How to bleed your SRAM Code Break | CLLCTV Tech Tuesday Ep. 2

[@Icamas]

This worked better for me than the process of the official SRAM video. My Codes never felt better!

[@benjames2310]

How do u stop your codes from going into the bars once they get hot

[@ChewyWookiee]

@@benjames2310 sounds little you have air in the system

[@bartoszbukowski7330]

On Friday I bleed my Code's by "SRAM" way and the feeling was still not there so I looked for better solution. On Saturday I did "Aaron's" way and I'm blast! I'm owning you a biggg beeeeer for this priceless knowledge!

[@heymofo1981]

Doing them with a set of pads and a disc is the neatest trick I have got from this so much more precise

[@Mr75Axl]

i feel you put more oil in the system cuz piston are little bit out. i feel red pad are way too thick and you end up with lever to close to the bar..( sorry for my english im french)

[@heymofo1981]

@@Mr75Axl no problem, i use a thinner worn pad for the bleed and the use UBEREbikes white racing pad to ride with, works out great

[@80westcollective]

By far the best results I've gotten! Much better than following the SRAM or GMBN videos.

[@tukkitrocks79]

One million thanks to you for this video - I had MT7’s in my cart but thought I would give my Code RSC’s one more shot. Tried your method and my brakes feel like I want them to…amazing. Much better and more effective method here compared to the official SRAM procedure. Bravo

[@zomB-riders]

After years of bleeding my Shimano Saints no problem but never quite getting my Sram brakes so I'm 100% happy your tip on de-gassing the fluid before starting the process is genius! Just followed this vid to do my mates bleed and they've come up bang on. No wonder Troy trusts you with his steed Dude, Cheers!

[@Badlander1]

Hands down the best process for my Code R's after trying more than a few this week, Finally have the feel i was looking for. Legend cheers mate!

[@jawzzy3]

A video on cleaning/resetting pistons and what to do if you have lazy pistons would be great... This is the biggest issue I've been having with my codes lately... The pistons protrude from one side way more than the other, making it tough to set the caliper position and avoid rubbing.

[@qwertyiscoolmungel]

check out gmbn henrys brake hacks video, he use zip tie to add to the piston and then cleans the piston with cotton bud and alcohol, after wheel install he then uses screwdriver between the pad and caliper to push the more active caliper pistons back so that the slower ones have a bit of a head start!

[@bradearl16]

Lucky I had my cup of tea, made the job so much easier, thanks Aaron!

[@yanisbougherara3573]

Nailed it bro!! Massive THX

[@marcinbalcer1772]

this is old style of bleeding avids! i lovet it!

[@NerdsonDirtMTB]

This is fantastic, I can never get Sram brakes to feel as good as my Shimanos do. I'm hoping the extra steps you showed us today will do the trick.

[@retrofred666]

Glad I found this video. It's actually better then the way Sram says to do it. Going to bleed my Code R brakes with this procedure and hopefully get the results as you do on Troy's bike.

[@tasso478]

I think that the trick to perfectly bleed these brakes is to use its technique instead of using SRAM bleed block. By using his technique the pistons stay a little bit out, and this allows you to put more fluid in the system and have a better bite

[@MTBJOEARNESON]

Wow what a difference this makes compared to the manufactures video!!

[@josephjohn6078]

Best video I have seen so far. 👍 thank you

[@MrAidenCrocker]

Great video, thanks for putting this together!

[@torreyhiker9137]

Hiya Aaron, in this video you prefer using bleed pads and rotor ( lend?) tool instead of the bleed block. You do great work and I would like to know why you’ve made this choice. Cheers 🍻

[@paulstewart870]

Thank you for the video Troy . Clearly and well explained Video and my brakes are now working perfectly .

[@clashcityrocker1962]

Best system yet. Thanks

[@Roaming50]

Very interesting bleed procedure. It's opposite and quite different from the SRAM version. I'm going to make a cup of tea now and then work on mine...

[@consuminglight]

Just dropping this comment from emtbforums which helped my spongy-ness and the lever pulling into my fingers after countless attempts of bleeding. "The solution for me, as mentioned elsewhere in the answers hence this upvote, was to bleed per the procedure, put everything back together and then (carefully) pressurize from the caliper end - keeping the pressure on via the syringe while closing the bleeding edge port. This worked a treat and the brakes are perfect now. Simple when you think about it - pressurize at the caliper with the rotor and pads in, not the lever but be really really careful not to contaminate your pads." To minimize contamination, I wrapped my caliper and rotor in plastic food wrap and then once more with a paper towel. Punched a hole to the bleed edge and went from there. Also after following this, to make my pads and rotor bite better (I think they may have been a little contaminated from cleaning products) I soaked the pads in isopropyl alcohol for a few minutes, took them out and lit them on fire with a lighter. Then once the alcohol had burnt off, I stuck the pads in a vice and hit them with a blow torch for a couple minutes. let them cool, wiped down the rotor with more isopropyl alcohol and then from there put it all together. My back break is feeling great now. Hope this helps those out there with average feeling brakes. Also, the levers may weep a tad around the seals and the bleed hole, but just wipe it away until it resides after a bit of riding.

[@antonshtohryn8285]

Very thankful for this video!!!! You helped me a lot, I’ve never felt those good brakes)

[@davidmoody2436]

Awesome video works a treat!

[@robtravia5708]

Such a great tutorial, easy to understand and follow with simple steps and explaining the processes involved! Well done and keep them coming

[@ShakaLakaMTB]

Amazing! Worked flawlessly!

[@naerz9749]

I do this for my maven, really cool process Just quick questions, it seems u put the contact point all the way in ? Does tightening the bleeding edge by hand with the syringe enough ?

[@alfsdungeons]

hnnggg that last spin no rub. Sadly, that is never the case for myself!

[@realmcerono]

Basically this is the way Avid (bought by Sram) did it. The old avid video is still online ("how to bleed avid elixir brakes") including the degasing, pulled back lever and all 😊

[@MultiMarafado]

This method works perfect on SRAM DB5 since they dont have contact point adjustment. Folowing SRAM oficial video ends with lever almost hiting the handle bar.

[@Only-one-life-68]

Quality review Thanks a bunch from 🇬🇧

[@golddigger9762]

Straight forward Vid! Thanks a heap! Same goes for the rear?

[@cjones7692ify]

Creating the vacuum removed like 1000x more air for me

[@Olzone2]

Great video, thanks man :-) i have one small problem and that is that the break pistons do not seem to extend properly on my front breaks. Any advice on how to service or tune them up? (bike is Canyon spectral , sram guide rs) cheers /D

[@shannonmeehan]

Hi bro, What do you use to clean the rotors? Great video thanks.

[@petesahad3028]

It actually makes a difference 👀

[@wesleyhartt]

does this also apply if im just installing the break

[@mtbtelly5522]

Killer vid 👌🏽

[@andrejsavarin7885]

What does on the contact all the way out mean , opposite the arrow or in the direction of the arrow?

[@jakejoevenazzo1478]

Opposite of the arrow, so when you pull the breaks it should be the closest to an instant bite point as they go

[@Shauny808]

@@jakejoevenazzo1478 The way he was turning it in the video was in the direction of the arrow.

[@jordimeyer3247]

So which direction is the correct one?

[@SwishSwushPow]

I would love to know this as well 😅

[@alfonsozepeda1]

you want to get the piston fully open ( opposite direction ), so when you close the contact point (same direction) it creates pressure and breaks will get nice

[@mfa81]

any reason you prefer to start at the caliper vs sram instructions to start at the lever? I’m thinking this method somehow get you some benefits compared to sram usual instructions

[@jakejoevenazzo1478]

I am going to guess that it’s because air bubbles rise upwards so pushing the fluid in that direction would be optimal

[@oprangler]

Are your bleed pads the thickness of a new set of pads or are they worn? I find using the bleed block I get too much lever throw. Also, do you wind the contact adjust in the direction of the arrow before bleeding or in the opposite direction? SRAM says wind in the opposite direction but that leaves no room to reduce throw after the bleed process.

[@CanyonBicycles]

Worn brake pads with a segment of a brake disc are used here. Alternatively, the bleed block from Sram can be used. The Bleedgate is opened with a half turn counterclockwise, as Sram recommends.

[@tasso478]

@@CanyonBicycles hi, the question was not related to the bleed gate or "bleeding edge". It was related to the contact point adjustment. In the video, you said all the way out, so, in the opposite direction of the arrow.

[@robertocalvo934]

​@@tasso478 I have the same problem, if I open the throw all the way against the arrow I get too much throw and I can't correct it since I'm at the end of it. Can anyone help me? This is driving me mad

[@tasso478]

@@robertocalvo934 I can confirm you that you can do the bleed in whatever position of the contact point adjustment and you will not feel any difference at the end. If you have some problems is because you are not performing a good bleed. Sticky pistons, not aligned pistons, lack of fluid, some air trapped somewhere. These could be all problems.

[@retrobling6464]

@@tasso478 I feel it helps to reduce the throw of the rear if you leave the contact point half way in during the bleed. This has helped me get the same throw for front and rear. Lever throw tends to be bigger and feel a little bit spongier for the rear, for whatever reason..

[@craigmoran5238]

I have just tried bleeding my brakes following the SRAM video and it didn't work at all… Hopefullly this method will work for me

[@rockhopper70]

Seems odd not to push the pistons fully home and to completely fill a system with used pads, hence the pistons out. The next time new pads are needed, which will be thicker, they simply wont fit as there would be inadequate space between the pistons and no spare capacity in the oil system to allow the pistons to retract.

[@micgal8449]

I tried it excatly like that and it worked perfect great video thank you. How do you bed in new brake pads? Is there any secret you can tell us? Can you also produce a video about that topic?

[@jooncash8844]

It’s very easy, sprint down the street and ease on the brakes so you slow down but don’t fully stop, do this 10 - 15 times and you’ll be good

[@fetB]

9:00 how do you make sure you're not pumping air back in? Is there some air vent in the siringe?

[@arsenioberruga8678]

the air floats to the top and the liquid comes out of the siringe from the bottom

[@fetB]

@@arsenioberruga8678 yea, figured it out. Fluid is heavier after all. Dont know why it didnt click 4 months ago, lol Appreciate the reply, though

[@alexkrause9041]

He said he turn the contact in adjuster all The way out before bleeding The brakes but actually Turns it all The way in. After The bleeding He Said turn it in but He turns it out. Im a bit confused. Can anybody tell me whats right?

[@daimlerbermudo2797]

Do what u saw not what u heard

[@themagicillusions]

I’ve heard that if you leave that o-ring or a zip tie on the grip to pull on the brake overnight it will get rid of any little bubbles through the small vent on the lever is this true? Is it something you would recommend doing or will it seize the piston inside the lever?

[@tonymedina8869]

Don't quote me on this but I think this only works with Shimano brakes.

[@themagicillusions]

I won’t quote you on this because it’s not true😜

[@jooncash8844]

Yes it brings the bubbles to the stop of the reservoir and helps clean the system of air but you have to do this while the wheel is still in

[@boggybigpants9462]

I do this on my mx bike and it works 👍

[@danianth]

@Phil it won't. But it allows you to verify that the system doesn't leak...

[@bonxiegizmo]

Jeez… not new to bike building but just not able to get any result with my RSC brakes

[@ChrisPinnell]

Just done bleeds today and with my codes I always get loads of fluid ouze out of lever port when I remove syringe, so lose some pressure. No matter what I try to avoid it. My previous guides were not an issue, nor any shimano brakes I bleed. Am I missing something?

[@ridemx323]

If you’re charging the lever with fluid at the end of the process, there will be excess fluid escape. The lever doesn’t hold much fluid in the reservoir. If you’re brakes still feel shit after you bleed, try vacuuming the caliper first. Leave the lever bleed screw installed. Don’t use the sram bleed block in the caliper. Pushing the pistons all the way in can trap air between the piston and caliper housing. I use a pair of pads that have about half life left as a bleed block W/O the return spring. Hold the pads in place and squeeze the lever until the pistons hold the pads in place tightly. Attach the caliper syringe, open the system and push fluid into the caliper. Then vacuum out. Repeat until little or no bubbles present. Close the caliper side. Then perform the regular system bleed. Finish with the lever charge doing the same vacuum procedure as with the caliper. Push fluid in, don’t force. Vacuum out and repeat until little or no bubbles. Then charge the lever slowly until you barely feel pressure in the syringe. SLOWLY remove the syringe, removing too quickly can create a vacuum. Wipe off the bleed port, if there’s fluid sitting level with the port hole, you can trap air as you insert the screw.

[@tasso478]

@@ridemx323 it is not a problem if the fluid comes out from the lever. Air in the reservoir is not a problem. The procedure to pressurize the system is to pressurize the oil inside the cable.

[@JoeSlabo]

@@ridemx323 If you are changing out the pads I assume you could use the old pads for the caliper vacuum. Would you then stick in the pad spreader tool to make room for the new pads after you vacuum out the caliper but before you do the regular system bleed? Or will there still be enough room to get the new pads in?

[@wanderer2246]

I see that through "degassing" author just kept mixing fluid with air, and air can have moisture. What is the point of doing this? Is somebody in automotive service or in moto service doing the same?

[@goodtimesmtb]

Don't you loose pressure once you undo the syringe off the lever? What's causing them to not loose any pressure and feel good? I had to push pressure from the caliper side just to haves good brake feel.

[@BasicBodThor]

I think the main difference (I've done what you noted) is using a bleed block vs old pads+rotor. My understanding is that it isn't a question of adding "pressure" to the system as a whole , but rather a question of how much fluid is in the system overall. If you have a bleed block, the pistons are pushed all the way into the caliper and you get less volume of fluid. With the method in the video, the pistons are already a bit out from the caliper meaning that there is a bit more room for fluid. Pushing pressure from the caliper effectively adds a bit more fluid into the system by virtue of "pressurizing" the system which would move the pistons out slightly once the bleed block is removed. At least that's my theory haha

[@calebsiegler5471]

Where on earth can I get that set of Allen keys? Seriously. Never seen anything like that

[@MrFeazel]

They look like Beta 951 t handles. I have some, they are very nice to use.

[@ridemx323]

SPOT ON! The SRAM bleed video garbage. Pushing the pistons all the way in with the bleed block traps air in the caliper behind the pistons. Using fairly unused pads pinched together in the caliper as a bleed block, with no return spring, allows the pistons to create space for the trapped air to escape during bleed. Attach the syringe to the caliper and vacuum the fluid out of the caliper, and push back in. Repeated until no bubbles. Then attach lever syringe and perform the bleed through the entire system. Close the caliper and perform the vacuum bleed on the lever.

[@tuggers1000]

Any tips on reducing lever throw on guide re? They have no contact poor adjustment. And my levers have a little more throw than I would like.

[@ChewyWookiee]

Buy some "deslackinators". Awesome little product.

[@GamingKillerBee]

I saw it here and in the official SRAM bleed video ... why do you need to put your contact adjustment all the way out? For me personally, I would like to have my contact out as much as possible, so if you bleed it with contact all the way out, the only adjustment you can then make is to move contact more in after you've done bleeding the brakes. Wouldn't it make sense to start with the contact adjustment all the way in, bleed the brakes and then you are able to adjust contact more to out as your brakes are getting worn down with time?

[@tasso478]

I asked myself this question multiple times. The answer is that no matter how you set the contact point adjustment before bleeding. I tried many configurations and it does not change anything.

[@mtba102]

@@tasso478 same. I even bled front in and rear out one time to compare, and the were still about even on both sides when I was done. I don’t think it makes a difference

[@hughs8591]

I thought the same thing. I think its the pistons being partly pushed out during the bleed process that makes the throw much shorter when the job is done. I found that out by accident while bleeding some code r brakes with a thinner bleed block by mistake once. I suspect the contact point adjust only adjusts how much the piston has to move before the fill port between it and the reservoir closes off and the pistons start moving.

[@brokenlegz]

Seems weird Troy runs his front brake on the left.

[@jakejoevenazzo1478]

Idk about you but everyone here in Canada does

[@brokenlegz]

Seems most Australians run it moto style and troys from Adelaide so that’s why I thought it’s weird.

[@jakejoevenazzo1478]

@@brokenlegz makes sense, I almost want to swap my breaks over one day to see how weird it is 😂

[@brokenlegz]

I’d crash. Immediately. Lol.

[@franticfrancis9710]

I’m British so my front brake is on the right

[@teemu3370]

It seems there was a time constraint or something since there was a huge need to rush everything

[@willpope4192]

what allen keys are they?

[@jakejoevenazzo1478]

Those are the fancy park tool ones with the end but that has the twisted head to remove rounded bolts! At least that’s my guess

[@wanderer2246]

Why everyone demonstrating a way which keeps in mind having a stand? Do you know if everyone has a stand? I don't think so. For those who don't have a stand, you don't need to remove a wheel, dot fluid is easy removable with water. And probably you anyway should degrease your rotors sometimes, so wipe with alcohol after, and that's all.

[@mtnmnkymilitia]

Brakes, not breaks

[@blackdevil7183]

So... You make sram brakes fell like shimano

[@hummer694life]

SRAM doesn't have the wandering bite point and boiling point is higher with DOT fluid.

[@NONO-hz4vo]

Try Formula's. They bite so fast and are firmer than anything else I have used or played with in the bike shops. I found them by accident when they were on sale, and have been pleasantly surprised.

[@Chromedome-ss6mg]

You never tightened the bleed port on the caliper, you just finger tightened it with the tool. It needs to be tighter than finger tight, just saying, lol

[@mauort6870]

He mentions it when he puts the pads. He says pin, clip, bleeding edge

[@slandrews93]

@@mauort6870 aye but doing it by the book you're supposed to nip up the bleed port with a 4mm Allen key after removing the bleeding edge tool (even after closing off the bleeding edge thing)

[@mauort6870]

@@slandrews93 ahhh i see

[@peterstecks7660]

@@mauort6870 I think when he said pin, clip, bleeding edge - I think he meant the rubber grommet to cover the 4mm Allen Screw?