Case 580K fan belt replacement

Case 580K fan belt replacment

[@22kpar1xcyberdyne9]

Great idea on the counterweight not being removed but slide it forward on longer bolts. I too recommend that you should only remove 4 bolts off balancer / pump coupler, then pry the coupler forward enough to slide belt thru on its side. Tools used are two 5/8 wrenches (torque), a man with pry bar on passenger side to hold crank from rotating, and him to also bump the engine over. Use left hand to reach and unbolt as standing between wheel and engine. No need to drain fluids. Case dealer works by the $$$ hour, not by the simple job.

[@walterc8284]

to change the fan belt on a 580 D case backhoe 4x4 it takes approximately 30 minutes loosen the two bolts on the hydraulic pump casing take a bar to push it back enough to slide the fan belt down and around the crankshaft pulley / water pump and the alternator it's 123

[@forknowledge6959]

same for 2wd?

[@killaquarryservices3065]

Done mine tonight 1hr 45 minutes removed just two bolts on the coupler , while leaving two bolts on their last few treads slide the belt in sideways, reinstall two bolts and so on👍🇬🇧

[@walterc8284]

what are you changing the pump and the fan belt

[@zacharyrichter7725]

All you have to do is unbolt the coupler and slide it towards the pump....

[@warrenfipp1856]

Thanks DooMeD. Will begin process this weekend. Any tips are appreciated.

[@rusmes4732]

Actually, someone told me to do that. There was no way I could figure out how to get it unbolted and out of the way. I went to the case dealer, and that is where I was instructed to do the all day procedure of draining the oil and pulling the pump. Would you mind doing a video of the belt replacement undoing the coupling, along with any special tools you might use? If we can see how to do it, I will remove this video. For now, this is the way the Case dealer replaces the belt. Thanks.

[@warrenfipp1856]

,@@rusmes4732

[@warrenfipp1856]

Actually I replaced my belt on the 580K last weekend. The machine had set for 14 years and when I tried starting it, the belt snapped immediately due to frozen alternator. Also when I got into it I had to also replace the radiator, alternator, water pump and the oil cooler. So since those were out, and the hood was off, I had plenty of access to get to the pump. I unbolted the four bolts you did, but all mine were bolts, unlike your two bottom ones which you said they were studs. Someone must of screwed up the bolts before on a previous job. Anyway, they came out fairly easily. I also disconnected the hydraulic return line on the left that attaches to the strainer in the frame. While I was there, I replaced the return hose, and cleaned the strainer. You do not need to replace the strainer, since its stainless, just clean it. I did replace the hose since I was there already. I also pulled the 4 oil cooler lines and radiator hoses since I replaced both units. Once everything was detached from the pump, including detaching the hydraulic lines on the right, I wiggled the pump back and forth until it came out of the machine. I now had room to replace the belt. I also put some antisieze on the pump shaft before I put it back in. Someone told me since its such a time consuming job, that I should put a second belt in the space as a back up precaution in case the new belt breaks down the road but personally I dont know how you would do that with such limited space. Anyway, it all went back together just fine, but took almost the entire day by myself. A Case mechanic told me if I couldnt get the pump shaft to split from the machine, then just uncouple the 4 bolts on the coupler and get the belt in that way. I think that would be harder in my case since I had everything off and didnt want to turn the pump over with out fluid. Also, its tough to get to those 4 bolts and you have to "bump" the motor the get the bolts in a spot to get to them, but that may be an option for the future if I ever (god forbid) have to replace the belt again. To answer you question about moving the front weights forward on longer 12"bolts, you dont need to do that. I suggest DO NOT remove your video though since it was your video that got me to replace the belt myself so thank you for that. Hope this helps, and thanks again for the video.

[@ericwelsch3011]

You can slide a new one in behind the coupler. I’ve done it on a 580k and 550e. Less mess for sure. Not a lot of room to do it though.

[@juannodal9562]

That is a lot of work not needed, take off the four bolts right under the fan to the pump and slide the pump yoke in, should be enough room to get the belt in there on it's side.

[@forknowledge6959]

I have a 580D and I'm also wondering if I could just pull the pump out and gain enough space without disconnecting the hydrolic lines. Maybe if I can get the pump out just over 2 inches without disconnecting the hydrolic lines I might be able to slip the belts off and through the hole?

[@caverbrad]

My water pump sprung a huge leak and I bought a new belt since the old one is worn and then I find out changing it is a wee bit difficult.

[@allconstruction1]

For a belt all can be avoided with splitting and refluxing the belt or by putting a ajustable link v belt...good lock ! Like old timers use to do !

[@warrenfipp1856]

Nice Job! Very clear process. Saves reading 30 plus pages in the repair manual. Thanks for the video... By the way, how long are the bolts you used for the counterweight?

[@rusmes4732]

The bolts were 12 inches as I remember. When I slid the counterweight I used a floor jack and slightly lifted the weight so it would move easy over the threads.

[@DavidSnyder-w9j]

What size are the bolts ? 12"L x ?

[@walterc8284]

sir you do not have too drain any fluids or lines to install your fan belt

[@rustyredneck1689]

You don't got to do all that just just take the 4 m8 1.25 bolts out of the fan hub lay the fan up against the rad put some cardboard in front so you don't hurt the rad. Then just take the 4. 5/8 head bolts out of the pump shaft coupler. Slide the coupler forward put your belt on then put the fan hub back on. You Don really even have to take the fan hub off just gives you more room

[@teehomes1940]

Absolutely donot pull pompe and drain fluide

[@Matthew-mm7zz]

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