changing fuel filters on a dt466 international 4900

In this video I show how to change the fuel filters on a 95 international 4900 with a mechanical dt466. The procedure is applicable up to 04 if you have the same filter housings. I attribute my successes to god and give him the glory.

[@edwardgonzalez5453]

I'm actually working on a 4900 DT466 1995 international and it keeps losing the prime the truck just usually sits as a fuel truck at the yard but I was watching your video and I had the same problems with the filters been on there for a while but when it has been easier to prime the filters with fuel first cuz I noticed that you kept on pumping and it took a while before you actually got anything coming out first time I ever seen anybody put filters out without prime in the filters how'd you make out

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

They prime fine that way it just takes longer to fill them. It’s a safer way to prime the system, I’ve pumped out some fuel into a jug from our fuel tank and there is little bits of sediment in the fuel. I’ve also gotten bits of sediment from the fuel station too. If you pour it directly into the center hole of the filter it is on the filtered side of the filter and will send it directly down to the fuel pump. The primary filter isn’t such a big deal because the second filter will catch it but if you get crap in the second filter and it gets sent down to the pump it can be a problem. The older fuel systems are a bit more forgiving but newer high pressure injection systems are much more intolerant to dirt going into the pump and injectors. I figure better safe then sorry.

[@martincastoe1587]

Hey Jason, great vid! I own a 1995 international box truck, and recently, my worker ran it low on fuel, and when he took it to the gas station to fill it with diesel, it wouldnt start after the fill. Do you think the fuel pump needs to be replaced? Or fo you think that its just air that needs to be bleed out. Thanks!!

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

I would try bleeding the air out first. If was running before he went to the pump there might be air in there. Trying to bleed it first is free but a pump can get expensive. I would prime it with the primer first and if it doesn’t start you will need to crack the injector lines one at a time at the injector and crank it until fuel comes out or it starts. You probably won’t have to do all of them to get it to run. If none of that works then you may have a bigger problem.

[@martincastoe1587]

​@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic YOU ARE THE MAN. I'll try this and let you know how it goes. Thanks Jason, I appreciate it!!

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

I was just thinking if you have rust in the tank it may have stirred up in the tank with the level low and clogged up the filter.

[@martincastoe1587]

@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I was thinking it was the fuel filter too, but I just replaced it yesterday and she still wont turn over. I'm going to have a mechanic try the steps you recommended and see if that works

[@maurojuan5667]

Does this process work the same when you change or clean out the fuel tank? On a 97

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

Here’s a video on changing a tank on a 95. International fuel tank replacement kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3TSaHmvoqalhJI I don’t believe I needed to bleed it. This process should be the same up until I think 05. If you have the same mechanical fuel pump and you run it out of fuel you may need to bleed the lines at the injectors.

[@maurojuan5667]

@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I didn't prime it afterwards maybe that's why it shut off after a minute

[@tommyhumkey1044]

What were the symptoms that caused you to change the filters?

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

There weren’t any symptoms that made me change the filters. I changed them as a general maintenance item. I believe this older design calls for them to be changed every 500 hours and the newer single cartridge filters are around 1000 hrs. This truck is a sander and does a lot of sitting for the summer so they usually all get changed around 500 hrs. Some symptoms could be hard starting and loss of power, and if really bad it could stall. These filer housing could leak air into them also so you should put a pressure gauge on it and verify your fuel pressure is good. I’ve seen the primary filter housing leak around the water in fuel sensor at the oring where it sticks through the top of the housing. I’ve also heard of the plastic cap at the bottom cracking and the orings leaking so there are a few places air can get in and can give similar symptoms. Thanks for watching.

[@how2374]

Hey my truck, international 4900 1997 smokes from the engine oil dipstick, a mechanic says the vent located at the back of the engine under the valve cover is the issue and must be opened and fixed, does that sound right?

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

There should be a vent coming out of the valve cover and running down the side of the engine as a long tube, it should just end at the bottom of the engine. It should just be a tube and I would be surprised if it was plugged, but it could be. There are a few reasons you would get smoke from the dipstick tube. One could be worn rings causing blow by, which would also be a pressure problem and could blow out seals and cause oil leaks. It will also blow out the dip stick plug. Another problem could be oil or coolant burning. If it’s just a small amount of smoke which is more like vapor then when the engine gets hot it is probably just oil burning off on the hot parts in the engine. I wouldn’t be terribly concerned about it but I would keep an eye on oil consumption. If you have the oil dipstick getting blown out and and a bunch of oil leaks starting you could have worn rings. As long as there is no pressure at the dipstick tube when you put you hand over it it should be ok. Just monitor fluids. I think the engine vent tube is at the back corner of the valve cover on the passenger side, you should be getting the smoke there too. You can check to see if it’s clogged but I don’t think it will be unless there’s an insect nest in there or something. It might be clogged on the inside of the valve cover but basically with the oil dipstick out it is a vent just like the one coming out of the valve cover so it will do the same thing. I’ve had a few trucks do it and never had any problems with them. It all depends on how much smoke or pressure is coming out.

[@how2374]

@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic thanks for replying, yes he got turn under the truck, and said there is a vent tube and it seems blocked from inside the engine because it's clear from below. Good thing is, there are no leaks under the truck. Seals, and all are drry. Exhaust is clear never smokes, and there isn't any loss of power. The engine was rebuild less than 20k miles ago. The truck doesn't get used much. Just sits most of the time, used more as a storage but now I do have a use for it so I decided get the all the fluids flushed. He put his hand over the dip stick and said no pressure and said it has to be the vent issue. But considering the amount of work to get to the vent is a necessity? According to this guy yes, he said don't take a a chance, could blow the engine. Also I noticed trace amounts of blowby below the engine on the rer right side of it...idk if that matters. The radiator fluid is clean too.

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

You definitely want a clear vent. They are for venting high crankcase pressure from the expanding gases and leaked cylinder pressures from blow by and turbo pressure that leaks by the rings. All engines leak a little past the rings. I know a clogged vent can cause oil leaks but I don’t know how it would blow an engine. There might be some baffles in the valve cover for the vent but I can’t really remember. I just remember about a 3/4 vent tube that went into the side of the valve cover. If it is plugged you would need to clear it. First thing I would do Is put a piece of hose on the vent tube and try to blow through to make sure it’s blocked. Does it have the dt466e? If you can see the steam under the engine towards the back I would say it’s coming from the vent and it’s clear. You shouldn’t have any pressure coming out at low rpms you usually get it at high rpm and boost. But I would try and blow in the vent first to see if it’s clear before I took it apart.

[@how2374]

@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Yes sir it is the DT466e. I wish you were here in Atlanta, I woould bring it to you! The light steam was visable at idel, parked.

[@EwePeople]

I have a 95 international Scholl bus with a dt466. Today was crank no start, could get it to run on a few squirts of either. It doesn't get used, I just start it once a week, last week was no problem starting and let it run for about an hour. It dropped down to 7° a few nights since last week. The filters haven't been changed since I got it. I'll be swapping the filters tomorrow, hopefully that does the trick. The primer on mine looks like a diaphragm with a center button instead of the cylindrical version on the truck in the video, the button leaked a small amount of fuel when I tried to prime it. Is that normal or does it need to be repaired? Also I noticed from your video, the springs that pull the throttle closed are missing on mine. How important are those? The throttle still seems to return to closed.

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

I’m not familiar with the primer you are describing but I would say if it’s leaking fuel it is a problem. If fuel can get out air can go in and i would imagine it can lose the prime and not start. These engines need good batteries to start because without a grid heater they need to crank over fast and if the batteries are weak they could struggle to start. I don’t know the history of the truck so I don’t know if the return springs were original or added by someone before me, but the pedal is actually pretty hard to push down. I think there are usually 2 return springs for a safety backup Incase one breaks.

[@EwePeople]

Thank for getting back to me. The filters haven't arrived yet so nothing has changed so far. I'll update after the filters are done.