change brake pads and rotors on a dakota

[@awesomecowboy]

I just did this brake job on my truck after watching this video. God bless people like you who take the time to post videos like this, I would have never attempted this without this kind of instruction. Thanks!

[@tonytiger7435]

glad you had a problem with the rust and all shows how to be patient and get all the old parts off and reassembled.. thanks for the video

[@wesurbanski6815]

I want to commend you for all the courage it must take to post how to videos, being handicap and all. It is truly inspiring to watch someone with mental disabilities take on a job,and finish it, that most men (with full cognitive function) wont even touch.

[@GuitmanChris78]

Thanks. I just did my 2002 dodge dakota r/t. Your video really helped me figure out that chinese puzzle. The caliper wouldn't come off at first, then I watched you pry the retaining clip. I tried it.. and presto, 30 seconds later, everything was off. Great help.. Thanks!

[@cougar1a]

Buy a flat head screwdriver or a small pry bar and a bigger c-clamp, Thank you for taking the time to make this help video..wasn't sure how the clip went back on...I did get it right but wanted to make sure

[@kellmunroe6050]

Nice video, used it to complete my 2004 Dakota and was able to save a little $$. Thanks for your effort..

[@mikecraft5851]

The bleeder screw does not need to be opened, the brake reservoir cap needs to be taken off before you depress the caliper. Taking the cap off of the reservoir allows the fluid to flow up through the lines so there is no pressure on them and does not let air back into the lines. Its best to also siphon a small amount of fluid out of the reservoir before you compress the caliper so it doesn't overflow during compression and out a heavy rag or towel around the reservoir just in case it does overflow.

[@Andy152R]

Good video, although you don't need those factory retention clips for the rotor. The lugs will pin it in place just fine. Those are just for line-assembly purposes.

[@mikecraft5851]

The retention ring on the one stud on the rotor was only put there to hold the rotor so it would not fall off while the truck continued down the assembly line.

[@notavailable9919]

if you use a c-clamp use the old brake pad as a foot to press the piston.

[@stvcotton]

So Josh. Like you i thought i needed to use the bleeder screw..right up until that 15 year sucker soon off in the socket. Then i thought...i also have a clamp. I used the old pad to spread the pressure was it worked like a charm. I looked at for two reasons. 1) what mm hex socket do i need? He answered it. 2) my rotor feels welded on, do other people best this thing off? And he answered it.

[@gutenanj]

Thank you for posting this

[@oscarlopez4451]

thank you very much for the video after watching it i was able to install it myself. but can you post a video for changing the rear shoes and drums for the same truck.

[@hawghunterify]

Thanks you helped me !

[@joshuacarey9367]

Bro the bleeder screw needs to be open. To do a video instructional video, you need the proper tools like a rubber mallet, channel lock pliers, possibly a small pry bar. You did it...! But it wasn't pretty. It was like the before part of a infomercial. And that Chinese puzzle piece is only funny the first time u say it. But,Your awesome for finishing.

[@csharpe94]

you dont need to leave the anti reverse clip in. thats just when its in the factory it keeps the rotor in place. the lugs and wheel will keep the rotor in place

[@lunchbox440]

Thanks!

[@wisconsineagle6241]

Well done. Could've shortened up this video bypassing some of the no brainier material like removing the brake pads & the rotor star lock & compressing the caliper.

[@Rammshtyn]

I could never make a video like this. All of the swearing would be unacceptable.

[@ianmaddog90]

what year is the vehicle

[@jodiveach9705]

Master cylinder is full no brakes and no leaks? ideas?

[@ottogranja3343]

bro 2b honest to u that video was good ya ya may b u used no the right tools but u did it..fuck ya too many times we dont have the money 4 get all that shit tools .. this video help m alot

[@Drummingwizkid]

THAT EFFING CLIP!!!!!...i hate that thing. It was such a bitch to put it back on.

[@jerryk8755]

Dont do it like this guy, he is doing alot wrong, like: (push the caliper piston in without opening bleeder screw & hammering on C clamp on a phenolic piston)

[@158mollie]

01 dakota 4.7 easy job

[@Mystery69]

that wing clamp is a son of a bitch, and as soon as I learned I needed a number 7 reverse hex, I threw my hands up and put the damn thing back together. Fail.

[@gutenanj]

OMG!

[@Ih8youlube]

lube, lube,lube......

[@MPMTMX]

SOOOO MANY BAD EXAMPLES of how to remove a wheel bearing assembly out here. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM WAS WRONG! I came to this rotor/brake pads video you shot and it showed me everything I needed to do! Do you know almost every video shows the 7mm that you show to remove the caliper as being either a 14mm or 21mm bolt! and stating you have to take the carrier off to get the wheel bearing off - your video makes it simple thanks removed/replaced my wheel bearings with the 2 caliper bolts (7mm) and one 36mm axle nut). ~ Mike.

[@Blackwolf45103]

My 1996 has bolts, 19mm, and the top one is directly behind the brake line. Can't get a 3/4 in ratchet in there.

[@vlastimilhejduk7347]

This guy never done it before, bc he did not know what is doing