...supposed to arrive today. I'm looking forward to trying it out!

[@mpcaz]

Are you going to add the 20w upgrade to your D1?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I sure am!

[@todddunford399]

I know this video is a couple months old but I was wondering if you found a solution to etching the aluminum? I have some challenge coins I'd like to try etching and I can't find any info on getting aluminum to etch. btw your video's are great man and very helpful.

[@BuildDadBuild]

As far as I know, you can't etch aluminum with a diode. Cheers

[@Build-and-Burn]

Are you cleaning the metal prior to coating with isopropyl alcohol? I have marked on some old titanium with fairly decent results (no dry-moly) with my Atomstack A5 Pro. Just getting into the Dry Moly for glass etching too!! Great video!

[@BuildDadBuild]

Yes I am. Cleaning it first, dry moly then mark. Cheers

[@Build-and-Burn]

@@BuildDadBuild I figured you were, just didn't hear it in the video. As always, good stuff!

[@purpleyams8738]

Is “marking” permanent on all metal using a diode?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I can’t verify “all metal” but if you are marking it, it’s permanent.

[@RocketCityGardener]

I wonder if the surface of your aluminum is wavy. Like the #10 potion is either closer or farther away from the laser. You'd have to flatten it with some sand paper on something really flat.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Its pretty friggin flat...

[@MegaDwsmith]

Cool vid!! seems to work pretty good wonder if the aluminum is too reflective to mark maybe

[@BuildDadBuild]

Could be! Cheers

[@brittanyi.548]

I love your videos! They are so informative, thank you! I'm getting ready to "mark" on about 100 dog tag necklaces using dry moly lube. Would you recommend using any sort of topcoat to finish them off?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I don’t think you need it. It should be on there pretty good. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@lymangerrish1913]

Okay I'm hooked I ordered the D1 yesterday and have been watching a bunch of your videos thanks for all the inspiration, this is my first laser so I'm curious about your safety glasses I need to order a pair are you using the FreeMascot OD 6+ 190nm-490nm? Maybe a video for newbies covering miscellaneous equipment one might need just getting started

[@BuildDadBuild]

These are mine. amzn.to/3NXMk5k Working on another noobie video soon. Cheers

[@tirey74]

Really nice video, what settings did you use on your d1?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I think I aired stainless steel settings in Laserbox

[@tirey74]

Did that mark well with the enduramark?

[@lynnstump8502]

How about chrome. I was asked about doing a harley gas cap

[@BuildDadBuild]

I would assume you’d need a transfer agent. The chrome is too shiny to do bare.

[@lynnstump8502]

@BuildDadBuild like the black dry moly lube

[@WoodRocksArt]

Hi! Awesome videos :) Have you tested how spray paint works?

[@BuildDadBuild]

On metal? No I have not. Cheers! Nick

[@RocketCityGardener]

I'd love to see you try spraying with some sort of resist. Etch the resist off. Then acid or electro-etch the revealed portion for a deeper etch. Might experiment with spray paint, electrical tape, etc.

[@BuildDadBuild]

I don't know what resist is...LOL

[@RocketCityGardener]

@@BuildDadBuild Here's a decent example using electricity and vinyl stickers like you would use on a cricut tool. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2qzgX-nj5ici6s

[@RocketCityGardener]

@@BuildDadBuild You can buy big sheets of vinyl that you could stick to the surface of the metal. So the question would be how the laser does at zapping vinyl.

[@RocketCityGardener]

@@BuildDadBuild A resist would be any material the stops the etching where it's applied. That material is removed, or not put down in the spots you want the chemical or electrical reaction to etch into the metal. Here's an example using spray paint that explains it well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYWZiYFpg8hsgcU

[@jessetutterrow4320]

@@RocketCityGardener be careful with vinyl it produces poisonous fumes

[@ggholliday23]

May have already been asked, but what about stone/brick? Have several bricks from an old school that was recently torn down. Three generations of my family attended, so I'd like to do something special with them.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Hey Greg! YOu can absolutely etch stone. Suggested settings: 5W 50% Power / 100% Speed / 1 pass 10W 30% power / 50% Speed / 1 pass Cheers

[@IMEEMADE]

With my limited knowledge of metallurgy, I have a theory on why the aluminum came out the way it did. Aluminum has a natural oxidation coating that has about a 3x higher melting point than the aluminum itself. This coating causes Al to be trickier to weld than steel because the torch needs to heat the surface hot enough to melt the oxidation, but not too hot to instantly melt the aluminum. To help counteract that, welders take a few extra steps before welding. Using a wire brush to remove the oxide layer prior to welding, cleaning the surface extra good with acetone and in some cases, pre-heating the Al since it's a really good heatsink. With that, I think the results may have been the process or "tool path". I suspect that by the time it got to lasering the "10" that the chunk of Al may have been warm enough from the previous operations and got enough heat in a short amount of time for the laser to be able to mark the aluminum before the oxide layer regenerated. Or at the very least, mark enough of the lowest oxide layer that it was able to "seal" the marking when it reoxidized. I'd be curious to see the results if you didn't use Moly lube and instead wire brush the surface (with a new brush so other contaminates don't embed into the surface) then a quick wipe with acetone, preheated the chunk (not like red hot, but relatively warm like a baked potato) and then lasered it? But that's just my 2 cents. As always - thanks for the laser content!

[@BuildDadBuild]

Interesting info...🤔 Cheers

[@jonathanshelton6514]

@@BuildDadBuild I work with a bunch of metallurgist and yep, sounds good to them! I just knew it'd mark the AL very well! Thanks for the video!

[@erinhiggins1441]

Love your videos you have been so helpful! Thank you! Can the Xtool D1 "mark" Nickel Plated Carbon Steel?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I do not think so....but doesn't hurt to try!

[@brentf9616]

Very cool man. Nice work

[@BuildDadBuild]

Thanks, Brent! Cheers

[@coffence]

Great video man! Feel like giving me pointers let me know.

[@batistachavesconstruction.2965]

i been having trouble withengraving on wood

[@BuildDadBuild]

slower speeds, higher power.

[@michaelmccourt8937]

Really enjoy your channel! Was wondering if the D1 can cut and engrave leather?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Absolutely! I did some leather in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXjZpayGbduoY9U Cheers

[@shoxdanger]

aluminum metal needs more heat also aluminum absorbs heat way more then metal thats why you dont see it on there

[@richardbelanger5291]

Maybe the different materials would react differently with different compounds. Such as aluminum reacts better with one, and brass reacts better with a different. Sounds like a good Dad science project.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Could be!

[@RoseKindred]

So, it is not really etching the metal, more like annealing it in the areas the laser hits? Interesting.

[@Raisinkain.In.Florida]

You rock Dad! Laser-on.... Thank you for being so real!!! 🔫

[@danchadwick1495]

The laser oxidizes the metal. Iron2 oxide is black. Similar with copper. Under the black on copper is red copper oxide.

[@kurtwm2010]

you and your friend could play catch with the saw blade. :)

[@MakerCuisine]

Wow that "marking" came out great

[@BuildDadBuild]

I looks pretty dope in person too. Cheers

[@colbyolsen6519]

Try spray paint on aluminum vs Molly. Aluminum was probably protected by the molly.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Thanks for the tip.

[@nabrup3]

I wonder how laser etching a rusted price of metal would work?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Dunno...you should check it out!

[@nabrup3]

@@BuildDadBuild once I get parts in to fix my setup I'll have to give it a shot.

[@mossfamily2000]

Great videos and very educational. Maybe I should leave this comment on a more recent video but I didn’t do it is what it is…I’m about to buy my first laser and I’m going to with the xtool d1. Hope I can make a little money with it. I have some really good ideas and hope it works out. But anyway thanks for all the videos and look forward to seeing new ones

[@BuildDadBuild]

Awesome! Make sure to use my promo code BDBXTOOL for 8% off Cheers!

[@dieselwilson9767]

Question... I do Cerakoting... Will this laser take off a coat of Cerakote?

[@BuildDadBuild]

I don't know. If you want to send me a sample piece or of cut or something that is Cerakoted I can run some tests. [e-mail] if you're interested Cneers

[@dirtychai]

Cool, I know the perfect industry for metal etching.

[@BuildDadBuild]

What industry is that? Cheers

[@MsHuud]

Excellent video! Sub'ed and looking forward to more great content! Q: Can this laser work on bone? Would love to see it work. Thanks and i need the Whiskey shirt, love it too!

[@BuildDadBuild]

Laser can absolutely work on bone. If you post expect PETA to panty up. Shirts available here: www.builddadbuild.com/store Cheers

[@forrestgumpv9049]

I have a XTOOL D1 10 WATT LASER. It will mark Stainless Steel very good with CRC Dry Graphite Lube for $12.0 a can. I spray 3 light coats, let dry between coats. ONE PASS, Laser power at 100 % and speed at 300 mm/minute. WORKS GREAT !! CHEAP TOO.

[@elizabethlorenzo7071]

I tried this but when I clean it off nothing is left behind any help on what I’m doing wrong would be appreciated

[@forrestgumpv9049]

@@elizabethlorenzo7071 You have to use 250 to 300 mm minute and 100 % power. Also 3 to 4 coats of CRC Dry Graphite Lube and let it dry ( 1 minute ) between coats.

[@earthlifeus1656]

Caffeine Makes everyone poop! You funny as heck! Just hard for someone with bad eyes to focus on with your movements in and out.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Cheers!

[@bhutch216]

Cermark is the spray you need for marking metal. It’s pricey but the can lasts forever

[@BuildDadBuild]

Yeah. I use Enduramark. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@mercedesvadilla3106]

I have been finding that Cermark won't stick lately; the markings rub off. I'm not sure if they changed the formulation or my laser is losing power. It is a 60W CO2 laser.

[@rgcustomcalls3655]

I wonder what I’m doing wrong. I can’t get mine to mark on anything worth a crap. Actually I had one successful marking on copper. Next time no luck. Any ideas anybody?

[@BuildDadBuild]

Diodes aren't really meant to mark metal (aside from stainless) without a transfer agent. Cheers

[@rgcustomcalls3655]

@@BuildDadBuild I was using molly lube just like you.

[@marcoss6212]

I found a reason why between the Steel vs Aluminum, I had the same issues while experimenting myself, although IMEE MADE is most likely correct, let me mention that Aluminum is a single natural metal as opposed to Steel which is an iron and carbon metal, the density of aluminum is higher due to a single component, Steel is a man made metal, its integrity is compromised regardless how is made.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Good to know! Cheers

[@batesjernigan1773]

I wonder how more coats of the Dry Moly Lube would affect the outcome. Thanks for making the video! Very enlightening!

[@marcoss6212]

@@batesjernigan1773 I have been using it for a bit and I do two somewhat light coats with very good results.

[@mossfamily2000]

You can buy dry moly lube at auto parts store. $16-ish. 😀

[@mikelauramcguire]

To answer the pew pew question a little bit better and save you some hassle. If your able to mark the material and it works is only one part. If you are making marks on a pew pew that is your own you are fine. If someone is sending you one for you to mark for them you need a FFL.

[@BuildDadBuild]

Yeah. I discovered this not to long ago. Not sure if I'm going down that path yet or not. Cheers

[@jasonmartin7137]

Keep the dry moly lube out of the bedroom. That's what the wet Molly lube is for. At least that's what Molly at DG's told me. lol.

[@BuildDadBuild]

🤣

[@timothyreynolds4086]

Rub some honey wax on the metal, then grind with a flap disk grinder wheel. It will purify the metal. Making it perfect to take heat…. Welders trick.

[@BuildDadBuild]

What is honey wax?

[@vdsmade]

Super👽👍

[@سجى-ث8ل]

Peace be upon you, I own this machine, but so far I have not been able to use it. Can you help me and if you need me to pay you money, I agree. I want to know the basics of the machine in order to apply

[@Mark-ws8cm]

Biz-Nitch lol

[@mujotagani1049]

the wife speaksssssss bahahaha

[@BuildDadBuild]

🤣🤣🤣