Carriage Stop Clamp Bolts, Turning the Shank and Chasing the Thread

I decided to make a couple of square head bolts for the clamp bolts on the stop instead of using commercial socket head cap screws. This video covers order of operations, working with multiple parts and turning and threading the shank. The next video will cover the work on the head, including cutting a radiused bottom groove, a large spherical radius on the ends and squaring the heads. I'll also show how to heat treat the bolts to Rc60 to make them stronger and more durable.

[@coyzee1]

Thanks Tom for another great series, we covered a lot on this project. I look forward to your next one. I'm surprised all we got was a "Damn" when the camera dropped, great self control shown there.

[@TomsTechniques]

There was some minor editing involved in that scene. Doubleboost would have been proud. :) Tom

[@jimmilne19]

Again, enjoyable and informative at the same time. I'm looking forward to the final episode. I can't stop thinking about that knurling tool you have. I hope you consider making a build series on that tool so we can follow along and make one (or two) too. Thanks again, Tom. Super.

[@thoperSought]

the little side comments that you make, like, "we don't have to worry about boring... the hole is already concentric," are incredibly useful and instructive. we get a little window into the way you think about things, and the real function of different processes.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks. That's why I like doing the tutorials. They give a glimpse into how the various machining operations are applied in the real world. Tom

[@DumpinMyGun]

My grandfather had these tools (R.I.P) and I never figured out what the hell they where for. Thanks man.

[@TomsTechniques]

And now you can use them.

[@k5at]

Another great video Tom. Looking forward to you finishing the Carriage Stop.

[@TomsTechniques]

No, but I sure scared the hell out of one.

[@FredMiller]

Outstanding video Tom. You had me mesmerized with the processes when your camera bailed on you. That sure woke me up! Great tip with using a drill bit or parallel to index the parts on the lathe. I learn a lot looking over your shoulder! Thank you- Fred

[@rchopp]

That sure is a smooth and quite running lathe very impressive. I'm glad the camera survived.

[@TomsTechniques]

It is a joy to use. I'll have to schedule another demo on my dad's Atlas for a reality check. ;) Tom

[@ScoutCrafter]

Great Video! I think we all jumped when the camera took a dive! Especially with that "cracked glass" lead in! Thanks much!

[@TomsTechniques]

Yeah, it was pretty humorous after the fact, so I decided to leave it in (after a bit of audio editing). :) Tom

[@MilanDupal]

Thank you for your effort creating excellent educational video! I'll try to follow your way to manufacture similar clamp bolts.

[@RandallMoore1955]

Some times you get the bear and some times the bear get,s you. Any way you keep it real Tom and that,s what counts. Great videos. Very very good teacher and i thank you.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching.

[@PatFarrellKTM]

I trust that there will be one last video where you make the heads of the magic bolts. The video kind of left us tied to the railroad tracks.

[@TomsTechniques]

Sorry Pat, but the video got too long so I had to break it into two parts. I have to finish editing the second part and should be able to post it tomorrow. Tom

[@stephendeakin2714]

Looks like a "Doubleboost" style, sky camera mount would prevent, Oop's there goes the camera, glad it survived. Impressed with that six jaw chucks grip on short lengths. Thanks.

[@TomsTechniques]

One of my viewers paid a visit last week and that was a topic of discussion. He produces video for a living and had a few good suggestions. Six jaws are good for concentricity and a good strong grip without marring the work. Tom

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, I have seen most of your videos, you make it look so easy, in fact it is with a good approach of the task to be done. Great teaching, always looking forward for the next video. Just one little observation about the threading die, if you install it reverse in the holder it has a more stable shoulder to sit in to prevent movement since it's holding with only one set screw. (Just a personnel question) Thank's for the time you put in sharing your knowledge .

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Pierre. I like to square the die by pushing the tailstock ram against it. If it was switched, the ram would have to push against the cast surface of the die stock, which I wouldn't trust to be square. Once the die starts square, it'll track square regardless of what the stock is doing. Tom

[@pierresgarage2687]

Toms Techniques Agreed, I've just check my holder, it's near straight but not perfect, since we can trust the die more than the holder. Pierre

[@gentharris]

One method to cut very accurate and straight threads with a die is to hold the die in the headstock chuck and the work piece in the tailstock, Dies, unless held perfectly square to the work want to start wandering and wobbling! Not an issue for short threads like in this example but it can rapidly go south if you wanted 2" of thread. Try it you'll like it LOL

[@TomsTechniques]

Yup, that will work as well. You can also get (or make) die holders that can be held in the tailstock with a drill chuck. I normally single point my threads because it's so easy to cut them on the Hardinge, but opted to do it with a die to show an alternative method. Tom

[@gentharris]

Toms Techniques Yea that Hardinge you have is a dream lathe for a home shop and I also single point most threads but the die in the headstock chuck is a usefull trick especialy for long non critical stuff and multiples quickly.

[@daveticehurst4191]

Why not use a 5C collet instead of that large chuck? By the way Tom, I hope that you keep a collet in the spindle nose whilst you have the chuck fitted ? If not then you are damaging the quick release collet changer bearings and pawl mechanism. You should remove the quick action drawbar assembly if you intend to use the lathe with no collet fitted. One of the chucks on my Hardinge will not fit if a collet is fitted, so I have to remove the drawbar assembly. Easy to do, just pull out the pivot pin.

[@CompEdgeX2013]

No cameras were harmed in the making of this video! lol

[@daveticehurst4191]

Why not use a tailstock travelling die holder ? Parallel shaft fits into the drill chuck, the long body of the die holder slides along it, and there is a nice handle to grip whilst threading.

[@TomsTechniques]

There are lots of ways to accomplish the same operation in machining. This is a good way to chase a thread without special tooling. Tom

[@daveticehurst4191]

Toms Techniques Thanks Tom, point taken. Three other comments, two on this video and one on the tapping the dial one. Firstly on this one protect the compound slide top with a bit of card or scrap metal, as you were threading the handle of the die holder was tapping the top surface and was probably bruising it. Next Protect the end of your tailstock quill, you were rubbing it with the hardened die ! also to get some extra length to reach the part, use your drill chuck with the jaws retracted inside, will give you and extra 3 to 4 inches. You have about a 20 to 30, 000 $ machine there, look after it. The last comment is about you tapping the hole in the dial, I see that you let the handle of the tap wrench keep banging on the locking mechanism of your Aloris tool post, again possible damaging the surface finish. Not in your case that I have seen so far, but I have seen where other people keep plonking down tooling, spanners, hammers etc on machine surfaces i.e Bridgeport tables. A real NO NO as it bruises the surface and makes it unflat.

[@TomsTechniques]

Dave Ticehurst I know what my machine cost Dave, because I bought it brand new, and I can assure you that it gets well taken care of. Aside from normal wear and tear, it looks and runs pretty much the same as the day I bought it. All this nonsense about protecting the finish from tooling is just that, nonsense. These machines are meant to be used and a few scratches and dents in the finish is just normal wear and tear. And yes, I'm one of those guys who lays tools on the mill table, so be sure to point that out.

[@dennyskerb4992]

Tom, another great video. How long to edit a video of this lenght

[@gregbrodie-tyrrell3473]

Tom, when i cut threads with a die I usually put the die nut the other way around (from what you showed) in the stock, so that the pressure of the leading or tapered thread, and therefore the cut, forces the die up against the shoulder on the inside of the stock. Once you have done this you can reverse the stock and use the tighter thread in the die nut to cut a close thread right up to the end of the "bolt" or external thread. Please understand that I do not mean to teach you how to suck eggs; it just seems to me that this is perhaps another way to cut external threads?

[@TomsTechniques]

Greg, I like to use the tailstock spindle to start the die square, which is why I did that way. Once started, the die will track fine regardless of how it's held in the stock. I've used the die "backwards" as well to get up close to a shoulder, but it'll cut a nicer thread the proper way, so it's a two step process. There are many ways to accomplish the same thing in machining, which is why it's so much fun. I try to show as many different ways as possible in these tutorials. Maybe at some point I'll demo the backward die technique. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@panodanno]

Another excellent video in the series. I'm learning a lots of good techniques. Thanks for you effort and willingness to share your knowledge. I have another "what are you using question": What software do you use to draw your parts? Thanks again!

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Dan. I use SolidWorks for my CAD modeling and detailing. Tom

[@IH1940HAY]

Tom, Like your design and instruction video, and I need a stop for my 1947 South Bend 9C lathe, however my Mini Mill will not do the job in steel, if the main body were made out of aluminum do you think that would be Functional and serviceable? Thanks Tom HH

[@TomsTechniques]

Aluminum would work ok for a while, but would wear quickly in the spindle bore and where the thimble pushes against it. Could you spend more time sawing out extra stock so you wouldn't have as much steel to machine on your mini mill? Tom

[@Newmachinist]

Hi Tom Thanks for another excellent video. I have three questions 1) What make and model of lathe are you using? 2) What make and model of Camera 3) What video software are you using. Thanks Rod, Newmachinist

[@timothysvec8568]

Tom, in your travel's have you ever used a 10EE? And if so, how does it compare to your super amazing quit lathe?

[@TomsTechniques]

Functionally they are about the same. The Monarch has a lot more power but it's also a lot more complex and not nearly as reliable as the Hardinge. I've had mine for 27 years and the only repair it's needed was a new electrical switch. The thread cutting capability of the Hardinge is also much better than the Monarch. Tom

[@tomeejr]

Nuts. I wanted to see TUNING THE SHANK, not just TURNING it. Anybody can turn a shank, but to see someone TUNE it... now that is really a challenge. (See the video title).

[@TomsTechniques]

Oops. Guess I better fire the editor.

[@Newmachinist]

Hi Tom - Corrected my 'public' thingy you suggested so I will again ask.. I have three questions 1) What make and model of lathe are you using? 2) What make and model of Camera 3) What video software are you using. Thanks Really appreciate your videos!! Rod, Newmachinist

[@TomsTechniques]

That worked! 1) My lathe is a Hardinge HLV-H. I bought it in 1988 and am the original owner. 2) The camera I use is a Sony Handicam CX-100 3) I just bought the video editor and am hard at work learning how to use it. It is Power Director 12 by Cyberlink. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@UnreasonableSteve]

Can your lathe do any metric threads?

[@TomsTechniques]

I didn't have any need for metric threads when I bought the lathe, so I passed on that option. I've thought about making a gear cluster that would allow it, but I just don't have much call for metric threads. Tom

[@tuscanland]

Hi Tom, may I ask what live center you are using in your tail stock?

[@TomsTechniques]

Sorry, but I just came across your comment. I have two live centers for my lathe. The standard one has no info on it other than "Made in Czechoslovakia" and the one with the extended point has no markings at all. In my defense, I've had them both for more that 25 years. :) Tom

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

Tom, I'm sure this has been asked, but what are your favorite cutting fluid for steel and aluminum?

[@TomsTechniques]

I don't use much coolant, but if needed it's a water based synthetic coolant in a spray bottle. For tapping in stainless I have a supply of the old formula (pre-ban) TapMagic. For tapping and light machining of steel I use ordinary sulphur based cutting oil. For tapping and light machining of aluminum I use WD-40. Tom

[@richkellow1535]

Tom, I find it very hard to criticize your techniques and I am enjoying this 16 part series, but, when it comes to cutting speeds you keep say "divided by" when you should be say multiplied by. 1/2"....=60SFPM....X 4 =240.....divided by 1/2 does not equal 480 rpm's

[@TomsTechniques]

Better check your math Rich. 240 divided by 1/2 does indeed equal 480 (remember, when dividing by a fraction, you need to invert and multiply) In regards to your other comment, shop math is something I will eventually be adding to my topic list. Thanks for watching. Tom