When I did it in '87 some of the pitches ran it out for the full pitch. I remember 1 lassoed chicken head that was the only pro on another. And many of the higher pitches did not have anchors. My wife re-separated her shoulder mid route, climbed the upper slabs with one arm. Spent the night shivering on top, having topped out at dusk, and weren't willing to descend the cables by headlamp with one of us one-handed. Cables were "down" and we sat shivering in the snow on top for the night. A character build exercise to say the least.
@grahmtheoverstoker3 ай бұрын
Totally epic! Glad you all made it back okay. She’s a tough woman!
@kid5MediaАй бұрын
Every dike pitch had a bolt midway in the 1970s. Having climbed it previously by full -moonlight, the second time we just skipped all the mid-pitch bolts.
@kid5MediaАй бұрын
One of the better Snake Dike videos. But none of them get across just how bomber those holds are.
@grahmtheoverstoker25 күн бұрын
I appreciate it! The stone is monument worthy!
@Johnny-Rocks6 ай бұрын
Hey Grahm! I’m so glad I was your climbing partner on this climb! We had an epic and fun day. Proud to get to rope up with you my friend!
@grahmtheoverstoker6 ай бұрын
I enjoyed climbing with you! It was an honor! Stoked for our next epic!
@arneboveng37566 ай бұрын
Very Cool! I did not realize the Dike was that runout. I liked reading your summary. You have some good insight on the politics you mentioned, having had an old 1/4"er break on you. I would have never guessed, and always discounted this route in my mind, on Supertopo whenever discussion came up. Might be fun to scour what's left on the Supertopo threads.
@grahmtheoverstoker6 ай бұрын
I’m glad you read it! It’s quite the undertaking of a route. I’ll have to dig those old threads too!
@maxcoldest71966 ай бұрын
Climbed that in 1977! No pee hole then! Yes, the runouts were a bit sketch...considering I'd had pro drop out on me @ Devils Tower that same summer. (Was looking @ a 75' screamer @ the crux) Climbed the 1st pitch HIGH speed, bc we had bivvied @ the base & were " entertained" early AM by a bear cub just down the talus From us. When I got 2 the belay, I could C the momma bear just below my partner (Steve Wright: I wish I could find U!!). Needless 2 say I encouraged him 2 CLIMB!! True story for an old climber who lived in the valley...
@dennislrobertson6 ай бұрын
Very nice video 👍🏼
@robertpearson91376 ай бұрын
Those bolts were already old 20 years ago when I did it.
@joshcourt67443 ай бұрын
Totally forgot about the "UFO" what a fun day. That dike is possibly the coolest rock I've ever seen
@jonfrank51136 ай бұрын
Just saw this. The old guy in the group behind you looked a little shaky. I hope he is ok. You should have hit the Garmin SOS button for him. Great job on the video.
@Johnny-Rocks6 ай бұрын
I’ll vouch for that old guy behind us……that he WAS shaky and frail and….OLD! But I love him to death!…..😄…….actually, he’s a rockstar!
@cbrass66 ай бұрын
I climbed this in 2020, and donated 100$ bucks to ASCA for bolt replacement (earmarked for Snake Dike) because I also saw they sucked. Apparently they didn't use it :(
@ishy-gc2uc6 ай бұрын
Me and a friend were asking a ranger for some beta on this climb, and he told us not to step in the pee hole. We asked him what the pee hole was and he said: "You'll know it when you see it." 19:00
@grahmtheoverstoker6 ай бұрын
You’ll know it when you smell it 🤣
@partykrew6666 ай бұрын
thats so fucking disgusting hahahah
@batmanluver1235 ай бұрын
did you laminate the route topo and slung it on your harness? very cool, will want to copy that idea 🙂
Hi. That's some quite long runout's I think haha, good job! What shoes are you using here?
@danielraven38556 ай бұрын
They look like TC pros
@KlausJorgen6 ай бұрын
@@danielraven3855 Nice, I'm using Miura's now, are TC pro's worth buying?
@KlausJorgen6 ай бұрын
@@danielraven3855 Cool, I'm using Miura lace's now, you think is worth upgrade to the TC pro's ?
@grahmtheoverstoker6 ай бұрын
@KlausJorgen those are the two shoes that I switch between in a regular basis! I use TC pros for long days and wide cracks and muiras for performance.
@KlausJorgen6 ай бұрын
@@grahmtheoverstokercool 😎 I will buy the TC pro’s because I’m trying to get more into multi pitch and trad. I think I should have some of your advice for overcome fear 😂
@gabrielharward4189Ай бұрын
I’m so confused so do you just not place gear? Because for the first long while I didn’t see a single placement and I wouldn’t have been shaking in my boots 😂 is that just how this climb is? R rated?
@grahmtheoverstoker25 күн бұрын
It’s notoriously R rated! You can do a different P1 variation that has more gear
@alexrichard4866 ай бұрын
not the sniffing the pee hole omg
@adamandpayt3 ай бұрын
Did you guys end up doubling ropes to rap the cables?
@grahmtheoverstoker3 ай бұрын
Nope! We just hand over handed the cables with our PASs clipped to them lol
@bryced712614 сағат бұрын
if i ever climb this im bringing knee and elbow pads
@FrickoMode26 ай бұрын
thats not quartz mountain...
@grahmtheoverstoker6 ай бұрын
Sadly not!
@MarcDonahu6 ай бұрын
So not an alpine start😊
@grahmtheoverstoker6 ай бұрын
Nope! Haha we were tired of getting up crazy early. And being last in the conga line was kinda nice