Chevy S10 / GMC Jimmy 4X4 Switch Repair (Cracked Solder Joints)

[@fxrmike5145]

My son was so excited when he found this video...he now has 4wd👍

[@philneubauer402]

My switches needed to be re-soldered and I did that, it helped the lights come back on in the buttons and it was obvious that it needed to be redone, they were so bad that you could see them disconnected from the board. But, it still didn't fix the issues I was having. I checked the ATC (Automatic Transfer Case)(could also be called the TCCM or TREC) fuse under hood and someone put a 30 amp fuse in the 20 amp slot and it was blown. Replaced it with the right one and it worked immediately.

[@salty107]

Just fixed my 4wd. All but one were bad. One lead on the transistor was bad also. Thanks!!!!!!!!

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

Awesome, glad the video helped!

[@TheRyanable]

Very helpful step-by-step. I imagine the one dislike on this video is from some asshole at a dealership that wants to charge you a couple hundred bucks to do this.

[@coisasdodiaadia809]

TheRyanable você pode traduzir pra mim por mensagem de texto o defeito

[@benwalker8358]

How do you get the transmission fluid out of the vacuum line

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

Wow, just past 10,000 views!! Never expected to make it to that number... When I made the 3 videos starting up this channel I got really into it but didnt know at the time that I had a baby on the way so life got even busier than it already was and I just havent touched it since, I hope to get back to it soon. Thanks for the views and sub if you like it, more good material will follow.

[@TheHeroOFTime27]

hi so I see that you got the little orange lights to work what about the lights that light up the 2hi 4hi 4low? you know the white background lights?

[@tomservo5347]

All the views is all the people having the same problems with this piss poor, overly complicated design that has made GM plenty of money by design because I'm having a similar problem. I've heard there's an aftermarket cable link you can put on in place of the encoder motor for a direct mechanical link-eliminating the electronics. (Less the better IMHO.) At one point engineers became really good with mechanical means and now electronics has made them lazy.

[@pianoman6394]

Great video, saved some money, thank you man.

[@curtisalan4402]

Yes sir, thank you for your time my man.

[@lberg30]

Thank you you just saved me some money

[@Sterling_Silver04]

I'm guessing this is what is wrong with my '99. Switches only work intermittently, and if I slap the dash right above the switch it powers up again for a bit, which to my reckoning is indicative that the contact gives it just enough connection to work.

[@norbertovazquez9249]

thanks for the video! I have Chevy S10 similar problem .

[@cj8172]

Hi mate great video. I've just picked up a 99 Blazer 130,000ks. I have power to all 3 switches but the 4wd buttons "flash" instead of stay solid. The 2wd top button works fine, but the HI and LOW 4wd buttons keep flashing instead of staying solidly on. Any idea what's going on there? I was thinking maybe a vacuum leak possibly?

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

It could be a vacuum leak, or it could be the actuator on the transfer case. The fact that the lights flash means that the transfer case control module is probably fine, its looking for the actuator/shift motor on the transfer case to send a signal that it shifted and looking for a signal from a switch on the front differential that tells it that it has engaged. If it doesn't get those it won't continue and will go back to 2WD. First, try putting it in neutral when rolling slowly and see if it will shift, sometimes they won't shift if there's any bind in the driveline. Next, with key on and engine off, try 4HI and listen to hear the shift motor on the transfer case click. If you don't hear anything, then its probably the shift motor, check all of your fuses and look at the wiring first though before replacing it. If it does make a click noise, its probably ok and its a vacuum leak between the engine, the switch on the transfer case and the front differential actuator (located under the battery) What I do with every one of these systems is plug the vacuum line at the engine and lock the front actuator on. Thats the best way to make this system reliable. This makes the front differential engaged all the time, but not the transfer case. No big deal, this is how the Bravada and Astro/Safari vans are setup from the factory, the front differential is engaged all the time and the front driveshaft is rotating, it doesn't make a noticeable difference in fuel economy either, but people think it does, either way, I'd rather have my 4X4 when I need it, if I was worried about saving fuel I wouldn't be driving a 4X4, haha. Anyway, that would be my initial thought process on diagnosing issues with this system. Good luck!

[@cj8172]

@@autorepairtricksnmore391 Ok mate thanks heaps for your advice much appreciated.

[@jamesheyworth1]

What was it that lead you to replace the switch? Were you not receiving any indicator lights from the switch itself? I have a 98 Jimmy that sounds like it's going into 4x4 (hear a small clunk) but it stays in 2 wheel, even though indicator shows 4 low. Any idea?

[@jamesheyworth1]

Also there is an ABS light on, and the brakes lock up..not sure if that has anything to do with with. But when I jacked the rear end off of the ground, and had the truck in neutral the right rear kept on like it was still in drive. Maybe the switch near the transfer case?

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

James Heyworth Yes the original reason for repairing the switch is because the lights do not light up and it will not operate the 4X4. If you are hearing the click of the shift module in the passenger kick panel or you can feel the actual clunk of the transfer case shifting on the floorboard then your switch is fine. One wheel spinning doesnt really mean anything, all it takes is a little bit of friction in the brake pads to hold one side stopped and the other will spin free, however, if you cant rotate that stopped wheel by hand then you may have a seized rear caliper. ABS will not affect 4X4 operation as far as I know.

[@tomservo5347]

I have the exact same problem. I can hear the actuator 'clunk' but front end doesn't lock in even though my light claims '4-Hi'. I have to go to 4-Lo to make it finally lock in. Blazer forum claims it's my encoder motor not knowing 'where' it's at.

[@Blueknight1960]

@@tomservo5347 Yes I know I'm about a year too late but, take the switch apart and clean the hell out of the 3 contact points on the switch, including the little brass dots. Cleaned mine because of dirt/dust build-up and now it works fine. A pencil eraser and some 0000 steel wool works wonders.

[@waltersteffensthezr2man431]

I can't tell you how many times I have put in junkyard switches that let me down on the trail I finally just went and bought a new Switch the quality isn't as good but it's reliable for now I suck at soldering otherwise I have about five switches at home I could fix LOL

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

Yep, always nice to have a spare though, fix one and verify it works and keep in the glovebox.

[@efwefwef4747]

What was the issue with it? Mine is currently working but while in 2 x 4 the light likes to turn off If I hit the dash the light will turn back on

[@efwefwef4747]

+efwefwef Nevermind just watched the whole video! thanks

[@coisasdodiaadia809]

Fron Brazil

[@StingrayLS7]

How does this switch come out of the dash .thanks

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

Pop the dash trim bezel away from the dash, it just snaps on, no need to completely remove it, just far enough out so you can get behind the switch. Theres a couple tabs on the sides in back that need to be pushed and then it pops out the front of the dash bezel. Usually can just tilt it to one side and pops free.

[@StingrayLS7]

@@autorepairtricksnmore391 Thanks

[@coisasdodiaadia809]

Se fosse legendado seria melhor

[@mariomartinezayala866]

Palanca altorada