Massey Ferguson GC1723E 50 Hour/1 Year Maintenance Part 1

[@Redneck_Ed]

Note about the oil refill. DO NOT try to fill too fast or you end up with oil making it into the cylinders. Take it easy pouring that oil in!

[@joshuabrock4507]

You have no idea how helpful this was in regards to the hydro oil level. Brand new MF 1825 E owner and I thought that the dealer might not have filled it up enough. You video put me at ease lol. Thank you !

[@Redneck_Ed]

That's great, I am so glad that it helped you out. That fluid level indicator is super sketch IMO. I leveled my refill out to where the indicator has just a little white at the top so I can clearly see now.

[@bigorunge]

@@Redneck_Ed I agree, I looked at mine tonight and was like "Well, it's either completely full...or completely empty!

[@DougBittinger]

I just bought a Massey GC1725M as my first tractor. Hopefully it will be my ONLY tractor. But I'm trying to learn all I can about use and maintenance. I found this video helpful and have subscribed because you said you have more Massey content. Going to look for that now. Thanks!

[@Redneck_Ed]

I have several other videos on the channel and intend to keep putting out more. If we get some snow this winter, I hope to test out my chains and do a video on those as well. Thanks for watching and congrats on the new tractor!

[@GrampiesWorkshop]

How's she goin'? This was a good maintenance done on your GC. Nice to see this kind of care for a great machine!! Take care!!!

[@pondacres]

What up Ed. You could get to that suction filter w/o taking off the wheel. You gotta angle it this and that way a little bit, but there's room behind the wheel in the well to pull it out. Great tip about the alternator belt, I gotta check that on mine.

[@Redneck_Ed]

I looked at it and thought that might work but decided to just take the wheel off anyway. Might try keeping the wheel on next year. Thanks for the tip!

[@GreenMountainDIYGuy]

Excellent video Ed. You really go above and beyond in providing ll of the specs, torque settings, and parts. Just curious, does your manual call for changing the hydraulic oil at 50 hours? I have a 2021 1725 and at 50 hours it is just an oil change as well as checking other items.

[@Redneck_Ed]

My manual states that it is required at 250 hours OR annually. In my case, I was at 50 hours and also at the annual mark right about the same time so the annual requirement kicked in for me.

[@twinbrookacres]

Great video. Informative but not overly so (unlike someone I know!). Good clip on the sight glass. I did the same thing on a recent video, while replacing my backhoe hoses. So many people ask how to tell if there is fluid in the tranny. Full watch. Thanks for sharing. - Rick

[@Redneck_Ed]

Thanks for the comments and feedback Rick. Editing these videos down to be clear and concise isn't easy. That's actually one of the reasons I KZbin...to work on communicating better instead of rambling on all the time. I'm jumping over to your channel now to go check out your backhoe hose video.

[@twinbrookacres]

@@Redneck_Ed The video is about 4 or 5 back, from a couple of months ago. Something about hose replacements. Thanks for stopping by!

[@jasongriffin1127]

Phenomenal video, very very informative and well done! I just took delivery of mine. I drive diesel pickups and run Rotella T6 and Schaffers, both 15W40. I’m interested in seeing the logic of running an oil outside (dealerships ) of the manufacturer specifications? I have a lot of Schaffers 10W30 diesel oil. I can only assume 15W40 is common for the fleet most dealerships service. At the end of the day, the “W” rating is primarily cold weather capability of any oil and the next numbers are viscosity at operating temps with additives package characteristic coming into play. Just curious. Only asking as I’m looking to keep my tractor healthy. Phenomenal video!

[@Redneck_Ed]

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. As for the oil, I did a little research and didn't see any huge negatives to 15W for one oil change cycle. When it comes due again this coming spring, I will most likely go back to what is spec'd in the manual. The logic for the dealer is probably that is is easier and that they haven't seen any engine problems as a result of the one size fits all practice. That's my best guess. I purchased the 10 year powertrain warranty on mine, so that's a big reason I'm only running MF fluids and filters and purchasing everything from my dealer. There are 3 other dealers closer to me, but I drive to MM Weaver for all of my supplies.

[@dave434]

Thinking seriously about buying a Gc1723e home owner on 3 maybe 4ac. Biggest use would be loader and set of forks & thinking seriously about adding the 3rd function for a grapple later on. Are you pleased with the MF?? Like you I would do the general maintenance on it myself. It didn't look to hard todo,not cheap tho was it for oils filters! I liked your video,Thanks for doing it.

[@Redneck_Ed]

I am very pleased with it. Most sub compact owners have that reaction though. Kubota, Deere, Kioti, etc. The machines are amazing for their size and price point. There are a lot of common design weaknesses in all of the brands, but that's how it goes for this price point. There are alternate engine oil filters and also alternate engine oil. Likewise, there are alternate hydraulic fluids. I am testing alternate hydraulic filters this week and should have that video out on my channel soon.

[@ozarklanding]

I’m currently in the market for my first tractor. I’m trying to decide between this series or the next frame size larger (1800 series or the kubota 2500 series). This series with the backhoe is so tempting at the price point though…

[@Redneck_Ed]

I can't say myself, but I've heard others say the backhoe is slow because the hydraulic flow is low on the subcompacts. Most people would likely say that if you have the money and the physical space, get the bigger tractor. You will also see a lot of GC mower decks for sale out there because people buy subs wanting to mow and then they realize it's not the best machine for mowing unless maybe you have wide open fields. Zero turn beats a tractor almost every the time. Lots to consider. Good luck with your tractor shopping.

[@lynnshomestead7545Johnlynn]

My tires are loaded too but I used the jack to get it at the right height

[@Redneck_Ed]

I tried to do it that way, but just couldn't get it without lifting the tire just a bit. I even tried leaning the tire into the hub and jacking to catch the lip on the hub, but again couldn't get it without exerting a lift or heavy nudge on the tire.

[@lynnshomestead7545Johnlynn]

@@Redneck_Ed I want to get a wheel lift from harbor freight

[@lynnshomestead7545Johnlynn]

@@Redneck_Ed hey tell me where does your temperature gage needle run ? Mine is one line above cold .

[@Redneck_Ed]

@@lynnshomestead7545Johnlynn that sounds about right for mine too. Maybe a little bit higher on hot summer days, but not much.

[@petezahutt5174]

Thanks Redneck Ed I just replaced a leakng hydraulic hose on MF 2706 I been trying to read into the sight glass.. is it below or above? well thanks to you mine was not silver it the light tan color indicating oil is above the glass. Factory had it filled over the glass indicator.

[@Redneck_Ed]

Gald you found the video helpful. That sight glass is a real pain.

[@TheRogerhill1234]

Manual says hydraulic fluid doesn't need to be changed until 250 hours, and it also does not say to change the front axle fluid at 50 hours OR change the fuel filter OR to clean the suction filter !! Those things are done at the 250 or the 500 hour mark.

[@Redneck_Ed]

As stated in the intro to the video, this is 50 hours AND 1 year. The manual states annually for some items or by hours as you mention. I hit the annual mark before I hit the hours mark. The exact table from the manual is also shown at the very beginning of the video to show the exact requirements.

[@TheRogerhill1234]

@@Redneck_Ed Just wondering, do you change your cars transmission fluid every year too? That's what you are doing with the oil here you know. The hydro oil is good for 250 hours or far more, depending on usage.

[@Redneck_Ed]

@@TheRogerhill1234 are you disputing the maintenance interval specifications stated in the GC manual? I'm not sure if you're just arguing to prove some sort of point or if you have useful information to share about maintenance intervals on equipment still under waranty.

[@TheRogerhill1234]

@@Redneck_Ed The manual does say every 250 hours, OR yearly, that is true. However, engine oil gets dirty from engine combustion, and it can't be helped. You run the motor, you dirty the engine oil. Hydro oil does not pickup any contamination from the engine, it degrades primarily due to heat. In other words, long hours of hard work. And it takes a long time to break down modern synthetic hydro oil. Mine looks almost clear at 54 hours whereas the engine oil is pitch black. But by the book, you are correct, in that to maintain the warrantee you would be required to change the hydro oil, regardless of operational hours (if you can believe that) once a year.

[@Redneck_Ed]

@@TheRogerhill1234 Ok, now we're on track with great discussion. It is going to pain me to change that fluid again 3 months from now at less than 100 hrs. I'll drain it and it's going to look clean as can be, unlike engine oil as you mentioned. The fact that I purchased the extended 10 yr powertrain warranty is a big reason. The other is that the hydrostat is picking up moisture because it's a vented system (there is even a hole in the lip of the hydro fill cap). Dirt also is getting into the cylinders as they extend and retract. Small stuff, not visible, but it's there. I wish the tractor was sealed like auto transmissions these days so it would not get contaminated. Take the warranty out of the equation and I would probably still change the hyro fluid & filter and clean the screen every 2 years. $115 for the hydro fluid and filter last year. Probably $150 this year, but I'll suck it up and do it anyway to protect my $15k investment even though it seems wasteful and unnecessary.

[@rudyp9446]

Why did you service the transmission after 50 hours vs. 250 hours as outlined in the manual.

[@Redneck_Ed]

I had reached the yearly mark, so I changed it per the manual's statement of "yearly or every 250 hours." I later did a video with a lab analysis of hydraulic fluid after 15 months of use to see if yearly even made sense based primarily on TAN, moisture, and contaminants. Those results are all explained in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKeuiZZ_odR8o9U so everyone can sort of make their own determination whether the time-based requirement of yearly really makes sense or if it's just a waste of good hydraulic fluid.

[@rudyp9446]

Ok. Thank you so much for your explanation!!!

[@CHEECHMUN]

Hello, when is the antifreeze to be changed? Thank you!

[@Redneck_Ed]

Every 2 years or 1000 hours. Mine will come due in the spring of 2023, so I'll get a video out on the topic at that time.

[@CHEECHMUN]

@@Redneck_Ed Thanks, because I couldn't find any petcock yet, unless it's on the engine block. I'll look tomorrow!!

[@Redneck_Ed]

@@CHEECHMUN Accodging to the service manual, it's on the block. It's a bolt to the top right of the oil filter. Then there is also a drain hose that sits in a little nub on the frame. This hose is shown well in the Green Mountaon DIY guy block heater installation video. You can also see the drai bolt in his video, though he doesn't remove the bolt. If you have trouble finding his video, let me know. I can also post a snip of the page from the service manual if needed.