Changing Your A/C's Contactor

[@katielyb]

This was by far the absolute best instructional video I've ever watched on KZbin. No unnecessary and lengthy talking which can be extremely frustrating, especially when your project needs to be completed in a timely manner. The emphasis on safety is of the utmost importance when working with electricity and always important to me. Having a clear view of what was happening while the narrator described each process and being completely in sync with the video was beyond fabulous. Finally, the narrator didn't speak to slowly or too fast. Thank you so much for taking the time to make and share this video on KZbin. I didn't hesitate to subscribe to your channel and genuinely appreciate the knowledgeable experience with easy step by step instructions.

[@jbarbee2151]

Thank you for including the order of breaker power on and off. I found out the hard way that the outside main breaker should be put in with the air handler shut off inside. It caused a short and I had to get a new part and try again. I have a two pole contactor, but it's really good to know that the wires should come off and on in a specific order. Thank you so much for your video! 😄

[@wiserdaley6624]

You're a very intelligent man. You execute your theme perfectly " Changing your A/C's contactor ". I have seen some KZbin videos regarding HVAC systems and I was so pissed with the bullshit misled information presented. Thank you for your understanding and clarity on the topic you highlighted.

[@ashleybluerose3440]

WoW! i just noticed a mistake very clearly but at the end corrected the error you put the yellow wire on the right and it goes to the left as you were putting back the cover i saw both wires on their right place thank you..

[@deemoe4636]

Yo you are right...

[@wiserdaley6624]

I wish to always come to this channel for information and clarification. If I could subscribe to your channel a million times I'd gladly do so. This is what I call a classic presentation.

[@matiasgonzalez1149]

Definetly just subscribed, I’m about to graduate next month and I’ve sure learned a lot from KZbin.

[@DSC800]

Very nice instructional, but you didn't discharge the capacitor first.

[@CoachTobyXL]

The last last diy guy tried and fried himself to death. LEAVE IT TO THE PROFESSIONALS!

[@victormendoza6306]

Great video good tutorial for making a A/C service at home

[@condor5635]

I accidentally attached the Line ins to the T side. doh! Really doesn’t matter they have the same number of spades on both ends so as long as you know where the wires are going and that they’re wired correctly your good. By the way on a single pole contactor the L1/T1 is the single pole side. The L2/T2 side is the shunt side. Good video

[@TheWilferch]

Not always.....I see the L1/T1 side....and the L2/T2 side.....to be EITHER shunt or with contact points.....depending upon the make and model of contactor.

[@thaddeuscorea]

Do you discharge the capacitor first? and how?

[@chickedwin7194]

Very nice video from audio to video camara

[@cvconnor]

what if you get the yellow line to the compressor and the black line to the compressor backwards?

[@rickeykeeton4770]

At 5:31 are those the same wires connected to the capacitor?

[@johnsmith-si7bj]

Good video. I have a question. I found that my low voltage pigtail from the thermostat to the contractor is loose and wobble and make a humming sound. My AC air is not that cold anymore. Do you think replace can solve the issue?

[@mikezimmerman2786]

just paid $229.00 for a contactor replacement during a routine service which was part of my maintenance contract.

[@jokerwildz100989]

Thank you so much. Saved me a lot of money

[@CoVaTennis]

any tips on if i hear a “clicking” sound (presumably the contactor?) at the condenser unit when setting the thermostat to cool and/or turning thermostat to off? I hear the click and the condenser/compressor stay off

[@JH-zb8or]

excellent video thanks.

[@1005618]

no problem here but Thank YOU for your input on this

[@getcooljamaica_]

Cool cool well done

[@okc405sfinest]

First we will take a picture for reference

[@ozusozudogruinsan]

You removed all the wires at once and did not label them and you will not be able identify which was which anymore...

[@iPhoneAppReviewer]

The schematic contains all the labeling for the wires by color.

[@jimmmorrison8373]

verygood thanks sr.

[@enzore8797]

Certo che il cablaggio dei fili si commenta da solo fermo restando la funzionalita del prodotto.

[@sguaraggi1]

How can I find out if it's a 30 or 40 amp contact, there's no label on mine

[@ericradloff12]

Your website doesn't appear to be working anymore. Just FYI.

[@cmhvacr1010]

I saw a guy in the parts store trying to get a contactor once he told me his contactor was bad, I knew he was just equipment owner I asked him why he says his contactor was bad, he said well when I push it in it turns on but it dosnt push in by its self, I said why don't you check the 24v at the coil, he said well no the contactor is 240v not even knowing about the coil than the store worker refused to sell him it lol, but to be fair I don't think he was going to sell him it anyways

[@crforfreedom7407]

I was watching this schematic tutorial for HVAC students here kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKnad62elr-gnbs and save for the 24v lines, he has everything wired to the reverse of both the way my contactor is wired and the way the tutorial is explained. Care to imput?

[@cmhvacr1010]

that video shows a single pole contactor, so using L1 L2 as the line power to the motor/compressor, L1 is going through a set of normally open contacts that close once the k1 coil is energized, L2 is going through a closed contact meaning its always going to be closed so really its just like a clean way of connecting the wires, L1 is the contact u need to close to start the load, sorry but I don't understand what u mean reversed that picture shows whats on the schematic as far as we can tell, I don't mind explaining any thing i just don't really understand what ur asking bud

[@crforfreedom7407]

Seriously; thanks for bothering with a rookie. I love this stuff, but as an ex-nail bender and current IT enterprise manager, just starting to understand it. I've got a 30+ YO system I plan on having upgraded soon (if I can manage an extra year or 2? Great. If I trash it? Oh well) that isn't working well, so frankly; I'm just playin and trying to learn what I can. Have to say it's fascinating! Surprised you guys don't need a degree for this for all you have to know. Seriously. Anyway.... Enough a$$ kissing (but I mean it)...... Changed out my fan motor on the outside condenser unit, capacitor tested great. Job done. Contactor points a bit burnt, so I thought I'd do a quick "maintenance" $15 service and change it. Took a pic before I started (wish they'd stop telling people to rely on that) and wired it just like the old one. Some of it doesn't make logical sense to me, but OK. The mistake I made was going by the pic and tried putting my 24v back like the pic instead of thinking. My poles were the older LT side, new were split left and right. Something happened on startup, but I fried my fan limit control switch; fan side squalls continuously on the om tester. So I said Fk the pic, lets look at a schematic. In this video, he's got his common jump going from the contactor to the capacitor on the continuous side, where mine and in the link I gave it's on the switch side. Does it matter? Same with which side T1 and T2 are on. I've got 10-2 coming in; black continuous, white on the contact. For the comp it had the black on the contin. with red on the contact. Yellow jump to common between cap and contact (red/top). It also had originally the fan motor lead on the black feed at the bottom. That didn't make sense. Anyway, this guys set-up is completely opposite of mine; his black/red are flipped on continuous/contact sides, and has the jump between cap and contactor on the continuous side, not on the contact side like the video and mine has. Just confusing the hell out of me......

[@cmhvacr1010]

Crfor Freedom so what’s happening with ur u it is it turning on at all, or is just the outdoor fan not coming on or what, wire the contactor like it’s written on the schematic and don’t worry about what the other videos say, 24v wires going to the coil and l1 l2 on ether always closed contact and normally open contact,

[@crforfreedom7407]

Yeah thanks Cm, I've been researching all night, and that's the conclusion I've come to. Solid advice. No; I got nothing. Got a real hot electrical smell like the motor burning up inside when I had both 24v wires on the same side of the contact. Om tested the limit switch; limit side tested ok, fan side squalled continuously. So from my research that's bad? It definitely seems to be the source of the burnt smell. I think I have it wired OK now. I may take a pic of the screw up and the way I have it now on my OneDrive and put a link to them so you can see them if you're interested. I'd appreciate it! I know the fan center has buzzed for years. If I can get a used on in good shape cheap I may pick one up. IDK if I did any damage to that, I don't know if I can really test it until I get the limit switch in. I don't imagine I did it any good. Anyway, I'd LOVE not to hear that buzzing any more......

[@ronaldclark8187]

Mislabeled breaker, fuses by passed,use a meter to confirm no voltage

[@nvisible123]

I definitely don't expect the guy talking when the intro music is playing.

[@wakawaka1976]

My unit has 10 wires to attach... anyone else have the same?

[@AGON17]

How are you going to teach homeowners to change a high voltage component on a 240-volt unit and not recommend a meter. You can never trust a breaker or service disconnect. Someone can get really hurt and cause very expensive damage to their system or home. Unless you've got an electrical background and are mechanically inclined You got to call a professional out.

[@MrUsaer]

This is an old post, but I am wondering if I am being safe enough when working my AC. I always pull the two main fuses from my fuse box that service my entire home, also pull out the disconnect fuses above my outside condenser, AND most importantly flip the on/off switch to OFF that is located just below my elec meter which prevents any electricity whatsoever from entering my home. I also discharge the capacitor. .I do not see any possibility of being lit up from elec. Do you? Just to be safe I guess I should also meter it, but I see no way that elec could possible be present.