Climber Explains Kilonewtons, MBS, WLL.

  Рет қаралды 7,466

BetaClimbers

BetaClimbers

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 26
@amosc123abc
@amosc123abc 4 жыл бұрын
Hey, just wanted to clear some science up at 1:33 ; You mention that something get heavier after falling a certain distance. This isn't true - you'll always be the same mass regardless of how much you've fallen. What you're implying here (and the reason climbing gear is rated in kN) is that the force is larger the more we fall - this is completely true. A piece of gear doesn't care how much mass its taking, it only cares about the force. The force is made up of two factors; mass and deceleration (Newtons 2nd law). An object resting on gear needs to overcome gravity, which accelerates something at 9.81m/s^2. Hence it will need 9.81m/s^2 of deceleration to remain at rest. This deceleration times its mass will give you the force of the object at rest. Lets assume now the object is falling - this means that to catch the falling object, we will need to overcome gravity AND decelerate the object to zero velocity. This means that we will need larger deceleration, and thus, the force on the gear will be larger (because; force= mass x deceleration). This is interesting physics in the climbing world because a lot of thought is put into trying to lower the deceleration of the falling object (because we obviously cant change the mass of a falling object). This is where the origins of dynamic rope and rip-stops/shock-absorbers come from. We still decelerate the object down to zero velocity, but its done over a much larger time-frame because of the stretch in the equipment - giving us a lower value for deceleration (object is slowed down slowly as opposed to in a sharp 'jolt'... aka shock load) If i didn't explain that well id happily rephrase it - im just a petty climbing scientist :P
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 4 жыл бұрын
Best comment award Goes to you Sir Thanks!
@Arnond35
@Arnond35 3 жыл бұрын
heavier means it has more weight (force), so i'd argue "yes, a falling object has more 'weight', but not more mass." If he said a falling object becomes more massive, then that would be incorrect. But it's all semantics anyway
@brendanrodgers5044
@brendanrodgers5044 3 жыл бұрын
@@Arnond35 He says exactly that in the second paragraph.
@sinergiaduo7612
@sinergiaduo7612 4 жыл бұрын
I loved the video specially the humor
@lmay4518
@lmay4518 3 жыл бұрын
Yes! We want fall factors please and thank you
@joelmiller2064
@joelmiller2064 3 жыл бұрын
Fall factors would be cool to hear about
@liveresist
@liveresist 3 жыл бұрын
2021 subscriber here but I love your videos!
@FallLineJP
@FallLineJP 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for a great video as always. About #4, "don't fall farther than you have to" - is there any situation where the belayer should try to give a soft catch by jumping to meet the climber's fall? (Assuming no risk of a ground fall, obviously) Or is this just an old superstition that doesn't make sense with modern gear and rope? Cheers!
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 4 жыл бұрын
There might be some science behind that but I have always just tried to let the rope slip out more which is a bit of a advanced technique. That’s of course if I’m trying to decrease a shock load on some abnormal fall. I’ll have to ad this to the video list now lol!
@KILONEWTONS
@KILONEWTONS 2 жыл бұрын
Nice
@FallLineJP
@FallLineJP 4 жыл бұрын
So, *where* is it that you're always climbing out to?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 4 жыл бұрын
That’s a secret 🤫
@orecamaney7809
@orecamaney7809 6 жыл бұрын
Hey man hope you are fine, yesterday i dropped a quickdraw by accident 15 meters down, the carabiners look fine, but is there a chance that the carabiners may be weakened in the kn limit should i retire the gear? Thanks for the content
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 6 жыл бұрын
That’s a great question and could be a controversial one. A study was done on dropped gear once I’ll link it below. They dropped gear 100ft and then pull tested them and found they where still just as strong. Some ppl believe dropped gear can introduce “micro fractures” which can weaken the gear. And on the other hand big wall climbers would chuck there gear 1500 feet off the cliff in the 80s in order to not have to hike it down and not give it a second thought. Personally for me it would all depend, how old is it, what did it land on sand, dirt, rock ect. From 15 meters or 45 feet I don’t think I would worry about it but it’s a personal call if it bugs you and hinders your climbing state of mind then that is damage enough to retire it id think. www.outdoorsafetyinstitute.com/news/single/should_you_retire_a_dropped_carabiner/
@orecamaney7809
@orecamaney7809 6 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers thanks again man, great answer i will read the article
@mapispecapac
@mapispecapac 5 жыл бұрын
👍👍
@timothyjnau
@timothyjnau 5 жыл бұрын
2:12 LOL
@cathysilva5435
@cathysilva5435 6 жыл бұрын
? ? ? ?
@bryanbeltran6066
@bryanbeltran6066 5 жыл бұрын
Aae
@mrenormouscroc
@mrenormouscroc Жыл бұрын
Sure, I get it, you've done lots of molly.... please just try sticking to the subject
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