CARRIER FURNACE NOT HEATING EASY FIX 31 Code

[@Chris-qq2cu]

This is the first video that mentioned the exhaust pipes. I have been trying to figure this out for 3 days and that comment did it. I have a 2 year old. Nuff said. Anyways I went to Lowe’s and bought a washing machine drain hose, hooked it up to my shop vac. And 5 minutes later I sucked out too many rocks and clumps of dirt and my furnace is running great! Thanks again!!!!

[@HVACRSurvival]

🫣🤣👍👍 good to hear you got it figured out.

[@BillyN31]

Nice! Most techs rush to say it’s a bad switch when it’s usually something that the switches are designed to prevent.

[@ryanmcananey6245]

Always great when the customer spends the money for top tier equipment the the install gets all hacked up. Nice fix looks a lot better

[@HVACRSurvival]

Thank you!

[@richardlabat5357]

Perfect video!!!!! some of these air switches has two contact - one on the front one on the back check both! On my Carrier unit the yellow jumper powered both switches - then there was a brown (signal to control board) and orange (signal to control board) two different outputs signals. Inducer housing pressure and collector box pressure (check all 3 tubing- green, black, and black square tubing vacuumed sensing signal). Blow them out (toward the inducer housing) and you can check them with a OHM meter by gently sucking on the hose and hearing them click. Make sure the hoses are good and tight - a very small vacuum leak can cause them to not work!

[@williamgildea8348]

Please keep the residential videos coming. You are one of the best technicians on KZbin. Every little bit helps.

[@HVACRSurvival]

I wish I was, I know the brands I service best, it's the off brands and new equipment that will take me more time to figure out. But with a little time I usually get it. Thanks 4 the kind words👍👍

[@wayneschneyer8699]

As a retired Carrier distributor service manager I have two things to offer. The fix was a good one and kudos to you for your professionalism and ethics. Now to item two: Carrier has what is called a concentric kit that allows both pipes to exit the same hole. 4 inch hole. The exhaust goes out the middle of what looks like a cone/ funnel, and the intake air is drawn in from behind that cone. Very nice looking too. In your case, this, had you known of it, would have solved all the issues you correctly pointed out in your valuable video. When time allows you may find it worthwhile to talk to the Carrier distributor near you and get some info on this kit. I doubt, with so many hackers around, this will be the last time you and other professionals run into this issue. Also as others have correctly pointed out, the requirement is 12 inches above any anticipated snow load. Thanks again for leading the way. Wayne Schneyer

[@HVACRSurvival]

Thanks Wayne, I appreciate you taking the time to watch it and leaving me a note. I myself have the concentric kit on my furnace and generally most new installs that we do would normally get one of those. I believe there was a previously installed furnace that already had been vented out. Otherwise I'd never recommend running the exhaust stacks behind the condenser like was done. Unfortunately I would have had to drill a new hole or try to saw the whole bigger to fit the concentric out and then figure a way to block off the previous two exhaust penetrations, I'm not sure that would go over well.

[@Starbuckin]

@@HVACRSurvival Why is the air intake tube going outside??? The one for my Bryant gas furnace goes up out of the furnace a short distance up and draws intake air just above the furnace INSIDE my basement.

[@bikerbobcat]

Residential HVAC tech here and 5yrs in I'm not quite a 'new guy' but always so much to learn. Good video. A lot of my customers are going to youtube first to understand what is wrong with their systems. Sometimes that's bad but often it saves a lot of explaining.

[@HVACRSurvival]

I try to not look like a DIY channel but most of the time it's the same stupid things wrong over n over. I appreciate you watching!

[@charleschambers1403]

I’ve had this issue in a unit for 3 days straight thanks for the tips

[@HVACRSurvival]

Your welcome👍👍

[@britishsterling4977]

thanks buddy...5am here and the windchill is -10F furnace has been out for hours watched your video and i had it back up and running within 30 minutes of watching your video

[@HVACRSurvival]

Cool, just been sure to check it for all the heat exchanger problems there known for.

[@chartmaster5440]

Thanks for your videos helped me fix my error 31 on my carrier

[@HVACRSurvival]

Awesome!

[@tonydelgrego2906]

Good solution on what you had to work with. Stay Safe

[@HVACRSurvival]

It was a losing battle. I still wasn't happy with the pipes that high or far apart. But that was a install screw up but I didn't want to say that in the video.

[@Eddy63]

Nice repair Rick ... In the snow ...

[@larrydurkee5741]

When we used to install the Carrier furnaces here in Ontario the requirement was 12” above the highest expected snow level and 12” of separation between inlet and outlet. There was only two acceptable terminations, two pipe as described above and concentric. Not sure that has changed. Also anything that include risers above the snow had to be insulated. I remember getting tagged by the inspector at the time for less than 12” between. Made me fix it before unlocking the meter (new install).

[@adamradley4407]

Yes here in ontario 12" min between fresh air and exhaust if under 100kbtu. Over 100kbtu its 3". 12" above expected snow fall and usually around 3" outdoor vent before you have to insulate it. It is usually in the manual as different makes and btu values have different requirements. As far as the ones in this video I can definitely see it recirculating depending on wind which will shut it down. Also exhausting near/ below ac is a no no. Condensation and ice will build up on the unit. Personally our dispatchers send the home owners to check venting before we are sent out. Saves us those snow in boots situations lol

[@larrydurkee5741]

@@adamradley4407 thanks. It has been years since I have installed one. Put a two stage in my house in 2013. Love it. Have had to replace the inducer motor, not a failure but got very noisy, could hear it upstairs. Other than that it has been great. Did you mean three feet before insulation? I used to have to hate insulating them. Put one out under a deck and extended it the width of the deck, insulated with 1/2” Armaflex.

[@HVACRSurvival]

Running pipes a long distance outside under a deck in northern climates would likely result in the exhaust pipe accumulating ice build up inside the pipe and eventually restricting it enough to cause pressure switch lockout.

[@adamradley4407]

@@HVACRSurvival we have run up to ~15' of 2" vent hooked up to 70-90 kbtu furnace without an issue but you really have to make sure you are sloped well and fully insulated. I have run close to 30' of 3" through an unheated garage on a 110kbtu successfully. Granted it is not ideal to run long lengths outside but sometimes it is the lesser of the evils ;) Make sure it is well insulated and sloped very well.

[@TechnicalLee]

Good fix, much better than before. One thing I would have done is make the intake shorter than the exhaust by 6-12". That way you won't get recirculation even with a lot of horizontal wind since heat rises, it will go over the top of the intake.

[@wayneschneyer8699]

Absolutely buddy, I hear that. I just didn’t know if you were either a Carrier dealer or knew about the kit. We need guys like you out there doing the wonderful work and sharing the right information to the rest. A lot of guy seem to follow you as well as learning the right way. Great job and a lot of responsibility to keep up and improve the image and public perception of our trade. Wayne Schneyer

[@HVACRSurvival]

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, sometimes reply's get hidden. Thanks for the supportive words!

[@christiansommer914]

Sweet video as always. Glad all the snow here is gone, man that snow can ruin your hole day sometimes.

[@HVACRSurvival]

The snow is still here🤣. Thanks 4 checking it out!

[@SOLOOJESUCRISTO]

Be blessed, thanks you for teaching me for Freeeeeeeeee...................................

[@HVACRSurvival]

I've been very blessed, your more than welcome, I'm just glad your getting something from these videos.

[@HVACUncensored]

Finally catching up on some videos. Good work Rick. Keep kicking ass with the videos brother.

[@jakewesley6404]

Loved the video. Im looking at a carrier weathermaker 9200 uhe with similar symptoms. Comes on for 1 to 5 minutes shuts off. Blower is not turning on but duct by heat exchange gets fire hot. Then it trips. Im assuming its the capictor or the blower motor. Great vid!

[@HVACGUY]

Thanks for the videos. We still don’t see many of those down here.

[@KadirYildiran]

nice work Rick👍👍 As always ... professional💪💪

[@Ted_E_Bear]

Rick is on the way to save the day. !

[@HVACRSurvival]

🙈😂

[@WRP03608]

Thanks for this helpful tutorial.

[@HVACRSurvival]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Atekcs]

2 Questions- 1. Why did you move the exhaust and intake pipes closer together? 2. Why were you considering installing a "T" ?

[@HVACRSurvival]

They are less likely to recirculate when they are closer together, also a tea causes it to linger around the air intake and potentially recirculate. I almost never use a tee, sometimes a tee will help keep winds from being driven directly back into the pipe, this would happen more when you have winds coming from a particular direction like from the West for my area.

[@Atekcs]

@@HVACRSurvival Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.

[@neilvestervictor180]

polishing the tud great work Rick

[@HVACRSurvival]

You caught that🤣👍👍

[@neilvestervictor180]

it's a pleasure watching you guys get the job hopefully I will be advancing my self too

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@neilvestervictor180 Everyday is a new day and a chance to be a better you.

[@neilvestervictor180]

it's been a year working on the chill water system now I run it by my self now taking care of the fan coils and mortuary walk in freezer and walk in cooler

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@neilvestervictor180 it all comes with time. Keep it up man👍👍

[@hartsfire5706]

that looks really good for what you have to work with.

[@HVACRSurvival]

Hopefully I was able to express this is not what I wanted but there was only so much I could do with it. That's why I teeter tottered on what to do. There was no good remedy.

[@hartsfire5706]

@@HVACRSurvival i got a good laugh about deep snow. i am in central PA and my horses have snow to there belly's in the fare pastor and yet love to play in it.

[@donnierobertson3088]

Great job and video like always

[@HVACRSurvival]

I appreciate you watching and commenting, it's hearing my videos are useful that helps drive me to continue. Thanks 4 the support!

[@mikemc7540]

Thanks for great videos.

[@HVACRSurvival]

Holy cow Mike! Thank you! I really appreciate that you appreciate my videos🤜🤛👍👍

[@chrisrouleau693]

Nice clean repair

[@HVACRSurvival]

Thanks Chris👍👍

[@tuffram2165]

I highly recommend just coming straight out and doing a slash cut on them like a 45° angle cut but I guess with the snow line you can't do that up North.

[@HVACRSurvival]

I used to do the 45° angle cut on the Lennox Furnaces more than anything. It really depends on what height it comes out at whether or not you have to do a riser like that. Normally I don't need to do that riser.

[@gregbowman3598]

Good one Rick 👍

[@hvacir9176]

nicely done as always, thanks for the video

[@RJMaker]

Much better, Thanks for the video... No concerns with corroding the condensing unit on a not so windy day?

[@HVACRSurvival]

That's why I raised the stacks to attempt to avoid that. This was a bad location of the stacks with no good choices. I just made the best of it.

[@jeffreysettles8280]

What's your advice or opinion about condensation when you have the exhaust Line running up through the roof on a two-story house.

[@HVACRSurvival]

What do you mean? is it leaking?

[@wd8557]

Some city's in Michigan want your exhaust with a 90 on it.

[@HVACRSurvival]

We only 90 down for air intake. You're saying they want you to 90 down for exhaust? I've never seen that in any install manual but of course I've only done Lennox, Rheam and Carrier

[@wd8557]

@@HVACRSurvival Doesn't matter what brand it is, they want it 90 down. The city of Livonia hit me on that and they want it glued. I'll do it then come back after it passes inspection and re-do it.

[@gocubsgo5055]

Hardest furnace to do maintenance on. Still not a fan of their trap and getting burners out to clean when exhaust runs through the furnace.

[@HVACRSurvival]

The trap was changed a couple years ago, just remove a 1/4 screw and pull it out.

[@gocubsgo5055]

@@HVACRSurvival yea the model you're on the hose clamps are a pain. The trap needs hose from inducer and collector box removed to either blow through or remove it completely to clean. I've had it to where I blew through inducer hose only to clear it and it was still plugged on collector box side, theres a divider inside of the trap. New carrier models trap is a bit better but still not easy to remove and deal with their clamps.

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@gocubsgo5055 the key is a good pair of square headed linesman with the grip to hold the clamp.

[@kevinsklow3473]

Great video! Since I’m newer at HVAC, I had to wonder why you mentioned running both those pipes closer together... wouldn’t that be more of an opportunity for the intake to pull in exhaust as opposed to having them further apart?

[@HVACRSurvival]

You would think that further apart would be better but it's not. Think of how concentric kit works, the intake is right behind the exhaust. It was more of a issue with certain furnaces. The worst use to be the Lennox Pulse for this but with the current draft motor design furnaces it's not as bad but shows up when it gets too single digit temps. The hot gas exhaust can frost closed the intake.

[@kevinsklow3473]

@@HVACRSurvival thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. Seems like the concentric kits are more for difficult installs or aesthetics... trying to take every opportunity to learn the right way. Lotta hackery out there

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@kevinsklow3473 you'll learn the most as you screw up. Most things I point out or stress is things I got burnt on / callback 😁.

[@Firefighter_-uc5ns]

At 2:15 you pulled the black tube off and felt for vacuum. I did that one unit flashing code 3-1 and went to feel it I don't have much vacuum on the line even after it's pulled off but the system let the valve and ignitor ignite and start operating. What is my next step? What needs replaced? What is the actual problem here? Thank you in advance

[@pip123111]

Hey did you every figure this out

[@craighvac1808]

Do the vents being closer together make a difference even with proper terminations?

[@HVACRSurvival]

You less likely to get recirculation with them closer.

[@craighvac1808]

@@HVACRSurvival ah makes sense, I always wondered why..dont do many resi installs

[@TechnicalLee]

Closer also means they're in the same pressure zone and less likely to trip pressure switches during wind gusts.

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@fukashima6586 Without showing you its hard to describe. It just works

[@hank6887]

I'm a service technician, I've racked my brains half the day on a 58mxa120-f-15120, the problem I'm having is the cfm is not coming on for call for heat only when I pull wire off vacuum switch it comes then I put it back on and it goes through heating cycle like normal until its satisfied and won't work as normal , I've already changed the board . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@HVACRSurvival]

You said your working on a 58mx furnace yet you cant get the CFM to come on? Condenser fan motor?

[@hank6887]

Yep only when I pull wire off vacuum switch briefly then it comes and I put it back on ,and it goes into heat sequence, first time I've been on this machine at this location. In missing something. Thanks

[@hank6887]

Combustion fan motor, is what I'm calling cfm , thanks

[@hank6887]

Or induced draft motor ,

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@hank6887 email me what you checked so far. [e-mail]

[@dean3583]

The pipe needs to have a strap every 6' or less to hold it up, not just glue and hope it will hold up. Just a personal opinion

[@HernanAnzola]

Hi! Do you know where I can buy used hvac tools online?

[@HVACRSurvival]

eBay and Facebook Marketplace

[@KG-yn9qi]

So why would you want the intake next to the exhaust? Seems you would want them apart from each other!

[@HVACRSurvival]

Recirculation happens when it's further apart. there's a buffer area where you want to be, best to be close together when properly vented or a large distance apart but usually in the same pressure zone. as always follow the owner's manual and do like they ask. I've experienced this first hand

[@TechnicalLee]

Having them close together in the same pressure zone makes it less likely that the wind will trip the pressure switch on a windy day since they will experience the wind gust equally. If the pipes are further apart a wind gust may produce different pressures in the pipes and cause issues.

[@RayRay-nb7tn]

I thought in the installation instructions its suppose to be a minimum of 6in and a max of 12in apart center to center? That pitch is incorrect also.

[@HVACRSurvival]

Sounds right to me. There wasn't much more I could do😒

[@RayRay-nb7tn]

Understandable if you are limited to what you can do, you just do your best. I like how you talk through the call. It gives us subs an idea or young techs what to think about when working through the call. IMO you should continue to do this on all videos. You do a great jobso just keep doing what you are doing. See you tonight on the show. If she is up to it please bring your biggest supporter tonight, The Young Flute Lady. Lolol

[@throttlebottle5906]

that was a lot of standard elbows in total, maybe hitting length limits and the snorkels should be strapped to the wall =p as should have the original ones, regardless of the whizz-poor gluing job. a strap would have kept if from flopping over. I could see there being a wind induced issue with the terminations further apart, in combination with the condenser blocking/guiding wind. you were dealt a bad hand for sure

[@mikegirard4388]

Elbows are standard, not sweeps. They are allowed by have 2x the equivalent feet. Might check total equivalent feet to install manual.

[@HVACRSurvival]

I'll definatlty check that if she starts having lockouts. 🙈 I forgot to check the book....they had more elbows then what's normally needed.

[@CognitiveDisonance]

What is the purpose of the Tee?

[@HVACRSurvival]

I assume you're talking about the pressure switch test that I might have done? (It's been a while since I've seen the video.) If it was for the pressure switch, if it was, then It was me to monitor it accurately while it's in the circuit.

[@CognitiveDisonance]

@@HVACRSurvival Thank you for your reply. However the component I was asking about is the Tee on the outside of the building. What is it's purpose -- why not simply terminate outside the building with a straight piece of pipe, or an elbow?

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@CognitiveDisonance I went through and watched the video "completely"without fast forwarding. I mentioned why I used the tee and it was noted in the title.

[@CognitiveDisonance]

@@HVACRSurvival I dont know how I could have missed that. Thank you again -- I appreciate you taking the time, and effort, and your willingness to help :)

[@ThePeavey23]

The secondary heat exchanger is on its way out.. watch out for the smell

[@Jon-hx7pe]

it may not be, could fail this season or last years.

[@HVACRSurvival]

I have been seeing most failing around 2002-2005 or older, that's 15-16 years, things wear out. My only complaint is building the heat exchanger, if it were assembled like the new version or most any other brand. That's what takes the most time.

[@Jon-hx7pe]

@@HVACRSurvival in my view, if any heat exchanger makes it to 20, it's a success.

[@HVACRSurvival]

@@Jon-hx7pe i agree👍

[@j.d.6221]

Some sloppy installation there, con any do what you can do; great work Rick!

[@HVACRSurvival]

I think the furnace was a change out that was reconnected to existing exhaust pipes and ductwork.

[@timliu2608]

how about code 33?

[@HVACRSurvival]

It’s usually down there on the door. Pressure switch or limit switch trip generally, I can’t remember which one it is off top of my head.

[@bama539]

Another great system but bad install. They should have had the PVC in concentric or closer together. How on earth did they get away with this work.

[@harrydickson4575]

👍👍👍

[@steveblake8766]

#320 thumbs up