Clean a Head Gasket Surface like a Master Engine Builder.

[@brentowen9480]

I've had the exact same experience as you. Went to school learned that scrapers, elbow grease etc the correct way. Got out in the field, even asked others, "what's the best gasket prep?" to which I usually would hear, "the fastest. scotch brite discs". Anyway, perpendicular razor has the lowest damage potential, angled on aluminum will cut chunks. Wet sanding with fine grit and WD seems to get things clean fairly quickly. Also, with the straightedge, put it on the surface and shine a flashlight behind it, look at the straightedge from opposite side and... light can't pass if there isn't a gap.

[@roballan4944]

Yup same here 20yr red seal. Use razor scraper and scotch paper not rolocs. Use a lath fine file and if you need it to be perfect try using Prussian blue where ever it remains is a low spot. Draw file to verify.

[@THMSKA]

I'm at the stage in a refresh for the heads to go back on the motor. This video was really informative and from the research I did, this seems like the better way to go. Good stuff!

[@andygilbert1877]

Always done it using various scrapers and sanding. Everyone did back when I started and it’s served me well. My engines don’t come back.

[@johndowe7003]

Yep, diesel fuel works as a cleaner as well. Toilet brush and a bucket of diesel for first cleaning then finish off with some brake cleen. Good tip for anyone that's not getting a free supply of brake cleaner lol

[@andygilbert1877]

@@johndowe7003 Diesel was all we had when I started, the firm was too tight to buy brake cleaner! Though it was trichloroethane at the time which apparently causes cancer, so maybe just as well.

[@johndowe7003]

@@andygilbert1877 yup we still use diesel to clean parrafin and oil off our rigs. The new style of diesel has a lot of surfactants so it's pretty much the same as soap. It's a game changer for small businesses and independent guys since it's a lost more cost effective.

[@andygilbert1877]

@@johndowe7003 Yep, plus you’ve generally got loads of it! (I worked on heavy equipment & fork trucks) We’d use it as a freeing agent too...leaving seized stuff in it over a weekend rarely fails.

[@johndowe7003]

@@andygilbert1877 yep, dont forget to include shoving grease into holes with threads in them to protect the threads from the elements. i would always do that to equipment that i would put away for later . plus diesel is the best soap for hand washin, just dont forget to rinse off with dawn hah

[@jaredfenzlein4079]

I’m a marine diesel tech, work on mtu man and cat. We clean decks the same way but if you use some wd 40 with some scotch bright pads after the sand paper it will shine the deck up good and pull a lot debri you can’t see by eye out

[@aerialrescuesolutions3277]

Great video. The funny hat guy was totally hilarious, you gotta put him in more videos. Off the chart on that.

[@JasonTAho]

Diamond knife sharpening block works really good too for block prep.

[@claterpillar1]

Pro tip. Cover rod bearing journals. Before any scraping, or sanding. Don't want debris in oil ports.

[@gersonruiz1714]

If you do get debris in there or in the cylinder, can you just get an oil change to get that out of the system?

[@claterpillar1]

@@gersonruiz1714 on first start up. The debris would hit the new bearings, because that's after oil filter.

[@gersonruiz1714]

@@claterpillar1 how would I get the debris out from on top of the piston head? Mine kinda looks like there’s debris on the edges

[@EpicSourTime]

You can try using a vacuum to get it out

[@bertfromnz9069]

Good video! - as an aircraft engineer we were trained to lap any flat surface- on a head or block the area between cylinder can be low causing a leak if not spotted

[@martinsekinger2005]

Thanks for saying it for me!

[@billmoran3219]

I always tell the younger techs and managers... why is there always time to do it over but never enough time to do it right!

[@coolpop19]

Your so correct!! I'm so done with half-ass ZIP tie and duct tape fixes

[@tomast9034]

@Gilbert Ike good for you..now you know she is not interested in you.

[@electric7487]

@@tomast9034 Gøttem

[@tyrel7185]

@@coolpop19 yeah, F-the zip ties n duct tape. Way better to use band-aids n bubble gum. (Sarcasm for anybody that can’t detect it).

[@tyrel7185]

@Gilbert Ike I hacked her account too. She sure gets freaky on Friday nights when you are out with your buddies.

[@davewattles7237]

Congratulations young man. You recognize what is really important when so many others do not...

[@TheFoMoCo1903]

I started doing this a couple years ago. I too used the roloc but I ran into problems on a 3400 block and that was the turning point for me. It blows my mind how many technicians don't check the block and heads with a straight edge.

[@AdeptApe]

Yeah, I don't think I've ever caught one doing it in the couple shops I've worked on. Even when something leaks and comes back it was usually silicone that they used to fix it 🤯

[@creativecreative9582]

@@AdeptApe If you are just installing a new head (not liners or anything else)do you still have to straight edge with the liners being in the way?

[@Cutecumber12564]

I'm rebuilding my ford 3000 rn, I was wondering if I should you razer blade or die grinder, I've always used razer blade

[@larrytalley117]

Great information, and spot on when flatness is the critical item. I hope we get to see more of Goofy Cat Guy in the future.

[@Darth-Nihilus1]

Straight edge with the feeler gages was the way I was thought and it takes time but you want to do it right the first then pay for it later

[@stevegerow872]

Great video! I used it to clean and check the block on my Triumph TR6. Was able to scrape off all the residue using about 15 single-edge razor blades, so didn't require the carbide scraper even though I ordered one. I bought a 100-pack of blades. They were sharper on one side than the other and the first few strokes with a new blade were really effective. Also used paint remover to soften up the gasket residue. Don't recommend that unless the block is out of the car as it's messy. Plain old paint scraper didn't do anything. Razor blades, sanding block & medium emery paper and accurate straightedge all that was necessary for me.

[@AdeptApe]

Glad you got a good result out of it and you got it going. Thanks for the comment.

[@nickelmickel4170]

Once scraped clean i use a 5 inch wide half inch thick piece of glass with wet paper going down in grit as I go.👍

[@bengreene9072]

I use the rol-lock for small flanges but nothing more. I replaced the head gaskets on my ford 4.6l and put clean oil soaked paper towels down in the piston bores and used a razor scraper and scotch brite by hand to clean the head gasket surface

[@walkertongdee]

Doing this after 40 years come to see if things have changed, they haven't this is old school and ill be doing it this way again, nice presentation thanks for the refresher. But I will be packing those holes to keep the debris out...

[@monstermudratroddragworth3738]

Amen to flat sanding, you could look up scraping for machines, thanks for teaching

[@redmesa2975]

8:00 The wooden handle " super scraper " . Carbide edge, awesome scraper. I keep in mind, any crud that goes down the cylinder, could end up in a rod journal oil passage. Cover the journal, or brake clean it out too.

[@johndowe7003]

It's a bare block, no bearings or anything

[@robertkemp1587]

I agree with you. I used to clean same way as you and as I've gotten older changed to cleaning similar to this. I wouldn't suggest using air file. Leave the body work tools for the body men. Enjoy your videos as always

[@traviscallaway9675]

Josh, no need to go past the 100 grit for a head gasket. The surface needs a certain roughness. The gasket needs that roughness to keep from slipping. Most all machined surfaces have a recommended rma. Simply put rma is a measurement of the surface roughness. You may well know this, but others may not. I appreciate you making this, and all your videos. Really helps everyone trying to learn about their engines.

[@bradleyhovan9390]

I’ve seen 200-220 grit even for composite… im surprised 100 would be OK

[@fredg8199]

Bought the carbide scraper to clean the deck on my 6oh. Worked incredibly well.

[@nathanhinz2064]

You would also expect the smooth polished surface the roloc wheel leave to be less effective in other words it would be expected to hold less side pressure prior to failing given a sanded surface leaves very small sharp ridges that would bite into the softer gasket material better preventing any slipping where there’s a narrow strip of bearing such as between cylinders

[@xEchoEaglex]

Agreed. I'm glad I read down far enough before I basically repeated your comment. Examine the surface of a separator plate as shipped, or a cylinder head in a yellow box. Pretty sure there is some bite designed into the surfaces there.

[@SlimeInnaTaco]

This is like the best video I’ve found. !!!!!!

[@VliegerNL]

REALLY well done. Quality work, a job well done is so much more satisfying that just quick and easy and … not right! :-)

[@kevbruggeman33]

I ran a cylinder head resurfacing machine for three years the roloc wheel will knock cast iron out about two and a half thousands of an inch I'm in aluminum head it can be up to 10,000 roloc is the worst razor blades Scotch-Brite and brake cleaner you got it right

[@James0u812]

Amen. If you can feel it clean it. Doesn’t matter what it looks like

[@longliner205a4]

I have a precision a aluminum sanding block that I milled perfectly flat and true and I cover it with sand paper and I sand all my gasket surfaces using numerous grits of sandpaper. I also have a very nice set of precision parallels that I setup using a dial indicator to verify the surface.

[@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548]

I knew a guy who would "machine" has own aluminium cylinder heads. He got a huge thick block of glass and glued sand paper to it. Then he rubbed the cylinder head on it until it was flat. It worked.

[@AdeptApe]

A poor man's machinist.

[@tyrel7185]

Use the sticky back sandpaper and work the head in a figure 8 motion. This is needed on most small engine jobs.

[@josefkrakel9136]

Those zip wheels spray abrasive all over. I think that is a bad idea.

[@brettspaulding5855]

I've been using roloc disks for years. Yes they spray stuff everywhere. But, clean up after yourself.

[@jdatwood7086]

Half assed way to do it though. If time is a concern use the 12” pneumatic sanding board, done in minutes and it’s done perfect.

[@reallyhappenings5597]

gotta clean up with a vacuum, always

[@Backyardmech1]

When doing DIY paint and body work I was taught to run your hands over EVERY surface you sand as you go. To me at me least flat sanding and some touch/feel seems legit for a decent head/block mating surfaces making good sealing contact with a gasket. Shite and briney looks nice, but a proper seal and job brings longevity to the motor.

[@theamaturepro]

An old body guy taught me to use a thin cotton cloth like a t shirt between your hand and the surface. It somehow makes it easier to feel imperfections my bare hand missed.

[@deadstroke82]

Carbide scraper and wipedown with cleaner. Chase threads, clean holes. Remove liners, clean out liner bores and crank. Wipe down again with brake cleaner, check flatness and measure bores. Install everything.

[@JT-qf4it]

I start out with a scraper then move to flat sanding. I have a 20lb square piece of granite that had been ground flat and smooth. The weight of the granite is enough to do the job, so I just have to go back and fourth in different directions with different grits of wet-dry paper.

[@abpsd73]

An old friend of mine that has built lots of gas engines over the years always block/board sanded the head and block mating surfaces. It's the "old school" method and it works. Just like auto body, blocking will get you a more consistent surface than a goon shoving a D/A.

[@johndowe7003]

Yup seen guys use ceramic tiles and glass tables to surface heads as well. And borax to in the intake to hone/ loosen stuck oil rings cylinders. Cat used to make a powder that gets sucked up through to intake but I don't remember the name of it

[@wizard1800]

I work in a power plant. We do a lot of work where thats close doesnt work. Everything has a given clearance. Make it right the first time.

[@yurbeeinwatched]

I work on mostly light duty stuff. I start with brake clean and a carbide scraper. Then I use a knife sharpening stone that I keep soaked in transmission fluid. After it is thoroughly cleaned, I wipe it with lacquer thinner. Never had one come back.

[@AdeptApe]

Why do you choose lacquer thinner instead of a brake cleaner, cheaper or doesn't evaporate as quickly?

[@yurbeeinwatched]

@@AdeptApe It does. I did a stint at a dedicated engine shop for a couple of years. Long story. Mostly Cummins 5.9. Boss sucked, worked outside regardless, even took care of his pain in the ass dog when he was out of town. Dude can build an engine though. That laquer thinner takes it away man. Get a quart and try it.

[@akharder658]

I remember taking a factory Cummins ISX class and at that time Cummins made it very clear that rolocs and scotch brite were unacceptable for cleaning any mating surface. Especially heads and blocks. They were finding that the abrasive material and debris was ending up in the engine and in some cases plugging oil passages. Local dealer trainer said their techs would get written up if caught doing this.

[@ryanhogan6509]

I like the sharpening stones..

[@terminsane]

i watched a guy making his cam shaft shiny with a grinder. Im pretty sure theres some serious tolerances being destroyed there.

[@bigred1247]

Hahaha😁

[@tyrel7185]

Don’t buy that car. That’s probably the same guy that put a gallon of methyl hydrate in every tank of gas to make his windshield wipers last longer. Lesson of the day: don’t do drugs while installing a cam shaft.

[@emmettboaz]

A pair of flat machinist stones or knife honing stones are also a great tool to have in the toolbox. The carbide scrapers have also been a game changer for me.

[@bigdeal87]

So a knife stone work as well?

[@saulgilsenan8122]

Third time watching this all the way through. Some real gold here for a new tech.

[@Wjones450]

Great video as always! your a great teacher man. Much respect for what you do! I have some constructive criticism on that long aluminum straight edge...incase your not aware (im sure you are ) , when you make your measurements with the feeler gauge just be careful not to push down on the top of the straight edge. steady the straight edge from the side with your thumb and index finger like your pinching it. believe it or not , but just that little bit of pressure may deflect it just enough to make you think the readings are correct, when in fact they are not or at the very least throw it out a thou or two. just something to consider.

[@tyrel7185]

If a finger pushing down 2 lbs on the straight edge gives you good results with the feeler gauge then properly torqued head bolts with a new gasket will give good results.

[@jdatwood7086]

I like the 12” Ingersol pneumatic sanding board with 80 grit. Use those wiz wheels on a 6.0 power stoke motor and the gasket won’t last 5 miles.. Makes low spots in the deck, especially between cylinders.

[@tyrel7185]

80 is way too coarse. Even 180 is rough for this application.

[@scottnelson9550]

Really like your videos I learn a lot from you thanks

[@AdeptApe]

Thanks for watching, you guys are the reason I make the them.

[@17th_Street_Preacher]

Do gasket impression marks/cavitation pose a leak risk?

[@Midnight_Rider96]

I worked 2 years in an engine machine shop. We used wire cup wheels, but always careful not to eat into the metal. And most blocks or heads were getting resurfaced anyway, though quite a few weren't and it wasn't an issue. I do like your method though, using a wire wheel makes a big mess and I wouldn't do it to an engine that isn't fully disassembled and getting jet washed. Lots of places I wouldn't want pieces of wire going on an in frame rebuild.

[@thelol1759]

So hard to teach people about how much more important it is for a surface to be flat than it is shiny!

[@behroozkhaleghirad]

Me: reads the title Also me: MACHINE IT

[@rjward1775]

I'm just replacing the head gasket, so the pistons are still in. How do I keep debris out of there?

[@danokerr9929]

Id always flat sand blocks and heads on old flat 6 dodge motors. Use a straight edge and feeler gauges to find high and low spots

[@barneysievers2888]

If the block isn't going to be thoroughly cleaned in its entirety, I would never use anything abrasive that can contaminate the internal part of the engine block. If u choose to do it anyway, I would painstakingly tape off the cylinders and other internal openings followed by a vacuum after completing the preparation. In looking at the video, u can see the sharp edge on many of the bolt and coolant holes. These should be hit with a tapered counter-bore to break that edge. Also, after scraping and Brakeclean of the surface, the entire deck should be sprayed or brushed with blue machinist layout dye (Magic Marker if u must). This will indicate the low spots in the deck very quickly during the sanding process so that particular attention can be focused on them using the straightedge with a light shining from behind; the suspect area then measured with a feeler gauge for acceptable compliance to specification.

[@JordanLePage-e6b]

How does this change with protruding liners? This is why I always end up scraping and then using Grey scotch pad lightly while chasing with rolls of blue rag and brake clean so I don't "loose" any of the abrasive dust.

[@Perumet]

Hey how do you feel about bits of debris falling into the coolant and oil holes in the block? Is there potential for damage there or do you consider it negligible?

[@keeganfoster1792]

Geoffrey Robertson any small bit should not matter as if u do this you should flush your coolant with water until it is clear! And you should do a oil change shortly after doing this too!

[@MrSamsamsammy]

Take cheap disposable earplugs and plug any holes you can with those. Saves a lot of work later

[@johnboforsyth5970]

That pull hammer you used was pretty cool. Uses Collets?

[@chrisdover74]

We have only used scrapers, razors and oil stones. To keep it flat and true.

[@td-6173]

Thanks for the videos!

[@chrisleggett685]

The machined area be it a block,head etc should not be shiney and smooth. When it is flycut there will be very small grooves left. There is a spec for every manufacturrer. Basically x amount of grooves per inch.

[@wjb111]

GM produced the quad 4 engine that had head gasket issues. They tried many different gasket types and eventually opted for a rougher surface finish so the gasket would bite onto the surface better.

[@jaredmayer3960]

RMS finish...

[@12yearssober]

That’s how the machine shop I use does it. They also do my flywheels like that as well.

[@isaacoranday3822]

You should make a video of how does the brake system works

[@bobbyg5497]

Looks good - I would add putting some masking tape over the oil gallery holes in the crank.

[@soup2nuts1957]

That machined RM is there for a reason.i never use steel tools.

[@em52761]

I'm going to Scott community college. my diesel teacher showed us to use a straight edge like you did. I was told to scrape and brillo pad and then wire wheel it then blowout all the holes. What's your opinion?

[@brentowen9480]

Skip the wire wheel. The best point I think made in this video is that the flatness is key, not the appearance.

[@salad8990]

Can I just use the carbide scraper? On a budget here and might not even be worth the extra effort since the block might be cracked.

[@jackdawg4579]

I use quality honing stones rather than sandpaper, but yeah, that's the way to do the job properly.

[@joeshreeman8640]

Can you do a remove/install video of c15 acert turbos? Thanks in advance. Also where can I get one of those dowel pin removers? Can the dowels be reinstalled after being pulled? With the removal tool install them also? Thanks!!!

[@mikecont9742]

Very informative video.

[@davidwalle5025]

Good video. How much time does it to redo the job if the head will not seal.

[@EDesigns_FL]

Rather than using sand paper, I suggest that you go over machined surfaces with large sharpening stones. They can be kept exceptionally flat using flat stones and they will only remove material that extends above the machined surface. This is how us machinist keep our milling tables clean and free of burrs.

[@AdeptApe]

I've heard that more than a few times on this video now. I'd never heard of that before though. I have heard of using a large flat file as well. Wondering if perhaps that is also acceptable.

[@EDesigns_FL]

@@AdeptApe Files aren't really that flat. So I would not recommend them for this application. As alternative to stones, I would suggest using adhesive backed sandpaper on a very flat and ridge surface, e.g. machined steel, iron, or, even better, granite. Rubber or anything pliable is not suitable.

[@charlie2king]

Wirewheel works good for cleaning

[@davidoneal6969]

I've used a DA sander with 6" 180 grit discs for years. Works very well to sand down Belzona too.

[@darrenrich3492]

You were a bit aggressive with the Rolocks- needs to sod a-bigger rolock and use it flat- I do it like you do it now on blocks or heads! I still use the polo is on intake and exhaust surfaces.

[@chedda2871]

What on earth is that attachment on the slide hammer that clamps the dowels as you pull it and where can I buy one? Is it CAT tooling? Encounter lots of these dowels in components.

[@grumpystruckshop3807]

Use a DA sander with fine body work disc nice and flat , not too abrasive!!!!

[@aussiebloke609]

Thankfully, I'm old enough to have been taught to scrape from the beginning. It might not look as pretty, but no one's going to see it once the gasket is in place. The only thing I'd add is to be very careful with the razor-style scrapers when working on aluminium, as it's pretty easy to put a gouge in the metal - and that can ruin all the good work you've done up 'til that point.

[@AdeptApe]

Yeah, that dang Aluminum is hard to clean. Especially with a stuck on gasket. If it is a strong cast Aluminum piece I'll usually lightly tap the gaskets off with a small ball pien hammer, then carefully scrape any leftover pieces. On a thin cast piece like a front structure, it is really tricky as there isn't much material on the sealing surfaces so I usually end up scraping carefully and then maybe a little 600 grit wet sanding, depends though, there isn't a great way I've found yet for thin Aluminum. They need to invent a little ultrasonic wand you could point at the gasket and it would fall off.

[@QwertyQwerty-jq3cu]

Your video is more correct the 90% online. I see so many people using the Rol-Loc disk and wire brushes on aluminum heads and cast iron blocks. If you thought you had a problem before, you for sure do now. You can't be shade tree on today's cars. The problem is, 80% of most mechanics still are. Get the job done ASAP and who cares about the customer. That's why I do all my own work. At least I know it's done right. And I hate doing a job twice. I've been using your process for over 20 years and have never had to do one over unless it was because of another failure of the cooling system I usually get aluminum heads close to mirror smooth.

[@jamieg.3829]

Gotta question. So I have a 2007 T800 with a C13. Now that it's cold out she likes to hesitate. It hesitates all gears until it reaches 150 degrees engine temp. When it hesitates or jerks/bucks, it blows out smokes out of stacks. Once it reaches 150 degrees on engine temp it goes away. Like nothing ever happened. Where should I look first. It has 419k miles. Never had a problem until it started getting cold out. Thanks.

[@stevemazzarella7212]

I agree with u but I don’t know if I could let it go not being shinny... I’ve been doing it that way to long!! I know that’s crazy!!

[@AdeptApe]

Resist the urge man! I know the feeling though.

[@tyrel7185]

Just think of the gasket bro. The 2 surfaces need to work together as a system to perform a task. Lookin’ pretty ain’t the top priority, function is what you are doing the job for.

[@sparklingsams3155]

Thanks mate

[@CJBanks-nc5re]

I guess it takes almost the same amount of time to prepare the head the same way unless you are replacing it

[@Gothisown]

What should never be used to clean a gasket surface? Never use a razor blade or anything that could scratch the surface. Any scratches may provide a channel or means for fluids or gasses to leak through. Use a brush or scrapper made of plastic or nylon, although it is probably best to use a chemical cleaner.

[@flight6.690]

The “bro” 🤣

[@mechanikbullert699]

what about cleaning with scotch brite 3m 07447

[@bulkchart3239]

what do u recommend when it is solely a head gasket replacement and not an entire engine rebuild? i'd think the entire engine would need to be disassembled and cleaned to remove all that sanding grit.

[@AdeptApe]

Well doing just a head is a pain because the liners are in the way. Generally I scrape, scrape, scrape, maybe a little wire wheel action between the liners, then making sure the cylinders are clean. I usually vacuum them out, then spray with brake clean and wipe down, then coat with oil and wipe again, then coat with oil.

[@Alanthe918mobilemechanic]

What if ur not removing cylinder sleeves

[@noelhohberger1188]

Interesting stuff

[@RHDPerformance]

It would be a good idea to put towels in the cylinders so you don't get sanding grit on your crankshaft journals and in you oil pan. Eventually that sand could make its way through the engine otherwise great info been watching your videos for a few years

[@AdeptApe]

Yes that is good if the cylinders are still installed, this was basically a bare block with the cylinder packs and bearings removed. Good comment.

[@somborn]

Not a mechanic, but I would never try to butcher a gasket surface with a grinding tool. On the other hand, if my boss told me so I would not question it.

[@andygilbert1877]

I would question it! (and have) Most bosses I’ve worked for I wouldn’t trust my own engine to. If I’m putting my name to something I’m doing it my way!

[@12yearssober]

@@andygilbert1877 Bosses in my experience have just enough knowledge to get themselves and others in trouble.

[@dazaspc]

Any sandpaper on a soft backed holder will radius edges. Your sanding board is bad it should be a flat steel backing or what I use is a couple of precision ground stones to finish a used surface.

[@AdeptApe]

You make a keen observation. I wouldn't say the sanding block is "bad" though, It is perhaps not the best design for this application. The only soft backed one is is the little one with the rounded single handle, all the other ones are firm backed.

[@bonidaexpress]

i need that cat hat to wear around my 60 series friends they will be so scared🤣🤣

[@crazedisme9666]

So like is hand sanding with p180 bad…. Asking for a friend

[@slowpoke96Z28]

Sounds like a GM or a Cat TSB. Cat should be sponsoring...

[@jaredmayer3960]

I’ve never touched a gasket surface with a power tool. I’m a machinist/millwright and the finish matters. The roloc polishes the shit out of it, dips and rounds everything. No chance for a really good gasket job on anything with the roloc. I never use sandpaper on a foam block either. Scrape it. Best way.

[@AdeptApe]

Do you recommend just scraping only and then just brake clean? I'm not a machinist just a mechanic trying to do the best I can.

[@johngoldsmith6629]

I showed my boss on a block I had to counterbore back in the 90's. Took that roloc disc and took .005 off the edge where the liner seats. That milling surface on the top of the block, is not just for looks. Also the water ferrule holes on top of the block can pit and erode. Using a roloc or wire wheel, you remove the build up. I try and smooth it flat with the top deck to help the seal do it's job.

[@AdeptApe]

It is a good indicator of the liners sinking though, no milling and you can bet your bottom dollar the liner was wearing there.

[@jaredmayer3960]

@@AdeptApe it’s the surface finish. There’s nothing wrong with what you’re doing. It will work and you’ve proven it. The RMS finish value matters and when you sand the surface you are removing the roughness machined there on purpose. On a blueprint there is actual surface finish specs marked right on them. The ITP industrial handbooks are the best when it comes to trade knowledge. A Machinist is a really skilled mechanic. Everything comes back to fastener stretch, surface finish and trueness. There’s actually a scientific field about his and you can watch videos on the science of flatness. So when you machine something you actually are making purposeful roughness to ensure gaskets stay fast in location and creep into the “low”spots in the cut and grip on the “high” spots. The gasket literally creeps into the low spots from the machining and it grips the surface in those spots. After you scrape it soak it with WD-40. Softens all the old carbon, graphite and it will literally wipe off to as close to original finish as you can get. When you sand surfaces down I agree it will still be relatively flat but because it’s super smooth the gasket has less “grip”. Too smooth is bad because the gasket will slip around, too rough is bad because it won’t creep deep enough to seal and it will sweat. I always clean the bolt holes threads up first and then use lacquer thinner to finish clean the threads and surface to prep it for the new gasket. It’s cheap and is a powerful solvent. Lint free cloths? Yep, linty cloth? It’s ok just attempt to blow all the lint particles off before you put the gasket on. You are a skilled dude. Just the fact you quit using rolocs and the reason you did totally impressed me. I work by the hour so I have time to do things that some would consider a waste of time (lapping nut contact faces and washers, moly lube on high pressure sliding contact faces, bolt stretch measurement versus torque in some applications) but the quality of my work rides on it. One of my uncles was the first real mechanic I worked with and he was all about the fine details. That’s where I learned the art of really precise work. I usually work on turbine housings, giant compressors, crushers, compactors, and multistage pumps, but the useful torching of hydrocarbons is still my passion.

[@jaredmayer3960]

@@AdeptApe oh an I should mention that this channel is extremely informative and really detailed. Totally practical.

[@owenroch446]

I do the same as shown, and the leftover is just a stan

[@paulg444]

why doesnt he stuff rags into the cylinders, isnt he afraid of dropping grit and dirt into the cylinders ?

[@AdeptApe]

The Cylinders are removed in this engine as well as the camshaft and Cam bearings.

[@justinhanson4721]

Do you do the cam bearings on a job like this?

[@johndowe7003]

Can bearings are out he said that in the video

[@Scott-sb1xi]

DUUUDDEEE!

[@Joe-bm4wx]

You need to look up hand scraping of machine ways (for lathes, mills, surface plates, etc). Talk about flat!!

[@tyrel7185]

Flat-Yes, smooth-no. This would cause gaskets to fail because way scrapeing creates pockets for oil to sit in. Not what you want for a gasket. 2 different controls as far as geometric dimensioning and tolerancing is concerned.

[@HeidiFegles]

Oh you mean by pro, decking it on a milling machine, cuz that’s what the pros do. But I forgot, I’m the .001 % of machinists, that actually can machine and build anything.

[@dysonspreybar4903]

jesus christ, pulling the engine for machining would cost the customer much more money…

[@HeidiFegles]

@@dysonspreybar4903 maybe or cost them if done incorrectly, only you will know the results as a mechanic of your work, and how you did, IV had success doing it this way, Jesus did say let this engine breathe cold air…

[@habibmaroonaffara1927]

Hire me, I'll shoot your videos and work with you I'm a photographer and intermediate mechanic. Maybe an internship something

[@Josh-b3c]

I don't know about razor blades you could scratch the surface I've always just used a flat scraper with a green Scotch-Brite pad under it and scrub with that

[@chevy36ful]

I am lucky, drop the block into the hot tank wait 3 hours hose it down, no gasket, Josh what’s you email I will some good fail photo’s.