Closing the loop Closed Loop Steppers (BigTreeTech S42B v2.0)

[@gladiatormechs5574]

Will this work on the artillary sidewinder x 1

[@mariomanus3176]

teaching tech had a good result with s42b. you might have missed some adjustments in the firmware.

[@Piccyman1]

I guess closed loop systems are better with ball screws or lead screws

[@saddle1940]

I'd be interested in them if first, the board was split into two and the magnetic sensor part still bolted to the stepper but the rest was on a separate board I could put anywhere. That way the stepper motor wouldn't be physically much longer. Second, if it came with no driver and I could plug my existing driver onto it (the one I pulled off the controller board). Also, I suspect your print failed because you went more than one stepper rotation in the jerk and it would just bring it back to the closest rotation for the magnetic field it was looking for.

[@pomanpomahovich9265]

Добрый день не подскажите зачем на плате драйвера есть четыре переключателя

[@johnnyjoseph1389]

I'm using a set of these on my layerfused x501 build... I wish I would have seen this video first cuz I probably wouldn't have bothered. Another problem you didn't mention is if your printer was designed for sensorless homing you will have to add end stops. The driver's on these don't support homing.

[@3DMakeIt]

Good call I didn't even think of that! I don't use sensorless homing anywhere. Tested it a few times mind you but I just like the click of the switch instead of the grind of the motor haha 😄 thanks for the comment!

[@steffenhehn2033]

I would like and buy them, when using tmc motor drivers. I dont understand why such bad drivers are used on this boards

[@BH4x0r]

the thing is his belts werent tight enough but anyways, they're just PWM drivers, the microcontroller on the board is doing what an A4988 or TMCXXXX would do internally, just with PID and other smart things to make it as accurate and smooth as possible and to compensate for lost steps so the A... drivers on the board here aren't really stepper drivers.

[@thelightspeed3d712]

I thought they were just to stop step skipping? I have never heard of them making your printer faster

[@3DMakeIt]

The faster was a question asked by out patreon members. But ya they are primarily to stop skipped steps.

[@kingofl337]

I have the earlier versions of this on my Anycubic Chiron on the X and Y. You mention the belt skipping but if your belt is tight that shouldn't really be an issue. The thing that causes junk prints, especially large ones is layer shifting. The layer shifting is caused by the Nozzel dragging on the infill or a blob of plastic which these drivers power right through. Your bump test is irrelevant as that is not an accurate test. What you should do is set the machine to over extruding with the different drivers and test it out. Also, while this is a more advanced topic you may have to play with the P.I.D. settings to get the best performance out of them. Lastly, one huge downside at least on mine is by default the drivers don't have a fault output. When normal servos lose too many steps they fault usually disabling the drive. I've had this happen and the printer didn't know that the driver had faulted and kept right no printing which ended up with a pool of plastic as one axis faulted, and then later the other did and then the head stayed in place and kept dumping plastic. It's only happened once but it was a bummer.

[@3DMakeIt]

the it wasn't so much the belt it was the steppers

[@Kalvinjj]

My tip is to just configure them as TB6600 instead - these drivers on Marlin are about the same as the A4988 but with the exact same pulse width/duration and step rates as the two defines that you have to configure otherwise. Both do the exact same so there is no "correct" between the two. For me those steppers solved my issues entirely. I work on leadscrew drive for all 3 axis, X and Y those closed loop ones, dual Z and extruder TMC2208s. Had those TMCs on NEMA 23s before and they just don't work. Don't use those bigger NEMA 23s with TMC2208s. No matter how much you set current and such, to begin with StealthChop is useless, it won't run them at any decent speed. Second of, NEMA 23s seem to get stuck on resonances during very specific speeds, also vibrating like mad and screaming horribly (that's on SpreadCycle). I just got fed up and instead of trying to get lucky with good 17s just went with those and happy ever since, other than the money spent. It might be part on the lead screw drive (like, for 16x microstepping I use 512 steps/mm) but I really have absolutely zero artifacts on them as well.

[@BH4x0r]

i feel like your belts werent anywhere near tight enough, i can push on my bed and the belt wont skip

[@saddle1940]

I think it was pushed more than one stepper rotation.

[@BH4x0r]

out of my experience you can put the X or Y in the center of your printer and even if you push it all the way back, if you release it so it can jump back/correct itself it will jump all the way back to the center of the printer, which is many stepper rotations.