Cheap Car Heater Fix at Home

[@catgray1]

You are THE MAN!! Haven't had heat in our Ford F150 in like 10 years. Your video popped up in my KZbin feed. My husband watched it, did what you said and it worked beautifully!! I have heat in my truck again! Can't thank you enough fir this video! Was easy, and only cost us about $65 for hose, coolant, cleaner and a radiator flush kit! Couldn't be happier! ❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@catgray1]

The heat hasn't worked in my 2005 Ford F150 pickup in years. Haven't wanted to spend the money to have the hearer core replaced. Going to show thus video to my husband so we can try this! I'm sick of not having a defroster, nor heat, in the colder months. Thanks for this super easy solution!

[@michaeldunn6760]

I've been a Automotive Mechanic for over 20yrs (M242675)- and I think your videos are awesome.

[@briansmobile1]

Thanks Michael!

[@MarzNet256]

Great how to. I know some people use a garden hose or compressed air but the high pressure can rupture the heater core. Using gravity-like you did-is much safer.

[@bdrichardson403]

Use garden hose only.

[@tomstapp2344]

Great idea! My brother and I just did this and it worked perfectly. Can't believe how much gunk came out. Glad I didn't pay my mechanic $1,200 to replace it. Thanks for being so informative and I appreciate how you explained everything.

[@BlueRibbonSongs]

Worked like a charm. Love that I finally have heat after over two years

[@hcote4457]

Thank you for the video! I was having heating issues in my Nitro. I followed your instructions and wow! Went from 60 to 140 degrees… nice and toasty now! Thanks.

[@mannm950]

Hey today's date 1/14/19. I just tried what this guy said do, it truly works. Last week my radiator started shooting out antifreeze and my cousin told me to try stop leak, worst mistake. I replaced the radiator, but the heat wouldn't come on. That stop leak mess clogged up my heater coil. So that's why I tried this, and now my heat is feeling really good. Thank you so much for this video. This will save u time and money, just do it urself

[@guysmith8095]

why BACK flush

[@martinradtke5181]

Interesting way of cleaning out the heater core. Thanks for the novel approach that directly cleans the heater core. Myself I would take the drain hose and hold it up. Then mix the cleaner and hot water and let the chemicals sit in the heater core for maybe 10 minutes. Then drain the heater core. Then drain & repeat as needed. Thanks for the new trick!

[@codeyhanna767]

Seen a couple videos on how to do this. This is the best way and most simple way. No making anything or some confusing method. Thanks for sharing

[@geekhillbilly2636]

You can reverse the coolant flow thru the heater core to quickly get heat. Use the engine to clear the blockage. I use a remote Oil filter Relocation kit as a coolant filter on the inlet side, going thru the filter then to the heater core. It catches the gunk that stops up the core and clears it from your coolant. You might have to change filters often at first for a real dirty system, but it pays for itself very quickly. I use this on my 1999 Ford Ranger with 213000 miles (2.5. L4 Engine). BTW I live in Southeastern Kentucky

[@JuanPerez-ul8mu]

👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@emanuelmyers3935]

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂❤😂😂😂 6:14 sent a😊😊😊😊 was ÇCAÀÀCAXAA😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[@walterl5217]

❤NBC 2😊

[@DustyBaker-z8s]

Genius

[@Richard-m6k]

Cool.😂🔥 Baby

[@jimmybrown1303]

Just did this to my 2002 f150 and I have HEAT!!! THANKS!

[@LatetotheFallout]

This video totally saved me hundreds of dollars. Followed your instructions, and it worked like a charm. I HAVE HEAT AGAIN. Thank you so much.

[@ronmassaro9527]

Great video - followed every step and it worked. My 2003 Chevy Tahoe is blowing hot again! My only problem was both hoses felt equally hot, so I couldn't tell outlet vs inlet. I checked a few other videos and found one that said that the outlet is normally higher to allow for hot air to rise out of the system; that worked for me. Anyway, loved watching your video; great no nonsense style. You are the King!

[@ipwee]

My heater works fine, But I still watched and loved the video. Thank you.

[@MrDmmeeks]

Have done this more than once. Always used clr and let it set overnight in a warm garage. Flush like made with water in both directions. Saved a lot of headaches.

[@garyolson3315]

Very informative video. Having had 4 sons and rebuilding many motor vehicles, I can't stress enough, don't use stop leak. It is a band aid that will eventually turn into major problems in the future. I am currently having issues with no heat the on the drivers side of an '06 Land Rover LR3. Wish me luck........ ;-) Thanks for the video!

[@chuckychuck]

You're a excellent teacher, follow your direction from this video lord and behold when i pull off my heater hose there was no fluid in it, nothing were flowing through it, heater core wasn't the issue there was a block in one of those line, I back flush both hoses and blew through the heater core lord and behold heat was coming through the vents this car never idle at 145 degree 120 was it ide temp now she's heating up like a boss my thermostat opens up at 197 for ford taurus antifreeze was green as it can be when I drain it

[@donaldcarter3393]

I love it because you didn't have tear dash. And no need of removing a lot of bolts etc. I also love the idea of flushing rather than buying and tearing down as I've previously stated up top. Thanks Brian

[@ravipateluk]

Nice video...i would use electric kettle to heat & pour, i find it safer

[@Ken-harris]

Thanks for the great idea I was over thinking it

[@Eurospec73]

Hey Brian I'm brand new to your channel, thanks for posting this video, it really gives me a better understanding of how to flush out my heater core instead of replacing it.

[@mikeoxlong1167]

You just became my new go to KZbin vehicle repair guy! 1st time watching, and u are really articulate, and love how u aren't affected by someone's brittle feelings, lol! That's awesome, thanks for the info!

[@bamamayo7890]

So if leaking in floor board just replace heater core?

[@Rancid_Ninja]

Just replace the heater core he said, like it was not something that the entire dash needs to come out for lol

[@markieb98]

When you reversed the hoses to the heater core at the end to continue the back flush process as you drive, aren't you sending any knocked loose particles into other parts of your closed system?

[@adiadrian1758]

Same question here !!??

[@nmattcar]

"stop leak or some other type of garbage" perfect word choice.stop leak is the Devils egg

[@briansmobile1]

I've seen plastic components from water pump impellers, coolant flanges, flush kit T's, etc plug everything up when they get old and disintegrate.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

I have recently herd the same thing. Replace your girls Radiator or she will replace you wink 😉

[@miami1393]

We were having a hard time w/ a 2003 Acura TL, did full coolant flush and flushed the heater core as well, coolant would come out nice and clean and clear, but the car would continue to overheat whenever we turned on the heater in the cabin, and of course, the heat was never hot enough, it would hover around 95° at the hottest. We thought we still had air bubbles so we kept bleeding it and bleeding and still nothing would cure the problem. Flushed the heater core again and the water would come out clear. Finally, I bought a 'typhoon' air gun for my compressor. I again did a flush of the heater core, but this time I poured about 8oz of distilled water at a time, after pouring the water in, I'd take the typhoon air gun and press it against the return hose (I attached clear vinyl hoses to the existing heater core hoses), squeezed the trigger on the typhoon gun and it rushed a violent amount of air into the core, at the other end a lot of that copper sand and crud came out with the water. I did this 'till I got almost no sand/crud come out the other end (about 10 gallons worth, no kidding). This finally solved the engine overheating and lack of heat out of the vents. Note, make sure you secure the out-hose down at the basin and cover the basin with a towel or something or it will thrash around like a chicken w/o a head spilling water all over. Hope this helps.

[@hungrynapps]

this is d best explanation i got on KZbin so far. .lol. i think my radiator cover wasnt tight enough n i was losing water . got a new cap. need to top up my coolant . n try to flush my clog

[@dustinharnden6373]

Watched your vid when my heater crapped out. Flushed my core. Works great now. Thanks man!!

[@bobbybanks7554]

Thank you Chris.... I think that might be my problem after I went and bought and replaced my blend door actuator and still have the same problem... blowing warm on one side and cold on the other side...I'm gonna try the flushing method.... thanks for your knowledge and time.

[@dcforte123]

Probably your control module for the climate control

[@Wheels1026]

Hey Bobby. I got the same hot driver, cold passenger heater temp problem after attempting to resolve an overheat problem. 2010 Subaru Impreza outback sport hatchback, 150k miles. Coolant was way too old, so flushed, added conditioner and subaru coolant and new thermostat. Burped. Vehicle still overheated but also the hot driver, cold passenger heater problem began. -10 January in Iowa. No good! The top radiator hose is Hot. The bottom radiator hose was quite cold. Figure the thermostat was good since new OEM so started to focus on water pump. Its not a hard job but not easy either. Sooo, i researched heater cores and figured that would be a cheaper easier thing to fix. Flushed the heater core with water, did get some fine sediment but nothing major. Current status? Car goes a 100mph for a hour, doesn't overheat, but the top rad hose is hot, bottom rad hose is cool, heater core inlet hot, heater core outlet warm.....and still the darn driver heat is hot, and passenger side cold. Just don't make sense to me. So, my question for you, the blend door actuator, did you do it yourself and did it solve the hot cold heater issue? Heater core replacement looks like a huge pain in the rear. So my next steps are: change cabin air filter, use an actual flush product with hot water on the heater core both ways several times. That don't work, change the water pump. Id sure like to do the actuator door first but havent found a single video after days of searching.

[@bobbybanks7554]

I have more than one blend door actuator I have to change the one on the driver's side... I've already flushed my system and changed my thermostat.... I'm gonna do that And I'm pretty sure that should solve My problem bruh.

[@timeless4495]

My 04 Toyota highlander has same issue. Help!

[@bobbybanks7554]

@Wheels1026 I know it's a Lil minute since I've been on here but I think I owe you a reply ...changing the blend door actuator did the trick for me...I actually have 2 blend door actuators passenger and driver side..I didn't know I had one on the driver side until I did a little more research...that fixes my issue..no I have to change another r one in my truck..its blowing hot in the front and cold in the back...I hope you've found the remedy to yours...good luck Mwrry Christmas

[@Nuke21]

I'm glad you mentioned to not use stop leak. People don't realize those cheap "fixes" either don't do anything, or they cause more damage than before. I have a million idiots bring their car to our shop and wonder why their injectors are bad because they ran injector cleaner in their gas tank. They don't realize it doesn't work. It is common sense that if it is safe for your plastic gas tank, it isn't going to eat carbon. Anyways, on-topic, as a last resort for a customer that flushing didn't work because it was so blocked, knowing I was going to have to replace it anyways, I put a low pressure heated pressure-washer to one end and that was enough to break the blockage without rupturing the heatercore. Just a thought as a last resort especially if it doesn't work or breaks the heatercore, you had to go in and do it anyways.

[@All2Skitzd]

There are service manuals and TSB that beg to differ, On some Cadillacs and other aluminum blocks it says to ACDelco cooling system tablets (which are Bars stop leak tablets according to MSDS) and on the trucks that had issues with the fuel sending unit they say to use ACDelco complete fuel system cleaner (Chevron according to MSDS) and ACDelco injector cleaner (also Chevron) on injectors and ACDelco fogger (forgot what brand it really is) on the carbon buildup Using a pressure washer with either a soap tip or no tip at all on the gun works about the same as a pulsating cooling system cleaner (and surprisingly enough cost about the same)

[@boondock6055]

Nuke injector cleaner might not be so bad depending on what it is still will do little to none but all that other mechanic in a bottle shit is garbage

[@Locococo000-j2d]

Nuke what about lucas fuel treatment?

[@boondock6055]

No the only thing I've used to clean injectors is seafoam and never had a problem,but if they aren't spraying right it's best just to change it out

[@mattrondeau7466]

So muriatic acid that is packaged in plastic bottles won't eat carbon? Or concrete? Or flesh? Common sense, you say?

[@KennethWatson-g4h]

There is a screw that holds the windshield wiper cowel right above the passenger side that has a small o ring. The o ring might be deteriorated, or the screw is missing or loose. Had the same problem on my 97 Suburban. Drove me crazy for a couple weeks fixed the problem, no more leak. Good luck.

[@raymathews7035]

Why not use the garden hose? Attach a garden hose nozzle to the heater hose and turn on and do a reverse flush. This is how I use to do it. It always work for me. But you do have useful information here.👍🙂

[@Miguelsotelo0]

EXACTLY THE VIDEO I NEEDED TO SEE. 2 days ago my 2010 Honda crv is experiencing this no heat problem. I'm commenting mid video btw

[@baileywhanau]

Did you resolve your issue using this method?

[@JayPoster490]

Thank you so much for this video. I do not have a hose outlet at my home and I never thought of the zip tie trick. You the man!

[@briansmobile1]

You are so welcome!

[@pi1797]

Nice video. I have a 01 S-10. That crazy truck since we bought it had 50k miles on it. Now at 115k. I have had to replace the water pump and radiator twice. All because of that Dexcool. I used Blue Devil radiator flush then replaced the coolant with universal coolant. OMG that little truck will roast you now. After the flush it did go through another water pump. But no more radiator replacements

[@amejia3305uuujjeggtt]

Just found your channel and I gotta say I love it man. I hope this helps me. I’ve got no heater or defroster and idk what my problem is.

[@bigboyjeans9198]

I’m subscribing. Which probably means that you’re about to get some more traffic. Thanks for this awesome vid!

[@MOUNTAINMANRC-MOTO]

Will this work on a 2011 Dodge Avenger? I was recently told by a mechanic that back flushing doesn't work on newer vehicles because they re-designed the core to use some kind of saturation material instead of a normal style tiny radiator.

[@elizabethrowlands9419]

maybe a con , ask a couple of other garages , or main dealer !

[@MultiCaseyR]

Nice video. Will this method work on a 2006 E90 BMW 330i?

[@drewmanning1025]

Question - if your heater radiator has a leak in it, would fluid be dripping out all the time when the heat is turned on making you lose coolant? When you do your cleaning flush, would it drip out then? I want to do this but was told that my heater radiator had to be replaced and the entire dash had to be removed for $2000. I'm not putting that kind of money into my 2008 with 204k miles but CAN'T WAIT TO TRY THIS !!

[@leebarnes655]

Bar's leak name used to mean something. It wasn't the copper or aluminum powdered gimmick deal, but Bar's had so much competition from alumaseal they went ahead and made their own and now you can buy it with Bar's name right on it too. In the meantime the original formula for Bar's leak went away, it was actually molasses and plant parts such as ground pepper. This molasses formula type does not plug anything but where it leaks. Until you know what you are doing be sure to stay away from anything containing silicate though. Used to be known as water glass, it WILL slug up a heater core or radiator as well, flushing will not work on it. Please follow directions for use religiously. Silicate was mandated to be used in the clunkers for cash program where the silicate was poured into the engine oil while the dealer ran the engine at near WOT. The silicate would convert to glass on the inside of the cylinders and lock the engine up tight, ruining it with government approval, this were the only way the dealer got reimbursed via that big fat ol guberment check. So silicate stop leaks might be best used as a last ditch resort, hmmmkay? Yet Prestone advertised it as a water pump lube for better than 30 years calling it silicone, and chrysler always had it in very dilute amounts in their mopar anti-freeze from day one. End of the day you can't fix a leak on a water pump with any stop leak, it must instead be replaced entirely. You can not lube your water pump, no ifs ands or butts.

[@dennisnelson7777]

Toyota's Coolant contains no Silicates, where as all other brands do...

[@seatime674]

You MUST run the heat during the year so coolant flushes the radiator core and won't clog!!!

[@jeffburtonnottheracecardriver]

Remember the old Prestone T-connection to back flush the whole system from the heater hose? Makes one realize that garden houses are also 5/8" and you can use a Tee (clamped into an accessible section) with a cap and just connect the garden hose whenever you want to flush. Just use partial pressure from the house, so as not to blow out your car system that is only use to 15-20 PSI.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

Jeff Burton great tip your pretty cool for that Jeff !

[@Russi4N]

Good video, thanks for the info. Although would be nice to see a before and after temperature reading from the vents.

[@killawattgarage]

I typically run a garden hose with full pressure through the heater core to flush.

[@leebarnes655]

Dangerous advice as automotive coolant systems aren't rated for more than 17 PSI typically. They will pop apart at 60 PSI which is the typical water hose pressure.

[@killawattgarage]

I would love to have 60psi out of my house hose. Would be lucky to have 10psi!

[@leebarnes655]

Ahh, the old well pump I take it then. Same here although 20 is top end, 1 gal per minute is about all I can count on.

[@lieutenantlawson4295]

Lee Barnes lee are you in ALABAMA?

[@bdrichardson403]

I've done that dozen's of times. Rarely did it not work, tho I had to do it every fall on my grandmother's '65 Fairlane.

[@unclaritypodcast501]

I just came by the say I love your thumbnail on this video! 10/10!!!

[@markthomas625]

Very good explanatory/instructional video on heater core problems in vehicles.

[@StyleRevisedByCstclair]

Thanks for saving me from paying a mechanic hundreds of dollars to LITERALLY give my car a blow job…

[@kevindemoss1347]

Love your videos and your calm informative voice! Just performed this on a 09 Jeep Liberty this morning which is the same motor and layout as your video. Worked like a charm! 😁 🙏 Thanks for the great video! Keep up the good work! Thanks, Kevin

[@kevindemoss1347]

A little update a year later. The problem has come back, so my advice when you are doing this for the firsr time is to use low pressure compressed air in borh tubes after doing this proceedure to make sure the core is totally open.

[@sand0077]

Great info and easy to follow. Will try this on my wife's 91 Mitsubishi Eclipse and see what happens. 👍

[@angsfs203]

My truck is only running hot air while im driving, not while idling. Could a blocked heater core do that as well?

[@kickdowndoors4291]

Couple years ago I used two bottles of Bars Stop Leak two-part system mix. I used two bottles. At the time, I had a leak coming from the top of the 2000 Ford F150 engine. Didn't have the money or time to fix. Was hoping it would give me some time. Now I hear Brian telling me I screwed up.I will do this job when it warms up. I still need to replace my upper intake manifold, crossbar plastic cracks and leaks on all of these engines, 5.4L and the 4.6L.

[@cragercrager9377]

Yes but msake sure u get the bubble out of the heater core bc i didnt an had to replace my intake ....

[@ToveBelyea]

Just came across your video what cleaner did you use? My mechanic wants to blow air through my heater core but I would rather try this first.

[@MrEngineering12]

Hi, both my heater core hoses in my car are hot, but still the heater is only OK on first blower setting, if I set it to blow faster the air is lukewarm or even cold. Could there be a chance the heater core is a bit plugged. The coolant is nice and red on expectation in the cooling tank. The car is not driven a lot, especially in the summer it stays parked a lot. Thank you for any advice!

[@joblowu]

i only have heat when im driving and it blow cold air when i do my stop. do you know what could cause the problem? awesome video btw

[@sneekysmurf4754]

joblowu possibly a water pump I’m not 💯% but I would target that area first just to cross it off my ( that’s not it ) List. Keep ur head up there’s help out here bud

[@donshields4470]

You are one of the great mechanics!!! And, you teach very well...thanks!!

[@bdrichardson403]

Yes, Brian's methods, his teaching, lighting and camera work are superb...as is his outlook on life.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

I concur wish we can be friends

[@colinandrews2380]

Been following your channel for quite some time. Have recently become a first year Automotive Tech Apprentice and the knowledge I've gained from your videos have given me a boost going into the trade. Big fan, will be sending you a plate soon. Another thing I've found involving that stop leak stuff is sometimes it clogs up the thermostat and holds it open which causes lower than normal temp through the vents as well. Cheers Brian! Love the vids! Huge fan!

[@briansmobile1]

Great point- and great to hear that you're doing well- thanks!

[@grantharper7515]

I'm going to try this. Thank you! Will let you know how it goes.

[@julielozano1390]

I own a 2005 Subaru Impreza ac and heat only works on high. I have used 2 resistors and it went back to normal for about 3 days. The blower motor when turned on it sounds like its going in and out

[@rickspanbauer5104]

I have 2004 ford explorer. Their is more heat on the floor than their is coming out of the defrost. I put a new switch control on. I am thinking about removing the vacuum line for floor and see if more will go to the defrost. Do you have any ideas. Thanks Rick

[@msrockinrobin40]

I have transmission fluid in my Radiator due to Transmission Cooler Leaking and was told to replace Radiator and Upper/Lower Hoses first then flush it. Therefore, what is the best product to thoroughly flush out the Transmission Fluid in the Engine & Heater Core?

[@msrockinrobin40]

Thank you for responding but I already took care of flushing Transmission Fluid out of my Radiator, Engine & Heater Core. BTW: The Transmission Cooler is part of the Radiator on my Ford F150 Pickup so I had to replace Radiator & Hoses.

[@alward9901]

I have stopped a rad leak in a emergence. With a tea spoon full of pepper , small leak only

[@666pinkster]

I think you just saved me an awful lot of money!!! THANKS MAN

[@abiel.rodriguez]

did you permanently leave the hoses inverted?

[@dennisnelson7777]

My 2000 Ford Tarus has a closed coolant system, no radiator cap, only the reservoir...how do i get the air out of the system, assuming there might be air in it?...I took the top hose where it's attached to the thermostat housing...yeah...i put Bars Leak Copper in it to stop the water pump leak...and it did...and it stopped my heater from working too!...( it's winter here in Idaho...didn't want to work outdoors fixing the pump until Spring)

[@guysmith8095]

Especially with frozen conditions am I right?

[@kaleidoscope8743]

Before permanently back swapping the hoses, could the control valve/module is inside, under the dash?

[@212workout]

You mention one hose should be hot, the other cold. What if both are very hot? Ideas on what that would indicate?

[@Triplemyworth709]

It's normal for both hoses to be hot

[@212workout]

@@Triplemyworth709 thanks

[@AgustinaQuinteroFelix]

Hi i have a question. I have attached the heater core for the heater. Whats the other hose core for? I know they come with two.

[@Mrbbcwbjr]

Appreciate you brother a lot of people on KZbin. They just don’t explain shit the way it should be explained and you did an excellent job. Really appreciate it.

[@briansmobile1]

Thanks, man.

[@timrichards8636]

Dude! Thank you ! I Have a 1999 jeep grand that came from FL they bypassed the heating system which for a Midwestern iowa dude makes no sense. I thought that they just bypassed it because it was leaking turns out its a FL thing i guess ? now i know what i need to fix this . fingers crossed !

[@jamesbingham4538]

the worst running car in town belongs to the local mechanics wife. No damage intended, just a funny note. This was a huge help to fixing the Jeep heater not working. Was quoted 1000.00$ for the replacement.

[@NAL63]

Will a clogged heater core affect your engine temperature? Thanks for the detailed video

[@3_AM__]

Are you getting heat though? Your thermostat could be stuck. Thermostats are cheap too.

[@oLMNOo]

It can..but not enough to bother anything unless ur having overheating issues.if ur having overheating then running the heat at full bore could buy u a few minutes by helping dissipate the heat but honestly its not goin to save u. It will only really help to a few degrees

[@spelunkerd]

I don't know of any professional mechanic who recommends Stopleak, and there is only one popular but sloppy online mechanic I know who uses it. Mostly it seems to be guys who put it in with the intent to sell the car and pass future problems on to the next owner. That's a cool trick to permanently backflush the core! I wonder if burping is more difficult when flow is reversed -- presumably if flow goes in the top and out the bottom of the core, air bubbles might be reluctant to travel downward before getting back to the radiator. I guess if there was any problem you could burp the core manually before finally hooking the bottom hose back up....

[@banno6938]

Most things including stop leak have it's proper use. It is when you do stupid things that problems arise. Like if 1 can of stop leak is good 6 must be better .

[@johnreed4646]

How can you differentiate between it being the heater core or the blend door actuator?

[@garybradford8059]

I didn't watch the whole video because I know what my problem is. But somewhere around the first b'mobile shows you. Check the hoses going thru the firewall to and from the heater core for heat. If one is hot and the other isn't then the heater core is probably etc. etc. Watch the video again.

[@jeffspishock1722]

A great and very informative video packed with valuable information, not boring either.Thanks for all your hard work, we need more like you!!!

[@chilidog73]

Also if you look at those vents right under the windshield. Make sure they don't have leaves and gunk blocking air flow. : )

[@carloscastaneda4628]

Leaf’s

[@awakenotwoke2643]

Leaves.

[@hepzlawrence7710]

Would this work for me? I tried to flush mine out with a garden hose a little trickle of water came out at the start and then nothing and hoses were very hard(high pressure) but nothing coming out. Not sure if previous owner used stop leak or if its rust particles as the opening of the radiator has rusty looking water/coolant🤷‍♂️

[@baileywhanau]

Great Vid !! Just to clarity... You mentioned rinsing the 'soapy' water and disposing down the toilet. So, after you poured the initial flush chemical into the heater core, what soapy solution did you pour into the heater core afterwards to clean it out?

[@sneekysmurf4754]

baileywhanau did you ever find the answer or one just as good please??

[@EXPLOREWITHME.]

I have a question ⁉️ ❓? Ive heard that the orange coolant has stuff in it to clog the radiator or other things. And said use green coolant? How true is this? Also im just seeing some small water amount in the floorboard. No window fog or other signs I have noticed that when i have the ac on. That around the vents sometimes there is moist around vent area. But isnt that way all the time. So im just lost here. Thank you. A new sub here as well. 😊

[@justlooking6898]

Incredibly-well-done video and highly-explanatory narration. Will put to good use after having done the 'I-shouldn't-have-thought-to-have-done-it-able' thing, lol---😭😰

[@buddycochransr.1842]

Great video. Done this way saves $. 🤠Older Michigan Mechanic

[@Montserrat9080]

I have the same problem on my car is that a 07 dodge nitro u did this video on I replace the heater core n thermostat n still no heat what can I use to clean out the radiator

[@barbmelle3136]

Stop leak is a big problem. Muratic acid from the swing pool supply. Fill the heater core up with that, start flushing with water after 3 or 4 minutes. That is usually enough. It might take a 2nd time. Just don't splash it on you. Muratic acid is not hazardous once it is diluted with fresh water. Good Luck

[@kikoyyoutubetv8206]

Great sharing sir i should do that steps first or if not work I'll change my heater core

[@FelixCovarrubias-s4m]

I did this in a different way, blew into the purge hose on the coolant reservoir because my car doesn't have the cap on the radiator. I knew there had been some head gasket sealer used and did that to unclogging the coolant system, since I was going to change the water pump anyway I blew into it and the clot of the stuff got stuck on a water pump housing curve right before the thermostat I then took off the cover on the housing and got that clot of gunk out, gave it a rinse replaced the water pump and gasket on the housing and coolant flowed as good as new. It could be a bit dangerous if its not a closed system (crack in the radiator or air gets in somehow) so I did that while the engine was getting up to operating temp to minimize the chance of it spitting hot coolant in my face. This looks alot easier tbh, less dangerous.

[@toddoconnor4121]

Excellent video for this cold time of year. Thank you.

[@nancydigiovanni8268]

What kind of cleaner did you pour in? And how much? (That whole bottle?)

[@stoltzk]

So is it correct that if I smell antifreeze coming from the AC vent than the core is bad?

[@danny4866]

Thanks for this! Save alot of work and winter coming!

[@mxr7586]

Just use a garden hose go one way then then switch. Do that several times till you don’t see debris put everything back together and you should have heat. I’ve done that for myself and other as well.

[@pierreledeutch1552]

As for a cleaner, would CLR or something similar be to strong of cleaner?

[@NebukedNezzer]

Heater cores are likely not a tough as long ago. I had a air injection to a water hose and would hook it up reversed. turn on the water slowly till a little was coming through then add air to the water. the air bubbles would really loosen up crud. yes, its dangerous to the core but if done properly it worked great. another thing I never get twisty or rough with the hoses. Don't want to bust the heater tank connections. Like your video. Your method is safe and effective.

[@perpetualgrin5804]

Just changed heater hoses, cut off old ones you right no stress to heater core, too fragile.

[@richkocon3443]

I've done this with a garden hose you could use compressed air as well.

[@colmoneill83]

Be carefull with compressed air, you could damage the radiator.

[@icemancometh8679]

My temperature gauge goes up to about the 1/4 mark, I replaced the thermostat have it full of antifreeze & I get lukewarm heat in the car. I replaced the heater core and I can still see it under the dash because I might have to replace my air conditioner evaporator which is above it. So I can stick my hand right down there and it just seems lukewarm. I'm wondering if it's my water pump but I can't tell. The weep hole is clean as a whistle and the pump itself looks fine - I wonder if it's the bearings or the blades internally. I'm cold and hot both - they told me I have a leak in my evaporator but I want a second opinion.

[@CharlesNolanArt]

i got an acura RDX i have never had a problem but went to turn on heat its cold on both sides no matter where i position it. Think i could have plugged core?

[@allenlundy1]

How many bottles of the cleaner was used? And I hear you say soapy water is that from the cleaner or from a mother step?

[@srhabb]

Will this work with trying to get out head gasket and block repair out of the heater core?

[@kansaspatriot2051]

Just an fyi.......The Dodge Nitro will have that heating issue around 100k but this will indeed fix the issue. Great vid!

[@petrocksgarage]

Great video. Where you get that hood work light? How is it attached to the hood?

[@jeffreypetree7163]

Got a question ? I'm not getting heat. I put in a new thermostat . I've tried bleeding out the bubbles of air from my coolant system . By jacking my 98 ranger 3 p up in the front and using a funnel were the radiator cap goes. Letting it run and Pouring antifreeze up in it squeezing the top rad hose to burp it. Just seems i can't rid of the air. It doesn't show any signs of a bad head gasket either. Theres a bleeder but the bolt snapped off so i cant use it. To me i can't see it circulating ? The top radiator hose seems pressured up with air. Sometimes i cant quiet feel any coolant by squeezing it. I took off one of the heater core hoses to see if its pumping coolant through . its odd it seems it does but doesn't like a pause then it'll come through ? Idk what to do. I know my heater activator isn't working so the door doesn't switch over from cold to hot . My main Concern is the other . the air pockets and the flow of coolant. Truck runs good tho no over heating at all. Really got me puzzled. Thought of changing radiator cap ?

[@briansmobile1]

If both radiator hoses get hot you've getting flow. If they aren't then you're not. That could be a bad water pump or air accumulating at the thermostat so it can't get the spring hot enough to open it. A bad head gasket can cause combustion CO2 bubbles in the water jacket that accumulate at the thermostat.

[@jeffreypetree7163]

@@briansmobile1 okay