Chinese three jaw chuck

Taking apart a new three jaw chuck and giving it some added accuracy.
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gtwr.de/
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[@godfreypoon5148]

My lathe had live tooling for a while... Turned out it was just missing the earth connection and had some bad insulation.

[@Volcker1929]

Lol

[@brooks3racing1]

Very few comments actually make me laugh. This is one of the few. 👍

[@Ink-and-Blood]

lol

[@isaiahcampbell488]

Part of me is laughing while the other is terrified!

[@howardosborne8647]

Unearthed machines always give a great ’live' performance

[@dizzolve]

00:57 lol "I bought this on purpose" . :D

[@tesladrummer]

"Cheese grade" screws. Let's hope it's at least hard cheese ;)

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nicely done as always. I have one of these chucks for a project and will be doing the same.

[@larryschweitzer1007]

You buy it for $69 after the retail mark up, shipping & ??. What did the manufacturer get for it? $35?? It had to have been made on automated equipment, very quickly. There are a lot of parts (20?) that are quite accurately made. Cast, forged, machined, heat treated, ground, hand assembled, packaged & shipped. An impressive feat.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I pretty much garantuee you that it is made all on manual machinery, each one setup for a special task. Just how we did mass production 40 years ago. Labor is cheaper than Cnc machinery ;)

[@JasperJanssen]

Stefan Gotteswinter you kind of get into definitions of what counts as "manual equipment". On the one hand, there's equipment that is as general as possible, and everything is set up for each new job. On the other, there's equipment that's as general as possible, and is reprogrammed by computer. And then in the middle there's (potentially much simpler) tooling that is made to a very particular job and is "programmed" at least partially in the design phase. I wouldn't call the middle category either manual or automated - it's just tooling. And if it's made to do a particular job on multiple sizes of item, say, does it really matter whether there's a hand wheel or a motor that tells it whether to do 75 or 100 mm size? Or even changing over a template? Labor even in China is getting more and more expensive. The bigger factories are moving to as much automation as possible already.

[@eduardocarvalho2391]

Larry Schweitzer tchau

[@ProfRonconi]

Jasper Janssen: Exactly. The cheap Chinese manufacture era is about to end, as it did in the US and Europe. I am not complaining: Chinese workers deserve to be paid a fair wage. What worries me is precisely what you point out: automation is unbeatable in terms of costs, and soon we will find ourselves in a world where everything is automated and people cannot work. That will effectively end the market. Even traditional trades will eventually be replaced by intelligent machinery. What will be there for humans to do? Who will get paid to do what? How will billionaires keep their fortunes when there is no-one left to buy their stuff? Interesting times...

[@cryptopyro]

Agree with you completely. We are at the very start of the era of artificial intelligence being incorporated into machines that can replicate human movement and locomotion, as depicted here:kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZ_SgIt4gauEY9U In 15 years time, the refined mechanical humanistic locomotion combined with high-level Artificial Intelligence will have human store workers and even office workers rendered as obsolete equipment by their employers. As you have correctly mentioned: "What will be there for humans to do? Who will get paid to do what? How will billionaires keep their fortunes when there is no-one left to buy their stuff?"

[@jimmilne19]

Chuckled when you pointed out the CE mark ie. China Export ! funny. This "rejuvenation" session was quite interesting; enjoyed.

[@DoRC]

moly is like roofing cement. it just spreads onto everything. especially expensive textiles.

[@forrestaddy9644]

I've always gotten along pretty well with "cheap Chinese crap." You know in advance it has to be cleaned and de-burred so the work you do isn't done by Chinese labor and that lowers the price. And if the chuck or whatever needs some minor adjustment and re-fitting, that also lowers the price. So, yes, it can be a kit of assembled parts but when it's cleaned and fettled and tuned up, your new Chinese widget is pretty good enough for most work and since you've been all through the item you know what to do to compensate for error or deficiency - or not use it at all - for demanding work. You pay the low price and do the final work yourself or you pay a higher price and get roughly the same result (leaving premium quality articles out for the moment). What I don't understand is the reason for the blistering contempt from some quarters. If you don't like the "kit of parts" approach, don't buy into it. Complaining you can't work with stuff other people can make serviceable is like admitting you can't make lemonade from lemons. Thanks Stefan. You provide us with another valuable lesson. I'll refer the noobs to this video for info on cleaning, detailing, and inspection of three jaw chucks.

[@DrewLSsix]

While people lament the end of US production as it was they forget or are unaware of the truth that until the rise of consumer grade throwaway products the standard procedure was always to tear down clean and lube the new tool or parts when they arrived. You didnt simply take your new thing out of the box and put it straight to work, not if you wanted it to work right anyway.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Chucks aren't the only tools in what they leave the grit, they do it also in hydraulic jacks and more, got to do their cleaning before use or else the tools won't last... When it's cleaned you can apply a Bison or Rhom sticker on the surface... ;)

[@stacysimon8864]

Young man, I love your videos. Thank you for explaining common sense. Keep up the outstanding work!

[@ChrisB257]

Though cheap - surprising value really. Nice detailed evaluation and tweaking.

[@howder1951]

Great subject Stefan! Every home shop enthusiast with a lathe (and cheap chucks) can benefit from this tune up, bravo!

[@TheRealWeirdoC]

I love that you're familiar enough with American English to even throw in some Spanglish at the beginning there with "El Cheapo". :)

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I learned that from...the simpsons :D

[@waynerobinson2301]

Stefan Gotteswinter i cant begin to express my appreciation of your post or

[@alanhardman2447]

Cory Buckles - Yes, and appears he knows the difference between dollars and bucks. I'd bet not one or two in a hundred Americans know that difference.

[@cvtsboy]

Cory Buckles hi

[@ProfRonconi]

I don't know the difference! I've always assumed that "a hundred bucks" was akin to "a hundred quid" in British English. What IS the difference?

[@HangarQueen]

Watching this 6 years after production (!) and still very helpful. I noticed that you apparently didn't mark the jaws and chuck as you removed them. I thought it was important to make sure they each went back into their original slots -- because they're ground "true" in place at the factory.

[@Ale_Lab]

If it can help, I have the same chuck type; the numbers are on the side of the jaws (in the side slot, you can see them at minute 6:20). Same goes for the chuck, but the numbers are inside the grooves, so not so handy to spot them (you can see it at minute 33:50).

[@nlo114]

Nice job. I have found that some of the pricier Chinese products are made from marginally better materials, so the first thing to do before use is to re-engineer them. I've had 89 degree angle plates that needed squaring up; a band-saw that needed everything doing, and a pillar-drill that needed re-squaring and aligning. Once these machine tools have been sorted, they seem to last quite well in the hobby workshop. My drill-press is now 35 years old, bandsaw 30, etc etc and still reasonably accurate, ie fit for purpose.

[@1ginner1]

Hi Stefan. I know this was six years ago and you may have adressed my comment, but..., I realise that you are only using this chuck on the mill, but it would have been interesting to find out how much runout there was between the o/d of the chuck and a part held in the jaws, in case someone was going to use it on a lathe.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Hi! Unfortunately I dont know - I never checked that, because I always dial that chuck in, when I mount it. Six years already...I still use it all the time :D

[@bcbloc02]

Surprised all it needed was the jaws ground. You have gotten it to finished specs now from its semi finished condition. :-)

[@audikid89]

The first time I ever used a lathe was in high school in 2005 and my shop teacher had fitted all the lathes with a safety switch that was located down a tube that could only be pressed when you inserted the chuck key into the tube it was a pretty ingenious way to make sure no kids accidentally turned on the machine with the chuck key in the chuck

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Our apprenticeshop has the same thing on the mills. I am very much against it, because it teaches them, that the machine is harmless and nothing will happen if they leave the key in the chuck and turn the machine on..

[@musaepadumbratus2326]

There must be assholes on youtube disliking and downgrading vids. There is nothing wrong with this vid. Why the dislikes??

[@Voxters]

Well, i didnt dislike the Video, but there is one thing: You dont grind a Chuck on a seperate Machine. You mount it and grind it rigth on the Machine where it will be used.

[@fordguy8792]

Because not everybody has the exact same standards as you for likeability? Being white knight comment Gestapo seems to be the in thing, lately. "The rating and comment features are reserved ONLY for rabid fans of the creator and must think everything uploaded is awesome and perfect!"

[@Skironxd]

Very interesting to hear you describe how each of the parts were (or may have been) manufactured. Also interesting to see the inner workings of a scroll wheel chuck!

[@tsclly2377]

Nice.. I liked the initial skepticism aND CLEAN UP, but would not have taken off the rpm marking or the 'made in China'..

[@darynradcliffe2909]

I've had quite a few Chinese "kit" tools over the years and only had a couple that were beyond a re-finish, definitely well worth the money and time spent, makes me wonder how much badge engineering goes on with some of the big brands stuff????

[@melgross]

Well, you get what you pay for, usually at least, in machine tools. But it’s $69, so really not too bad. I’m often pleasantly surprised at the quality of Chinese things these days. If you’re so dismissive of Chinese screws, then maybe you should replace ALL the screws and pins in the chuck. But they’re rarely bad, really. It’s a small chuck, 3,500 doesn’t seem outlandish.

[@Billydevito]

Ha ha ha!! Chinese products are NOT finished products. They are crappy ‘kits’ that need to be finished or sometimes, fixed, before you can use them. Do not buy if you need good results or your professional reputation relies on them. They will end up costing you more.

[@wizrom3046]

Cool! You bought a $69 block of cast iron, and they even carved it into a "chuck shaped object" for free! Good old China.

[@zombieprinting2670]

Buy something perfect, and that's all you get out of it along with probable good outcome, but nothing else. Buy something that may need upgrading or work and you gain knowledge along the way and knowledge is power. Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing with us :)

[@glennfelpel9785]

Great video Stephan, enjoyed the grinding as much as you did. Very inspiring.

[@PhilVandelay]

Regarding the grinding of the jaws: You could just chuck something in and then face them directly in the lathe right? Or would you advise against that because of the large interruption in the cut?

[@crpth1]

Phil Vandelay - Although it can be done or improved just as you describe. The way he did is way more accurate. That part is treated alone, independently of other cumulative errors already present in the lathe (spindle, back plate, etc...) ;-)

[@mcgama88]

Installed an older South Bend model C in my workshop last week. A bare bones unit that needed cleaning and care, it came with a back plate but no chuck. So your instruction very useful indeed, as I continue to build the machine for general turning. Thanks for the post. M.

[@mikeking7470]

How much "billable time" did you put into your $69.00 chuck to bring it in to your "specs"? Loved this video.

[@JaakkoF]

Pretty much the same as the Zither "premium" chuck I purchased from Arc Euro Trade Co Ltd. It had the jaw guidance slots ground non-planar, there was a bit of meat right next to the undercuts making it bind in the chuck body. AET/Zithers comment on this was that "Indians like it tighter", while the real reason is sloppy workmanship and improper grinding wheel dressing (or lack of such). I made a video of it. Later I also found out that the jaws axial steps were ground with the same problem, the grinding wheel been worn from its edge and thus creating a non-flat surface. Basically the steps have a nice radii in them when looking from the side. All in all, the price is low, but best to remember that you are actually purchasing a project and not a finished tool.

[@timothyball3144]

Throwing away the safety spring? You need a visit from the safety goat.

[@EZ_shop]

Nice work! Now I've got to start checking all my chucks :-(

[@JeffreyVastine]

Nice walkthrough of everything you should check and test on a chuck. that could be applied to any make, especially used and the infamous Chinese chucks. Thanks for sharing mate!

[@mikegreen8517]

Thank you for the "inch" conversions as they give a point of reference to those of us not intimately familiar with divisions of millimeters as they compare!

[@jessehall8168]

@@jonWilk8156 oh no... 2 thou is 0.05mm, so 0.01 is just under half a thou

[@jessehall8168]

@@jonWilk8156 yeah 1mm is 40 thou roughly (39.37). I don't remember any of it I just calculate on my phone based off conversion factor 1inch = 25.4mm

[@Sammus7t]

@@jessehall8168 Same. 25.4, 2.54, etc. is easy enough to remember, but getting too fancy with memorized equivalents would just get me into trouble.

[@jessehall8168]

@@Sammus7t yeah agreed, the only equivalents I remember are the most common ones to me. Half inch, and eighth inch. Not quarter for some reason lol I always end up dividing half by two to figure it out.

[@ProfRonconi]

Your videos are excellent, but you have a tendency to dismiss all Chinese products as crap. I'd challenge any European or American manufacturer to produce a lathe chuck for 60-70 bucks. I know there are fabulous chucks by European and American manufacturers, but they cost about 10-20 times as much. With a little over 60 bucks and a few hours work you got yourself a nice, reliable chuck. Shouldn't you show a little more gratefulness? In my case, if it wasn't for Chinese manufacturers I'd be unable to work at all.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I point just out what is good and what bad. I also pointed out that the chuck is for the price quite good value.

[@ProfRonconi]

Indeed you did. Sorry about that.

[@randomperson8695]

Anybody else binge watching Stefan's videos despite the fact they've never worked in a machine shop? Thanks for the cool videos, Stefan.

[@BickDE]

Interesting and informative Stefan. Another very nice video. Bob

[@wolfitirol8347]

The Chinese are no idiots they know exactly what they do they calculate very good so what you pay is what you get but if a machinist is able to make precise parts why cant he transform a not so good made chuck into a good usable... Stefan proves it all the time

[@tnekkc]

15:00 "Not sure how to grind this spiral" I think it is a constant radius spiral.The rotary table advance has a constant ratio with the mill X advance.... r (1- cosine a)...... one degree rotation on rotary table is followed by (R) (0.0001523) in X direction on mill table.

[@joshward7896]

Nice video. The crown gear cannot be machines with a hobbing process. Probably some derivative of Gleason Conoflex system. Or, a milling operation with indexing. I think I see circs from an milling cutter running out of centers.

[@kyliejm2]

Stefan, what brand and model is your pantograph?

[@franciscoanconia2334]

I have an issue with the disdain you talk about chinese products. Let's see you try and sell such high quality at such a low price.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thats not my intent. In the grand scheme of things the items are low quality, yes. But for the money they are good value, and thats the point I tried to make. Also they are a great base to work off. I still have the chuck and use it on a regular basis.

[@brzibung]

I love the precision that you are able to achieve without the use of computerized equipment. Your dialog is common sense and at times filled with subtle humor. Continue your excellent presentations, please.

[@johnambler3107]

Great video Stefan. I've just bought a rotary indexer with a 5" chuck for the mill and they are still in the box and the first thing I'm going to do now is strip the chuck down and clean it out and lube it up. I would never have stripped one before, but now I know what's inside I'm going to give it ago.

[@middleroad00]

So, I was messing around with my 8" today, the pinons are a mess - binding bad. When I came in to grab dinner and fired up KZbin, guess what video was in the recommended section? How do they do that?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

They spy on you via every electronic device. Better put up a tinfoil hat.

[@theorboguitarmaker8155]

.. it is more or less the same as with mechanical equipement... if you don't fine tune your digital communication devices, your internet fingerprints are like an open book, especialy with closed source software and unrooted devices.... and with in google you agreed with it, if you did not disagree by purpose....

[@ClownWhisper]

Imperial measuring scale is ridiculous

[@PhilsProjects]

Nice lesson on checking a chuck Stefan You should make and engrave a medallion to fit into that cavity on the chuck face. Cheers

[@marceltimmers1290]

Your right mate, I did not think about that one. But then again, he would have to make many more medallions.

[@johannriedlberger4390]

My Chinese Lathe came with 2 chucks (4 jaw standard + 3 jaw optional). They both look very simular to the type of your chuck. From new I dismanteled, deburred and greased them. I am very happy that they both run quite true. Always just a few hundreth of a milimeter. Once I had a new hydraulic operated chuck from a well known German company. Taking it off for the anual mainenace shocked me. The bolts that fix it to the spindle seemed to have "sunk" into the material. I checked the hardeness by comparing the imprint of an hardened ball by hitting it with a hammer. Even ST-37 had less imprint. The manufacturers representative came just one day after the phone call and changed it to a new one. To check a new chuck BEVORE mounting is not only a good idea when it comes from china. :D

[@CarltonGauss]

what is that machine at 33:30. How are you moving that endmill by hand?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thats a pantograf engraving machine - Basicaly a handguided cnc :) You follow a template with a stylus by hand.

[@cri8tor]

This is a great video. Not everyone wants to wait forever, hoping they can save enough to buy expensive equipment, so they get what they can. Besides, a person can learn much more by taking their tools apart, polishing parts, replacing some parts and resembling them. You also get a much better feel for how smoothly your machines should function and how to dial them in to your personal taste. I've done this with a lathe and a mill with great results. Cheers

[@jenn5774]

one thing i can say is, if you want to learn, buy cheap chinese stuff! by the time you learn how to use it, you will also be able to build another one from scratch considering how many times you will have taken it apart. If you get a nice haas the thing just works to well, you never get the joy of ripping apart compound slide and resurfacing all its bushings.

[@matthewmoilanen787]

The helical ring and large gear assembly are obviously made using the powdered metal manufacturing method. You can tell this by the non machined surface of the gears and helical groove. That is what the debris is inside the Chuck. This is done to save manufacturing costs of course. You do get what you pay for so it would be unreasonable to expect perfection from such an inexpensive product. Powdered metal is used for many more American made products than people know. In fact if you have a Polaris quad I assure you that you have powdered metal parts in your transmission. I know because I designed and created the machine drawings from them.

[@sharpeguns1]

so now that you are a capable Chinese remanufacturer, can I send you about 10 of theses to do. lol loved the Video

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Sure, if you dont mind getting a invoice with a four-figure-number ;)

[@wither8]

Haha that moly disulfide in raw materials probably cost more than the whole chuck

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Funny enough, I got about 1kg of the moly for free :)

[@chuckadams4400]

"Popped a molly, I'm sweating...."

[@cultusmechanicus8001]

just happens to lay around at work huh?

[@johndebrular979]

I believe the results of this is that say that these low priced chucks can be made to work for us that just cannot afford an expensive brand. Some us just have to make do with what we can afford. I have 5 chucks of this type and now I know how to make them better.

[@TomZelickman]

Nicely done, Stefan. It's good to point out that even high quality chucks need servicing like this from time to time as well. I think you got a good deal and then made it into something much more to your requirements. Do you plans to grind the inner jaws to ensure concentricity or do you have an adjustable back plate? Best wishes, Tom Z

[@MrSleepProductionsInc]

AVE??? Why you sound so different?

[@davidfe47]

Stefan, Do you accept appreciation gifts? If so, where to we send them?

[@tomclark6271]

Stefan, another great vid! Speaking of three jaw scroll type chucks... What are your thoughts regarding evenly tightening all three positions, rather than just one? This has been an on-going discussion between myself and the guys in the shop. I know there's a difference in the way a three jaw drill chuck works, and that everyone should be aware to tighten all three positions to firmly clamp the three jaws around a drill bit. But doesn't the same reasoning apply to scroll chucks? We would all be interested in your take. Keep up the good work! Tc

[@Ujeb08]

nice video to display the internal workings of the scroll chuck. It's very surprising how cheap the Chinese can sell machined parts for. Although they are never deburred or finished that well, they seem to function ok. Did you try to balance the chuck after removing the emblem and engraving the numbers? I dont think I'd spin that chuck anywhere 3500 RPM.

[@Hans_Strandberg]

For me a super interesting videoclip. As a woodworker mainly just recently got fascinated by metalworking the super tight tolerances are som impressive. I am trying to understand what can be carried over to the more or less ancient art of woodworking. Thank you for a very pedagogic clip!!

[@JohnBare747]

So what they are selling you is a DIY chuck kit!

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Not realy - It works out of the box, pretty good if you clean it. The grinding I did was just for my personal enjoyment ;)

[@romar1581]

Yes, we Germans enjoyment in precision.

[@crikycrocky]

Very informative vid thanks, I can see a strip down and clean of the 3 jaw on my Chinese mini lathe could be in order. One aspect I would have liked you to cover is run-out on the jaws. This is likely to be a major concern for lathe owners at this price point I would think.

[@ronwilken5219]

Hi Stefan, all the time you were grinding the jaw surfaces I kept saying you need to number the jaw slots and the jaws. When you engraved the numbers I also noted that there were numbers in the bottom of the slots. I'm assuming that these were from the factory. However, no where have I seen a number on the actual jaws themselves and that would be crucial to the accuracy of your remedial grinding of the jaw surfaces on an ongoing basis. I'm assuming you've marked them in some fashion as well. Joe Pie marks the outer extent of his scroll chucks so as to make sure, especially on the reverse or outward jaws, that they don't get taken out beyond a marked point so they don't have the danger of breaking the scroll material, the jaw flying out, and potentially killing someone. Applies more on a lathe chuck that's spinning of course but could be a useful reminder in a static work holding process such as you intend to do. Have you done a video of you mounting this chuck to your rotary table? Reason I ask is that I have a 4" RT and a 4", 4 jaw chuck to mount to it and I'm puzzling a bit as to how to tackle the mounting in a realistic way. I'm sure you had a brilliantly simple way of doing it. I have also made a backplate for mine so it can be used on my Myford ML 7 lathe and my chinese spindexer fitted with a home made 5 C to Myford nose thread adapter. On your Olympic mill, did you by chance install a one shot oiling system on the leadscrew nuts, ways, etc. I have a later version, new, of the similar mill but with auto down feed and a few refinements. I'm installing a one shot oiler and am looking for ideas on how to get oil under and to the "X" and "Y" leadscrew nuts, easily. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for the videos from Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦🕊️🇺🇦🕊️🇩🇪👍

[@terrylarotonda784]

Stefan, great video as usual. Love to see your precision, and steps you take to achieve. Thank you for sharing

[@TheMachiningman]

Should have engraved "made better in Germany"

[@recklessroges]

"Finished in Germany" or "Improved in Germany" would be better English, but I can see the "better" being written above and indicated with a chevron between the "made" and "in".

[@TheMachiningman]

agreed

[@waynerobinson2301]

Reckless Roges my father in law wears a shirt that reads " MADE IN AMERICA OF GERMAN PARTS" his parents were both germans my grandparents changed the spelling of their name to SMITH sometime about 1900 i think

[@ronpeck3226]

The WD40 with grinding dust, will make good lapping compound ;-))

[@CatNolara]

It's always the same with chinese products: most of the work is done, you just have to finish it yourself :D

[@alanhardman2447]

Klaufmann - Must be 80% finished as defined by BATFE and is therefore illegal to sell in a completed state. Probably because it would explode at any RPM above 3500...

[@alsatian9130]

@@alanhardman2447 lol

[@1kreature]

Noooooooo! No runout check of the jaws? I was looking forward to that the entire video! Can I demand a sequel?

[@roysmith3198]

he said he was putting it on a turn table.

[@johnclarke9054]

Me too! My chuck runout varies with the clamped diameter. Best at about 12mm, about 3TIR, then rapidly deteriorates above and below this diameter. Anyone know how to fix this please?

[@Muzkaw]

Looks more like powdered metal gears to me

[@intjonmiller]

Thank you for showing this. I don't know why I never thought to grind a chuck (or at least its jaws) that way, or to put a digital readout on my surface grinder. It seems quite obvious now... :)

[@martinmengh]

In China, nice brand name 100mm 6 jaw chuck retails for equivalent of 70 euro. Brand name quality 3 jaw chuck retails for equivalent of 35 euro. The one shown in video is of no name brand; never seen sold anywhere. Sellers face stiff competition domestically and are required to stand behind their product with stringently enfroced consumer / buyer protection laws, e.g. swift returns, mandatory warranties etc. Exports are cesspool of ripoffs.

[@martinmengh]

Proxxon sells lots of their MF70 in China; so are we to conclude that German milling machines are made of aluminum with plastic gibs? It maybe trendy to bash China; but stereotype is just that, misinformed stereotype.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

I think, although you didnt say it, these chucks are pretty impressive for $60. The best ones I have found are SANDO but for that sort of money lets be honest you wouldn't get the sticky label from USA or Germany. While they are not the best they are an option to get people into home workshop work that they simply couldn't do if they had to pay quality prices

[@DavidSmith-ef1ws]

So is there no remedy for that? If it’s such a known problem, why do all the lathes seem to ship with the 3 jaw chuck? Is it simply a cost savings in manufacturing? Newbie here, just trying to decide what to buy right out of the gate. Willing to pay more for the best machine available. My concern is the weight of machine, need to keep it movable.

[@simonhopkins3867]

Now i feel guilty for not cleaning my expensive woodturning chucks.😢 😂 Great video buddy.

[@MarcusWolschon]

Sad that you can't get different jaws or base-jaws for these 100mm 3-jaw ones.

[@BM-jy6cb]

You know what? For $60, I'll take it and clean it myself. No, it's not something a high tech CNC machine shop is going to use, but it'll do just fine in my garage.

[@aubreyaub]

Love your depth gauge ste up. I have been trying to have the setup that Whom, uses on his lathe, when he does longitudinal cuts. My lathe has fairly small V guide, insufficient to clip a magnetic dial gauge too. I think I can sort of permanent fix the gauge, and then use an adjustable for, as you have done. 70 years old, and still learning. Thanks mate.

[@banger355tw]

I just heard some bs about chuck keys from an otherwise decent machinist. Yes the damn keys can kill you. If only for the back guard on my lathe a key would have hit me directly going fast enough to hurt or kill me. I'm sorry but your words were wrong. Bad shop practice.

[@alsatian9130]

Stefan: much thanks, respect, gratitude to you and your hard, keen work. People like you are exactly what keeps life flowing even in the cold/dark times. thanks again for great stuff like this!

[@ianalex2]

Very educational video, thanks. Did you check the runout? It would be interesting to see how far out it was for use on a lathe.

[@niklar55]

I think that if I had the cash to buy the equipment that was used to true the jaws, then, buying a more expensive chuck wouldn't be a problem. If I didnt, then I would have to do the work by hand, which would require skills I may not have.

[@demlotcrew]

Stefan, can you post a link to this chuck?

[@thefarmlifeinhd]

Why immediately assume it is crap. You think you are fixing it but man you think they're not going to qc test their exports? Its all automated so no overhead expenses.

[@mans4104]

To the Chinese: Cheap, cheapo means low quality not low price. It is expensive for the low quality.

[@ClaytonwFirth]

Nice work. Good to know that CE quality can be made quite serviceable.

[@imetr8r]

Stefan - Did you make a video on direct mounting of a chuck to a rotary table? I seem to recall seeing it once but have been unable to find it a second time. Is there a link you could provide here?

[@GraphicManInnovations]

Loved that video Thank you

[@davidorf3921]

I think what this shows is that what you got was a cheap chuck ,that was only in need of a small amount of work to become a really good chuck. The trouble today is that people want top quality for knockdown prices :-(

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Yep! And that chuck made me faaaaaaaaaaaaar more money than I paid for it.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Nice cleanup and improvement. I would be stuck the sizes after getting the dirt out. Keep on keeping on.

[@steinarne79]

All the small things....Also called details...It is really what makes the difference

[@dfailsthemost]

How would one debut the parts in an industrial setting? Just manually, or is that something that can be done with tumbling?

[@ROBRENZ]

Very nice work Stefan as usual!

[@kundeleczek1]

Is using grease inside this chucka good idea? I mean grease is gathering all dirt.

[@ROBRENZ]

@@kundeleczek1 Yes in moderation

[@TungstenCarbideTempe]

Great video. I wonder if its forged or sintered...

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I am pretty sure its forged, looks different than the sintered parts I have seen so far.

[@slucas601]

how do you grind the inner clamping surface of the regular use jaws?

[@RambozoClown]

The easy way is with a tool post grinder in a lathe.

[@RandomNumber141]

You also have to preload the jaws in the correct direction. I think there’s a Haas Tools Tip of the Day video about turning soft jaws on the lathe that is a similar process

[@bobengelhardt856]

Did you check that a part held by the innermost jaw teeth is perpendicular to the back of the chuck? (Would that be called axial run out?) I would think that it is as important as the parallelism that you did check.

[@RandomNumber141]

Bob Engelhardt Agreed I would think that’s one of the most important things to check?

[@ravener96]

idk, the pinions could be cast, the set screw grove looked rough, and doesent have relief for forging