Cheap Car Heater Fix at Home

[@catgray1]

You are THE MAN!! Haven't had heat in our Ford F150 in like 10 years. Your video popped up in my KZbin feed. My husband watched it, did what you said and it worked beautifully!! I have heat in my truck again! Can't thank you enough fir this video! Was easy, and only cost us about $65 for hose, coolant, cleaner and a radiator flush kit! Couldn't be happier! ❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@catgray1]

The heat hasn't worked in my 2005 Ford F150 pickup in years. Haven't wanted to spend the money to have the hearer core replaced. Going to show thus video to my husband so we can try this! I'm sick of not having a defroster, nor heat, in the colder months. Thanks for this super easy solution!

[@tomstapp2344]

Great idea! My brother and I just did this and it worked perfectly. Can't believe how much gunk came out. Glad I didn't pay my mechanic $1,200 to replace it. Thanks for being so informative and I appreciate how you explained everything.

[@michaeldunn6760]

I've been a Automotive Mechanic for over 20yrs (M242675)- and I think your videos are awesome.

[@briansmobile1]

Thanks Michael!

[@MarzNet256]

Great how to. I know some people use a garden hose or compressed air but the high pressure can rupture the heater core. Using gravity-like you did-is much safer.

[@bdrichardson403]

Use garden hose only.

[@hcote4457]

Thank you for the video! I was having heating issues in my Nitro. I followed your instructions and wow! Went from 60 to 140 degrees… nice and toasty now! Thanks.

[@BlueRibbonSongs]

Worked like a charm. Love that I finally have heat after over two years

[@codeyhanna767]

Seen a couple videos on how to do this. This is the best way and most simple way. No making anything or some confusing method. Thanks for sharing

[@martinradtke5181]

Interesting way of cleaning out the heater core. Thanks for the novel approach that directly cleans the heater core. Myself I would take the drain hose and hold it up. Then mix the cleaner and hot water and let the chemicals sit in the heater core for maybe 10 minutes. Then drain the heater core. Then drain & repeat as needed. Thanks for the new trick!

[@dustinharnden6373]

Watched your vid when my heater crapped out. Flushed my core. Works great now. Thanks man!!

[@mannm950]

Hey today's date 1/14/19. I just tried what this guy said do, it truly works. Last week my radiator started shooting out antifreeze and my cousin told me to try stop leak, worst mistake. I replaced the radiator, but the heat wouldn't come on. That stop leak mess clogged up my heater coil. So that's why I tried this, and now my heat is feeling really good. Thank you so much for this video. This will save u time and money, just do it urself

[@guysmith8095]

why BACK flush

[@ronmassaro9527]

Great video - followed every step and it worked. My 2003 Chevy Tahoe is blowing hot again! My only problem was both hoses felt equally hot, so I couldn't tell outlet vs inlet. I checked a few other videos and found one that said that the outlet is normally higher to allow for hot air to rise out of the system; that worked for me. Anyway, loved watching your video; great no nonsense style. You are the King!

[@donaldcarter3393]

I love it because you didn't have tear dash. And no need of removing a lot of bolts etc. I also love the idea of flushing rather than buying and tearing down as I've previously stated up top. Thanks Brian

[@garyolson3315]

Very informative video. Having had 4 sons and rebuilding many motor vehicles, I can't stress enough, don't use stop leak. It is a band aid that will eventually turn into major problems in the future. I am currently having issues with no heat the on the drivers side of an '06 Land Rover LR3. Wish me luck........ ;-) Thanks for the video!

[@ipwee]

My heater works fine, But I still watched and loved the video. Thank you.

[@geekhillbilly2636]

You can reverse the coolant flow thru the heater core to quickly get heat. Use the engine to clear the blockage. I use a remote Oil filter Relocation kit as a coolant filter on the inlet side, going thru the filter then to the heater core. It catches the gunk that stops up the core and clears it from your coolant. You might have to change filters often at first for a real dirty system, but it pays for itself very quickly. I use this on my 1999 Ford Ranger with 213000 miles (2.5. L4 Engine). BTW I live in Southeastern Kentucky

[@JuanPerez-ul8mu]

👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@emanuelmyers3935]

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂❤😂😂😂 6:14 sent a😊😊😊😊 was ÇCAÀÀCAXAA😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[@walterl5217]

❤NBC 2😊

[@DustyBaker-z8s]

Genius

[@Richard-m6k]

Cool.😂🔥 Baby

[@chuckychuck]

You're a excellent teacher, follow your direction from this video lord and behold when i pull off my heater hose there was no fluid in it, nothing were flowing through it, heater core wasn't the issue there was a block in one of those line, I back flush both hoses and blew through the heater core lord and behold heat was coming through the vents this car never idle at 145 degree 120 was it ide temp now she's heating up like a boss my thermostat opens up at 197 for ford taurus antifreeze was green as it can be when I drain it

[@MrDmmeeks]

Have done this more than once. Always used clr and let it set overnight in a warm garage. Flush like made with water in both directions. Saved a lot of headaches.

[@miami1393]

We were having a hard time w/ a 2003 Acura TL, did full coolant flush and flushed the heater core as well, coolant would come out nice and clean and clear, but the car would continue to overheat whenever we turned on the heater in the cabin, and of course, the heat was never hot enough, it would hover around 95° at the hottest. We thought we still had air bubbles so we kept bleeding it and bleeding and still nothing would cure the problem. Flushed the heater core again and the water would come out clear. Finally, I bought a 'typhoon' air gun for my compressor. I again did a flush of the heater core, but this time I poured about 8oz of distilled water at a time, after pouring the water in, I'd take the typhoon air gun and press it against the return hose (I attached clear vinyl hoses to the existing heater core hoses), squeezed the trigger on the typhoon gun and it rushed a violent amount of air into the core, at the other end a lot of that copper sand and crud came out with the water. I did this 'till I got almost no sand/crud come out the other end (about 10 gallons worth, no kidding). This finally solved the engine overheating and lack of heat out of the vents. Note, make sure you secure the out-hose down at the basin and cover the basin with a towel or something or it will thrash around like a chicken w/o a head spilling water all over. Hope this helps.

[@jimmybrown1303]

Just did this to my 2002 f150 and I have HEAT!!! THANKS!

[@ravipateluk]

Nice video...i would use electric kettle to heat & pour, i find it safer

[@Ken-harris]

Thanks for the great idea I was over thinking it

[@hungrynapps]

this is d best explanation i got on KZbin so far. .lol. i think my radiator cover wasnt tight enough n i was losing water . got a new cap. need to top up my coolant . n try to flush my clog

[@Nuke21]

I'm glad you mentioned to not use stop leak. People don't realize those cheap "fixes" either don't do anything, or they cause more damage than before. I have a million idiots bring their car to our shop and wonder why their injectors are bad because they ran injector cleaner in their gas tank. They don't realize it doesn't work. It is common sense that if it is safe for your plastic gas tank, it isn't going to eat carbon. Anyways, on-topic, as a last resort for a customer that flushing didn't work because it was so blocked, knowing I was going to have to replace it anyways, I put a low pressure heated pressure-washer to one end and that was enough to break the blockage without rupturing the heatercore. Just a thought as a last resort especially if it doesn't work or breaks the heatercore, you had to go in and do it anyways.

[@All2Skitzd]

There are service manuals and TSB that beg to differ, On some Cadillacs and other aluminum blocks it says to ACDelco cooling system tablets (which are Bars stop leak tablets according to MSDS) and on the trucks that had issues with the fuel sending unit they say to use ACDelco complete fuel system cleaner (Chevron according to MSDS) and ACDelco injector cleaner (also Chevron) on injectors and ACDelco fogger (forgot what brand it really is) on the carbon buildup Using a pressure washer with either a soap tip or no tip at all on the gun works about the same as a pulsating cooling system cleaner (and surprisingly enough cost about the same)

[@boondock6055]

Nuke injector cleaner might not be so bad depending on what it is still will do little to none but all that other mechanic in a bottle shit is garbage

[@abc876]

Nuke what about lucas fuel treatment?

[@boondock6055]

No the only thing I've used to clean injectors is seafoam and never had a problem,but if they aren't spraying right it's best just to change it out

[@mattrondeau7466]

So muriatic acid that is packaged in plastic bottles won't eat carbon? Or concrete? Or flesh? Common sense, you say?

[@Eurospec73]

Hey Brian I'm brand new to your channel, thanks for posting this video, it really gives me a better understanding of how to flush out my heater core instead of replacing it.

[@amejia3305uuujjeggtt]

Just found your channel and I gotta say I love it man. I hope this helps me. I’ve got no heater or defroster and idk what my problem is.

[@JayPoster490]

Thank you so much for this video. I do not have a hose outlet at my home and I never thought of the zip tie trick. You the man!

[@briansmobile1]

You are so welcome!

[@markieb98]

When you reversed the hoses to the heater core at the end to continue the back flush process as you drive, aren't you sending any knocked loose particles into other parts of your closed system?

[@adiadrian1758]

Same question here !!??

[@joblowu]

i only have heat when im driving and it blow cold air when i do my stop. do you know what could cause the problem? awesome video btw

[@sneekysmurf4754]

joblowu possibly a water pump I’m not 💯% but I would target that area first just to cross it off my ( that’s not it ) List. Keep ur head up there’s help out here bud

[@markthomas625]

Very good explanatory/instructional video on heater core problems in vehicles.

[@Russi4N]

Good video, thanks for the info. Although would be nice to see a before and after temperature reading from the vents.

[@mikeoxlong1167]

You just became my new go to KZbin vehicle repair guy! 1st time watching, and u are really articulate, and love how u aren't affected by someone's brittle feelings, lol! That's awesome, thanks for the info!

[@colinandrews2380]

Been following your channel for quite some time. Have recently become a first year Automotive Tech Apprentice and the knowledge I've gained from your videos have given me a boost going into the trade. Big fan, will be sending you a plate soon. Another thing I've found involving that stop leak stuff is sometimes it clogs up the thermostat and holds it open which causes lower than normal temp through the vents as well. Cheers Brian! Love the vids! Huge fan!

[@briansmobile1]

Great point- and great to hear that you're doing well- thanks!

[@pi1797]

Nice video. I have a 01 S-10. That crazy truck since we bought it had 50k miles on it. Now at 115k. I have had to replace the water pump and radiator twice. All because of that Dexcool. I used Blue Devil radiator flush then replaced the coolant with universal coolant. OMG that little truck will roast you now. After the flush it did go through another water pump. But no more radiator replacements

[@KennethWatson-g4h]

There is a screw that holds the windshield wiper cowel right above the passenger side that has a small o ring. The o ring might be deteriorated, or the screw is missing or loose. Had the same problem on my 97 Suburban. Drove me crazy for a couple weeks fixed the problem, no more leak. Good luck.

[@nmattcar]

"stop leak or some other type of garbage" perfect word choice.stop leak is the Devils egg

[@briansmobile1]

I've seen plastic components from water pump impellers, coolant flanges, flush kit T's, etc plug everything up when they get old and disintegrate.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

I have recently herd the same thing. Replace your girls Radiator or she will replace you wink 😉

[@sand0077]

Great info and easy to follow. Will try this on my wife's 91 Mitsubishi Eclipse and see what happens. 👍

[@leebarnes655]

Bar's leak name used to mean something. It wasn't the copper or aluminum powdered gimmick deal, but Bar's had so much competition from alumaseal they went ahead and made their own and now you can buy it with Bar's name right on it too. In the meantime the original formula for Bar's leak went away, it was actually molasses and plant parts such as ground pepper. This molasses formula type does not plug anything but where it leaks. Until you know what you are doing be sure to stay away from anything containing silicate though. Used to be known as water glass, it WILL slug up a heater core or radiator as well, flushing will not work on it. Please follow directions for use religiously. Silicate was mandated to be used in the clunkers for cash program where the silicate was poured into the engine oil while the dealer ran the engine at near WOT. The silicate would convert to glass on the inside of the cylinders and lock the engine up tight, ruining it with government approval, this were the only way the dealer got reimbursed via that big fat ol guberment check. So silicate stop leaks might be best used as a last ditch resort, hmmmkay? Yet Prestone advertised it as a water pump lube for better than 30 years calling it silicone, and chrysler always had it in very dilute amounts in their mopar anti-freeze from day one. End of the day you can't fix a leak on a water pump with any stop leak, it must instead be replaced entirely. You can not lube your water pump, no ifs ands or butts.

[@dennisnelson7777]

Toyota's Coolant contains no Silicates, where as all other brands do...

[@bobbybanks7554]

Thank you Chris.... I think that might be my problem after I went and bought and replaced my blend door actuator and still have the same problem... blowing warm on one side and cold on the other side...I'm gonna try the flushing method.... thanks for your knowledge and time.

[@dcforte123]

Probably your control module for the climate control

[@Wheels1026]

Hey Bobby. I got the same hot driver, cold passenger heater temp problem after attempting to resolve an overheat problem. 2010 Subaru Impreza outback sport hatchback, 150k miles. Coolant was way too old, so flushed, added conditioner and subaru coolant and new thermostat. Burped. Vehicle still overheated but also the hot driver, cold passenger heater problem began. -10 January in Iowa. No good! The top radiator hose is Hot. The bottom radiator hose was quite cold. Figure the thermostat was good since new OEM so started to focus on water pump. Its not a hard job but not easy either. Sooo, i researched heater cores and figured that would be a cheaper easier thing to fix. Flushed the heater core with water, did get some fine sediment but nothing major. Current status? Car goes a 100mph for a hour, doesn't overheat, but the top rad hose is hot, bottom rad hose is cool, heater core inlet hot, heater core outlet warm.....and still the darn driver heat is hot, and passenger side cold. Just don't make sense to me. So, my question for you, the blend door actuator, did you do it yourself and did it solve the hot cold heater issue? Heater core replacement looks like a huge pain in the rear. So my next steps are: change cabin air filter, use an actual flush product with hot water on the heater core both ways several times. That don't work, change the water pump. Id sure like to do the actuator door first but havent found a single video after days of searching.

[@bobbybanks7554]

I have more than one blend door actuator I have to change the one on the driver's side... I've already flushed my system and changed my thermostat.... I'm gonna do that And I'm pretty sure that should solve My problem bruh.

[@timeless4495]

My 04 Toyota highlander has same issue. Help!

[@bobbybanks7554]

@Wheels1026 I know it's a Lil minute since I've been on here but I think I owe you a reply ...changing the blend door actuator did the trick for me...I actually have 2 blend door actuators passenger and driver side..I didn't know I had one on the driver side until I did a little more research...that fixes my issue..no I have to change another r one in my truck..its blowing hot in the front and cold in the back...I hope you've found the remedy to yours...good luck Mwrry Christmas

[@kevindemoss1347]

Love your videos and your calm informative voice! Just performed this on a 09 Jeep Liberty this morning which is the same motor and layout as your video. Worked like a charm! 😁 🙏 Thanks for the great video! Keep up the good work! Thanks, Kevin

[@kevindemoss1347]

A little update a year later. The problem has come back, so my advice when you are doing this for the firsr time is to use low pressure compressed air in borh tubes after doing this proceedure to make sure the core is totally open.

[@Miguelsotelo0]

EXACTLY THE VIDEO I NEEDED TO SEE. 2 days ago my 2010 Honda crv is experiencing this no heat problem. I'm commenting mid video btw

[@baileywhanau]

Did you resolve your issue using this method?

[@jeffburtonnottheracecardriver]

Remember the old Prestone T-connection to back flush the whole system from the heater hose? Makes one realize that garden houses are also 5/8" and you can use a Tee (clamped into an accessible section) with a cap and just connect the garden hose whenever you want to flush. Just use partial pressure from the house, so as not to blow out your car system that is only use to 15-20 PSI.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

Jeff Burton great tip your pretty cool for that Jeff !

[@grantharper7515]

I'm going to try this. Thank you! Will let you know how it goes.

[@drewmanning1025]

Question - if your heater radiator has a leak in it, would fluid be dripping out all the time when the heat is turned on making you lose coolant? When you do your cleaning flush, would it drip out then? I want to do this but was told that my heater radiator had to be replaced and the entire dash had to be removed for $2000. I'm not putting that kind of money into my 2008 with 204k miles but CAN'T WAIT TO TRY THIS !!

[@baileywhanau]

Great Vid !! Just to clarity... You mentioned rinsing the 'soapy' water and disposing down the toilet. So, after you poured the initial flush chemical into the heater core, what soapy solution did you pour into the heater core afterwards to clean it out?

[@sneekysmurf4754]

baileywhanau did you ever find the answer or one just as good please??

[@raymathews7035]

Why not use the garden hose? Attach a garden hose nozzle to the heater hose and turn on and do a reverse flush. This is how I use to do it. It always work for me. But you do have useful information here.👍🙂

[@kickdowndoors4291]

Couple years ago I used two bottles of Bars Stop Leak two-part system mix. I used two bottles. At the time, I had a leak coming from the top of the 2000 Ford F150 engine. Didn't have the money or time to fix. Was hoping it would give me some time. Now I hear Brian telling me I screwed up.I will do this job when it warms up. I still need to replace my upper intake manifold, crossbar plastic cracks and leaks on all of these engines, 5.4L and the 4.6L.

[@cragercrager9377]

Yes but msake sure u get the bubble out of the heater core bc i didnt an had to replace my intake ....

[@killawattgarage]

I typically run a garden hose with full pressure through the heater core to flush.

[@leebarnes655]

Dangerous advice as automotive coolant systems aren't rated for more than 17 PSI typically. They will pop apart at 60 PSI which is the typical water hose pressure.

[@killawattgarage]

I would love to have 60psi out of my house hose. Would be lucky to have 10psi!

[@leebarnes655]

Ahh, the old well pump I take it then. Same here although 20 is top end, 1 gal per minute is about all I can count on.

[@lieutenantlawson4295]

Lee Barnes lee are you in ALABAMA?

[@bdrichardson403]

I've done that dozen's of times. Rarely did it not work, tho I had to do it every fall on my grandmother's '65 Fairlane.

[@donshields4470]

You are one of the great mechanics!!! And, you teach very well...thanks!!

[@bdrichardson403]

Yes, Brian's methods, his teaching, lighting and camera work are superb...as is his outlook on life.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

I concur wish we can be friends

[@NAL63]

Will a clogged heater core affect your engine temperature? Thanks for the detailed video

[@3_AM__]

Are you getting heat though? Your thermostat could be stuck. Thermostats are cheap too.

[@oLMNOo]

It can..but not enough to bother anything unless ur having overheating issues.if ur having overheating then running the heat at full bore could buy u a few minutes by helping dissipate the heat but honestly its not goin to save u. It will only really help to a few degrees

[@timrichards8636]

Dude! Thank you ! I Have a 1999 jeep grand that came from FL they bypassed the heating system which for a Midwestern iowa dude makes no sense. I thought that they just bypassed it because it was leaking turns out its a FL thing i guess ? now i know what i need to fix this . fingers crossed !

[@kikoyyoutubetv8206]

Great sharing sir i should do that steps first or if not work I'll change my heater core

[@spelunkerd]

I don't know of any professional mechanic who recommends Stopleak, and there is only one popular but sloppy online mechanic I know who uses it. Mostly it seems to be guys who put it in with the intent to sell the car and pass future problems on to the next owner. That's a cool trick to permanently backflush the core! I wonder if burping is more difficult when flow is reversed -- presumably if flow goes in the top and out the bottom of the core, air bubbles might be reluctant to travel downward before getting back to the radiator. I guess if there was any problem you could burp the core manually before finally hooking the bottom hose back up....

[@banno6938]

Most things including stop leak have it's proper use. It is when you do stupid things that problems arise. Like if 1 can of stop leak is good 6 must be better .

[@NebukedNezzer]

Heater cores are likely not a tough as long ago. I had a air injection to a water hose and would hook it up reversed. turn on the water slowly till a little was coming through then add air to the water. the air bubbles would really loosen up crud. yes, its dangerous to the core but if done properly it worked great. another thing I never get twisty or rough with the hoses. Don't want to bust the heater tank connections. Like your video. Your method is safe and effective.

[@perpetualgrin5804]

Just changed heater hoses, cut off old ones you right no stress to heater core, too fragile.

[@666pinkster]

I think you just saved me an awful lot of money!!! THANKS MAN

[@toddoconnor4121]

Excellent video for this cold time of year. Thank you.

[@bigboyjeans9198]

I’m subscribing. Which probably means that you’re about to get some more traffic. Thanks for this awesome vid!

[@danny4866]

Thanks for this! Save alot of work and winter coming!

[@unclaritypodcast501]

I just came by the say I love your thumbnail on this video! 10/10!!!

[@Mrbbcwbjr]

Appreciate you brother a lot of people on KZbin. They just don’t explain shit the way it should be explained and you did an excellent job. Really appreciate it.

[@briansmobile1]

Thanks, man.

[@seatime674]

You MUST run the heat during the year so coolant flushes the radiator core and won't clog!!!

[@AdirondackNY]

I made an adapter to hook a garden hose to the heater core. I put frostless spickets outside my house with both hot and cold water but someone can hook the hose to the hot water heater in the house so when I turn the water on to the heater core I get a blast of hot water at 40 psi blowing in reverse through that heater core

[@briansmobile1]

#lifegoals

[@pauljustis2035]

Too much pressure.Need only 10-12 p.s.i.,careful can damage core.

[@joescheller6680]

@@pauljustis2035 exactly

[@dustinmeek4032]

When. I did mine is just pushed the hose and the end of a garden hose together and it worked great

[@dustinmeek4032]

Making an adapter seemed like a waste of time imo

[@chilidog73]

Also if you look at those vents right under the windshield. Make sure they don't have leaves and gunk blocking air flow. : )

[@carloscastaneda4628]

Leaf’s

[@awakenotwoke2643]

Leaves.

[@barbmelle3136]

Stop leak is a big problem. Muratic acid from the swing pool supply. Fill the heater core up with that, start flushing with water after 3 or 4 minutes. That is usually enough. It might take a 2nd time. Just don't splash it on you. Muratic acid is not hazardous once it is diluted with fresh water. Good Luck

[@Dave-co1cv]

Great video, but I would suggest using compressed air with the regulator and ball valve cut off (if applicable) set to extremely low, to that of a human blowing into the hose.

[@FelixCovarrubias-s4m]

I did this in a different way, blew into the purge hose on the coolant reservoir because my car doesn't have the cap on the radiator. I knew there had been some head gasket sealer used and did that to unclogging the coolant system, since I was going to change the water pump anyway I blew into it and the clot of the stuff got stuck on a water pump housing curve right before the thermostat I then took off the cover on the housing and got that clot of gunk out, gave it a rinse replaced the water pump and gasket on the housing and coolant flowed as good as new. It could be a bit dangerous if its not a closed system (crack in the radiator or air gets in somehow) so I did that while the engine was getting up to operating temp to minimize the chance of it spitting hot coolant in my face. This looks alot easier tbh, less dangerous.

[@ToveBelyea]

Just came across your video what cleaner did you use? My mechanic wants to blow air through my heater core but I would rather try this first.

[@jeffspishock1722]

A great and very informative video packed with valuable information, not boring either.Thanks for all your hard work, we need more like you!!!

[@bamamayo7890]

So if leaking in floor board just replace heater core?

[@Rancid_Ninja]

Just replace the heater core he said, like it was not something that the entire dash needs to come out for lol

[@saddlebroncSilver]

sire thanks for all information , that's help me a lot an'd that's why my 92 cadillac seville stopped heating, in the past I have used stop linking without knowing was happen and this s**** product clogged my heat core also mess up my radiator and cooler reservoir, I'm going to try clean those stuff until this winter and replace all on next summer =) thumbs up dude, thanks again.

[@1atinlove]

Awesome, I also got a jeep 3.7L. I have the reverse issue. I get only hot and no AC. The issue is its only on one side. So AC or semi-cold on drivers side, and heat on passenger side. Ive changed actuators., now im on the hunt for a leak. Any suggestions, love this vid and all your subie vids. You helped me do the valve covers...keep the knowledge coming

[@bluckq]

Did you figure it out

[@AdamMcCook]

Life saver! I discovered that I was critically low on coolant. Filled it up, and good to go.

[@sicknick6080]

Everybody forgets to check their blinker fluid too!! Critical Mistake!! The More You Know!!!

[@workingshlub8861]

good tip brian....do the same thing with tub and sink drains at home and you will never have backups....will melt away the hair and soap chunks that build up over time..every few months does the trick.

[@kansaspatriot2051]

Just an fyi.......The Dodge Nitro will have that heating issue around 100k but this will indeed fix the issue. Great vid!

[@mxr7586]

Just use a garden hose go one way then then switch. Do that several times till you don’t see debris put everything back together and you should have heat. I’ve done that for myself and other as well.

[@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726]

Another great tutorial Brian! I know you found BAR stop leak but I have had to back flush 1/2 dozen (maybe even 6:)) Jeep/Dodge SUV's recently. I don't know why it's almost like the old Taurus.

[@rommelong6617]

Replles

[@richkocon3443]

I've done this with a garden hose you could use compressed air as well.

[@colmoneill83]

Be carefull with compressed air, you could damage the radiator.

[@justlooking6898]

Incredibly-well-done video and highly-explanatory narration. Will put to good use after having done the 'I-shouldn't-have-thought-to-have-done-it-able' thing, lol---😭😰

[@StyleRevisedByCstclair]

Thanks for saving me from paying a mechanic hundreds of dollars to LITERALLY give my car a blow job…

[@colejohnson1960]

Great video. To the point and easy to understand instructions. Thank you.

[@buddycochransr.1842]

Great video. Done this way saves $. 🤠Older Michigan Mechanic

[@barrybowden5778]

Awesome video. I happen to have this problem so I will do this tomorrow. Thanks for posting.

[@briansmobile1]

Welcome Barry!

[@baileywhanau]

Did you resolve your problem using this method?

[@EXPLOREWITHME.]

I have a question ⁉️ ❓? Ive heard that the orange coolant has stuff in it to clog the radiator or other things. And said use green coolant? How true is this? Also im just seeing some small water amount in the floorboard. No window fog or other signs I have noticed that when i have the ac on. That around the vents sometimes there is moist around vent area. But isnt that way all the time. So im just lost here. Thank you. A new sub here as well. 😊

[@DaytonCarCare]

I just use the pressure from a garden hose and it helps to dislodge anything in the heater core. If it's heavily corroded inside try filling it with CLR and let it set overnight then flush it out.

[@macfady2181]

CLR will etch aluminum. Most heater cores are aluminum. Using CLR will clean it short term but result in more internal corrosion long term.

[@DaytonCarCare]

@@macfady2181 I haven't used CLR myself just water. Had read on a forum once is that is what they used.

[@rsage_]

Wish that Liberty was a CRD. I've got one and am half way done rebuilding the engine. Some Brian help would've been much appreciated!

[@brakedd]

Reminds me that I should flush the core on my Marquis. Heat is ok...but not very good. It's got the automatic HVAC controls with a bunch of O rings inside the unit since everything is vacuum controlled. I figure it's either a blocked up core or blend door problems because of worn O rings. The joys of used car ownership.

[@matteedstrom]

You can switch the hoses even if you have a valve on one of them. Makes no difference closing in or outlet side!

[@MultiCaseyR]

Nice video. Will this method work on a 2006 E90 BMW 330i?

[@212workout]

You mention one hose should be hot, the other cold. What if both are very hot? Ideas on what that would indicate?

[@Triplemyworth709]

It's normal for both hoses to be hot

[@212workout]

@@Triplemyworth709 thanks

[@MOUNTAINMANRC-MOTO]

Will this work on a 2011 Dodge Avenger? I was recently told by a mechanic that back flushing doesn't work on newer vehicles because they re-designed the core to use some kind of saturation material instead of a normal style tiny radiator.

[@elizabethrowlands9419]

maybe a con , ask a couple of other garages , or main dealer !

[@jamesbingham4538]

the worst running car in town belongs to the local mechanics wife. No damage intended, just a funny note. This was a huge help to fixing the Jeep heater not working. Was quoted 1000.00$ for the replacement.

[@MrBowNaxe]

Good stuff Brian! Another project to add to my list... Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to see what's next.

[@julielozano1390]

I own a 2005 Subaru Impreza ac and heat only works on high. I have used 2 resistors and it went back to normal for about 3 days. The blower motor when turned on it sounds like its going in and out

[@John-ky9nz]

Scale remover, or C.L.R. both work as a cleaner for the heater core, then flush with calgon detergent and flush with water. You can use a drill pump to circulate the cleaner to agitate the cleaner through the heater core for 1 hour or 2

[@John-ky9nz]

@A Mercer you are correct it can create a possible leak, cleaning the heater core out, using or not using a chemical if it flushes scale and lime that that is preventing leaks. I guess at that point you know you have to rip it apart

[@guysmith8095]

My parents said not to mix chemicals.

[@cynthiagonzales9131]

I hear you. Was at a Stop light to turn left on green. Before I pulled out some Hispanic Sherriff from Sedgewick County, KS ran his Red light looking at computer. Followed him all the way to Haysville, KS and never looked up. I was pissed.

[@alward9901]

I have stopped a rad leak in a emergence. With a tea spoon full of pepper , small leak only

[@n1chr0me6]

Wht, I thought Tail Lopez came to his wits and started making real videos :-)

[@briansmobile1]

I like thinking that!

[@drewyork8514]

The only reason I clicked.

[@xJAYDEMANx]

@@drewyork8514 same here. But the video helped me out a lot anyways, lol.

[@defineboredom]

so, you wanna come do this on my nitro? but, really... say all this has been done and it still blows cold? I've done a little self diagnostic and the core seems to be fine. my next thought is that it's the blend door actuator. i can hear a click when going from cold to hot, hot to cold, but the blend door seems to be faulty and doesn't stay open for heat. it's basically flopping back to cool air disbursement. as it looks like you were working on a dodge, do you have any tips on changing out the actuator? with my 2008 nitro, the actuator is on the driver's side, to the right of the accelerator, hidden behind a forest of plastic. the part is inexpensive, but I'm being the labour is $$$. what say you? this is actually the first video that actually made sense to me. almost all others were speaking at a higher level of knowledge, whereas you "dumbed it down" to my level, for which I'm grateful. any input or tips would be awesome. or, if you're paying through Topeka, KS anytime soon, I'll fix ribs in exchange for knowledge. 🤣

[@bryanburcham1381]

Proper. Seen guys use garden hoses...cold water for one...and higher pressure than the heater core is designed for....then they close it all up and wonder why they're dealing with leaks. Also seen guys use air compressors to blow through...don't recommend that either. I do recommend using distilled water, as even though you're flushing and trying to remove any left over water, there's gonna be some. And those minerals will cause damage.

[@msrockinrobin40]

I have transmission fluid in my Radiator due to Transmission Cooler Leaking and was told to replace Radiator and Upper/Lower Hoses first then flush it. Therefore, what is the best product to thoroughly flush out the Transmission Fluid in the Engine & Heater Core?

[@msrockinrobin40]

Thank you for responding but I already took care of flushing Transmission Fluid out of my Radiator, Engine & Heater Core. BTW: The Transmission Cooler is part of the Radiator on my Ford F150 Pickup so I had to replace Radiator & Hoses.

[@leonnegro4504]

Brake Masters in Tucson Arizona wants $1300.00 to replace the heater core on my 2003 Ford Explorer I'm going to have to try this. Thank you