Cleaning Coins: Myths, Truths, and Stabilization Techniques Volume 2

[@MegaRaduB1]

I also dip some of my coins in acetone but the thing I've noticed is that some of that black dirth just won't go away without some kind of "scrubbing". That's why beside just dipping the coin in acetone, I also dip a wooden/paper-stick q-tip in it and gently try to lightly rub the surface applying as little pressure as necessary. After a few seconds the q-tip turns black/dark/green. I will change the q-tip with a clean one and repeat the process until the black dirt is completely removed. Then I rinse the coin with fresh acetone and call it a day. I always take a look at my coins before and after this process under a 10x magnifying glass and I didn't noticed any hairlines. In fact, I experimented with a Silver Eagle and even a cheap silver proof coin how hard should I press on the coin with the wet q-tip in order to leave hairlines and I literally had to press like crazy to leave a mark.

[@Dub-C_Coins]

This is where I think individual experimentation can be of benefit. Proceed cautiously with low value pieces first. And remember: third party graders may find any of this--including my acetone technique--evidence of improper cleaning.

[@MegaRaduB1]

​@@Dub-C_Coinsabsolutely! I wonder how many coins in our collections were already cleaned at least once at some time in their history and we don't even know it...

[@ExpositionMedals]

Evaluating toning seems to be the hardest part sizing up coins and medals.

[@Steelythestacker]

I recieved a couple Goddard's silver polishing cloths in the mail today. I refine small amounts of sterling silverware and jewelry, the occasional damaged or smoothie coin that is 25% or more light. From that garbage sillver I make 5 and 10 gram buttons. The 10 gram rounds are poured in a small mold and the 5 gram buttons I just let cool in the melt dish as a natural button. They look pretty good after cooling but that cloth really polishes them up nice after I stamp them.

[@Dub-C_Coins]

Love the idea of pouring silver. I'll get up the nerve one day!

[@Steelythestacker]

@@Dub-C_Coins doing it small like I do is pretty easy. A torch and melt dish are ez mode compared to a furnace and ounce plus molds. Just keep in mind melting cement silver takes much more heat and time than melting shot or crystal.

[@ivanbasso3027]

I use clear ammonia to remove light tarnish.

[@Dub-C_Coins]

I don't have any experience with ammonia. But it should be noted that ammonia is one of the main ingredients in some silver polishes. I suspect the major third party graders would frown on ammonia use.

[@ivanbasso3027]

@@Dub-C_Coins you can also use a propane torch to heat the coin surface very lightly to decompose silver oxide.

[@fillibus11]

I have a couple of tubes of American Silver Eagles that the dealer handled with his bare hands. Would it be safe to dip them in acetone to remove the fingerprints and oils so it won't tarnish and get spots? He just pulled them out of the tube into his bare hands and counted them in front of me. I wasn't happy about that at all!

[@Dub-C_Coins]

I think it would be. Oils can start to etch the surface of a coin, too, so eventually they become more permanent--or at least much more difficult to remove.

[@lemarb11]

I’m looking for a deal on a Centenario. Best looking coin made hands down.

[@Dub-C_Coins]

Right there with you. One of my all time favorites. I showed mine in a video earlier this year: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnXFfXmEqM-mrZo

[@CrowDragonPirate]

What can't acetone do?

[@Dub-C_Coins]

Can't fix that which can't be fixed. But it is pretty great stuff when used properly!

[@michaelbuckley6710]

I may try some Acetone on my old dirty Mexican early date 10,20,50 Centavos. They aren't really valuable coins and not sending any of my coins to be graded.

[@TobaccoRowe1960]

We should really speak about drying Acid onto a Coin. Acetone is pH 5.5 acid. When dried it is only condensed. It does not evaporate. When exposed to moister it goes right back to being acid, not something you would want a child to put in their mouth. It is general knowledge in the coin collecting community, never let Acid dry onto your Coins. I did a half hour review of this video. It should give you second thoughts.

[@Dub-C_Coins]

Acetone doesn't dry. It is extremely volatile and evaporates completely and quickly in air. If using pure acetone, there is no residue to dry or condense. In fact, acetone is often used as a final rinse on glass equipment in lab settings because it evaporates completely with no residue. This is general knowledge in the chemical community. I welcome your video rebuttals and I encourage viewers to explore the topic further and come to their own conclusions. www.ezchemusa.com/products/solvents#:~:text=100%20%25%20Volatile:%20ACETONE%20is%20completely,must%20be%20used%20with%20caution.

[@TobaccoRowe1960]

@@Dub-C_Coins I'll read this article. But I worked at Vulcan Chemical for four years. We Make all kinds of Acids. We are required to attend many safety meetings. I myself have been caught in a Hydrochloride (gas) release. ACID Does Not Evaporate. it turns into a salt that remains on the COIN. That salt left on your Coin is Acidic. Watch my video or google it yourself. IT PLAINLY STATES ACETONE IS A MILD ACID!!!! Do Not Leave Acid on your coins. You are teaching people to damage their coins. And all you had to do was rinse it off with distilled water as you were told to do.

[@TobaccoRowe1960]

I did a reply to this comment, I explain how we make Acid at Vulcan Chemicals here in Wichita. Acetone has a pH of 5.5, mild Acid. Acetone has Salt in it. pH 5.5. It also has Solvent, I explain, how we make that to. The Solvent evaporates but the Salt stays on your coin and continues to damage your coin. It is not considered a leaving a residue like oil is because Salt is not considered to be a Residue, it is considered to be Salt Crystals. Never Dry Acid Onto Your Coins, like you just did. Everyone will tell you, rinse the acid off of the coin before drying.

[@alexanderbust4652]

First