Cetme C Build - Finishing Up

[@hughjanus590]

Thank you for doing this! I have 2 kits to put together and you motivated me to get them done.

[@JPMachine]

Glad I could help! lol

[@C-V-Z]

Thank you for being a documentarian as well as machinist. Great video series!

[@JPMachine]

“Machinist”… I probably make real machinists cringe! 😅

[@mystakilla]

Great job man, love all the details, thank you!

[@JPMachine]

Much appreciated!

[@brettbreza8815]

Vary nice work building one now and this series was awesome looks vary good I think you should build another keep that one in the raw like that looks quite unique

[@jamayajackson5256]

There are two areas I think you should address that I can't seem to find too much info on. Firstly there's the weldment insert in the back that sits between the two rear takedown pins. That insert will not allow a cetme c stock to fit. I've found it best to use just the two steel standoff bosses right on the metal receiver with no additional weldment, or trimming the weldment insert almost in half. The other thing that I rarely see documentation of is the use of the paddle release without doing naught stuff. I think some simple measurements for the bushing and pin you used to avoid the dreaded 3rd hole violation along with video of how you did it would be super beneficial. These types of rifles suck pretty bad without a paddle when it comes to reloading. I figured out the paddle for myself, but it seems like most of the cetmes, g3s and ptrs don't have that because of the tightrope that needs to be walked

[@JPMachine]

Thanks! Yes the rear weldment thing is annoying and basically pointless in a semi build. I did have a video on the paddle but YT has been slowly deleting my videos. That video with the paddle is on Rumble, just search for my name.

[@jamayajackson5256]

@@JPMachine Thanks man! I'll check it out!

[@nater5536]

Absolutely great video series, I'm glad someone did one for the Cetme C! Unfortunately when I did mine I got ahead of myself and used an undersized barrel pin and welded it in place, and the barrel shifted out of headspace. Not sure how to go about fixing it :(

[@JPMachine]

Cut out the trunnion and re adjust the bolt gap. That’s what I would do.

[@MIRONWORKER]

GOOD STUFF

[@JohnSmith-tj5se]

i bought a piece of cold rolled drill rod that fits perfectly inside the barrel and laser cut a piece of steel that goes inside the rear of the receiver, the rod pokes through a hole in the piece of metal, when the rod is centered in the hole, the barrel is aiming straight relative to the receiver if you aren't careful about this the barrel wont be straight

[@JPMachine]

Nice way to do it, thanks! I spun it on the lathe by hand and had the rear of the receiver pretty close to true

[@RockwoodGaming]

What parts kit will you do next? Hope to see a pm63 tutorial soon!

[@JPMachine]

I have a cetme L that should be pretty quick after this. Marcolmar makes a fantastic build kit that makes it easy. Everything else is the same basic concepts as the C

[@danieltacorich741]

Thanks for the step by steps and including the small mistakes! Your build looks great, what would the next build be? I'm tempted to try out a Galil next, but prices between Milled receivers and the kits are a bit high.

[@JPMachine]

Going to make a quick cetme L next!

[@CheeseSteakJim]

this is great, but did you ever document pressing the barrel into the trunnion and setting the roller gap? that's the only thing i've really been having a little trouble with - being a perfectionist i've been trying to get that gap on the low end of the tolerance and i keep blowing by it with my press

[@JPMachine]

Yeah that video got pulled I believe. It is over on rumble though. Google “JP machine rumble” and it should find my channel. Sometimes you just gotta push it through and start over, otherwise you can try whacking it with a mallet to set back a few thou.

[@sethfaison2553]

I remember you having a video on the install of the auto shelf and modification to the trigger group. Is there another platform where those videos are still available?

[@JPMachine]

Yeah, check on rumble!

[@sethfaison2553]

@JPMachine thank you so much

[@djdrack4681]

nice. Have you considered doing pistol builds, IE some of the Rossi/taurus revolvers, or non-glock semi pistols? You do good work on rifles, so I bet you'd crush a build w/ a revolver parts kit...or even something jank like the PM64 Rak.

[@JPMachine]

Possibly a pm63… but it’s not on the radar yet

[@damienvera3135]

Is welding the seam required on the receiver ? I’ve seen some cetmes where the seam isn’t touched.

[@JPMachine]

Not sure what would happen if it wasn’t welded. Probably absolutely nothing being semi auto. It would look kind of odd if it wasn’t welded fully!

[@tjrizvi251]

Hey so, I got to this part. The tube and trunnion are welded on. Everything LOOKS smooth inside, the bolt drops through and all that, but the bolt carrier with the cocking handle is not coming out the back of the gun. It stops where the receiver kind of meets the cocking tube so I cannot actually get the cocking handle in. Any ideas what could be the issue?

[@JPMachine]

Not sure I follow! Can you send me a few pictures and explain it just slightly differently? [e-mail]

[@tjrizvi251]

@@JPMachine will do! Thanks for the response

[@tjrizvi251]

@@JPMachine hey bud, I sent you a message with some photos attached

[@MultiplyGamingRev]

You think someone could stick weld this?

[@JPMachine]

Probably not a good idea! You could get away with flux core mig, but I think stick would be too messy. Flux core mig will leave less than optimal results but it will work.

[@brettbreza8815]

Depending on how good you are with stick I only know of one welder that can stick weld sheet metal you have to have your setting perfect Flux core is definitely better but you need to practice alot super easy to burn through and if you do it's going to be a real pain in some spots make the rifle extremely hard to work the bolt or impossible

[@JohnSmith-tj5se]

the cetme front sight will only give you about 3 or 4 moa of adjustment when you go full left to full right, just eyeing the barrel with a dot on the wall is likely to not be good enough, chances are high you will never be able to zero the rifle

[@JPMachine]

Hopefully I have enough! The front seems like it’s screwed all the way down currently. I hear these things are a “close enough” sort of zero anyways. I’m about 7-8” high and 2-3” left at 50 yards. We’ll see in a week or so when I can get it out to 100 and 200 with the adjuster tool!

[@Millie.1965]

@@JPMachineAny improvements after sighting in?

[@JPMachine]

I cut the trunnion welds and readjusted. Didn’t have enough adjustment! Now it’s perfect. I did the same new alignment on my cetme L build and that is spot on too!

[@Millie.1965]

@@JPMachine Shoot. Hopefully using a 3D jig helps prevent this for me. Hoping to eventually add a pic rail so either way 1 I should work

[@JPMachine]

@@Millie.1965 watch my cetme L where I do the sight alignment, that may give you some reassurances that it’s good or not!

[@MIRONWORKER]

YES THAT REAR SITE IS A PAIN NO MATTER HOW ITS DONE,WELL DONE THO

[@vettepicking]

They is some parts on ebay for 29 right now

[@BackyardDogPark9862]

$3 spring, $12 shipping. 😟

[@JPMachine]

Yep and about an hour after ordering that spring I broke the rear sight and placed another $3 part, $12 shipping order. lol it is what it is.