Silversmithing: Basic Bur Information for Beginners

[@malcolmthompson9848]

Ball: Very small ball burs are excellent for creating set points in preparation for drilling. This replaces the need for a set punch which distorts the metal around the hole as well as on the reverse side. Given the cheapness of ball burs they should be used to do the majority of the work when creating settings. Only after first drilling the pilot hole with a drill and then enlarging it with a ball bur should one then create the set for the stone with a setting bur. Using just a setting bur to do all this will quickly burn and dull them. Hart : These when used vertically inside tubes or drilled holes will trim off rough edges left from sawing. The more acute angle of hart burs I prefer to the champfer made by cone burs. Hart burs used in the same way make excellent seats when flush riveting. Now the metal at the end of a rivet when hammered has space to expand and still grip the plate after being filed smooth. Cone: These can be used to gradually increase the diameters of holes somewhat like a reamer needle. I like the cone burs that are much longer in order to open holes. I can make just a small drill hole and then with great control enlarge the hole in order to receive a tube for chinner settings. I can also shift the hole slightly by pushing the bur to the side and drift the cut if it started off the mark. I also used cone burs to carve out the metal inside jump rings that I've sweet soldered onto a surface. I call these "portholes." They have wonderful decorative effects and also can reinforce holes that will be attachment points for chains etc. Bud: I"ve never had a need for these though my dentist tortures me with them. Wheel: They can be used for cutting slots though with difficulty in metal. Where they shine is in wax carving channel setting or inlay. Finally it should be pointed out that burs work best when they are moved along the work counter to the direction of their rotation. This will caused them to bit the metal and cut smoothly. Cutting in the same direction as rotation will cause the bur to jump. This will make sense to anyone who as used a router when woodworking.

[@chadssilversmithing]

Thank you Malcolm! I really value your input on these. I love the porthole idea and the flush riveting info. I haven't done a huge amount of riveting, so that knowledge will come in handy:). Hopefully some others will read your comment and benefit from your knowledge as well!

[@flyingcheff]

Counter sinking for a rivet - neater than a ball bur. Thanks, Malcom!! 🌺

[@ElinHaugan]

I have nothing to add to the brilliant answers you've allready got, just wanna increase your algorythm and say thank you 😊

[@chadssilversmithing]

Thank you Elin! You’re awesome:)

[@flyingcheff]

Great topic, Chad! And a great opportunity to share some information that is frequently not available when perusing bur catalogs as a beginner, or even a more experienced maker. And there is so much that isn't revealed. I'll start with my experience with the quality and efficacy of different types of burs in general: I've found that tech support at Rio stated that Tungsten Vanadium is superior to HSS (high speed steel). That said, my pavé book says HSS is superior - were off to a good start in the confusing department!! There are SO many companies making and selling burs (and drill bits). One of the better ones is Busch (Germany): Fox (Germany). Of course there are Lynx burs (Meh!); Super Q; Technique, etc. In reality, the very best burs are made from CARBIDE. These burs are much (!!) more expensive. I find that the "buy once, cry once" philosophy applies to good burs. That said, there are ways to defray costs. Ball burs are generally the least expensive so I buy them in quantity (6 packs) in the sizes I want them. I use ball burs to do 90% of the work. I have one "set" of mixed sizes, most are unused. Of course this is due to the work I do. I use a small range of sizes (1.5 mm - 3 mm) regularly for pavé. A couple points that weren't mentioned in Malcolm's brilliant comment, I will add: Drill bits and setting burs, in my experience, are the two most abused and quickly ruined bits/burs. I've been given a great tip by another jeweler: end mill bits for CNC machining are excellent second bits for drilling: enlarging an initial hole; inexpensive carbide! A far superior cup bur is now available: the Busch "Twincut concave cone" bur. Dont even THINK of the previous type. You are right about the inside teeth getting worn out quickly. The Busch twincut will rock your world. They have two slits that exhaust debris, they cut like a hot knife through butter. Next tip: use burs - especially setting burs - in reverse for gentle burring for precise seats when needed. Setting burs should be used for that last two to three seconds just to create the bearing (shelf) inside the setting for the stones girdle to seat - not for creating the entire setting seat. Diamond burs: These multipack sets are cheap on Amazon. The identical ones are bought by Rio and then sold for 4-5 times the price. Shop around. For grinding off excess backplate, try Mizzy wheels (also called Heatless wheels); again Amazon much less expensive than jewelry supply and far superior performance. Cutting wheel burs are frequently used for cutting small lines in pavé layouts, as well as gravers. Composite cut-off wheels (not the steel ones) are used for many uses, texturing and separting (see Nicole Ringold). Finally: for an excellent free course on using burs for setting stones and preparing settings, check out the Blaine Lewis video on Rio Grande KZbin channel. It's eye opening. Phew! I hope this is helpful. 🌺 🌺 🌺

[@chadssilversmithing]

Ooh, a bit that will rock my world:). Thank you once again for sharing your wisdom and knowledge! I was hoping you would chime in!

[@flyingcheff]

@chadssilversmithing your jaw will literally drop when you try the Busch Twincut in comparison! You'll hear a little inadvertent "Ooh" when you try them. Lots a lube, gentle, don't even have to push, it's like you just thought about what you wanted for that gorgeous prong, and the bur fairy made it happen. 😀

[@JustME-ft4di]

I use tiny ball burrs for texturing. Also for creating divets for drilling and before soldering earring posts on for better contact. I use them to remove metal before moving to a setting burr for flush setting. I use cylinder burrs for opening up gaps in things like the clip bit for hinged ear wires on hoop earrings.

[@chadssilversmithing]

Thanks for sharing your methods Just Me!

[@flyingcheff]

Dang! One more comment: Using burs and [drill] bits at high speeds, especially without FREQUENT cooling/ lubrication, will anneal your steel!!! 😮 This ruins the cutting surfaces of the properly tempered (for sharpness amd toughness) bits and burs. This is most frequently an issue with drill bits. I've found using oil exclusively for drilling is superior to the solid lubricants - although they can work, too. Beeswax is great. Just like voting, do it (lubricate) early and often! 😅 When burring and drilling, go medium slow, clear debris several times during the process; one big push is detrimental to the tool. Keep it cool! 😎 Ok, shutting up now! 😆 😅

[@chadssilversmithing]

Don’t stop talking:). I learn so much from you!

[@gisella1350]

I have learnt so much from you, thank you.

[@chadssilversmithing]

That’s what I like to hear:). Thanks Gisella!

[@Ohnochokin]

Excellent and detailed explanation of the tools✨✨✨

[@chadssilversmithing]

Thank you very much!

[@MeerkatHandcrafted]

Exactly the info I needed. Thanks 😊

[@chadssilversmithing]

Glad it helped!

[@ke7cat]

Wheel Burs: Removes material from a bezel to make room for a cabochon shaping.

[@chadssilversmithing]

Thank you Ke7cat!

[@flyingcheff]

Did you know that you can sharpen your drill bits?

[@chadssilversmithing]

I’m intrigued! Tell me more:)

[@flyingcheff]

@@chadssilversmithing I'll send you there: Diamond Mounter shows you exactly how to do it.

[@shelleynordman-orangepoppy6136]

Bud burs are used in Dentistry

[@chadssilversmithing]

Thank you Shelley! Do they have any jewelry application that you know of?

[@shelleynordman-orangepoppy6136]

@@chadssilversmithing Maybe sharpening up a groove or the junction of two pieces at a 90 degree angle. :)