Checking out the Labocosmetica Preludio 3pH rinseless system and how it can be a go to in the winter

[@Angelo_Trifilio]

I'm using Preludio Alkaline and Acidic regularly with my preferred rinseless product and to me it's a game changer.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

You're absolutely correct. I've been using it now regularly and you can feel a big difference after a rinseless using both. It feels not just sluck, but like you have a freshly applied coating. It does seem to remove that tiny little bit of leftover stuff that you can't see, and that doesn't even seem to impact the water behavior.

[@Angelo_Trifilio]

@@TheOutdoorDetailer I agree, with this new washing system, the rinseless method has reached its full maturity.

[@AmirAbdullah]

I’ve been using it, I like the 1:8 dilution ratio for the acid and 1:10 for alkaline ans I get great results

[@debtennis1301]

Picked these up from THOR with the BF sales - excited to try these out!! Great video!

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

@@debtennis1301 so easy to use. You'll love the system. The price was great as well! The 4.5 has been sold out at Autoality for some time now, or I would have that already.

[@kerrychhim9983]

I use this and it is good for what I want to use it for. I am now testing the OG rinseless wash ONR with Preludio for winter Also good for the door jams

[@barrybij8079]

I just ordered on the current sale on THOR...I have to garage wash my car now in Illinois

[@Ecdetails]

Great demo bro Preludio does soo good

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Yeah, the cost sucks, but if you apply to the needed areas, it really costs less to use than one would think.

[@Ecdetails]

@ time vs dollars - so for me if I don’t have to take a hose out , foam it , spray off , do it again for acid at the end of all of its cheaper and you don’t need it every wash even if you did you use so little

[@shaungudgud3549]

@@Ecdetails for lowly apartment dwellers like myself, even with a garage, there are no hoses so products like these are key.

[@Ecdetails]

@@shaungudgud3549ya - for anyone who doesn’t have running water these are key

[@seabrew1]

@@TheOutdoorDetailer i don't share your opinion its expensive. Its a tool not to be used every wash. You can get over 20, 16oz bottles from 1 liter? How is that expensive for an alkaline cleaner. Now if you use both products all the time, yeah that would add up.

[@trifin5772]

Great video, thanks. Pretty much everything I’ve tried from Labo has been a keeper. They need a simple rinseless with no protection imho.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

They're actually working on it. They do VDA certification on their products, though, so it has to get thorough testing before it comes to market.

[@trifin5772]

@ That is good news! You live in a beautiful part of the world man, I love the outdoors videos, kind regards!

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

@trifin5772 thanks!

[@TheBreakfastLover]

I'm a bit reluctant to leave on anything acidic or alkaline that doesn't get thoroughly rinsed off with water. There's someone on one of the FB groups where the Labo 3 pH rinseless process caused fracturing of their ceramic coating

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

I highly doubt there is any truth to that in any way. Again, the 3pH doesn't mean it is 3pH, it means 3 different pH levels of products used. Some rinseless washes are 6 or even 8pH.

[@TheBreakfastLover]

@@TheOutdoorDetailer I went back to the original FB post. It appears that user applied Preludio Alkaline, then applied ADS Hero. I suspect what happened is the SiO2 in Hero interacted with the Preludio Alkaline and left chemical staining that so far hasn't come off with APC, clay, waterspot remover. Even though Labo says Preludio can be use with any rinseless wash, I doubt they've tested every rinseless wash out there and probably best to keep it all within the Labo brand.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

I have both and can test them together in the next few days. I seriously doubt the staining story, unless left to dry in the hot sun.

[@TheBreakfastLover]

@@TheOutdoorDetailer thanks, yeah I'm also thinking they used it on a hot surface and let it dry in the sun.

[@shaungudgud3549]

I got this direct from labocosmetica usa during the black friday sale. Hopefully this can replace a whole slew of products, I might actually be able to go full rinseless. Ego is releasing a new mini portable powerwasher, so I'm excited to finally be able to do all my detailing at home.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Wait, a mini pressure washer? I'm in! Labo stuff is phenomenally good and I tested almost all their stuff in training. The rinseless is weaker than the stuff that needs to be rinsed, but used as a normal system you shouldn't need to go way more powerful. I really think that's a big positive of the rinseless system though. It's so easy to use without a hose or pressure washer and so you use it on a consistent basis. even though it was only a month since I applied most of the coatings on the car i showed in the video, I can tell they brought the slick to the touch feel back even more than I got my last few rinseless washes.

[@shaungudgud3549]

​@@TheOutdoorDetailer I hope to get some of the effects back as my coating is nearing the end of its life. I don't want to polish my vehicle either so I might try waxes or longterm sealants.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

I just saw that new pressure washer on the EGO site. If it winds up being less than $400 I think I am a player. I have some 5ah batteries too, and they still made it so it draws water from a bucket. This could be my new fenderwell, wheel, and tire setup, and even perhaps for spraying salt off the undercarriage with one of the Ryobi sprayers on wheels. (I can then try the new Chem X salt stuff)

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

I'm really torn because EGO now has the OG pressure washer minus batteries for like $450. I already have a couple 5ah batteries, and it puts out a lot of water. Size is my concern. How do you feel about the pros and cons of the smaller new unit vs the OG large unit?

[@pigeonpoo1823]

Thanks for the demo. Seems really good for ceramics, but I'm still dubious for wax / sealant use. I can't find it now, but I'm sure when i looked on the SDS it said Preuldio contains sodium hydroxide. That will surely eat a lot of sealants. Shame, because i really want to lile this product

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Waxes don't last very long by nature so I likely would not be very concerned. I understand the sealant concern though, and I guess would be interesting to see if maybe one could then respray with the rjnseless and then apply some sealant as a drying aid to reapply. I'm not sure any would appropriately cure in really cold temps, but I think in the warmth that would do the trick.

[@AmirAbdullah]

I’ve used it on plenty of sealants and at 1:10 it doesn’t hurt but the weakest sealants

[@pigeonpoo1823]

@AmirAbdullah excellent, thank you

[@pigeonpoo1823]

@@AmirAbdullahused it today. 10:1 works really well. Don't use that much. Didn't even need to get the Worx Hydroshot out. My thinking is that even if Preludio does eat an LSP, I'll just use regular toppers, like bsd, as a drying aid, just to help. Thanks again

[@AmirAbdullah]

@@pigeonpoo1823 Any time bro glad it worked out for you. For dirtier vehicles go to 1:8 and work panel by panel have plenty of pre soaked towels in buckets.

[@joevanseeters2873]

I just got the Labocosmetica Idrosave Rinseless wash to try out although I want to try the Preludio (both versions) too since I live in Colorado and need that to break down the winter road grime left on the vehicles in the winter time! Labo seems to be doing the "science" behind detailing products and I have been enjoying everything I have from them. I also just got their multi-step interior fabric system to try out against my current favorite which is Koch Chemie POL STAR, one of the best interior detailing products out there. That Preludio combo is going to be my next detailing product purchase as rinseless is my primary way of washing, especially in these Colorado winters where you can't use your outside hose bib due to being frozen solid. I do mostly use distilled water though just to reduce some of the streaking and water spotting. I also use it for any diluting of products that I do in bottles just so the chance of the minerals in the tap water interfering somehow with the chemical, but that's just me and my OCD probably. I don't have a DI system so I spend far too much money on distilled water from the store but it's what I got at the moment. Great review and explanation of this great product line. Also great tips on how to actually do the rinseless wash itself. One question I myself would ask Labocosmetica however is how caustic are these Preludio rinseless wash products? One being high PH and one being a low PH, how much do they break down the wax, sealant, or coating you may have on your paintwork? How much does your protection of choice DEGRADE every time you utilize the Preludio option (either one or both)?. That would be an interesting test. Put a wax or sealant on the paint, then use both Preludio's on a long term wash test to see if they break down your wax or sealant faster than if you use just a PH neutral normal rinseless wash product? I personally am a fan of using PH products most of the time unless I really need a heavy hitter. I was using a certain brand of Wheel & Tire Cleaner only to find out it was a PH of 14 and was doing a great job, i'll give it that, it did, but what I didn't realize was that it was stripping my wax & sealant right off the rims everytime I washed the vehicle with that product. The same thing happens using a lot of these high and low PH products on the paintwork on every wash or even every other or every third wash. The high and low PH stuff breaks down waxes and sealants faster than the Road Runner runs away from Wiley E. Coyote in the cartoons! Great if you want to do that in a decontamination wash, but not so good if you just waxed or applied a sealant to your paintwork. Granted, some people will say it's not a big deal because they use a good drying aid. For me personally however, I want the wax and sealant that I applied to last for a couple of months at least (or longer) and not break down prematurely by using a high or low PH product (or both as recommended by some detailers). Again, that's just me. It would make for an interesting test though. None of these companies will tell you how fast their products will BREAK DOWN PREMATURELY any wax, sealant, and in many circumstances ceramic coatings because they want you to buy more and more of their products! But any high or low PH product WILL BREAK DOWN any wax, sealant, or again, in certain instances ceramic coatings far faster than if you use a PH neutral soap. There is much debate on the subject and I too am a fan of high and low PH stuff 100% in decontamination wash processes, 100%. One of the more unique products I have for decontamination washes is Crystal Wash from P&S. It dries on the paint and "crystalizes" and you pressure wash it away. It's an acidic wash with a PH of 4 I think, but it is supposed to do what an iron remover does, but in a foam on soap product. I like it personally and incorporate it into my decon wash process. Very unique product for detailing. And then I hit it with a high ph product like Super Clean or Purple Power for the high PH side, again, ONLY when I am doing a full decon wash with iron remover, clay bar or mitt, high and low pH soaps, etc. The whole shabang as they say. But that's really the only time I use a high or low PH product on my vehicles. Detailing has progressed and evolved at a startling rate since the invention of the internet and especially KZbin which has highlighted all these various processes now considered "standard" in the industry. I still remember washing my car back in 1980 with a cheap pink dish soap (very popular back in the day) with a cheap dish sponge or terry wash cloth degraded from using in the bath, using a cheapo $2 wash bucket. That was it! You didn't have the thousands of products you have now days. For interiors I used an old rag and some Fantastik from under the kitchen sink. Of course, most interiors back then were vinyl so Fantastik was the best choice. Then a coat of Armour All on the wheels! LOL. Yes, I admit, I used Armour All and NuFinish car wax, the 100 car wash car wax! It was highly publicized back then on TV for those of us who remember. Another wax I always used was Meguiars Cleaner Wax in the maroon can (still available today) and it gave decent results and helped to "clean out" the paint pores using a chemical in the wax I guess. I just know it performed ok for what we had back then. Hell, even the old goopy green Turtle Wax in a tall glass jar was decent. You just had to reapply it every other week but it worked ok. My point is that too many people get sucked into the "hype" of detailing rather than just washing with common sense using whatever products make you happy personally. There is no hidden trick to washing and cleaning your car. Sure, there are good processes and recommendations for sure, and great products available now days too, but even a cheap all inclusive wash "kit" from Costco, a bag of Kirkland Microfibers, and using Simple Green as your APC, wheel cleaner, and interior cleaner, along with a good ole' bottle of cheap Windex will give you great results. While having a $2,000 Kranzle pressure washer with a $400 CR spotless system, $1,000 more added high end stainless steel medical grade fittings, lances, extensions, and upgraded hoses, a $150 foam cannon, $4,000 in garage cabinets, $350 for buckets, $700 for a high end rolling chair, $2,000 for the best chemicals, $2,000 for four different types of polishers of various sizes and all the pads needed for those polishers, $400 in every type of brush known to man, $500 worth of high end microfibers and special sponges, all to wash a Honda Accord daily driver that cost far less than the cleaning products and accessories themselves, well, you see where I am going with this. $40 in products will yield similar results and to the average citizen out there, they probably couldn't tell the difference. I only relay my own stupidity over the years spending what I could have bought a Porsche GT3 RS for in cash for on detailing products. It's almost a sickness and it's for sure a RABBIT HOLE no matter which way you look at it. I see a LOT of people on KZbin that have cabinets FULL, and most of the time MULTIPLE cabinets FULL of hundreds of different detailing products and it makes me chuckle when I see them wash their $4,000 used daily driver. Trust me, I am so far down the rabbit hole, I fell out the other side of the earth! My wife cringes everytime I tell her I am buying another detailing product. She gracefully tries to remind me to go look at my cabinets in the garage but it always falls on deaf ears and I buy yet another hyped up detailing product. I am under the KZbin spell too! I just wish someone would wake me up from the detailing products NIGHTMARE! LOL. Great channel buddy and thank you for your honest reviews and useful demonstrations.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. So Reggy told me in the training session I had that some of their stuff was worked on for 7 years. Plus they do VDA certification. (Check that out) the pH level of the purifica at something like 100 to 1 is roughly 3, and at 200 to one is around 4 I think. There are a lot of high pH apc products out there, like Forst from Starjnaglass. That's a pH13 but works fantastic. I don't care so much personally if a sealant gets removed, because they're not made to last like a ceramic, and should be easily reapplied. Most ceramic coatings today can resist the full pH range or very close, so I wouldn't worry about that. Save yourself a few bucks and only get the Preludio alkaline vs the acidic. It's going to be the most used. Oh, and it is weaker than the primus and purifica.

[@LSD04]

I’d go higher with the alkaline, easily 1-15, 1-20, you can also just dilute it straight into your pre spray bottle instead of having two bottles.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

The pre spray rinseless comes straight from the bucket. Easier to keep it separate. If I use it every wash the higher dilution might make sense, especially if I do the entire car and use the multipro

[@AMI_Detail]

@LSD04 I remember an interview with Reggie and thought I heard something about using Preludio directly into the prespray. I want to see if this is what you are saying: Mix your rinseless at 256:1. Then, treat that as the "water" portion and mix that at the 10:1 with Preludio Acidic (aiming at breaking down the inorganic contamination of salt and minerals in Winter road grime). This would basically "boost" the acidic cleaning power of the rinseless. Then use the standard 256:1 rinseless in the bucket for the normal "contact" step of the rinseless wash method. I would compare this to some of the DIY Detail videos where they add All Clean to the Incredible Suds foam cannon mix to boost the cleaning power. I've used the DIY Detail soap mixed like that and it left the paint squeaky clean.

[@LSD04]

@@AMI_Detail 🎯

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

The issue with mixing the preludio in with the rinseless in the bucket is that you are going to use more product. Even if you are mixing at 50:1, you'll use 5 ounces in a 2 gallon mix. If you only use it in the multipro then I guess you could get away with 1 to 2 ounces, but then you need to make up that solution each time when you start. By just spraying like I did, the sprayer is already sitting there ready to go, and it is mixed at 10:1 vs a much higher ratio. I also guess you could just mix a multipro up with the preludio and label it as alkaline prespray. (the make multipro units for alkaline mixtures) I guess it really boils down to time spent and what you are willing to do at the start. I would rather have everything mixed before I come outside, rather than mix as I am filling the multipro. I would likely feel different working in a garage.

[@tadeloach22]

I am a huge fan of the alkaline. It just melts the bugs away in the summer.... I however have not been impressed with the acidic. I had clogging on fenders and doors. Did a full wash and used the acidic after the wash on those spots followed by rinsless and it did not bring the beading back. DIY WSR however did. Just my experience.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Appreciate the feedback.

[@paulgyro]

Honest question, why can't one just use an APC followed by a rinseless wash instead of Preludio?

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

An APC usually needs to get rinsed off before you would do a rinseless wash. With the Preludio, no rinse is needed in the process, unless you require it to remove a lot of dirt. Not all APCs are alkaline, either, and they vary wildly by strength. The strongest one I've tested so far is Forst from Starjnagloss as it is a pH13 and super powerful. Others are much weaker.

[@redoxp1204]

hi, i would like to try this rinseless wash method but i'm very worried about scratching, swirling my paint. Do you have hazing, swirls with this method ? thank you

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Rinseless is just as safe as a normal wash method. The key is to make sure you follow the same steps prior to washing with rinseless as you would a normal wash method. If you have mud or a lot of grit on the car, you clean that first. The rinseless only replaces the contact method of the wash, not any prewash your vehicle may need.

[@acquiesce1064]

What coating do you have on your car?

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

The trunk and rear and front bumpers are not coated. The hood has Detail Company Slim and Thick. The front passenger fender and front passenger door has the Thick, while the rear passenger door has Slim. The roof and rear drivers door, and both rear quarters have Gyeon Pure with Can Coat Pro. The front drivers side fender and drivers door has Cerakote V2. People seem to love the Gyeon Mohs, but from my experience with the Can coat and Pure, I will never recommend a Gyeon coating again. The SUV now has the CLEAN 8 year coating on all the paintwork. If you have a specific question about any of them, I'd be happy to try to answer.

[@WolfAbarth]

Will the acidic wash help to remove road salt?

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

The acidic is really only needed when the minerals have actually stuck to the surface or bonded with the surface. Most people would use an APC, which in most cases in an alkaline. Use the alkaline first to remove organics before using the acidic as it is most likely you won't need the acidic.

[@dvdarpan]

Are you able to find the PH of these products?

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

I just mixed a fresh batch. The Preludio Acid at 15:1 measured 1.6 on my meter. The Alkaline at 10:1 measured 10.6. Thinking I'll probably do more like 30:1 on the acid for my monthly or bi weekly maintenance during winter.

[@seabrew1]

Why don't american's use %/vol! I make Preludio 10%/vol usually. So 100ml in a liter bottle or 50ml in a 500ml bottle. Its so simple.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

Because we don't use ml generally. 😆 our system is gallons, which is strange because 100 ounces isn't a gallon, it's 128 ounces. Anyway, 1:10 is more like 9%. I don't make the rules.

[@WolfAbarth]

I'm planning on trying to make a 3ph system using some more affordable chemicals; Koch Chemie - RRW(Rinseless), RS (Acid) & GS (Alkali). P&S - Absolute (Rinseless), Crystal Wash (Acid) & Brake Buster (Alkali)

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

There are a lot of companies that product high and low pH products, but none other than Labo that will offer it as a rinseless type product. All others must be rinsed away. BTW, I would not use brake buster, I would use their new Frostbite if you are using a hose/pressure washer.

[@WolfAbarth]

@@TheOutdoorDetailer I not sure there is anything too special about the chemicals that Labo are using, I think It's all down to the dilution, you are never spraying the Preludio on the car and allowing it to dry, you are washing it off with rinseless. It would not suprise me if the preludio is just a weaker purifica and primus

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

You really aren't washing it off though. You are only diluting it with rinseless on the surface, and then wiping away with a drying towel. But, by all means, do your experiments. That might save people a ton of money going forward.

[@seabrew1]

Preludio Alkaline is great. Not sure i will get the acidic. I think i will just get labocosmetia's energo They encourage people to think for themselves and become a better detailer. Unlike DIY for instance with the dumbed down marketing. God forbid you dilute DIY rinseless at 1:200. I have a half a gallon left of DIY.

[@TheOutdoorDetailer]

That's some pretty powerful stuff. I think i would do purifica if needed and see if I could do it in a dilution that required no or minimal rinsing.

[@seabrew1]

@@TheOutdoorDetailer yeah i might get another bottle of purifica. It was my first favorite of Labo. I've used purifica 10%/vol on panels before. It works for sure.

[@andrianstoykov107]

@@TheOutdoorDetailerI tried that with Purifica (1:30 as I remember) it felt very slick and did its thing. However, it foams and sponge is not able to remove it. I had to use dampened microfiber towel to wipe it clean and became very tedious. It’s good for small spots but definitely not for the whole car.