Challenging Process: How Will We Get Our 50ft Sailboat Hull Fair? - Ep. 381 RAN Sailing

[@Bakin]

Few people are as dedicated and focused as you, your wife and of course Vera! Go TEAM!

[@johnbryant72]

I really thought I would be dropping your channel when you announced selling your boat and moving to a farm. Because of the quality of your videos, the detailed information you share, not just what you are doing but why and how, I now look forward to your videos more than when you were sailing around. Thank you for another very good episode, great to see the progress.

[@pkane5472]

What a lovely comment!

[@Alan-qk6ld]

The soulful sound of the trumpet playing really sums up how hard you’re endeavours will be. I wish I was there to help you Johan but at 76 years old, I fear I would just get in the way😢 always enjoy your detailed content. Jones, over do things and take regular breaks away from the tedium. Good luck.👍

[@cvwhite52]

From a safety point of view, you may want to consider what the Duracell Project is doing while mixing in the filler. They mix in the filler in the confines of a larger cardboard box with a vacuum hose inserted into the base of the box

[@judd_s5643]

I absolutely agree, I’ve mixed up a lot of micro-balloons and epoxy and the spheres go everywhere. You must not breathe these into your lungs. It may not get you now put it eventually will. When dealing with resins, micro and fiberglass it is vitally important to wear personal protection equipment. Most people do not realize that the a typical gloves people use are not an affective barrier after a few minutes. Plastics, vinyl, rubber is permeable, that is, the chemicals will migrate thru given time. When I was building fiberglass airplanes I did extensive research to find a glove that provided protection. There is not one! The only glove I found was one that looks similar to what a bakery worker uses to pick up the one you want. These gloves would provide 1 hour protection but lacked the tactile response when you’re pulling on fibers (keep orientation correct). My solution was the 6mm nitrile gloves but I changed them every 10min. I would go thru a box in a large layup. Some may say that’s extreme, but the reality is your body can and will accept chemical’s without any noticeable effect. Think of it like this. Your body has chemical bucket, once you fill the bucket with the chemical your body will respond. Once it’s full even smelling the chemical will trigger a response. I personally know many aircraft builders who became sensitive to the chemicals in the resins and had to abandon there projects even after years of work. The typical body response was a rash everywhere you sweat. Crotch, in between your toes etc. hopefully you get the picture it is not pretty nor comfortable. I had a friend have a response just standing in the doorway of my hanger.

[@angela1984a]

@@ross82 I honestly do not understand what you mean here. What do you mean?

[@robm.4512]

@@judd_s5643I did a lot of lightweight composites work in the motorsports industry, then later on in the marine industry. You and I have obviously been down the same path to try and find the answers to avoiding contact sensitisation, like you I went with nitrile gloves because they provided better grip and tactile properties. The one thing that I did to both improve their performance and help with keeping stray fibres and previous resin mixes from contaminating the next layup was to double glove both hands, peeling off the outer gloves and replacing them with new ones for each fresh resin mix or as soon as they were notably contaminated. I’d certainly agree with the OP on filler media handling, it’s really got to be done in an extracted box to avoid the media getting airborne in the wider volume of the room. Also, I won’t open a container of filler media or handle it in any way without masking and suiting up, the stuff’s concentrated nasty in the long run. Cheers, R.

[@secretsquirrel6308]

Limiting rpms while mixing helps a lot. More importantly, slower mixing speeds do not crush the micro balloons. The latter was a problem when the micro ballons first came out. I do not know if that has been remedied. (I was chemist for Dynatron/Bondo at the time. We discovered slower mixing speed was key when using micro balloons.)

[@secretsquirrel6308]

Limiting rpms while mixing helps a lot. More importantly, slower mixing speeds do not crush the micro balloons. The latter was a problem when the micro ballons first came out. I do not know if that has been remedied. (I was chemist for Dynatron/Bondo at the time. We discovered slower mixing speed was key when using micro balloons.)

[@boomerangfishact6754]

It‘s Friday. RAN is back!

[@jeanneauowners]

Congratulations Johan and Malin on getting RAN3 to the next stage! Made me feel tired just watching that sanding! Malcolm

[@ChuckScheaffer]

TotalBoat makes a great fairing compund called, Total Fair. It's my favorite, Only two parts, blue and yellow and you easily know when it's mixed thoroughly. It sands easy and leaves a waterproof layer on the fiberglass.

[@martyhandley4456]

Total Fair is an amazing product, always perfect consistency

[@markpalmer5311]

@@martyhandley4456 I second that. I had a great experience with it, albeit on a boat approximately 1/10th the size of RAN!

[@dantoddruns]

Total Boat does not have a European distributor yet. They are working on it from what I heard. They needed to use a product they could consistently get in their area of Europe.

[@ChuckScheaffer]

If I could, I'd contact TotalBoat and ask them to either sponsor Ran Sailing or make him a distributor. Best quality sailboat build on KZbin.

[@donaldklapproth8091]

JOHAN. YOUR making wonderful progress and it's very visible to us your followers. This part of making the body fair. Smooth is a tough job with much upper body moves no one is use to at the level of a 50 ft boat! Can you imagine a car painter fairing out 25-30 cars in a row ? That's what you've got ahead but the results will be your reward. Wecant wait but we feel your pain. FWCS⛵️⛵️

[@dougo5635]

no fear of working hard with this fine fellow, I'm in awe

[@petegraham1458]

I have been there done that. My advice is the filler should be just enough viscosity not to show any sagging after 15 minutes, we would add tint to the different coats pastel colors so during long boarding you could keep track easily, we would also do a scratch sand coat using coarse grit to show the real high points on the first few coats so you don’t waste effort sanding only to have to fill spots you could see quite soon into the sanding , you can top up the real low spots before the sanding of the whole application.

[@matthewprather7386]

Great advice! 36-40 grit paper works for the initial shaping…

[@judd_s5643]

I would tint subsequent coats too! It's the only way to tell how your progressing.

[@meinmaine9138]

So much progress! My shoulders ache thinking about all this hard work. You both are truly amazing. Hooray for spring!

[@capnfrankly]

Love the explanations, they are clear, lucid, informative and enjoyable. Well done !👍

[@williamnicol2779]

Johan & Malin you are both amazing boat builders, can't wait till you flip your boat over. Great job Bill Niagara falls, Canada

[@linneasailing]

😮 so much surface to fair! You guys are awesome to tackle this part of the project with such enthusiasm!

[@johnbaxter8569]

I'm with you Malin. A kitchen garden is so important and provides lots of goodies to cook with. That looks like a lot of hard work Johan. Have a lovely weekend...

[@John-Nada]

I like chives and chopped swiss chard sauteed in butter for omelets. Those deer will eat every leaf of chard in a single night though.

[@jamesbillington5058]

My arms and shoulders are sore just from watching this. 😁Would it be helpful to have volunteers come out and help you both?

[@judd_s5643]

Not a good idea unless you closely watch them. My experience is with aircraft structures, and you had to be extremely careful you didn't sand thru a layer. If you don't do it right, it will end up looking like a sack of walnuts. I would say this fairing is the least critical from a safety perspective but if not done right some marinas may reject you! smile

[@tmossberg]

I’ve known skilled body workers who barely do any sanding. They apply a thin layer, knock it down, apply another thin layer, knock it down and by the time they get to their third or fourth layer it’s smooth.

[@philgray1023]

I was watching a rendering team working on a large commercial building. There was one guy who clearly was the man. The other guys did a lash up and he just came afterwards and left perfection in every surface he touched. He had the magic hands.

[@aculous1146]

can we just appreciate the initial track selection in the intro? fantastic.

[@BillChild2njoy]

Following every step and enjoy your input re tools and materials. I am glad you don't go into too many details about either. You seem to have a handle on it.. Molly too.. Lots of work ALL round for a couple with a young child... Congrats and I don't think anyone would be upset if you might want or need another pair of hands, arms, back and mind at some points to come.. It's ok my friend. 😊😊😊😊😊

[@frankmaree54]

I am so impressed with your skills and knowledge with your project and will continue to watch all future episodes, keep up the great work Frank

[@ianbost193]

Johan will be body-builder RIPPED when this is over haha. Love seeing your daughter in the episodes too, she reminds me of my daughters at that age!

[@kscipkkkk]

Johan will completely understand the term “No pain no gain” before this job is over for both himself and the boat!

[@randall39]

When I faired my hull, I found that if I wanted enough time to apply the filler properly I needed a slower set time. It really made a difference in how much sanding effort was needed. 😊

[@rickowens4397]

This brings back bad memories. I have faired two boats, essentially by myself. A 36x12 ft (11x4m) powerboat and a 48x 32ft (15x10m) catamaran. No bulging muscles, tendonititis in my elbows still after 35 years. Looks like you need to grind down the overlaps. I know, fiperglass/epoxy dust is worse then epoxy dust, but that is what you choose for a building material. Deal with it. It won't weaken the hull. Trowl on, with a 12"(300mm) drywall knife, only a thin, fairly runny mixture. it will thicken as you work it. The fairing compound will act as a guide coat by the difference in colour. You are looking to identify the lows with that first coat. Subsequent coats will be to fill in the highlighted lows. Good luck.

[@keessturm2804]

Next chapter in this great boat build, it looks like a challenge but i'm convinced you will find/develop a good working method that suits you. Thanks for sharing this adventure!

[@Rsama60]

I am not worried at all. Johan is really good to takle a process step in a structured way. He will have it optimized in no time.

[@robinhodgkinson]

I used 407 on my first boat but 410 on my second! 407 does create a slightly harder finish but is way harder to sand compared to 410! Time has proven that was a good decision. Good luck. Notched trowels - great. Initially use a power tool to take off the obvious high spots and lumps of compound. Use 40 grit on your longboards - rip it off. You’ll be putting more on and using finer grades on the next round. You won’t fair your boat well in one go, bow to stern. And trying to finish it in sections sounds perilous. Be prepared to waste some resin and compound - yes it makes expensive dust, but that’s the fairing process. 😁 Make sure to crosshatch your strokes- you’ll develop a good efficient routine.

[@svkusi]

The most satisfying video ever. Peeling peel ply off is so satisfying.

[@MrPaulcm1]

You guys are doing such a great job. It's a hard task that you've taken on, but the outcome will be truly rewarding. You guys have such determination and vision, very inspirational. Love your vlogs. :)

[@79cd36]

A few miles on the treadmill feels like vacation as I watch you labor with the sanding board. Strength and stamina to you!

[@craigkepchar2619]

It's always great to see the whole family together. Boat projects are good, but seeing your lovely daughter playing is so much fun. I hope you get lots of delicious food from the garden, it always tastes so much better. You are going to look really buff by the time you finish the fairing. Make sure you get some good rub downs at night after the work.

[@DaleShirley-o1u]

Really informative and may I add a truly full ( filling ) episode great video!

[@bobstephens410]

Total Fair spreads like butter

[@drop_dtuned6167]

Loved the trumpet music at the end. Slow paced tempo but moving forward. Matching nicely with the task at hand. Well done!

[@geoffhurwitch2131]

I would apply the filler w/o any serated/ridged edge. You're introducing more work. Ridges are great for bonding, not fairing. Also, you could use the DA just use the blocking method. 45deg angle, work left to right at 45deg, then come back from the right end at 90deg from that original 45 and forming an "X" pattern on the side of the boat. Use long strokes.

[@Cailloujj]

Tout à fait d'accord, je n'ai jamais vu étaler du mastic avec une spatule à bord dentelé, c'est comme en carrosserie automobile et même en bâtiment pour certain enduits

[@matthewprather7386]

The block needs to be long enough to avoid the problem Johan described - leaving the high areas high and low areas low. The long block bridges over the peaks and valleys making their presence obvious and allowing you to achieve a hull shape has long, continuous curves with no shallow hills or valleys.

[@frankstocker5475]

Total fair you won't regret it.

[@kerrymettert8962]

It appears this fairing is a daunting task. However, you are still trying to figure out the best method and knowing how you are you will come up with a good solution. You are an excellent problem solver. Keep up the good work 💪

[@judd_s5643]

It is a daunting task! I’ve faired in wings of man-rated airplanes. It’s a lot of work, it terrible work. It’s the absolutely the worst job of fiberglass. You take a straight edge and a marker, identify the low spots, apply filler, let cure, sand and repeat. Your arms will feel like rubber, the respirator restricts your breath. I eventually got one of those full face respirator that would provide filtered outside air to your face. It keeps a positive pressure so no local contamination gets inside. Well worth the investment.

[@stevegem4155]

I've used epoxy mixed with micro balloons, and I've used total fare fairing compound . I would absolutely recommend that you get some total fair. It sands way easier than the epoxy 👍. And it's much easier to mix , no guess work.

[@WayOfHaQodesh]

Excellent music this episode. Loved the garden segment. I look forward to seeing the next episode. Thank you for all your hard work, all of you.

[@ScotChef]

The leviathan is starting to look impressive. 👌🏻✊🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@mattcarroll106]

One chapter closes,only to open another one.really interesting videos!

[@Brenda-vz5tn]

My husband had a business repairing sailboats. While I don't know the recipe, I have heard him teach many people to mix in the microbubbles to get the consistency of toothpaste.

[@oliverf944]

the notch and trowel technique, as an apprentice boat builder i had the epiphany of this technique and used it successfully. it wasn't something we had seen down before. Your hull is fair. you could apply the epoxy micro balloons filler in a more viscous state with a fibre roller. add a small amount of silica fiber with the micro balloons will stop it flowing off the vertical surfaces. you will be surprised how much can be applied with a paint roller in a more viscous state. I typical mix the filler 1/3 silica fibe to micro balloons. the filler has a more creamy texture and easier to work with.

[@larsskipper1529]

Consider using slow hardener and apply wet in wet, so no sanding in between. First apply the mas fast, then spatula 5 mm teeth. Then use the long spatula. Drag all off leaving only the tracks. Wait until cured to sticky. Fill all the tracks and scrape off again. Keep an eye on the top spots not to apply there, but only a thin layer to keep it wet. Wait until sticky then apply a new mass, spatula teeth 1-2-3mm. Wait until sticky fill again the tracks. Scrape of with the long spatula. More thin with layers using the reflective surface. Good luck. Reply or send me a pb, I live in Copenhagen. Love you project 👍

[@PaulVance-i4h]

Total Fair mix’s and applies quicker. Sands easier than west system with fillers. Big job good luck.

[@MrCrabbing]

Flippin heck your going to end up like Asterix by the time your done fairing, I bet she is going to look mighty smooth

[@AustinBoil]

I haven't faired a boat but show quality paint prep on cars. The basics still apply to get a very straight finish. 1. Spray guide coats - any flat black spray paint works 2. Always sand at 45º angles (important) 3. Low & high areas will be obvious 3. Wipe with wax & grease remover & have bright lights shining on the area you are looking at. Keep it wet while inspecting at a little distance. 4. More guide coat 5. Repeat over & over until you are satisfied with it or sick & tired of sanding 🤣 I think applying the fairing with a smooth spatula will make it easier in the long run. On cars it takes hundreds of hours to get a perfectly flat surface so keep at it, it will pay off in the long run.

[@robertdoer]

Hi Johann, i have some experience in Fairing surfaces of boats and working with the 407 (I love this stuff). If i may give two advices... forget about the spatula wit the teeth, and forget about the graphite powder, wich might be useful in later finishing stages. Find the right consistency of the 407 (that you seem to have already) and try to apply a thick layer with the long spatula that also covers the higher spots. Then you grind and once you see the higher spots beginning (!) to shine through, you stop and look were the 407 is not grinded besides. It has still that shine like Chocolatmousse. You mark this ares with a circle, roughen and clean them, and then you add 407 to these areas. All the best. I love what you do. Its very satisfying just to watch you. You are an excellent craftsman!

[@MacomberArtProjects]

its crazy how interesting this is watch. I was sad when this was over. :) Keep up the good work. I love watching you learn and discover these processes. :)

[@andersholt4653]

Weekend is saved with another update from RAN III. The progress is slow but steady. Remember that Rome wasn't built in a day. It's also good to see that the garden "Inspector" is still working hard to keep her subjects in line. Thanks for sharing. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.

[@stefantornblom1555]

It is faster to apply a thicker layer of putty than scraping it to thin. To get a fair surface you want to sand in only one material. If you have spots of hard laminate the sandpaper will sand off the softer putty that will create an uneven surface.

[@MrCrabbing]

Yes that first section of hull is looking great already

[@vikimoody8783]

You’re doing a great job! People don’t usually build their own boats-like they don’t usually build their own houses! BUT! People do it! And if it’s really hard- they figure it out, step by step! You are doing an excellent job thinking out each step and moving through it! “Me from the stands giving you a huge 🎉 HOORAY 🎉

[@twowheelrodeo]

In auto body one philosophy is apply less sand less, reapply less or how much is needed. Really Great Job on the fiberglass!

[@raymondnybakk1311]

From what I have seen on many other KZbin channels, Total fair from Total Boat is the way to go.

[@americanbornwalkaway9110]

You are going to BUILD that Upper Body!!!! Awesome to See this Happen You are doing a Great Job!!!!!

[@TheMusicrox4]

I would suggest having a drywall professional finisher come in and give you some tips.

[@wildlifewalkswithcountryge749]

Could possibly save weeks of hard work, to get a smooth finish to start with👍

[@Arnaud58]

At first glance, that might be useful, were it not that they are used to flat surfaces...and on a hull you don't want that at all.👴😉

[@philgray1023]

​@@Arnaud58You know they are so specialised that some specifically do curved and rounded, others will only do flat. I had a hard plaster guy who was one of the few that would do strange angled walls. Would never quote on a job, just tells you, hourly rate and as much material as required. He was so fast it was unbelievable. His finish so good you virtually didn't need sanding.

[@Arnaud58]

@@philgray1023 So not "'...a drywall professional finisher...", but a specialized one. that makes it a lot harder to find one..👴🤷‍♂

[@gerryneckebroeck]

Hey Johan, I whish you loads of sanding courage!!!

[@dmiller9786]

I'm exhausted from just watching. I'll use the weekend to recover.

[@robw2379]

You probably have already come up with these ideas already but.... - Mix your compound thinner. You have mashed potatoes viscosity. Go for greek yogurt.... just thick enough to not sag. - Get your hands on 410 instead of 407. Way easier to sand, and that will make a ton of difference over that huge hull. - If you continue with the notched trowel technique, use a trowel with thinner notches spaced more widely. Good luck, and pace yourself.

[@arendzen]

Longboarding! I seem to remember the sailor Hugh Marriott talking about fairing his hull after osmosis treatment, when in Australia during a round the world voyage, saying to the boatyard "I'm told I need a longboard" to which they answered "Oh no, you really don't."

[@MikeC19100]

That's a whole lot of surfaces to apply fairing compound onto. It had to be done and it looked like the long two-handed spatula did a respectable job near the end of the video. Perhaps it was helpful to use the extra thickened material on the bow since there are so many overlapping layers. Hopefully, the rest of the hull will be simpler, and you can use a thinner layer to get the hills and valleys leveled out. By the end of this labor-intensive task, you might be able to manually pick your farm equipment, or your car up and then move it wherever you want.

[@richardburton5616]

Aaaaargh! I remember using that brown stuff to fair a 20ft keel boat 30 years ago. It was so difficult to sand. I now think if you want something truly fair you have to go over it 3 times. Then I got to thinking about using modern decorating filler with micro balloons already mixed as there is so much epoxy on the hull already. It’s simple to sand; and you can almost get away with 1 sheet of abrasive for the whole day! My thinking is that the resultant fair surface is moderately porous, so your subsequent coatings will bind it to the surface of the boat.

[@tmossberg]

It should be primarily an additive process, faring the hull The different layers of glass have obvious high spots and low spots. Start at those places, filling 2 the low spots and going 2/3 of the way across to the next high spot give that a light sanding and repeat you go. You should be able to get the hull 60% fair before you start long boarding It will save a lot of epoxyand a lot of sanding

[@tommyedodson2412]

just an eye opener as to how much work goes into building your own boat. incredible and kudos to you two as you follow your dream.

[@timsecord8207]

With all the sweat equity in that boat, it will be priceless! What an incredible journey you've embarked on!❤

[@chrisgraythereal]

"weeks, hopefully not months..." I suspect you are going to be disappointed there. It'll be fun for the rest of us, watching Johan turn into a musclebound drudge as midsummer approaches. Good luck with it, hell of a thing to take on and I have nothing but respect for you all.

[@billkaroly]

Watch out for tiny little holes in your fairing compound. I seem to remember that mads at sail life really hated that stuff.

[@davidnichols147]

Johann: Don McNamara had a 1965 Bill Luders designed 54ft aluminum sloop built for SORC. While in Highschool I worked at North Shore Boat Works in Revere, Massachusetts. McNamara hauled Tara and micro ballooned the bottom for the Marblehead to Halifax race. He had a crew of 8 taking 2 months to fair and paint. You have certainly taken on a job here my friend, we all wish you great success. We worked in shifts 24-7.

[@paloureiro]

Maybe you could do a pre-sanding of the obvious higher spots - like the edges of the fiberglass cloth. After that, you would begin applying the fairing compound. It would be less work and less danger to your health,

[@britboy20002]

Hi Guys! Some top tips from the pros who have faired my hulls. Your compound consistency of your second layer was about right, maybe a little thicker. Apply fewer, thicker layers of compound as when you use multiple layers the epoxy from the new layer leaches into the old layer as pure epoxy and makes it harder to sand and just gets worse with more layers, we used one thick layer (3-5mm?), sanded and had minimal patching to do on the second layer, yes lots of compound gets sanded away. They never used the notch trowel method. You can start with power sanding using a big 200 mm disk machine, this will take most of the high spots off if moved around well then use the long boards for the last 60-70% of fairing. I can’t remember which compound they used below the water line but is different to that on the top sides as it is less affected by water absorption over time. Sanding of the glass before fairing will give a better bond for the compound a light run with 40 grit, just to scratch up the surface. After the compound is mixed up, spread out over a large table/metal plate to allow some of the heat to dissipate, this will give you a longer working time on the hull. Hope these tips help out, using them made our fairing a relatively painless process. Good luck

[@chrismonroe8582]

Your calm and intelligence in your processes always impresses me. I have often wondered what it would be like to work with those long boards and now I feel like I should try thanks to you. Best of luck with the garden too!

[@tamar5261]

Well done, it's a daunting job to do with just two people. But she's starting to look good.

[@OnTourWithPattiSmith]

Oh Glorious Sanding 💯 T-shirts available online.

[@dannettepeters1507]

Whew!! I am sure you are going to figure it out, but my golly this is the start of yet another daunting phase! It is beyond amazing, how far you have come! Can hardly wait until next Friday!

[@allsearpw3829]

Hi , great work , you have baked the cake , now for the marzipan , I take it is going to be Royal icing as a cover coat. Who needs sails ? Rowing with those shoulders , whilst Vera beats out the pace on her drum . This is going to be one fantastic sail boat .

[@dannyknox4314]

A garden - can’t wait to see that grows. I bet your 4 legged patrons out in the field will be waiting to see what’s on the menu.

[@Lifesgood427]

This is a considerable task, I admire you both for your tenacity, good luck!

[@arkansasboy45]

You are so right, in that your shoulders are going to take a real beating in this next phase, so take care of yourself.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

This must be the most tedious job of the whole build. You’ll need some helping hands for sure! But it’s also interesting to see how you manage it - so that I can do it right eventually as well. Also, those deers are keen to see your garden to grow… 😋😝

[@yachticus]

think about the tensioning system used to distribute the load of a windscreen wiper. a well proven system to transfer point loading across a wider path

[@ehofman7636]

Wow big job sanding good for the mussels 💪💪it’s work with a long brush mind on zero en keep going.

[@tarivard]

Yeah...that looks super fun for superman maybe?

[@Tomm9y]

The fairing is no less a challenge than the other projects so far. I'm sure Johan will work out the best combination. Perhaps you need to invite the local footbal team over for some winter work sessions, they would have it done in a jiffy! Good to see you planned kitchen garden, they are a great source of food and of peaceful activity together.

[@davidzaharik5408]

Wow... your work is exhausting me! Loving your videos and progress...

[@LPay-jy8mx]

Phew! That looks like a full, complete body workout. Wishing a speedier sanding adventure and lovely garden to you, beautiful family! Lee

[@hecdc305]

The planking and fiberglass work is excellent. You have both worked very hard to build a very strong and stout hull which will benefit you in rough seas. Keep up the great work.

[@darrylmcleman6456]

Time for MADS!!! CHEERS from HERE!

[@arnekvinge6073]

O Glorius sanding!

[@lupindeweir]

The reward for a job well done? More work! Congrats on a milestone!!

[@oldshad65]

Happy Groundhog Day. It's fitting that you finished glassing on this day as it had taken a continuous, repetitive quality like the Groundhog Day movie. Relief for all!. Nice job.

[@jumboon]

I'd suggest apply the filler from down up. And may be a slower hardener will allow you to work with the long flexy stuff and spread the correct amount of filler more easily and evenly . Good luck. You are doing a super good job 👍!

[@clivedixon6287]

Have you looked at the way Fram fairedhis hulls on his tri maran? Piping beads to get the correct height by sanding back and then filling in between!

[@chrisnelson5877]

Power board would get it done much faster if applied at right pressure. Also use spray paint over the expoxy to show the highs and low spot when sanding.

[@jayhays9192]

There are drywall sanders that can give you a large surface area that you need . It will only grow your shoulders two to three times, but if want to fair the hull the old way ….. well maybe four or five times then and ten times the time. Look into it . I’m sure it will help. Cheers🥃

[@RANSailing]

I have a drywall sander like that, and unfortunately the disc isn’t that large, only 225mm. Cheers!

[@WayneSmith-yf3fg]

You may have done this already, but , you should talk to a 'Plasterer". The people that plaster walls are essentially doing the same thing. Over the years, I have learned when finishing drywall, thinner layers are better. The more you put on, the more you have to sand off to get a smooth finish.

[@mntnbiker818]

Wow, I admire all your hard work and your daughter is going to have some amazing stories to tell. On a completely unrelated note, the imagery of your farm and eating breakfast together is eerily reminiscent of the movie Lamb.

[@K_Grude]

The purpose of the toothed applicator is to control the thickness of the initial application. This avoids having very thick, or too thin areas. Enjoying your videos very much.

[@larrytemres1712]

I'm thinking that the deer are more excited about that garden than Maiin!!

[@amham48]

Fascinating! I have little knowledge about boating let alone crafting one's own unique build. However, your dedicated and very hard work effort keeps me "glued" to your episodes! Keep up the effort, we are all behind you.

[@SB-nt9fp]

Having just fared my 40' hull, one thing I would say is this, use a pre-thickened epoxy faring compound. Not sure what you can get in Sweden though. Makes life way easier and saves a ton of time.

[@scottshure3389]

Looking forward to next week

[@glenntaylor5638]

Fairing just seems so unfair! The laborious effort required after so much prior smooth construction. Just keep in mind that one day this irksome task will be in the long past and you'll be enjoying a glorious sunset after a day's perfect sailing!

[@bobsails9750]

Thanks very much