Climbing in The Bugaboos

[@andrizzzle4226]

Good show fellas! @1:30 you state all you're bringing are climbing shoes for the ascent of the Pigeon Spire. 1) Is the route doable in approach shoes? 2) Is it customary to ascend this route without a rope? 3) Is the glacier considered to be stable, are there any crevasses?

[@antstead]

@Andrizzzle, I think Pigeon Spire is doable in approach shoes. Re the rope, we've done a lot of mountaineering and climbing before going to the Bugs so we were happy to go without a rope, but if you're new climbing you might find the exposure such that you'd prefer a rope. Most of the route is a scramble...there only a few exposed moved to get to the summit. So the rope call is up to you. :) The glacier when we were there was totally filled in, and no one was roping up, no crevasses, but getting back down the the campsite can require an abseil late in the season, as I understand. Hope that helps.

[@andrizzzle4226]

@@antstead The insight is much appreciated!! I'm an experienced climber living in Eastern Canada, comfortable with technical rock climbing and exposure but I have no glacier experience besides taking a crevasse rescue course. I'm planning a trip to the Bugs with a few friends in May to gain comfort in the Alpine terrain, aiming to climb the pigeon spire and move about on the glacier. We're considering leaving the rope and climbing shoes behind altogether but still uncertain. (I just ordered the guidebook for more insight) We're going to get more multi-pitch experience back home this summer and return for the real action next year to tackle some hard climbs.

[@antstead]

@@andrizzzle4226 Gotta take the trad rack and the ropes, there are SO many epic climbs to do there! The alpine rock is so good!

[@revenant7734]

Nice video! Which route up the Bugaboo Spire did you do? Northeast Ridge?

[@antstead]

Yup

[@arturoherrera1386]

Hello - my climbing partner and I are planning to climb the Kain route in either late July or early August. Any suggestions or bits of advice?

[@telestix6606]

Great video thanks 1) 5.6 in the bugs is a 5.6 in Squamish? 2) I assume you stayed at Applebee camp which took about 4 hours in based on the video? 3) Anything you wish you had done or done differently we are headed there in september any tips would be appreciated.

[@antstead]

Hey Brian, 5.6 is pretty much same, its the approaches which are big differences: Snow and rock scrambles to get the base of the routes. Stayed at Applebee camp, I think it took about 4 hours. Tip: Make you pitch your tent where water won't pool when/if it rains. Hope that helps, have fun!

[@telestix6606]

@@antstead thanks

[@bigpimpinc230]

What's with the mesh around your vehicles? I've never seen that before.

[@antstead]

There are some animals that like to chew on the rubber parts of the car, from memory, a Porcupine? (Someone else correct me if I'm wrong). There is a huge pile of wire mesh at the carpark, and almost all the cars had the mesh there, so we just followed suit.

[@kartikravi1276]

What months are the best to climb at the bugs?

[@antstead]

I was there in July, which provided me with good access to the climbs, still snow on low angle stuff, but little or no snow on the rock climbs. Hope that helps.

[@dr.germanromer3555]

Muy linda escalada, el granito es impecable. increíble lugar!