Steel cased reload experiment

Vid of doing an experiment of trying to reload steel cased 45acp ammo.

[@herrmahlzahn6924]

I reloaded 10 000 of 38 and 357 steel cases. No problems to report at all. Example . Pistol 357 - 2" snub, 357 Berry's copper coated FP 158 gr., Hodgdon Longshot, Remington Primer: In a 38 target load (750 to 800) ft/s an average of 12 times reload before the first fail out. 38 +P (850 -900 ft/s) about 10 reloads 38 very hot (950-1000 ft/s) about 8-9 times 357 aboutr 7 times in the 1050-1100 ft/s configuration. I had so far looking over, loaded about 20 000 rounds in 9mm, 38 and 357 magnum. Now problems with the die. The Primers after shooting OK. Not more wear on the pistol notable. That is my loading data, yours should be different and never forget, use only new brass cases, and manufactured bullets only! Never excite the manufacturers published loads. Reload on your own risk.

[@CrawldaBeast]

I find tumbling them in rice first then HBN powder after resizing, followed by another round in clean rice, helps them stay fresh. As an added bonus the cases cycle nicely.

[@davidmiller759]

I hear that four times is all you can reload steel casings.. that being said if this works you still save a load of money. Brass is tough to find.

[@arthurcarstens]

I load mine until they split/crack, be sure to get the steel cases with the hole in the middle. I use a little case lube, spray it on before loading, it's easier that way, BTW, the case lube is 10 to 1 mixture of rubbing alcohol to lanolin, get the highest concentration of alcohol you can find, mix it with the lanolin in a spray bottle, shake up good, spray on, you're good to go

[@Nutty.357]

fast forward to 2021, Great Info! lol!

[@Tom-qx5nl]

I've reloaded Wolf .45 steel cased ammo for years. I use them in the winter when there is snow on the ground and the casings get lost. There is no difference in difficulty between working steel cases or brass cases using Dillon Carbide dies. Blindfolded, you could not tell the difference. Something to remember, don't tumble the steel cases too long. Tumble them enough to remove grit then reload. I usually reload them once then discard them as the coating gets scratched up and the cases will rust quickly.

[@yaketytak4427]

Greetings from 2020 and the fun time we’re having. Great video! I’m new to reloading and I know they always say stay away from reloading steel. Good to know if there’s no other option that if done properly, it can be done

[@burntham113]

This comment killed me haha 🤣

[@Bittydog1956]

I’ve loaded steel and aluminum they both work fine .i can shot right out my door so I’ve reloaded the same casing 6 times and never had a problem.but I use a single stage Press on the 45s and a progressive on the 9mm this was done only to see if it would work. In case things get hard to find .I still pick them up and keep them just in case.

[@jungleno.]

Uh oh the secret is out! I’ve been reloading boxer primed steel .45acp cases for years. They’re a mild steel alloy. Make a 50/50 mixture Nu-Finish Car Polish/mineral spirits and add a capful to your tumbling media. The cases will come out nice and slick.

[@arthurcarstens]

Jun Gleno, you are exactly right, I use the Nu Finish and Brasso, slicks them up real good, bonus is no one else will pick them up at the range. get all you want, have a great day!!

[@thebronz6138]

I’ve reloaded reel .223. Works fine. I wouldn’t keep reloading it but I wanted to see if I could do it. Ran 100%

[@kirkboswell2575]

Just as an FYI, steel cases will work harden quicker than brass, so be aware and ready to anneal the cases sooner. Don't use oil to protect the rounds, use a durable wax, or a lacquer coating as manufactured. Some people tell me it's a polymer coating, but lacquer thinner will clean it up. And I have to say, I like the suggestion of using steel cases at matches where picking up the cases wouldn't work.

[@arthurcarstens]

Workman yes you are right those steel cases will rust quickly experimented with them during the ammo shortage a few years ago. you couldn't find brass at the range at all. sprayed them with case lube they reloaded just fine. although at the local IDPA match they had a tendency to stick in the gun I guess because the barrel was hot. anyway can be used if you don't have any brass to reload

[@Marcus2750-u1t]

You need to flare the case mouth and it will be much easier, Ive reloaded steel and it cracked after a couple firings for me but yes in a pinch they work.

[@garystrobel7969]

Good experiment and video. Thanks for providing this.

[@arthurcarstens]

just trying to help. they should load fairly easy by applying a little case lube on them before running them through the press, do what you can in a "ammo shortage "

[@benworkman177]

I have also reloaded steel cased ammo and they work fine. You may have to adjust your seating die but that is easily done especially when using a turrent or sigle stage press. Steel cases are a mild steel and can easily be reloaded but they are less malleable than brass and may not give as good a seal within the chamber area of the barrel and thereby get less velocity out of the bullet. Also steel cases tend to crack or split sooner than brass cases which are malleable. I usually am able to reload brass cases 4 or 5 times where with steel cases I have seen them split on the second or third time I attempt to reload them. The biggest reason I would not recommend reloading steel cases is that they rust and can cause malfunctions, especially after they have been exposed to damp ground or weather.

[@jeffransom2977]

Hmmm seems like steel can take more of a beating then brass. I do not think work hardening has much to do with it. I would rather have a steel sword than a brass one. I think people are just quick to look for the negatives. Die materials are super hard and are used to press car bodies and all other sorts of goods for hundreds of thousands of parts at a time before dies get replaced. Obviously companies load millions of steel case rounds on dies made from the same die materials. Carbide is a super hard material that is wear resistant, but is very fragile and expensive. You can beat on a piece of HSS steel with a hammer and it will just cut up your hammer. Beat a piece of carbide with a hammer and it shatters like glass. If any of you guys have a metal lathe I am sure you will agree that tool steel is more than sufficient as a die material. Especially at the low temps of hand loading. It really only wears out prematurely when heat is involved. So I would use a really light oil if any at all. If a machine is designed for use without oil, then oil can actually wear out the machine faster. Oil creates a film in between the materials. That film has a thickness, and if that thickness is more than the die is designed for, well it can add more pressure/heat to the whole process. Same reason you do not put thick motor oil in your brand new car. The tolerances (space between moving parts) are tighter then a older car made with machines that were less accurate. I might be wrong but I wouldn't listen to anybody who doesn't own and read a machinist handbook. So keep on loading those steel cased rounds, I hope you save a boatload of cash!!!!!!

[@RicosBettaWorld]

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[@SladeMcCuiston]

Are you lubing the steel cases? If not, you must lube steel cases. They load much smoother and the steel doesn't wear on your dies when they've been lubricated. That may be the difference in how much pressure you're having to put on them. I've been reloading steel cased ammunition and have noticed no difference in the feeling in steel and brass when lubricated. Thanks for the video. :)

[@arthurcarstens]

What do you suggest? That is interesting, would be easier to find 45acp shells to reload.

[@SladeMcCuiston]

All in suggesting is to lube the steel cases before running them through the press. Makes it easier.

[@arthurcarstens]

Slade, I appreciate your comment, I wasn't trying to be smart or a jerk, I was wondering what you think would work best for this. I normally don't lube my brass, the Nu Finish car polish does a pretty good job of that. Any different way you would suggest? I am not smart enough to be a "know it all", any suggestions will be appreciated. I try to always learn from others.

[@SladeMcCuiston]

I knew you weren't trying to be smart, I just wasn't quite sure exactly what you meant. I understand you now. I don't lube my brass either, but I do lube steel cases. I use Hornady Unique case wax. Makes it much easier to size the cases. ;) I'm not a know it all at this either, however. I haven't been loading steel cases all that long. Just trying to share the little bit that I know. Good luck and god bless!

[@mikemcnamee6030]

Slade McCuiston Buy a $4 tube of lee case lube. you can lube cases by hand, but its much much faster to just "tumble lube" the cases. dilute down the case lube with denatured alcohol (1:8), get a spray bottle(old windex bottle works) put the cases in some sort of container, mist them with your case lube, shake em up and dump them out on a paper towel. I dont always lube pistol cases, but if im sizing more than a few hundred at a time, It really makes a world of difference. 4-5 times less resistance when you lube cases.

[@davidmiller759]

I think using steel now, IS an emergency situation... try and find brass to reload. Did you anneal and resize these?? Just curious..

[@arthurcarstens]

other than the resizing done by the progressive press, no, don't anneal them

[@Ngusful]

I hear steel case is hard on your dies and press, which is why we generally reload with softer brass.

[@saltcreekammo]

there are tons of ammo remanufacturers in the country that will sell you once fired brass--unprocessed.

[@LovesM855A1]

Powder coat powder coat fixes it all

[@1968CudaGuy]

Done low pressure 45 and 40 loads. Generally will load once and leave em on the floor next visit to the range. Gotta lube the cases good.

[@arthurcarstens]

yeah, the most important part is the lubing of the shell, have found they work okay for practice, in a match they sometimes hang up due to heat, great to use in a pinch

[@stephenalibozek1058]

Ty good job 👍👍

[@arthurcarstens]

Thank you sir Appreciate you watching Hope it was a help Have a great weekend!!!

[@davidca96]

Looked like that top case has a punctured primer. Might be a shadow but it looked like it had a hole.

[@cal30m1]

When you consider how much bulk brass costs, the risk of injury, damage to your pistol, extra wear and tear on dies, chamber, is not worth it. Unless we are in a Armageddon type of situation, I would pass on this...

[@stevanrose7439]

A guy I know said he wore the extractor out on his .45 by shooting steel case ammo. He was getting it cheap.

[@arthurcarstens]

Been reloading them for years, have the same gun, Smith and Wesson M&P 2.0 in 45acp for years, haven't changed the extractor yet, YMMV thanks for watching have a good day

[@LovesM855A1]

Powder coat and change seating stem

[@rainmechanic]

News to me... i thought all steel case was Berdan primed... I would have absolutely no qualms about reloading steel cases as long as they accepted boxer primers.

[@SAVAGE308SNIPER]

Interesting...

[@arthurcarstens]

Ransom appreciate the input thanks

[@michaele1278]

Any feeding problems in the gun at all? I guess you said they shot fine, so that answers my question.

[@arthurcarstens]

Michael E, no problem with feeding in the gun, make sure you get the recently shot cases, the older ones will be rusty, confirm that they are boxer primed, I usually put a little spray on case lube as I run them through the press, wipe them off and you are good to go

[@hellishgrin4604]

I would assume with enough lube, it should work just fine

[@tibzig1]

Lube them. It will make it almost like brass.

[@claudiosavo1636]

How are you reloading anything if you don't know the difference between boxer and berdan primers inform yourself before you get hurt!

[@JohnPSupel]

I've reloaded steel case 45 after shooting a match and having some other guy pick up my spent cases,, so I experimented with steel case,, they load fine,, shot fine and I now reload 9mm for match shoots,, they work good,, when loading lead case bullets the recommend opening the case mouth slightly more than with jacketed bullets,, maybe that would help,, but I've had no problems loading steel case ammo,, as long as it's not berdan primed,, boxer is good as it had the single primer hole,,,

[@larryjanson4011]

they make steel case ammo with boxer primers? i never even look at them so can not say. but no mater as they would rust up before i could use them.

[@benworkman177]

yes I have reloaded steel cased, boxer primed ammo and they do that mainly because most all boxer primers are not corrosive and most older berdan primers are ! I did reload some steel cases as an experiment but stopped because brass cases are so plentiful at my range and can be reloaded up to 5 times before the case splits.

[@bogardrippy8881]

Thanks for the very informative video, but why do they tell you not to load steel cases???

[@arthurcarstens]

I was always told when I first started reloading that you couldn't reload steel cases because they would "split". I got curious during the ammo shortage of 2013, I couldn't find 45acp brass to reload, so I tried to reload the steel just to see if it could be done. Would be handy for IDPA matches where you can't pick up your brass. Have not tried it yet with the lubed cases.

[@wemcal]

Great video.. do you still reload steel cases in 2023-24

[@arthurcarstens]

I still have some from that time period But I don’t look for anymore at this time The ones I have still reload/ work great

[@laday1439]

What if you change the die

[@RussellHoughton]

They would be great for loss brass matches.

[@arthurcarstens]

That was my thought exactly!! It is very hard on your reloading equipment. Maybe, better on a single stage press?

[@charlesirby9222]

"You sound like a 'repeater' ( Dies do not last forever regardless of what you load... ) I've heard you kids saying this over and over…My 45 acp dies were bought in 1974 and running strong today…just what is in that soft brass that is ruining my dies? How many die sets have you worn out in your vast experience? Me thinks…it's the modern mindset of wanting all the latest 'bling' and you justify this in your own minds in order to have a 'newflashiegadget', I'm not discounting the carbide sets, I love them, use them but….unless you are loading 100's of thousands of rounds in a commercial environment, you aren't 'wearing' on those dies…dies get f'd-up with scratches from foreign matter….then they deposit their scars on other cases…then everyone is jumping up and around about how their dies wore out…what? Let's try harder to stick to the facts in this reloading realm…consistency, repeatability, dependability…these kind of hard facts…not something you heard and then ""Repeated"" ." Semper Fi…charlie

[@charlesirby9222]

+DEEREMEYER1 My oldest son is 46 so most people that age are 'kids' to me…and you are right about the facts that you have stated, although bushings and grommets seals and such get replaced over and over again while they wear against the same metal housing they are mounted in or on. They rotate and move in and out probably thousands of times more, stroke for stroke so to speak than do a lubricated brass case going in and out of a die set over the years but eventually would wear out. You use diesel mechanic scenarios to back your facts and I don't doubt them…we can just argue over the points and the way we argue or I can just admit…that I came to this topic with a bad attitude and a bag full of assumptions. You sir have put me in my 'old timers' place…I apologize to all concerned and will just take my marbles and leave…You OK with that? charlie

[@skeets6060]

I thought the steel casings had 2 primer holes and used boxer primers, or am i wrong?

[@kirkboswell2575]

skeets skeets , you only have part of the information. European ammo is Berdan primed, and has two flash holes. American ammo is Boxer primed and has one central flash hole. Also, if the ammo is specifically made for the American market, the manufacturers usually use Boxer primers.

[@imeprezime1285]

Flat nose 45 acp? Why?

[@arthurcarstens]

They were lighter, less material used 200g vs 230g. They worked okay Plus at the time it was the only bullet mold I could get all the others were back ordered Appreciate you watching. Have a great week!!