Chasing Deathwobble - Part 1: Disassembly to re-fix a cracked axle

This video is the introduction of a new toy I picked up and having to do some re-repair work on top of what the previous owner tried to do. Also trying to replace some broken parts to remedy the death wobble
Stuff from this video:
Sanding tool: amzn.to/3AdX3C1
Sanding tool belts: amzn.to/3nzEvIM
More sanding belts: amzn.to/3AeHB8F
Bandsaw: amzn.to/3tWQUYq
Even more belts: amzn.to/3zgjaGx
5/8" heim joints: amzn.to/3AgUCOO
Clevis: www.speedwaymo...
Radius arms: www.speedwaymo...

[@gostallion]

Hi Tim this is Dennis, yes that is a Total Performance kit just like my Bucket-T is. The death wobble is what we all are afraid of as at highway speeds it will crash you into the ditch. Mostly it comes on at a higher speed so it can start on the highway, your wobble is so bad it is doing it from a slow speed....count your blessings there. Total Performance was a company out of Connecticut making kits until they sold out to Speedway Motors. The tell-tale indicator is the tie-rod out front and the design of the radius rods and pick-up brackets. By the looks of that axle after you split it I would strongly recommend getting a new axle. You don't know how far that the corrosion has wicked up the axle on both sides and you will be welding onto rust since you cannot cut it back and shorten the axle. I trust you took exact measurements of the radius rod lengths from bolt hole center to bolt hole center and tie-rod length, etc. The shackle bolts you referred to as being backwards and rubbing the axle should have a slot inside and a grease zerk in one end, unless there are neoprene bushings. I also see you still have the friction shocks (as i do until I find the right bracket), they are junk (and can contribute to the wobble) so put that on your list to change in the near future. Also a strong suggestion would be to take out the steering sector and check it for broken teeth and repack it if it is still good. Mostly Vega and Corvair sectors were used and that wobble could break off teeth. Yes the Ackerman angle is critical along with toe in and plan to take it to an alignment shop when your done. Our cars are similar in many ways, I also have a tunnel ram with dual quads and a scoop and a special license plate. You can see and hear mine here >> kzbin.info/www/bejne/iX3OZ3mZnLxnZ8k&ab_channel=gostallion

[@chrisscheidel3250]

Dennis, the assembly doesn't look like mine but I could be wrong. Total didn't drill their friction shocks, and the perches on the axle are larger than mine. Anyway, I agree with you that the axle should be replaced and not repaired. The caster and camber are already pre-set and any minor alteration at all will throw the entire balance of the assembly off.

[@gostallion]

@@chrisscheidel3250 seems his front axle components are a alot like mine but he has more chrome parts (I'm jealous). I can't put up a picture here or I would show you mine looks like his. Not sure what you mean by the friction shocks being drilled, please explain. I have one bolt in the center into the frame rail to keep tightening the sandpaper-like discs. As I am writing this part 2 and part 3 are out so we get to see how it was fixed. I think he did a great job at fixing it, the inside shaft, as a plug, was very thick and will surely hold up. I now think it will hold up fine but there is that weld in the center that looks bad visually. If it was mine I would cover it with a chrome license plate clamp (Speedway part # 92539901) since here we have to run a front plate. Made me go out and measure my camber and I'm good.

[@TimMassengale2]

Good to see you back on KZbin! I have definitely missed your content. I dig cool cars and hot chips so keep em coming!

[@Rebar77_real]

Cool project over the old Packard(or w/e). When you re-sleeve it try to put some holes underneath where you won't see for some plug welds(only drill the outer tube type thing). Where the inside tube isn't welded is just flexing around, hence the break. Hope you can keep it clean looking, need a fast stick for that one. Good to see you making a vid again.

[@Mercmad]

The biggest issue was probably the material used for the axle. I have always used hollow bar,even in Mild steel it's stronger than the pipe used there. With Hair pins as opposed to 4 link suspension the axle is forced to twist on road bumps,increasing the chances of fracture. Thats also why the Heim Joints were bent. And wow,the Akerman is actually reversed /pointing outwards because the spindles are on the wrong sides,which I guessed you have figured out already.

[@robj1234]

The reason your axle and hair pin locating arms are breaking is when the car leanes the arms need to rotate on the axle but because the axle is rigid it places stress on all the parts hence the breakage. Those type of arms will work with a forged I beam axle as it will flex over its length, a tube axle can not flex. Ensure you get a good forged axle there are some cast ones out there that will break. Four bars should be used with a tube axle. The wobble is caused by the wrongly adjusted castor on the front axle. Castor is the back ward lean of the king pin. A good wheel alignment shop should be able to reset all the alignment . Good luck with your build.

[@billphilip3804]

Hair pin radius rods want to twist the axle trough movement compared to a 4 link setup. I wouldn’t reuse this axle. If you do decide to use the axle the sleeve it should be at least .120 Dom or CM. and at least 6” long and rosette welded on the back and bottom with a good bevel on both sides and with enough of a gap for a root weld including the sleeve, do not use SS filler wire it will crack. You will need to make more than one pass.Take your time to clock the king pins don’t rely on the bat wings. Make sure the king pins have Allen set screws in the king pin bosses ( 2 per side ) to hold them stable.

[@Asil-xyz]

Love your vids! Keep it up!

[@TimNummy]

Thank you!

[@gvet47]

I wonder if the kingpins were set in a fixture when the axle was welded back together. For sure set them in a fixture so the axle is not in a twist. If this took a hit in the front are the rims even true anymore?

[@chrisscheidel3250]

Just finding this video on the damaged axle and "Death Wobble" repair. Nothing to me indicates that this was a Total Performance assembly. The frame would have been stamped about where the steering box is located with a TP identification number. Total didn't mount their steering boxes on top, nor their motor mounts as shown. Steering arm is also different. Several other discrepancies shown. The hymn joints are certainly not right, and might indicate that the car had been possibly in an accident, or at least some type of severe pressure to bend as they are which might be why the axle initially broke. The spring is different, and so on. While I haven't yet seen part 2, I will watch next. To me your axle is toast and should be replaced. FYI, I have been driving a Total T for 38 years with over 100K miles on it and normally can drive at 65 and take my hands off the wheel and the car still tracks just fine. Now, I just had a new set of tires mounted for the front (also wires) and now have the death wobble starting at 45-50 mph. All indications to me is that the tires were not properly balanced when mounted. I have to take them off and have them re-balanced. If I remember, I will let you know how I make out after balancing, but it's time for me to put the car away for the season so it might not get done until next season. Good luck with your repairs.

[@nigelhouenstein337]

Hi looking good. I would like to know what size are the tires on time front wheels. Thank. Nigel

[@dougcormack8240]

A lot of times when the front end does this if everything else is in good shape ,make sure it has a lot of pos.caster,I am saying this because it shows up at the faster speeds,hope this helps.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

I'm having a hard time figuring out whats going on with that axle too... That outer layer is so oxidized an POROUS it looks more like moldy foam than steel and judging from the tiny amount of bright metal showing where the saw actually cut I'd say it was about as structural as moldy foam too! I'm guessing what looks like the 3rd (outer) layer is all weld in a V notch where he beveled the ends as a weld prep. Be sure to bevel it back far enough to get rid of all that shit! I'd go back with at least a 1/4" thick sleeve if not more. If it were me I'd do a solid sleeve, bevel the tube back and plug weld it. I was thinking a beefy billet front licence plate mount to cover it up. I think those spacers for the spindles and arms are correct but don't think those added washers are, could machine some up if you stick with that setup, but a full size caliper would be nice... Cool Hot Rod! ATB.

[@836dmar]

Maybe so with that porosity be he certainly didn’t get penetration. Likely didn’t clean the copper or rust well either. Sleeve was far smaller in wall section than original and pretty short looking but is all that’s holding it now. He ground off 75% of his weld which I’m sure was not pretty. If it had any strength(unlikely) at all it was now ground away. Just really hack work with the typically confident explanations like, “It was something solid” as if to say, “I got her good and this thing ain’t movin!’” I’d say it was a bad farmer repair but that would be an insult to farmers. Agree a tube axle with pins torques too much. Likely needs 4 link. None of this is my style though so...

[@blownt]

Spend the bucks and get a new axle. You gonna trust your life to a spliced welded axle? I sure wouldn't. But if you do make sure you bevel each end and space for full penetration weld. Root pass and then several other passes. Spent many years in refinery and piping construction.

[@daledavies2334]

Does not help that the Ackerman is wrong. A string from the tierod ball joint passing over the center of the kingin should go straight to the center of the rear axle. Not the center of the differential gearcase housing. Those steering arms appear to be for a rear steer application.

[@tomcummings655]

At least with those front wheels he should be able to bend the steering arms OUT far enough to get the ackerman close

[@daledavies2334]

@@tomcummings655Possibly. But that requires heating the steering arms to get them to bend. That will require the tierod hole to move outward on each side about 2" to 3". Then a new tierod needs to be fabricated. The proper front steer arms are available, and would be a better choice as the arms should be reheat treated after bending. The proper steering arms will look better as well. A friend built a T with that suicide front end, and was going to just turn rear steer arms around to use in front steer. I explained the issues and he got the front steer steering arms. The Ackerman being screwed up does not generally contribute to "the death wobble". Caster and worn joints contribute. I drove a Ford F350 work truck for a while. Another guy had driven it previously. Coming home there was a like frost heave across the highway at about 20° angle, summer and winter. That would excite the death wobble. I had it in numerous times, to two Ford dealerships. The steering stabilizer shock was teplaced almost every time. They replaced a wheel they said was bent, and another time they replaced the steering box and pitman arm. They were milking the fleet card. Of course I did not tell them I have two mechanics tickets, plus instrumentation. Eventually the tires were worn out so I had them replaced. Holy crap, no more death wobble. F450's from some years are notorious for the death wobble. Caster is part of the cause, but live axle front ends are prone to it.

[@bryanglover3217]

Your king pins are not clocked the same when they welded it back to get her .leen the king pins back 4 deg back with a 1/4 " toe in .pull a tape make sure both sides of car are exactly the same length .your shackles are above the leef spring on both sides. One of yours were flipped wrong that will forse the axel side to side also flip the the rod mounts over put it behind the front axel like it was supposed to be installed the right way

[@cirezane]

I have been around these things all my life with countless others & have never heard it called a “bucket T”, T-bucket man, it’s T bucket

[@mrblanche]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYazga1nncpmqbM

[@cirezane]

@@mrblanche ya no, it’s a T-bucket

[@mrblanche]

@@cirezane But now you can't say you've never heard the term bucket T, can you?

[@cirezane]

@@mrblanche well you certainly got me there...

[@awldune]

California?! For some reason I thought you were Canadian.

[@fredkaminski3668]

Yeah, I have a suggestion! Get rid of that fricken axle! Welding it together is unsafe! Come on!

[@Sherwin657]

wee wa wee wa

[@timr86868]

California eh??

[@ronhodgkinson7683]

Buy new

[@mperry9025]

Do yourself a favor buy a new axle