Chain Maker's Stake Anvil

[@anthonychase805]

Why do you make the weld in the end of the link as opposed to the side like modern welded chain

[@ChristCenteredIronworks]

The main reason is that it is easier to weld up that way. the second reason is that the weld doesn't take as much stress that way under load.

[@fredcole4409]

I just made 10' of 3/8 chain .... It's a journey for sure... I sure could have used this tool.. I will for the next 10'

[@idothings6685]

Would this be something my 5 year old daughter can make? I want to gift her her first anvil and give her some easy projects to do and this looks great.

[@MrJamesjustin]

I love your work mate.

[@LowlanderNurse]

Can you use just an angle grinder to create grooves?

[@Elaphae]

That was a really informative video. Did I miss one where you explain the green tape on some tools?

[@ChristCenteredIronworks]

It's just Roy's way of keeping track of his tools when he demonstrates at clubs and such. Thanks for watching! ~Jessica

[@nrgmgmt01]

Anxious to see you make the first Blacksmith Virtual Block Chain...Watch out Bitcoin, Roy is on the Chain Gang!

[@manga12]

would not the torch have been an appropriate to heat the area quicker for the bend? also it was a good idea that you told us the one hammer is a soft face otherwise people might have made the mistake especially for beginner smiths, most dont mention the striking hammer is soft faced

[@danchan7116]

I just spent over a week refacing an old 1800s 80lb hay budden anvil, it was severely broken and had no real face left, the center was eroded past the hardened material and it was missing a large section at the hardy hole. I bevelled the top at as steep of an angle as I could and had a piece of ar500 armor plate wet laser cut to fit the top and a small piece for the step. I was able to get a complete weld from the under side (very tedious..). I took my time so as not to heat the top too much. After the experience I think i should have just bought a new anvil. Do you think i will have any issues with internal stress due to the welding process? I used 3/32 and 1/8 7018 rods, I ran them very very hot to burn out impurities and to offset the heat sinking of the anvil body.

[@danchan7116]

You have some of the best forging videos on youtube. Im glad I found you. Between you and 'This Old Tony', I don't watch much else.

[@enrip.6540]

Thank you very much, I'm learning a lot from your vids!

[@brettsayers7768]

another excellent tool there Roy and a huge task of making a huge length of chain

[@londiniumarmoury7037]

Nice.

[@dicksargent3582]

Check out this video and the tooling used. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4vRZ3uJqrRgjLs

[@andymumford8523]

the cross peen on my hammer is realy sharp should i grinde it down if so then how high a grit should it be

[@chiwizdu1]

Andy Mumford , as long as your anvil isn't very small and you work at a reasonable pase your anvil should be fine. And you could manage with a sharper peen in you angle it to widen the groove, but if you want to gring it, an 80 grit slack belt finish is plenty, any scratches will be removed with use, the same for any polishing. Alternatively, you could make a set hammer, which has one end in the shape of the mark you want to make, and on the other end a unhardened face that you strike upon. A set hammer does not need to be heavy, either. You could also make a hand fuller (chisel with a peen shape instead of a cutting edge)

[@coffeesstudios2122]

Are you using tool steel for the chain or just mild steel? Great stuff sir.

[@shortfuse43]

He mentioned that he uses mild steel for both the tool and the chain links.

[@jesusgzz6914]

Question, do you temper those rings? Or no?

[@whilomforge3402]

I’m sure he used mild steel, plus he’s probably not using this chain for hard use.

[@andymumford8523]

will the heat mess with the face of the anvil

[@whilomforge3402]

No.