Chip budding

Budding is a method of grafting in which the graft consists of a single bud, as opposed to the complete section of stem used in whip and tongue or rind grafting. It can be used on young apple and pear trees, and for plum, cherry, apricots and peaches. It is quicker and easier than whip and tongue grafting and rind grafting, and hot wax is not required. Budding can be performed from about mid-July until towards the end of August. In this video, William Seabrook demonstrates the chip budding method, in which the bud that is inserted is completely covered with transparent tape. Cut the bud to be used, and don’t touch the cut surface. Make the cut on the host tree, ensuring that there is a “window” of exposed wood, which is where the callous will form. The transparency of the tape enables you to see the callous forming, a process that takes about 10 days. Wind the tape around the bud, covering it completely, and tie off. The bud will stay dormant until next spring, when, in about mid-March, the top of the host tree is removed by making a sloping cut just above the bud - sloping so that rainwater runs off on the opposite side with respect to the bud. You could seal the cut with grafting wax to ensure a better chance of success. Narration by William Seabrook presented by Dan Neuteboom, camera by John Paddy. Read more at realenglishfruit.co.uk

[@trevorcole460]

William made this look incredibly easy too do, I would say without a doubt the best bud grafting video on KZbin.

[@robertfovargue636]

Great to see you both in action

[@Ithinkso-2]

Thank you so much. I learned a lot from this video.

[@ben-fe3zy]

Great advice, thanks!

[@JaiKisanHP]

You are great sir

[@RajeshKumar-ji7ef]

Thanks for valueable information🙏

[@kalwongkl]

Is there any requirement for the bud scion from a tree of a particular age? I've heard that scion wood from a fruit tree that flowered and fruited for a few years is preferred.

[@khizercabby]

Great advice thank you sir

[@rosetvm]

Just to say, Respect.

[@linuxjcajca7806]

Thanks to you for the video.

[@adriansimionescu6868]

This is a masterpiece 🍷

[@eatmaipoop]

great explanation

[@daleepkashyap89]

Nice work

[@joshikaaarav2217]

Thank you sir

[@adamb.8854]

If the chip-cut and the rootstock cut is soo deep, is it not a problem not only for apple but for peach apricot plum or citrus trees? Thx

[@omaralmbrok1148]

Thanks

[@ChhatruFarming]

Nice

[@thehiddenhimalaya7990]

Great 😊

[@danfarnsworth5368]

Very nicely done...could you name the brand and type of transparent tape that you used?

[@johanconradie2120]

just above the bud cut through stock trunk half way and bend tree over to induce proper quicker take

[@narenderbhagolta4031]

Very good sir I am from india

[@adamb.8854]

Hi, i think the cut both on scion bud and rootstock are very deep, and if i do so usually all of my grafts fail. Shallower cuts, or a complete removing of the wood from the chip works better for me. This thick cuts work for other type of fruit trees for you? Thanks

[@deondraevans9997]

Who is watching in 2024

[@muneebparray1270]

But you have covered all the bud,is it permissible ..from kashmir

[@vikrantthakur3256]

Very nice sir i am from india apple orchard

[@dibanshuxbinaygamers2916]

Very nice sir I am from nepal

[@savedfaves]

5:26 Is that an aphid climbing up the top of the tape?

[@0626love]

It was too quick for an aphid

[@garettanderson6772]

2000 a day man that's a lot.

[@carolsloanes4938]

Does anyone know the make or brand of the grafting knife used here.? Tks.

[@robertfovargue636]

Victorinox possibly?

[@garettanderson6772]

It is a Tina. They are made in Germany. They are carbon steel not stainless like the Victorinox knives have. I have a couple Tina grafting knives but not a budding style like this one yet. I'm still wanting one of those. You can see it says Tina at the base of the blade if you freeze it at 3:02