Chasing 500 Watts, Big Pelton Turbine

This testing was done to confirm the diameter and thus operating RPM, Volts, and Amps are inline with expectations to move forward with a Turgo Runner of the same size in a stainless housing.
Current bottlenecks:
-Still only a 12V DC system, the Midnite Classic doesn't like to PWM down to 12V from high input voltages.
-Input wires are now a limitation, amps are higher and the extension cord I'm using is only 16 gauge. I'm pusing 7 Amps through it which over the distance probably results in a noticable difference. I have 4 gauge aluminum wire to bury.
-Lots of windage from water in the housing, a Turgo will remedy most of this.
-Jet alignment is still tricky and not as finely adjustable as I would like.
****My Turbine Parts List****
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[@timwegman5776]

Your design is ingenious. Using those quick connections makes it super easy to make changes on the fly, I have never seen such an easy simple set up that works so well. Hats off to you my friends great job!

[@rikwhite6337]

Im my experience of Peltons, the wheel should definitely be vertical, with the housing as large as possible to reduce losses from interaction of the exiting water with the casing. Also, the nozzle shape and alignment is fairly critical. If you want to use the nozzles that you are currently using, i would suggest possibly mounting them side by side on an adjustable bracket, aimed at the bottom of the wheel. That way you can align them so each of the streams hit the centre of each of the pair of the buckets through the main part of the drive stroke. By fine adjusting the alignment of the streams you can tailor your rpm / power. Cool project though :-)

[@peteconwaymusic6500]

The key with those Pelton wheels is having the jet stream lined up perfectly to transfer maximum force/efficiency onto the cups. They are also designed to have the water speed almost match the wheel speed so that all the force of the water is transferred into rotational motion - the water should fall downwards from the wheel. So any kind of housing should be circular but with space around the wheel. Hope that helps. Cool design!

[@philmicuchie7729]

Actually for maximum efficiency the Velocity of the bucket should be half of velocity of jet due to Eulers terminal machinery equation

[@bousce2170]

@@philmicuchie7729 I second this Phil!

[@Enonymouse_]

So approximately toroidal in shape.

[@byugrad1024]

If the velocity of the wheel was the same as the velocity of the stream, then no significant force would be imparted onto the wheel. Something is wrong with your understanding of physics.

[@howardsimpson489]

The water should be left with no energy, ie stationary. It should be free to just drop out of the way. The turbulence in your housing is evidence of huge losses. I used Fisher and Paykel smart drive alternators from NZ. These have a rotor that can be withdrawn from the stator so the load can be controlled for speed matching. They are good for 1000 watts at about 1200 rpm, output at approx 450V three phase. Switchmode power supplies can deliver low voltage for batteries much simpler than MPPT. We lived off grid on three of these for 15 years in NZ. They also work well at low rpm, say 200 charging 24V DC with just a bridge rectifier..

[@Tkm112093evadell]

I love stuff like this. When you turned the water back on for the first time I couldn’t help but notice all of the used water being ejected from the turbine was enveloping the turbine itself. It looks like the size of that box would be a serious loss in efficiency caused by excess water around it. Seems it would be a better idea to make that box as big as possible to allow the water to be ejected far from the turbine to drain down the sides, and not interfere with any moving parts.

[@franssantos9417]

Agree

[@dominicmeier5721]

I think you should make the housing round, and possibly perforated so the water can exit the turbine radially with minimal interaction on the turbine wheel itself.

[@ThriftStoreHacker]

I agree. The corners are causing lots of cavitation.

[@Bahnamoon]

He should 3d print one!

[@KatYouT1811]

2 volute scrolls of 180⁰ length will help. But I'll guess a max gain of 10 to 20W of power.

[@jokergs3]

Yassss definitely an upgrade

[@Kesiif]

Using a hexagon you could eject the water through the corners.

[@ЕвгенийЛетуновский-ч9й]

The box must be round! Water eddies in the corners, counteract rotation!

[@TeknoMastah]

there is no box in round, cause it called "BOX"

[@MsLampalampa]

Wouldn't it work better if that box was round ? I feel like when that water hits the edge of that box it splashes and that would be unnecessary resistence for that wheel. Just a theory

[@rymichael7203]

Loves quick connects on something that rarely needs to be disconnected... smart thinking.

[@ThisRandomUsername]

This probably isn't a problem at ~40A, but it might be worth looking into: I can't remember if you've mentioned in your past videos about the wire guage from the water wheel (I haven't actually watched all of them if I'm honest), but now that you've got less rpms on the same alternator, you're going to be more dependant on the resistivity of the cables themselves (less rpm = less voltage, more current -> more voltage drop). If you're ever going to re-wire the cables in the ground, maybe consider putting in some sense wires to run parallel to your main current carrying wires just to compare the voltage drop across them at the charge controller.

[@smashandburn1]

The ease with which you can remove that thing is amazing!

[@elementfishing]

He sure has it set up for maintenance in mind.

[@alexscarbro796]

Well done! Your perseverance is paying off!

[@N0body247]

Hi joe. I like your setup. in your video summary you touched on the amps being a bottle neck due to 7 amps going thru the wire, 16g can handle roughly 10 amps however distance as you know is the factor you are actually facing.. if distance is an issue your better doing HIGHER volts across the line to keep the amps low and then convert at the box. personally, thats how i would do it. i love the set up you have going.

[@gregwarner3753]

Pelton wheels operate most efficiently when the speed of the spoons is one half the speed of the water jet. This is fairly easy to calculate. This exercise is left for the student.

[@josephpadula2283]

The turbine should be A Kaplan or the simpler Propellor style. Francis third best. But Pelton impulse? That is for very high head !

[@fishhuntadventure]

But you’re still not a physicist

[@josephpadula2283]

No just an engineer at a dam. I am also not a lawyer But I know murder is no legal .

[@gregwarner3753]

Each turbine type has an efficient operating range of pressure and flow. Look at any basic Water Power text book for an explaination.

[@tofo2]

The charger is MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking). It will adjust the voltage for maximum output power, and that will be near a wheel peripheral speed of half the water speed. It may find an optimum a bit off due to cup shape is not at optimum exactly perpendicular and also optimize a bit to increase RPM due to wire losses and if the box distorts water somehow. MPPT regulators solve a lot of problems for homebrew projects. There are even step-up/boost MPPT regulators operating from as low as 5V input. The best is to select the diameter of the pelton wheel to obtain the maximum RPM the alternator is designed for. The power loss in all wires and windings is proportional to I^2 so delivering power at as high voltage as possible is great. Also the water speed can be checked reading the open circuit (no load) voltage of the alternator. Regulator will have to handle that RPM anyway when battery is fully charged if no dump load, water diverter or nozzle valve feedback is used.. It may be the cups are inefficient if wheel is too small and each cup operate over a large angle

[@willlinke2849]

Interesting spoon design. Very clean setup as well. Nice project

[@delf6775]

Why dont you put the 2 batteries you have in series to work @ 24V if you think working at a higher voltage would help. It would halve the current from the charge controller to the batteries too, so less losses in the cables.

[@GonzoDonzo]

Not to mention its half the amp draw when inverting to 110-120vac. Can be expensive to change some of your hardware though

[@PatrickBaptist]

That's awesome. I'm gonna say I wouldn't use those "quick" connects they seem to not be so quick..... But hey if that's what you like then go for it, respect.

[@karelbadjakker1296]

What about a used EV battery? You could probably get power your house with peaks mostly of that battery even if it's only 5kwh

[@oudotcom]

Well done ! Please keep us posted. Many thanks.

[@dieziege6780]

The first few words sounded exactly like Gray Still Play's Intro :D

[@corgraveland4874]

Another very good one Joe, what a progress with really nice output at the end, 0.5 kW. 👍💧

[@JoeMalovich]

I'm not done yet, I should be able to get over 1000W Peak

[@JumpMasterJef]

Started watching your videos 2 years ago with the Micro Hydro Water Wheel, you've come a long way mate. Never wanted a river to run through my garden so much.

[@angryjoshi165]

KaShuto lol.... I'm moving soon because my old house is on its end and guess what's 100 meters away...

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Awesome build. Great design. Great power source. Thank you for sharing.

[@ac4uv]

I enjoyed this video, I wish I had a hydro resource at my home. This said, Is the generator optimized for your torque created at the shaft? Speed of rotation? Yes parasitic drag comments are part of the story but you said this is more of a proof of concept rig. Love those food grade pipe fittings. 12 KWH per day Outstanding !

[@benbrice9343]

Mark my words this guy is going to keep building bigger and bigger intill he surpasses the hoover damn in size and electrical output. He may just keep going after that or he may finally be satisfied. Lol Love the channel and this is the kind of stuff I wish would of been more readily available to me when I was a kid. Im 33 just to give you an idea of where my comment comes from. Thank you for all of your hard work. I have no doubt that you are inspiring an untold number of kids.

[@geicomatt]

As much as I would of love to see you forget to turn the water off. It was a good thing you did lol

[@MasterFeiFongWong]

This may be off topic, but someone might find it interesting. Over unity electric generator. By AMA. Segment 1: 1 motor with bar connected to it standing vertically. Circular disc connected to bar that has magnets embedded in it surrounded in high permeability material to focus magnets outward pushing force in an upwards direction from top of disc. Segment 2: Hollowed out cylindrical Bar of material horizontally positioned. Flat hollowed out ring shaped material with openings around its outer top flat edge. Magnets surrounded in high permeability material embedded in these openings. Magnets positioned in openings around ring are in at least 1 of 2 configurations either all N magnetic field pushing out or N,S,N,S all around it. Just depends on whether your going for Piston structure or spinning structure explained below & whether you want it to be DC or AC current. Place these all along the cylindrical bar connected to it solidly, except at far ends of bar. At both ends of bar place ring of material that can be magnetically repelled in specific locations. (magnetically repelled in specific location is in reference to outside of ring area that faces away from center of bar)(Other side of same ring facing in towards center of bar is capable of being magnetically repelled all around) Ring must be connected solidly to bar. points of repulsion on these rings is off set from each other on each end of bar. 3 Hollow ring structures with small square bars protruding from each. Ring structure has all magnetic repulsion on inside of ring shape & can rap around the main bar so that the bar wont be causing friction on things as it moves back and forth or spins. 1st positioned around far left of bar, 2nd position at center of bar (be sure to leave enough room for magnetic structures to be able to move back and forth without hitting it) & 3rd positioned on far right of bar. Tube structure is constructed in two parts that fit together on top of each other length wise over main structure. Tube structure has 3 square openings for the bars that the Ring structures that are connected around the main bar keeping it from causing friction on structure, to slide into. This tube structure is designed with material that does not block magnetic fields. Perhaps some type of transparent material glass or other. At both ends of the tube structure there is a built in circular groove that will house a round disc. The ceiling/floor/left side/& right side of groove has openings for small magnets to be embedded in it, so that the pushing force from magnets is pushing in towards the edge of disc that goes in this spot. There is also 4 openings located on the top, bottom, left & right positions of the open groove. Small magnets are placed in these spots so when round disc is in position these magnetic fields will hit sideways keeping it from generating friction against structure. Far Ends of bar has Cap structure that screws over tube halves holding them together. Cap structure also has 4 points on inside top, bottom, left & right that have openings. These openings have small embedded magnets in them that exert there pushing force outwards (sideways) so it will keep disc in position, generating no friction against structure. Cap is made of material like tube so it does not block magnetic fields. (Note: These magnets in groove and cap structure are only needed for piston design. If Disc is directly connected to main bar so as it spins the bar spins, magnets are not needed here). The disc has ring around it (ring of material goes around outer edge and folds over front side & backside a small distance) that is repelled by magnetic fields so the 12 small magnets will keep it lined up but it will be able to spin without causing friction on structure. The disc has openings on it's flat side that face inside of tube and magnets surrounded in high permeability material are embedded in this disc. The disc has small bar that is connected to it's center that goes all the way to the other end of bar structure through the center of the hollowed out bar and connects to disc on other end. Disc on other end is set up the same but magnets embedded in it are off set in comparison. As first disc spins the magnetic fields will push against specific spot on disc connected directly to bar, pushing bar in other direction, once bar is fully pushed over, further spinning of disc will then align the other sides magnet to push it back. Tube structure also has half moon shaped protrusion on inside and on both halves so when tube is connected they line up to make a full ring shape on inside of tube, these half moon shaped protrusions have at least 1 small round opening on it's side in middle of curve that faces away from center of bar. The opening has a small magnet embedded in it so magnetic force is repelling out sideways away from center of bar. The protruding ring is positioned to line up slightly further in towards center of bar then the ring of magnetically repelled material connected directly to bar. This way when bar moves right or left it is magnetically stopped after a short distance. Copper coil setup: Copper coils are wound in at least 1 of 2 ways. Either coiled in circles next to each other (Like if you wound coils around a cylindrical bar) or laid out in a row as if wire was on flat table going up then bent to go down & back up until it formed a flat rectangle of wire bending up and down and then the entire structure folded around tube. Copper windings are then lined up perpendicular to magnetic fields on outside of tube. Ends of copper coils are connected into separate construct that will allow electrical current to flow somewhere else. Circular construct is built like a stand that goes around the outside of motor segment. Circular construct has flat ring of high permeability (magnetic field shielding) material that has small openings that will allow magnetic fields through specific locations. Top of circular construct has groove to allow the horizontal bar to balance on. Circular construct can also be placed on other end of bar so it is balanced. The motor segment is positioned so the disc connected to the bar that is connected to the motor is lined up so the disc passes under the horizontal bars disc that is at end of horizontal bar. The high permeability material keeps the magnetic fields in disc from hitting into the disc that spins or pushes the horizontal bar until just the right moment when the impact will cause the disc in horizontal bar to spin which will perpetuate the piston motion in the horizontal bar. More horizontal bars of the same design are built and positioned around the motor segment in a circular horizontal fashion all the way around. The bar connected to the motor can be increased in length to desired height (As much as motor can handle) and more of the exact same setup is repeated higher and higher up, maximizing the over unity potential of the construct to ridiculous proportions. :D Current from the horizontal bars is diverted to power the motor as needed and all other current is diverted to power my game console or the world. :) Interesting variation to this design would be to connect the spinning discs on far ends of horizontal bar to main bar that magnets are connected to so the magnets spin instead of getting pistoned back and forth. So long as moving magnetic fields are perpendicular to copper wires it should work. By AMA

[@mongoose0307]

He went to reconnect the water supply and I yelled “did you turn off the water first?!”

[@manden22]

looks very safe, with the wires and all.

[@kalbogwapo1536]

spencer is smart, very smart.

[@davemact301]

Hello Joe. Cool setup. The round casing is the way to go. Like a donut, the half-toroid is a perfect diffuser for the spent water and the noise! Stainless perf metal will let water pass through and stall that water long enough to use it's film strength to absorb a lot of the sound. Please check for proper clearances at speed!

[@tonychen76]

If input wires are a limitation now, consider stepping up the voltage near the turbine. As far as I can tell your rectifier can handle up to 1600V while the charge controller can handle up to 200V, yet it's getting only 70V input. So your set up should be able to handle double the voltage. My guess is that the turbine is producing 45-ish VAC (3-phase) and if you can step that up to 90V, current should be halved to 3.5A which means less power loss. Now, the transformer itself will induce a loss, so you'll have to make some calculations and figure out if it's worth doing. Moving the rectifier to near the turbine can also help.

[@JoeMalovich]

I want the turbine to be able to free-wheel and not have the open circuit volts fry the charge controller. I already have some free heavy wire to install.

[@ninerout399]

First time seeing this video. This is pretty cool, though intrigued, I'm confused as to where the water is coming from and what you are using the power for.

[@aus71383]

Water comes from a little creek uphill, and is used for good.

[@mathieuriendeau8398]

@@aus71383 pressure is created by gravity?? Sorry for my ignorance...

[@MrAdeptusOne]

@@mathieuriendeau8398 yes.

[@hughbrown1531]

@@mathieuriendeau8398 pressure is a function of height and density of the water. Gravity is basically squeezing the mass of water.

[@Qodesheem]

@@hughbrown1531 Gravity is just a theory. Because of density of the water the pressure is made.

[@redeyedray6376]

wheel is too heavy?

[@Myselfsama]

Whats producing all of that water pressure? Love this idea.

[@ivanadiego6067]

I have a suggestion: The tangential speed (w*r) measured from the axis to the middle of one of the spoons should be between 0.46 to 0,48 of the speed of the water jet for maximum efficiency. Also using only one nozzle instead of two should make a small turbine more efficient.

[@stewartpalmer2456]

I would add some floats to controlled shut-off valves in your barrel to control the large and small jet feeds at your turbine end. A way to automate the flow control for the supply. Kind of like the floats used in toilets. ;)

[@wpegley]

Your turbine is now my ringtone

[@JoeMalovich]

Nice

[@mike_jay]

That stream must be 100m above this setup to get that kinda pressure

[@donavan1010]

Sorry if im late to the party on this video but I had a couple thought that might prove helpful. Unless its just the nozzle adjustment or there is something I don't understand by this type of wheel (which I think I understand pretty well) I think your box needs to be bigger. You are getting too much turbulence in the waste water. You can see it as the water is splashing back in the opposite direction of the spray coming from the nozzle. It shows up more clearly if you slow down the playback to 1/4 speed. It is especially prevalent in the corners opposite the nozzles but it is happening all over the box. You want it to be able to freely throw the waste water once the push has stopped on each spoon. Ideally you don't want any of the waste water hitting the the front side of any of the spoons. This will cause drag and will slow down the rotation thus decreasing the power. I would increase the box size at least 2 inches in all directions ( perhaps not from the top to the wheel depending on how much it throws vertically). This should cut down on the cavitation action quite a bit as the water will not be bouncing back on itself as much. OR better yet make it round. You will keep more of the circular momentum the waste water has and that should help to drive the wheel with less loss. If I'm not mistaken the original patent for this type of wheel used a circular housings but mounted vertically. I think your horizontal rotation is a better option at it should cut down on baring wear and distribute the force more evenly on the wheel. The only other thing I would think about changing is if you are working with someone to design you spoons/wheels have them put a slight angle to them so that as the water is falling due to gravity the force gets applied. I know it will be minuscule with the distance and the pressure you probably only need a degree or two but if your trying to perfect it and have control over such things it might be worth a look.

[@G-ra-ha-m]

0:09 An interesting way of packing, rest the metal wheel on the delicate plastic blades and then pack in foam on top!! 14:06 get rid of the chamber as it's a water brake and build a jig so you can tune the angle of the jets while running.

[@anarchocommunist3888]

i thought so too lol

[@j.crandom2077]

im new to the channel how you get the water pressure so high !!??

[@DjSharperimage]

Pretty awesome build. If I ever buy some land, I will probably build something like this.

[@joycethomas8868]

Nice work and video. The velocity of water exiting nozzles remain the same. Using a larger diameter wheel should turn slower based on same water jet velocity. Very nice setup.

[@fmaclen]

I really have no idea what I'm talking about but it looks like there is a lot of water turbulence inside the box, wouldn't it be a bit more efficient if the inside of the turbine box had rounded corners or was a straight up circular shape?

[@DanielCallejasSevilla]

Water reaching the sides of the box has already produced work by hitting the turbine first, so aside from splash from wall to wheel, the shape of the box should not be a big issue.

[@wilppuse]

@@DanielCallejasSevilla What if, the box was the same shape as the stellarator coils... Id like to test that but alas, no stream on my backyard

[@keithlester9152]

I saw the same thing. I know in a racing motor they make the oil pan to keep splash off the crank. I think the same principal should apply here.

[@UCCLdIk6R5ECGtaGm7oqO-TQ]

Likely, but probably not so easy to prototype in comparison to a simple box.

[@barryfirth1187]

He could 3D print one after the bugs are worked out...he has a printer. Just has to consider the shape to deflect the water properly and if the plastic will handle the stress. 🤔 Bigger, round with baffles.

[@DavidmByrd]

Round wheel inside a round barrel vs. round wheel in square box. My thought is outside housing effects speed and efficiency. just a thought.

[@jrchicago9216]

⚠️ 100 extra watts is small given the size more than doubled. The problem is the size of the water stream is not massive enough. I.E. Gallons per minute. You should be able to get 3x more wattage with the proper flow.

[@agentstaple1]

You should try make a bigger and rounder container. I'm pretty sure all the water bouncing of those angles and getting thrown back into your wheel will be creating some serious drag, should notice an improvement if you manage to get the water away from it once the force has been used. Edit: That's not meant as a criticism btw, just a helpful thought. Guys like you are an inspiration :)

[@daz12345daz]

Andy Dwyer has really come on since his shoe shine days.

[@EasyPower]

Very nice setup, well put together. The charger rating is rated in Amps, if your charger is 40 Amps per example it will be 40 Amps at 12 VDC (right about 480-500Watts output) or 40 Amps at 24 VDC etc etc (chargers can be 12/24 or 24/48) which is then twice the amount of power, this will only be a problem to you if you were curtailing production due to reaching already the Max charger Current (as for the 48 to 24 VDC question), if your current is already close to the current limit of the charger yes that is a limiting factor definitely. If you can measure flow velocity in your pipe and manifold pressure you can for sure estimate maximum Hydraulic power before the turbine, and see what is the efficiency you are getting at the moment, for that you need a large flange mechanical flow meter to avoid much flow restriction to the turbine. That can guide you into next steps to achieve your desired power production. if the efficiency is high then you are looking at high losses or water flow from your reservoir, it is is low you may benefit from an additional injector(s) and look if you may have too many buckets (too small as well) on your wheel which can be the culprit of all the splashing inside the box.

[@cautiousoptimist]

Looks likes it's fighting turbulence from being in a square housing...

[@DeliciousDeBlair]

That might be true, the best way to remedy that would be to have a shaped shroud that 'excavates' the off-spray ensuring that it does not splash back against the wheel. Then one would know. I think that one could maybe put a pair of stationary rings of blades [something generally/vaguely like this, only with collector rings to ensure that said splash has no way to fall back and land back onto the spinning peltier impeller system, and you would do best with one for the top if you can only get one direction, but if both directions could be had, put one above and below... www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-32112K-Electric-Replacement/dp/B003EOCG88 also it is possible to make something like this from heating, bending and gluing PVC pipe really cheaply, if you have the time and energy to invest in it ] to ensure the water is indeed directed away from the middle on a continuous and consistent basis.

[@turmfalcke]

at Hobbyking you can get a connector that is designed for BLDC motors its called MT60

[@maxheadrom3088]

In Hydroelectric Powerplants, cavitation digs holes in the spoons.

[@johnsomerset1510]

The turbines spin so fast it looks like they don't have any real load on them, indicating the alternator is much too small, or is doing nothing in the way of producing power! The pelton wheels I've seen do a few hundred RPM, not thousands. Very interesting Video none the less.

[@JoeMalovich]

Most turbines you see don't have 280 feet of water pressure behind them, hence the speed. And yest the alternator is powerful enough to brake the flow down to only a few hundred rpm.

[@OliverMotorized]

Very cool system! I'm sure if I scour your channel more I could find the answer but... do you have a comparison in output of using two jets instead of one hitting the pelton? For some reason my brain can't manage to see why two would be better than one if it's from the same source and traveling at the same velocity. But on the other hand there is more water hitting it it right? Or is it just dividing the amount that would be coming out of one in half? Either way super cool setup my friend.

[@JoeMalovich]

Two jets double the water which is double the power at the same pressure. it's not actually the same pressure but it's close enough. I lose some to friction, and I have a finite amount of water, it's really only capable of a limited amount of power.

[@David-mo2wu]

@@JoeMalovich why not 4 then

[@comedousedinmud44]

Really interesting video, thank you! Recently found out an ancestor of mine invented these!

[@deathcake9000]

What is the RPM of the new wheel?

[@pooorman-diy1104]

500 watts is not big ..

[@pjplumber2146]

Just wondering if you played with the angle of spray. The only vague experience I have is a paint roller pushed with a garden hose. But lol. When I do this. The paint roller seems to spin faster when I change the angle from a solid direct hit to a glancing blow. Just a thought from getting lost in the spin. Total shot in dark. You may have mentioned it already. I didn’t remember seeing the angles change in first video. But dude this is awesome. Mad respect.

[@moo76man]

50w improvement... that is more than 10%! Wow it looks like you have too many cups. Water seems not to flow out too well causing resistance to the wheel.

[@SVWildHare]

Without reading through all of the comments and I know this is an older video but I would say a round housing for the turbine would make it more efficient than the square one you’re currently using. Cheers.

[@simontraisnel8061]

Good job bro

[@Digital-Dan]

Still looks as if there may be undesirable effects from the water that bounces around after it contacts the spoons and before it exits the scene. Keith said it better, earlier. Great fun, though. People should not live where water freezes.

[@JoeMalovich]

Yes there likely is. A Turgo handles water better, that's why I'm going with a Turgo in the next version.

[@ghostachful]

You should put some sound insulation material on inside walls and lid around the wheel. Noise level is increased multiple times by reflections inside the box. Lots of cheap options out there, heck you can put old blankets or towels and still make a difference, but open cell materials for acoustic treatment would work best.

[@randomstranger9674]

That T splitter looks as if it would cause a lot of turbulence and pressure loss for the water coming out of the bottom outlet.

[@jackjack4504]

Hey, where doit you get the pressure of water from?

[@davecolwell725]

jack jack I would also like to know is that just the home water system? If I think of it it’s not a silly idea to make something like this in line for water although i would imagine that would rob the water pressure.

[@jackjack4504]

I'm not sure of this... IT will probably rob too much pressure and make wait too much, and you will get 500 Watts every year... Or month if you like stay in the shower. Maybe for a swimming pool and not the one you have on a garden... He must have a river near his turbine

[@cymaho]

Hi, thanks you for show us your work, can you update the links to see the products you used,... and can you put in the list the water staff ! Hug !

[@DeliciousDeBlair]

Definitely need batteries matched to the system's safe operating parameters.

[@oldNavyJZ]

would nylon nuts work and reduce weight of the impeller?

[@davidlong2691]

Sanitary fittings are the best aren't they? Gotta love it.

[@h.l.69]

2:20 damn that is sexy. Must build, must get going. Heck I wish there was some nice stream next to me. Also, I like coming up with bunch of ideas yet I seldom see any real effort on actually getting them done. I guess it’s just a lot more easier to dream than do.

[@bushmaster777]

Theoretically there should be no change in power with change in diameter of the runner. As long as the blades have a tangential velocity close to half that of the water jets.

[@TO-ll4js]

How much is the inlet pressure of the water before it impinges on the blades?

[@noobulon4334]

You should put some ferrules on your wires there, its less important because the wago connectors apply spring tension to the conductors but it does keep the strands from getting messy

[@МагаТаксебе]

Скажите пожалуйста, где можно заказать такое колесо турбины ?

[@bene5431]

2:33 ELECTROBOOM Material

[@Ohmloud]

Hahah

[@dantenegrin8062]

Would you say that the turbulent water present along the case is potentially disrupting the efficiency ?

[@brylle7564]

I'm a fan of your work and I love to know where you've got those quick release connectors. nice work sir keep it up😊

[@charging_station2]

6 more and you'll produce the same power as my 8 panels

[@peppi0304]

I think your videos are great and you aswell. We have a small creek close to our house which isn't that much of a height difference but takes a decent amount of water and I would love to make some energy out of it for our house. I calculated about 4kW of energy in that river so even if i could get 25% efficiency that would already mean a lot. That's why I'm very interested in your work :)

[@LandtoHouse]

Very cool! 500w seems like a great power to work with.

[@JoeMalovich]

Only a few weeks a year can I run it like this I think.

[@LandtoHouse]

@@JoeMalovich none the less that's really fun.

[@Gunzee]

You think removing every other spoon might help speed it up? It'll defo reduce the energy needed for inertia & maybe increase the waters 'pushing' power as the spoons are really close together.

[@KogothLetsPlays]

The outer square body creates a turbulence that interferes with rotation, making a cylindrical body and a reverse funnel-shaped drain. Sorry for the bad translation. )

[@sycholicthebigdukesix3441]

put a Y in the tube for your split that T is effecting the flow rate just from turbulence... the T'd line will get staved yeah you might got pressure but water will want to continue the direction its moving just like anything else..

[@donaldsteele6276]

Very cool man im going to build one someday

[@stevelamperta865]

You need to build some deflectors to stop the water from bouncing off the sides of the box and back onto your paddle wheel ! its slowing it down.

[@TheAnical]

If you are still running this box, maybe put some smooth corners to redirect water flow.

[@SauravKumar-xo4rx]

If the turbine case is kept circular in place of square then I think efficiency will increase. Need your views.

[@turbo3089]

I'm trying to build a similar set up. But out of curiosity what type of jets are those is it like a normal thing you can buy at Walmart like for pressure washers...

[@donacianoc.sandoval2587]

what are those hose clamps called? the ones that look like miniature vitaulic clamps.

[@mrburne3043]

Those are CLAMP DIN 32676 fittings

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

My guess would be need more flow to make more watts? No? Maybe a different jet nozzle. Of course I'm just jumping in here and don't know anything about your system . pretty cool though!

[@JboEnterprise]

It might be worth putting something like a stage pin connector for your power disconnect, fewer exposed wires and even quicker disconnect

[@paulwilliams1592]

it will run slower at the alternator, because wheel is bigger. you need to take advantage of the greater torque, so increase the size of the alternator

[@gkid50-gamingtechreviews55]

so one thing i noticed just from view is the water thats being splashed back onto the spoons and stuff is slowing the whole thing down just a little bit but i figured id let you know

[@youknowvin]

Why was the black bypass hose put to use? Seems the two hoses already there could have just been put down in the center hole. Also those stainless steel connectors and clamps looks like high dollar lab grade parts. Aren't they expensive. Looks like a lot of water sloshing around in the new box that would interfere with the turbine.

[@krameris1000]

Perfect 👍

[@potterteksmith7548]

Pelton (impulse turbine) wheels are suited to high head like about 1000' and higher to get max efficiency Francis (reaction turbine) are suited to lower heads The most complicated are Kaplan turbines for the lowest heads - basically a very large variable pitch propeller to broaden the maximum efficiency range This setup doesn't appear to have much of a head (going on the plastic hoses etc) ?

[@pulesjet]

Damn nice set up Sir.

[@qaisarali7299]

I like it it's a fantastic work of piece for free electric energy, i need some detail of generator that you use i mean model # ?

[@paulkawsek8617]

how much cost to setup? how much electricity generated in kWh/month? How much water flow do you need to make it work optimally?

[@brianbrewster6532]

I'm sorry - what was your input water source? That's part of the fun here, to have an endless supply of "free" energy is it not? Other than that - I'm very impressed here. Everyone else cries SOLAR SOLAR SOLAR and you went a different direction. Bravo.

[@davidelliott5843]

Why don’t you have a snail shell shape casing or even a circular casing?