Cleaning a Dutch Mameluke sabre (before rust destroys it)

[@El_Beardo]

If you want to really preserve every hint of the remaining etching/engraving, I'd recommend an EDTA based approach. Either using IPostSwords' chelation/gel based approach, or the much less tricky "sit in a bath of EDTA/tap water for a few hours" approach. Second one might be slightly more tricky, given how strong that curve is.

[@Rapiersdelight]

Yes, that was definitely an option I considered. I did get in touch with Ipostswords about his chelation approach, but have not yet been able to try it out. I have some setup challenges I need to figure out for that. What made me choose the method I used was the amount of active rust, and the fact I would not have access to it for a few months after buying it. I was not going to let it keep rusting while away. Thanks for your input!

[@Daveed56]

What era do you place this sabre in? I have one I purchased a few years back here in the States, blued & gilt blade, complete with iron scabbard with mounts matching the cross guard decoration, also it retains it's iron chain guard,

[@Rapiersdelight]

According to J.P. Puype, in his book Blanke Wapens, it was a popular style of sword between 1830 and 1860.

[@Daveed56]

Thanks, you confirmed my thoughts. I suspected it was an import for the officer that liked something a little different for the pre- Civil War/ Civil War era, probably for a Militia unit.@@Rapiersdelight

[@chuckschillingvideos]

If you truly valued this sword you would go nowhere near it with a green scrubby. You really need to leave this sort of thing to someone who understands what they're doing and doesn't attack it with abrasives..

[@Rapiersdelight]

Thanks for your input. As with many things there are many different opinions and approaches to collecting swords. Some go for a "no intervention" approach, others like to polish and restore them to pristine condition. I fall somewhere in the middle, I think. I like to clean and lightly work on my swords to give them a bit of dignity back, but I don't think I go overboard with them, obviously it's a matter of opinion, and it's ok to disagree. One thing I want to mention, though, is that I tend to enjoy picking up swords in rough shape, rusted, pitted or covered in grime. I like to think I'm giving them a new life by removing active rust that is damaging them, and giving them their dignity back hidden under dirt and dust. I usually consider each sword and what I think should be done to it. In some cases oil is enough, in others some light rubbing with autosol, in others some more vigorous action. In the case of this sword there was enough active rust that even after a first rub it was not gone, and as there was no trace of gilding or blueing remaining I felt it was safe enough to use the pad I used. Ultimately there are no marks left on the blade from the pad, and the rust is gone. I consider that a good thing. If you have a process you would like to suggest, I'm happy to give it a go and maybe even compare it with a different method in a future video. Moreover, the "do not intervene" approach, which is common among many collectors, is often more concerned with the resale value of the sword than anything else. That is not a concern for me. I buy swords I like to be able to handle them, look at the up close, and learn more about them, not to make a profit, so the fact that cleaning them vigorously might turn off some collectors is a non-issue for me. In any case, I generally try out the method of cleaning I think will work on a small section of metal first, to ensure I am not causing any damage, if everything works out, I move to the full blade. It goes without saying that blades with delicate decorations will not be treated in the same way as ones that are covered in rust, and that a rare, one-of-a-kind sword will not be treated as a broken briquet of the mid 19th century. Ultimately it's a case by case call that I make. For example, another sword I cleaned with a similar pad (it was covered in rust, albeit not necessarily active) revealed a series of regimental marks and maker marks that enabled me to identify it precisely to the unit it was assigned to. I feel like uncovering this is more valuable than keeping 150 years-worth of rust and dirt on it (and no, I didn't polish it like new, not did I leave marks on it). Ultimately, approaches to preservation and conservation are many and different. I feel I'm doing my best with caution and with the knowledge and experience I have, however, we are all always learning, so happy to hear what your approach is.