Monday Mod Tips - Rapidstrike Wiring Guide

Finally...the vaunted 3-switch Rapidstrike Wiring Diagram. I hope this helps.
Flywheel Assembly:
• Monday Mod Tips - Epis...
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CaptainXavier
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Chaylo Laurino
P.O. Box 111515
Tacoma, Wa 98411
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Alterations: spliced.

[@tyrone3010]

What a great explanation. I like the new way of demonstrating wiring. I have no idea what the inside of a rapidstrike looks like, but I'm sure this will help clear the confusion.

[@drflux]

Such a valuable video! Thank you for making this.

[@ben_nerf_lego]

Hello flux

[@helpdeskconfessions]

Tried doing this, accidentally set my car on fire. I'm not in my garage.

[@CaptainXavier]

Never solder while driving. Rookie mistake really... ;P

[@whatstdiggn]

No smoking in the batteries, armory or on the powder deck. I thought you were an able bodiedc eaman

[@grimmgaming156]

Very helpful, considering one of my Rapidstrikes died, the flywheels wouldn't spin but the pusher arm actuated fine. Upon further investigation DEEP inside and under the stock cage I found one of the stock wires had just fallen off, by that point I was past the point of no return, so now I've gutted it, stuck in Fang Revampeds for the flywheel motors in a 41.5mm cage with Bulldog flywheels and a Honeybadger pusher. I was going to pay someone as a commission to make for me so I could use a 2S LiPo. After watching this guide a few times, I realised I can do it myself, all I needed were some machine screws. This is a great video, breaking things down, making it easy to understand. Thank you Chaylo!

[@Bwood1151982]

I just used this to rewire my rapidstrike! I would absolutely love to see this done for a regulator!

[@johnconnorstopskynet]

You are the man dude. The wiring diagrams halfway made sense but I hadn't looked at one since like 8th grade (20 years ago) this visual representation and explanation made it actually make sense and now I can correlate what you showed me into how to read the diagram. Thanks.

[@Hexsyn]

The only bummer thing about this is that, when running this setup on my full-auto rayven, if I happen to let my finger off the rev trigger and main trigger at just the right moment to catch the pusher still extended, it won't return because the NO of the rev switch is the only source of positive connection to the rest of the circuit. Unless I'm missing something, I don't think there is a way around this slight issue. I'm guessing this isn't as much of a problem with the rapidstrike because of the whole scotch-yoke, gears, and momentum potentially bringing the pusher back to rest. Also, fixing this problem is just a matter of changing my muscle memory to always keep the rev trigger pressed a little bit after I release the firing trigger, but I still wanted to share this information in case anybody else ran into the issue and wasn't sure what was going on :)

[@CaptainXavier]

...good lord...you are correct! All you would have to do to correct this is to connect the Return Switch NC directly to the Battery POS instead of connecting it of the Rev Switch COM circuit. That way the Return Switch always has power not matter the position of the other switches. Thank you for pointing this out, I will have to redo this video to correct that error!

[@Hexsyn]

@@CaptainXavier You're totally right on the fix.. I could swear I worked through that exact option on paper when looking for a fix and ended up with a short, but now that I'm looking at it again, it seems to check out, so I must have mixed something up earlier!

[@vastneon]

Micah Miller Not sure what Captain means in his correction but is that also for Rapidstrikes?

[@avocadopeel7536]

Love this video, used this wiring for my minimized rapidstrike, works great with the cycle control! Thanks so much!

[@egg_timer]

I used this method to rewire one of these knock-off auto-Stryfes from Amazon. The PCB controlling the "select fire" is limited to 4V and also has a terrible ROF. Amazingly the auto-pusher has a spot for a 1A return switch. It was relatively easy to remove the PCB and put in new switches.

[@worm_bt]

5 years later this is still an awesome guide, thank you. I've fixed numerous rapidstrike, made an auto-stryfe with 3d printed kit and now I'm assembling Woozi using this diagram!

[@jimlime4415]

This is the best wiring guide for a 3 switch rapidstrike

[@Athiel0]

This is an amazingly helpful video. I can't thank you enough for making it.

[@Fastskull]

Recently found out that I lost my rapidstrike :/ still gonna watch, you're a good teacher.

[@thomaspenny2977]

i'm not good enough to make any kind of wire mods. But you are, you are a actual master of nerf. Congrats on taking time and research to make awesome videos like this.

[@cjthaboss]

bought a rapidstrike yesterday... happy to see this vid. keep up the good work!!!

[@yohanzo]

Dude... I just found a rapidstrike at goodwill. This is super helpful. Thanks!

[@AliceAXP]

Thank you! I took apart rapidstrike to modify it, but something happened and now I can't fix it then but now this should help.

[@sarganis2576]

This is very helpful! I will definitely use this to decide how to wire a full auto Stryfe.

[@SpyderGiant]

This made requiring my rapidstrike a breeze. Thank you so much for this vid.

[@ROXYshark]

Thanks, I am going to make an XP 180 Rapidstrike for Endwar. I was going to do it the simple way, but this one seems far better.

[@chrissoto7840]

That was really helpful, thank you. I'm going to try it on my next blaster...

[@nerfturfbattle180]

Love the mod tip videos. Keep up the great work.

[@nathanburghard2500]

love your videos keep it up :)

[@luckyskaven13]

Very well described, and this teaching set is awesome

[@atoaster5694]

Just in time too, I just started wiring my first rapidstrike today, though I'm doing a 2 switch setup due to the speed of the pusher motor

[@Ilikedahrice]

Thanks for this video. I got a cheap terrascout that doesnt drive. If I cannot fix it ill convert it to a normal blaster.

[@RaNd0Mk1D8o3I]

Great video cap, and I've realized that this is also the rewire method needed in the Mega Mastidon, because it's design is very similar. However, I'm having a small bit of an issue, mostly just run off from the motors? Maybe? When the firing trigger is pressed after the rev trigger is released, it still keeps going until the motors no longer have any power left. Would putting motor brakes on them solve that issue?

[@CaptainXavier]

My guess, and I could be wrong, is that the flywheel motors are essentially acting like generators and providing power to the pusher motor. Motor breaking might solve that. Alternatively...just don't press the fire trigger when you are not pressing rev. There is a reason the stock blaster has locks to physically prevent that.

[@explodinpunkins]

superb video, extremely helpful, thank you so much🤩

[@TinyToastandJam]

What a legend. Thanks.

[@firefreak5117]

You should create an arctic loadout series. Maybe reskin with whiteout digital camo. Also your videos are really cool.

[@TheSAMTHOO]

this was excellent, thanks Cap X.

[@aboringuy]

Revisiting this video after a while for an auto-stryfe. Was wondering whether I should use this diagram or the 2-switch diagram.

[@CaptainXavier]

Depends on the kit. You can use either.

[@aboringuy]

@@CaptainXavier Ok, thanks.

[@StoshaGovnoZad]

Thx. Still useful and most clear explanation!

[@bradyca04]

Keep up the good work cap'n

[@KoboldPaladin]

Make rail mounted sling points

[@michaelstellitano2810]

Beautiful

[@dustinwagner2234]

The Nerf Firefly you should you should see if it can fit a k-26

[@CaptainXavier]

Again? Was doing it once not enough?

[@super_sarge1591]

Dang it, he’s my commanding officer. Better listen to these mod tips. If I understand them.

[@RumRunnerO1]

This video is great! Thank you very much!

[@edward463]

Great video! Can I request you make a video with live center like this one, but does not include the flywheel portion (flywheels and rev trigger). I'm planning on adding a brushless kit to this.

[@CaptainXavier]

What does "live center" mean?

[@edward463]

it's when the pusher arm returns to the back after each trigger pull. Dead center is when the pusher arm doesn't have a return switch so it just stops where-ever

[@CaptainXavier]

Ok. Well to isolate the pusher circuit from the rev circuit the only change is that Battery POS goes directly to Trigger Switch NO.

[@edward463]

Thanks Captain!

[@geekmonkey895]

Just a suggestion... How about a PWM wired in to control ROF? It would be considerably easier than programming an Arduino.

[@DarthKross]

" Ü " Kilroy was here

[@randomuslygenerator1518]

Quick question captain, what are the brands of the microswitches? I want to ensure that I do not use an older model, thus being confused why it does not look familiar in YT videos.

[@CaptainXavier]

I custom made my own switches using onrom switches.

[@davidb.cloutier7696]

Hey capt first of all thanks for all the knowledge you're sharing on your channel the NIC appreciate for shure. I wonder what would be the difference in your diagram if we add a mosfet and an on-off killswitch ?

[@CaptainXavier]

If you are using a SUID or OutOfDarts MOSFET board (which you should) it is absurdly simple. Battery power to the input leads, flywheel assembly to output leads, rev switch to one of the single ports, kill switch to the other signal port. Done. Almost takes the fun out of it honestly...

[@davidb.cloutier7696]

@@CaptainXavier Thanks for the quick answer. I still use standard mosfet but I may will use the OoD boards soon.

[@TheG00DY3AR]

@@CaptainXavier does using an ood mosfet still allow you to keep motor breaking on the pusher motor in high rate of fire applications?

[@CaptainXavier]

@@TheG00DY3AR if the mosfet only turns on the flywheels, yes. But Mosfets do not allow motor breaking that I am aware of. There is probably a way to do it but Indon't know it

[@TheG00DY3AR]

@@CaptainXavier and all i would do is wire the leads to the rev switch? would i need to put particular leads to certain channels and would i have to bypass the the negative from the the battery to the rev and rev to trigger in order to not fry the switch when using a higher volt battery? sorry for all the questions

[@sadboisonly1004]

This may be a dumb question, but is a higher torque pusher motor better for more reliable braking when your ROF exceeds like 10 dps?

[@theproud77]

Really helpful👍🏼

[@EXTREMERC416]

What bugs me is the rev trigger who has to be another big switch and not an on off switch

[@JoseLopez-ec8po]

this really helped me

[@89thedawg]

I understand the wiring diagram... mostly. My question is with 2 wires coming from the negative battery post,how would this work with a lipo and xt60 connector? Im unsure if you can run 2 seperate wires from the neg xt60?or from the pusher switch n.o., run one wire to the neg motors and the 2nd to the neg battery post?

[@CaptainXavier]

Either. It can be one long circuit of multiple.

[@logansoleas277]

Hey Xavier I need your help could you explain the exact length for the Magnus shot gun or could re make the video please and thanks

[@SleepLessThan3]

And to follow this up, there is the omega rapidstrike :D

[@grahamturner2640]

I dare you to do a Stampede wiring guide.

[@CaptainXavier]

I already did. It is the same as the Hyperfire Diagram I did last week.

[@jaymorrison2419]

I mean, its spring powered, so its got a weirdly simple wire loop.

[@grahamturner2640]

Captain Xavier I was wondering because I might want to make a traditional springer a motorized (full auto) springer. Also, how does the Hyperfire wiring guide apply to motorized springers?

[@randomuslygenerator1518]

Captain how do you make sure that the pusher switch is mounted in a place that ensures that the pusher can turn it off and on?

[@CaptainXavier]

Trial and error.

[@sorjo8019]

Really cool and helpful video, but i sadly don't know what "COM", "NO" or "NC" means. Could anyone tell me what that is since I don't want to burn my house. Also where do you get cheap IMR batteries? :)

[@CaptainXavier]

If only I have a video explaining in great detail what those mean... kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWPOdpKobJabr7M

[@sorjo8019]

@@CaptainXavier Well, thank you. [Meh, it's kinda emberassing but Ok]

[@joeofdoom]

I used all omron switches to do mine they didnt want to fit but I got them in there. I prob should have just bought a drop in kit as im only using Mieshel 2.0's but I didnt just want to buy a kit and not really do the modding work.

[@xirensixseo]

What's vcc rating in this circuit? I'm trained with 5v trainer sets but I have no actual practical work so I'm not familiar with the voltage ratings on each and every one of those components

[@tcestare4550]

I was wondering if you can I want to know if rocket launchers because I don’t not

[@CaptainXavier]

...what?

[@tcestare4550]

Captain Xavier Accidentally sent you that sorry

[@jimmmyjohns2853]

3:18 for the start of the guide

[@Hexsyn]

So forgive my ignorance... I'm planning on re-wiring a nitron and it seems like having this three switch setup is more advisable compared to wiring it like a hyperfire. That said, I've seen mention of "dead center" and "live center" wiring setups for a 3 trigger blaster, so which of those have you demonstrated here? (added edit: I realized that I would have to slightly alter the circuit for the nitron because I believe the "resting state" of the return switch would be open rather than closed, given how the little disk mechanism of the nitron works. If I'm understanding correctly, the only difference this would make is that all of the connections to the NO and NC on the return switch would have to be swapped around... I think)

[@CaptainXavier]

I believe it is what is called "live center." Meaning that the trigger switch does not have power unless the Rev switch is pulled.

[@Hexsyn]

Follow-up sanity check question, if you'll indulge me. For any point that you have multiple connections to one terminal, you would just use a wire splice in real life right? I realize that the kit doesn't really allow wire splices. So, for example, in a real rapdistrike, your negative wire coming from the battery tray would have 2 splice points, which is to say 3 pathways--one ending at the negative terminal on the battery, one ending at the NO of the return switch, and one ending negative terminal of the pusher motor, rather than having two separate wires soldered to the negative battery terminal and at the NO of the return switch, correct? Just wanted to make sure my thought process isn't flawed.

[@CaptainXavier]

@@Hexsyn yes. You can either have multiple wires coming off and going to each negative terminal OR a single wire that links them all OR a combination of both.

[@CaptainXavier]

Typically people daisy chain the negative because it saves wire.

[@Hexsyn]

Thanks so much for the clarification! Even besides saving wire, I wanted to do it so that I wouldn't have to deal with risking de-soldering one connection when soldering a new one when there are more than 2 objects involved at one joint, you know?

[@pianotunesbymichael3168]

Where did you buy the "circuit", and where do you get the "wires" ? *I wanna buy it too :)

[@CaptainXavier]

I didn't. It was given toe by the Nerf Curator. It is called Snap Circuits. Available online.

[@pianotunesbymichael3168]

@@CaptainXavier ok, thanks

[@nbricks5973]

Your awesome!

[@atrafficcone2191]

How would you wire one of these without the flywheel assembly and the rev switch? I have plans for a full auto helios... heh...

[@CaptainXavier]

Battery POS to Trigger Switch NO

[@atrafficcone2191]

Thanks! :D

[@demogeymidge2997]

Could you do the modulus next?

[@CaptainXavier]

The Modulus is the same as the Stryfe, which I already did.

[@aliventperson]

If you don’t have a pusher return switch, is it just the same without having the switch?

[@CaptainXavier]

Not quite. If you don't have/want a pusher return switch, use the Hyperfire wiring instead.

[@ugatobekittenme]

So does the third switch actually contact the pusher arm and the pusher arm itself activate the switch when it returns? Like do you have to cut into the pusher arm mech casing for the switch arm to be placed carefully into? I'm confused lol

[@CaptainXavier]

...this is the wiring in a stock Rapidstrike. There is normally 3 switches.

[@ugatobekittenme]

Captain Xavier oh jeez, maybe I was just too quick ripping out the stock wiring kit and didn't pay attention

[@jacobrobles7109]

And I thought 2 switch rapidstrikes were complicated

[@royalsempire1757]

If i dual jolts. What would be the best spring upgrade that isn't entirely expensive

[@CaptainXavier]

I believe the tek-6 spring works well. Those are pretty cheap and can usually be found at Goodwill.

[@royalsempire1757]

Also dose ace hardware sell k26

[@CaptainXavier]

No. The best place to get K26 is Out of Darts's Etsy shop.

[@royalsempire1757]

Oh ok

[@punnished5479]

How do you incorporate the third switch when modding the blaster? Where would it be placed in the blaster?

[@CaptainXavier]

...the same place the stock one was...

[@punnished5479]

Thank you sir

[@AABCDXX]

dear Xavier , can you do a mod where you can slam fire on a retaliator or a recon mk2?

[@CaptainXavier]

Yeah, there is a kit for that on Etsy.

[@AABCDXX]

one more question, does the retaliator have the same mechanisms as the recon mk2 ?

[@danieltaylor5584]

the real question is what does the wiring diagram look like when using a mosfet

[@CaptainXavier]

Depends on how you set it up. There are multiples ways to set it up with MOSFETs.

[@danieltaylor5584]

@@CaptainXavier if I was using mtb neo hellcats i would need a mosfet with the rev switch but what about the rhino pusher motor, would i need a mosfet for the pusher switches? and if so how would you wire it up? I found a nice circuit diagram on reddit for just the rev switch i'm just curious how it would work for the other two switches.

[@CaptainXavier]

First of all, with proper high amp switches you do not need MOSFETs at all. You certainly don't need them for a single rhino. I am actually not sure how you would do two switch pusher setup with MOSFETs. I know it is possible but it is complicated because MOSFETs are ON/OFF and the two switch setup requires NO/NC/COM to work.

[@danieltaylor5584]

@@CaptainXavier very helpful, thank you

[@Mr-vi1up]

How could I wire this so the pusher arm ends in the outward position?

[@CaptainXavier]

You would just have to re-position the Return Switch so it get pushed with the pusher arm is forward.

[@Mr-vi1up]

Thanks i'll do that. Also would you consider showing how to add a pwm? I saw you had one on the minigun. Thanks

[@jameysmart]

How do you distinguish between the positive and negative on the pusher motor?

[@CaptainXavier]

Theoretically it shouldn't matter. I think the pusher gear box is universal. But to be safe, test it. Hook a battery to it and see what happens.

[@jameysmart]

@@CaptainXavier thank you! I hooked up a battery and it does the same thing with the battery turned either direction. Assume that means I can wire it either way...correct?

[@CaptainXavier]

@@jameysmart yup

[@jameysmart]

@@CaptainXavier let’s say I got it all wired up and when I pull the rev trigger (not even the main trigger) it starts to fire and won’t stop until I unplug the battery. If that happened to one of your novice fans where would you advise they begin troubleshooting?

[@CaptainXavier]

@@jameysmart well, you obviously wired something wrong. Somewhere the circuit is being completed to the push motor when it should not be. Trace the circuit and see where things are going.

[@ralcogaming7674]

So I bought a rapidstrike today, brand new wasn't thrifted. And for some reason it's shooting very poorly I can throw a dart further than the first 5 put of any mag. I realised through a bit of testing my flywheels aren't fully spinning up until the trigger is pulled. Any idea why? I'm kinda sad I can't even manage stryfe distances with I is this just normal or is mine faulty in some way?

[@CaptainXavier]

Sounds like a short somewhere. Could be a bad switch, could be miswired. Factory flaws happen. If possible I would return it. If not, rewire it.

[@ralcogaming7674]

I can rewire it if necessary I just didn't want to if it was pointless. I've got a few projects already but the rapidstrike will be my next one so I'd rather hold on to it

[@ralcogaming7674]

@@CaptainXavier okay so I found the issue it was an empowered flywheel. Can I remove this bottom plate or is it there as a ground? There's soldering on it so I'm a little worried

[@CaptainXavier]

What bottom plate?

[@ralcogaming7674]

@@CaptainXavier there's a small circuit board like plate with 2 small soldered bits keeping me from getting to the wires on the motors

[@lcxlel5055]

Make a nerf sling fire stock attachments that you can put on other guns

[@CaptainXavier]

Wait for it...

[@lcxlel5055]

Captain Xavier OK 😀

[@jeroenyneter]

what kind of switch is the one with only no and com and can i use a switch like the others there or do i need that specific type of switch?

[@CaptainXavier]

The technical term is a "Momentary N.O. Switch." The ones with NO and NC are called "Momentary 1NO1NC Switches." Either will work for a purely NO application (just don't connect anything to the NC terminal on the 1NO1NC version) What is really important is that the switch is rated for the voltage of the battery and the current draw of the motors.

[@jeroenyneter]

thank you you're awesome ^^

[@jdashi3772]

Aye, snap circuits

[@noahkusterbeck2363]

What wire would I use for the yellow variable wire, negative or positive?

[@CaptainXavier]

...neither...that is the point...it is variable...

[@noahkusterbeck2363]

@@CaptainXavier so I don't need to solder a wire where you put the yellow one?

[@CaptainXavier]

@@noahkusterbeck2363 what? You need all the wires I show in the video. I wouldn't have a wire in the video of you don't need it.

[@noahkusterbeck2363]

@@CaptainXavier ok so what do I use for the yellow wires, all I have are black and red wires, do I need to go out and buy some sort of special wire?

[@CaptainXavier]

@@noahkusterbeck2363 the color does not matter. Wire is wire. We just use different colors to make it easier to keep track of things. Mark the ends with some tape or something so you know which are which. I would recommend getting a third color wire in the future to make it easier.

[@Mac-nw3uc]

I need help. So I have a Recon MKII, but 60% of the time, when I prime it, it just fires randomly. I dont even put my hand on the trigger yet I prime it and it just fires. It's weird. How can I fix this?

[@CaptainXavier]

Have you modded it in any way?

[@Mac-nw3uc]

No, when I brought it, I played with it for a week or two, and then abandoned it. only to see it firing 60% of the time when I prime

[@CaptainXavier]

Huh. Clearly there is something wrong with the catch. The spring might be misaligned. The catch might also be worn or poorly molded.

[@Mac-nw3uc]

I think so, it performed normally, on par with my other blasters, but now it fires randomly. It's a nice blaster.

[@floofer6699]

hey, how do you disable motor braking on this setup? im needing a two and a three switch setup, that has no motor braking...

[@CaptainXavier]

Why do you need no motor breaking on the pusher motor? Not having motor breaking on the pusher is usually a bad idea. On a 3 switch setup, it will typically result in runaway (the blaster never stops firing). On a 2 switch setup, it will typically result in one last dart getting pushed into the flywheels after they stop and causing a jam.

[@floofer6699]

im gonna be doing this wiring setup for a vulcan... people are telling me the vulcan motor should never be braked. @@CaptainXavier

[@floofer6699]

someone also tells me you designed the deplorable... im building a deplorable, but wanting to keep my cycle control... do you have a wiring guide for the deplorable? @@CaptainXavier

[@CaptainXavier]

@floofer6699 What exactly is the plan? Because the Vulcan is a single switch blaster. I assume you are building a Deplorable? That would add a Rev Switch. Are you also planning to add a Pusher Control Switch? The Vulcan does not normally have one, nor does it need one.

[@floofer6699]

did you get the last reply? im doing a deplorable with a third switch for cycle control... i cant find out how to disable motor braking, anywhere on the internet. @@CaptainXavier

[@A1dan_12]

If the pusher motor is Mieshel 2.0 at 3S, will this work with the diagram, I've seen a fair amount of pusher runaways with high rate of fire.

[@CaptainXavier]

Mischel 2.0s are 2s motors, running them on 3s is a bad idea in general and will almost certainly lead to run away.

[@A1dan_12]

I do understand overvolting is bad but it is for high rate of fire. Is there a way to counter pusher run away with high rate of fire?

[@CaptainXavier]

@@A1dan_12 not in a three switch setup (that I know of) other than a higher torque motor. As I understand it most people go with a 2 switch setup with motor breaking to allow high rate of fire. It avoids run away but you no longer have pusher arm return.

[@A1dan_12]

Thanks, it makes sense that’s the third switch is not a must with anything with 14 dps or above

[@CaptainXavier]

The risk in eliminating the pusher return is damaging your pusher arm when you swap mags. It is also harder on the whole pusher system. The best solution is a belt system like the Hyperfire or Regulator. But obviously that does not work in all blasters.

[@kadenmcknight8207]

Hey captain Xavier

[@CaptainXavier]

hi

[@kadenmcknight8207]

Sup

[@hamburger8438]

#notafaction squad

[@diegoblattler7391]

What is a brushless motor

[@CaptainXavier]

A motor...that does have brushes.

[@diegoblattler7391]

What difference do the brushes make

[@CaptainXavier]

Brushless motors spin up much faster and have much higher torque. However, they are also much more complicated to wire.

[@HellcatKev]

I know this is really old but I just did this for my son. For some reason when I pull the Rev switch it activates the pusher motor. When I squeeze the trigger switch it doesn't do anything. Any ideas??

[@CaptainXavier]

My guess would be you wired REV COM to TRIGGER NC instead of TRIGGER NO

[@HellcatKev]

I have REV com to Trigger NO and NO trigger to NC pusher

[@HellcatKev]

If I push the switch down on the pusher by hand and hit the Rev the pusher doesn't activate basically resetting it. As soon as I squeeze the trigger it activates the pusher (as normal) but If I release the trigger the pusher continues.

[@CaptainXavier]

@@HellcatKev if you push REV with neither the TRIGGER or RETURN switches pushed the Pusher Motor should spin. For the Pusher motor to stop when REV is pushed the RETURN switch must pushed and the TRIGGER must not be.

[@HellcatKev]

Right now if I hold the pusher switch down everything functions as normal. (Squeeze trigger and pusher activates) Soon as I release the switch the pusher is activated by the Rev switch and trigger does nothing.

[@BaldBeardedMiddle-agedGuy]

Will this also work for vortex nitron

[@CaptainXavier]

I believe so, but I have not confirmed that yet.

[@BaldBeardedMiddle-agedGuy]

Ok, I got one at goodwill with a 40 drum for $6. Now I just need to see what all I can do to give it more power. Thank for the info.

[@CaptainXavier]

I have heard that with a motor upgrade and a LiPo it can hold its own against just about any other blaster.

[@BaldBeardedMiddle-agedGuy]

That's what I have read. But with all the new motors, Lipo, etc. I'm just not sure which one would be best? Size, voltage, etc. Thanks again captain

[@EDSKaR]

Mixing cells..... aaaagh.....aaaaaaaaghh (:P)

[@EDSKaR]

On a serious note, very well explained and I didn't spot any mistakes other than the mixed cells. I tried for the third time to record my video on the two switch setup for rapidstrike and it seems to be cursed. Every time I have some major issue with the recording that I can't edit away, like me calling parts by the wrong name because I was tired when recording, my phone not recording at all, or my video quality being worse than a 90s VHS that's been left in the mud for 20 years.

[@mattvonnerf3495]

Do you know an easy way to fit the return switch (a full size Omron) in there? Would I have to cut off the lever and somehow mod the gearbox to get the switch to fit in there or can I use a Cherry DC2? I'll be running it with Fang Revamped flywheel motors and a Honeybadger pusher, would the current be too much as the DC2 is only rated for 10 amps I think? The Omrons are rated for 21 amps. It'll be running on a 2200mAh 60C 2S LiPo (capable of 132 Amps) if that helps. I've been at my wits end and it's really worried me fitting the switches.

[@CaptainXavier]

Captain Slug has a switch plate on Thingiverse that holds 3 omron switches.

[@mattvonnerf3495]

That, good sir is beyond awesome, thank you. Luckily I have a 3D printer, it has saved my backside on many occasions. I will get the .STL from Thingiverse and also give a big thank you to Captain Slug. Consider me (again) eternally grateful, I'm not sure how many favours I owe you now, it's a lot!

[@NemeanLion]

Second!

[@Mutt_Buncher4]

make a magazine/clip fed nerf jolt

[@xavierpatterson2216]

McFirst!

[@derekhenschel1632]

Hay i got a thunderbow i dont need do you want it? Ill send it to you for free i dont want it back.

[@CaptainXavier]

Not particularly? I have one and I will almost certainly never use it...but thanks for the offer!

[@derekhenschel1632]

Ok then.

[@derekhenschel1632]

What about a broken rough cut or a Retaliator

[@CaptainXavier]

Again, not really? I have plenty of spare parts.