Making an 1890s walking suit | part I, the jacket and tailoring 101

[@jordynhooks1133]

Bernadette Banner would be proud

[@ElizabethEstervig]

Yay for proper canvases! This makes me so happy. If you’d like to test for wool percentage, you can take a swatch weigh it, let it sit in as powerful a bleach as possible until whatever is going to dissolve does. If anything is left weight that and you’ve got whatever dino bits they didn’t account for. If it’s mixed with silk or other animal based fibers the’ll also dissolve.

[@I_sew_slow]

This is a Great tip, I’m keeping this one. Thank You for sharing it.💞💖💞

[@CatsCostumery]

great tip, thank you! :)

[@susanpilling8849]

I think youbare doing a good job as tailoring is not an easy thing to learn. But the whole reason for pad stitching is so that the collar will roll or other pieces will curve eg over the bust. Doing it flat does the opposite and it also needs to follow the curve of the back neck. The jacket looks really nice but I get the feeling the collar will not sit comfortably.

[@Fireflyhaven]

It looks lovely, and you should be very proud. I'm also learning tailoring techniques and found the lapel/colar situation a real head scratcher too. I see why you did it the way you did and i almost did it that way too. But I found Bernadette Banners video featuring Barbara Black very helpful in understanding that process. And im approaching my tailored coat a little differently. I cant wait to see your finished product.

[@sublimnalphish7232]

I have never tailored but have watched a view instructional videos and saw quick in about the outer layer lined with the horse hair fabric. I must say thought the lines on the flatlined layer was beautiful where you put tape on . It has been beautifully cut and stay stitched. I absolutely live that black pinstriped fabric. I would love a suit out of pinstriped fabric and it be a Victorianesq pinstriped suit. I am in envy!!!

[@joellewatkins5528]

Thank you for showing off your vintage singer. I wish more people would find the love of an older machine.

[@mollykatew5655]

Lovely video, I was a little confused by you basting and pinning your horsehair to your wool before you padstitched. My understanding of pad stitching is that it is there to provide shape and structure, so it would not be done on pieces that were flat like that, your lapel did not have a roll for this reason, and the direction of the stitches also matters as that as part of pulling the pieces into the desired shape. No worries, even Bernadette Banner did the same thing in the first tailoring video she posted. Again a lovely video.

[@saiitome]

Very well done, really pretty so far! But as a trained tailor I have to agree with some of the earlier commentators, the sole purpose of pad stitching is shaping. As a matter of fact, tailoring is ALL about shaping, rolling and easing fabric to follow the shape of the human body. And fashion of course.... You need to hold and shape the layers of fabric in your hands, the urge to keep it flat and neat is something you must work to overcome. I can see you're struggling to keep it neat and tidy. But that's missing the point. Your body doesn't have the same shape as the flat expanse of a table or desk, right? So the shaping needs to be three dimensional, as your body. Also I suggest you look up and practice a lot of "turn of cloth". This is the one single thing that makes any tailored project into a success, or a struggle. It's the base of shaping and tailoring. Good luck with your sewing ❤☺.

[@thedrinkinggames9573]

I love the magazine pattern pieces. Never thought about doing that. Always looking for ways to thrift or save money, so thanks for showing that!

[@lilybloome1601]

I am in love with this aesthetic!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

"This is how slow I am" As my father in-law says of crftsmanship, nobody will ever know if it took you a long time to do but they wiell know if you rushed it.

[@habituscraeftig]

That is *wonderful* advice. I am someone who tends to put in that extra effort, but fight myself the whole way because I'm not measuring up to the speed I 'could have' attained if I was hurrying to do the bare minimum. (Which is sad, right? The bare minimum certainly has its place, but why measure anything else against it, when I've already decided what I'm doing is worth more than that?)

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@habituscraeftig on a particular project, I ask myself how much I will enjoy the process versus how much i want the project done.... if I want the end product more than I want to enjoy the process, I'll use the machine, if I want to just sit and enjoy hand-sewing, I'll take my time. On my current project, my first two long seams had to be unpicked (yay backstitching) and redone. But nobody will ever know that in the end product, because now it's done properly!

[@beauchamp90]

I think you did a great job especially because you were just following books and were trying to figure it out from there. It looks great already. ✨

[@martagrisales5681]

Que lindo tutorial, gracias !!!!!! Un gran saludo desde Colombia

[@ClaraZijlstra]

Im in the midst of my second mockup for my tailored blue duioni silk jacket. SO MUCH FIDDLING WITH THE FIT, this video helped a lot with seeing certain steps come to life

[@mayafantana5310]

Live is a lot right now, but this gives me some much needed happiness and inspiration. Thank you so very much!

[@evelepic216]

I loved your description of the additional horsehair canvas at the top of the dart! My first thought was 'backwards upsidedown comma' 🤣

[@averyt9600]

This is so exciting, can’t wait to see how it turns out!

[@stagnacja]

Lots of appreciation for your hard work...this was amazing!

[@rachelunderwood4868]

Another gorgeous project! I’ve got a length of navy pinstriped wool that is destined to become some kind of outfit at some point - getting lots of ideas here!

[@pauladavitt7554]

Looking good already, can’t wait to see the entire outfit.

[@jennymissen3523]

I loved watching this and am so inspired. Thank you. I can't wait to see the rest!

[@waterbitten]

Your pad stitching is totally enviable. Its so even! 👌🏽👌🏽

[@I_sew_slow]

I enjoy watching your Videos, and that Vintage Machine 😍, The Chevron came out Perfect. Your pad stitching 😍

[@judithcollins3744]

Such patience. You're inspiring.

[@diytailoringandrecycling7134]

Beautiful work 👗

[@megs7019]

Gorgeous fabrics, very interesting to watch you make pattern from paper to putting it together

[@benjaminepstein5856]

A tip on padstitching, it's actually better to stagger the stitches vertically, otherwise you run the risk of a slightly corrugated appearance. Additionally, the chest canvas should extend up the shoulders and needs to have some darts built in for shape. It is attached to the body canvas first and then the whole is basted to the coat front. If you pad the whole thing to the front (in parts that are not the back of the lapels), then it will pull where it is stitched to the front. You do secure it in a few spots, but it largely floats in place.

[@staceywieland3673]

Beautiful work!

[@erkschadeable]

that back chevron is sooooooo pretty!

[@qiajenaehamilton6638]

Cat, this is such impressive work. You are so talented. Thanks for sharing! Q

[@amorfranco8467]

I the collar usually is made apart. At least in modern tailoring

[@fabioferreiragomes]

........INCRÍVEL..........ESPETACULAR.........

[@ElizabethEstervig]

😍 yeeeeees. Tailoring! ❤️❤️❤️

[@jennhill8708]

You’re going to look smashing!

[@randyfernando4442]

Very nice work and the video as well. If I may ask what is the model of sewing machine you’re using? More power to you! 👍🏻👏

[@bohemiansusan2897]

Use a smaller needle of size 8 to sew the lining.

[@carolyhen]

At the start, someone knows the song name?

[@vivianc.c.3379]

The interlining is just cotton canvas, not horse hair? Very interesting, I didn't knew it was even possible.

[@CatsCostumery]

it has both! so the first layer of interlining, which goes over all the pieces, is a cotton canvas with some horsehair in it (but a very small percentage), and then heavier horsehair canvas is used for the inserts placed around the armhole, back neckline and most of the front piece :)

[@minisnoozer]

🙆🏿‍♀️♥️

[@amorfranco8467]

There's nothing on the shoulder????

[@laila.tov.]

what is that on your middles finger? I want, where to buy?

[@benjaminepstein5856]

A thimble. You can find them at most tailoring supply stores (Wawak is one). They come open ended and closed ended. The open ended ones are good for tailoring. For the life of me, I can't get used to the closed ones.