Choosing a Fuse and a Controller for My Boat’s Solar Panel?

[@jeff_newriver6350]

You have a real gift. I am a beginner boater and learn so much from you. Up north… so this on line knowledge amazing. What a difference you make for so many!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Jeff

[@ianmac86]

Thanks Jeff. Clear, concise and very useful info as always. I’m pretty sure I have followed you on this one for my boat. Have a happy and safe Christmas.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Awesome, thank you!

[@tryhardfpv5351]

For multiple panels would you recommend a separate controller for each one sized for that panels maximum voltage/amperage or a single controller big enough to handle all the panels in serial/parallel?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Really depends, for most of the installs, we recommend installing dedicated controller per solar panel especially when panels have a similar shading.

[@fanaticforager6610]

Hey 👋 Teach, is there a solar management board/unit that automatically instills a charge ceiling for lithium batteries 🔋 🔍🤔 You’ve possibly covered this evolving scenario, so which key 🗝 words, to locate that/those vlogs, 🥂

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Besides choosing a charging profile for Lithium, not aware of a specific charge ceiling for Lithium. Are you thinking of stopping charging your lithium bank at 80% for example?

[@rmcnabb]

Thanks Jeff - doing this exact job now with 2 x 100w panels. So, the correct fuse size for (in my case) a 20 amp charge controller would be a 20 amp fuse? Is it that simple? (I'm 12 volt.)

[@PacificYachtSystems]

When choosing a fuse, make sure your wiring can handle 20 amps. 20 amps seems reasonable for your setup.

[@Bhombar]

Hi Jeff, great share of information as usual. Thank you for caring :) You said; even if the panels are connected in series array is still 340W although the actual wattage is 170. Can you elaborate please?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good on you to be curious. Solar controllers, like other charging sources, like an alternator, or even a battery charger need to be connected always to the battery. Here's why: if your charging source, e.g. solar controller, is connected to the load side (i.e. switched distribution), whenever the battery switch is turned off, the solar controller will loose it's connection to the battery. Here's where it gets bad, now your solar controller has no more connection to battery and your solar controller will power your loads without a battery. If loads are suddenly removed or added, the voltage output from the controller will vary wildly. Remember a charge source is not a meant to be a power supply.

[@simongee5879]

Hi Jeff, If you are thinking of choosing a Victron controller, ( and why wouldn't you?), they have on their website a great questionnaire that takes into consideration the voltage and wattage of your installation and then recommends the appropriate controller

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Simon, good advice for all of us choosing a controller.