Installing a DRO on a PM-940 Milling Machine - Part 2 - 4-Axis EL400

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

Its nice to see someone who is obviously on the level

[@shrikedecil]

Amusingly, Stefan Gotteswinter was making a "Tip for an airgun" in last video. Looked like a perfect fit for what you wanted.

[@BajaBill7]

Just about to say the same thing, a good 3d printer project!

[@buckhanan363]

"because" - good enough reason for me... Thanks for posting videos.

[@piccilos]

Look at this guy, all fancy just because he doesn't have a broken tap in the back of his mill table, like the rest of us. 😄

[@garyw.elmqurst6272]

Hi James, First I want to thank you for your videos your presentation is Outstanding! Do not change please, you are one of very few that has taken the time to teach, and at a speed that many can retain and learn from. I wish I had this video back when I first installed my DRO. I always like when people have to make comments of what you should do when they are in someone else's living room. Keep on doing the outstand teaching and sharing what you know and learn with others. God bless you. GW

[@guyloughridge4628]

Wonderful comment about wearing safety glasses. My own experience... at dusk one evening I was outside behind a truck. On the back of the truck, hanging just over the top of the tailgate, was a sheet of 1/8" steel measuring 1/8" X 4 foot X 8 foot. The sheet was laying horizontally. As I turned and started walk in a new direction my head swung into the corner of the sheet. The cut was level with my eye an only 1" away from the eye. The cut was so deep that it didn't immediately bleed. Now when I arrive at my shop I put my safety glasses on as I get out of the truck. I wear them all day long. Accidents can come in a number of ways. I was very lucky... lucky also to have a friend nearby.

[@Clough42]

A finish carpenter friend of mine was distressing a wooden beam with a wire wheel in an angle grinder when he got a phone call and took off his face shield. After he got off the phone, he had only a little bit left to finish up and forgot to put his safety gear back on. A wire dislodged from the wheel and penetrated his eye. Long story short, he pulled it out, drove himself to the hospital, and fully recovered. He was lucky.

[@marcj8464]

The advantage of being a reformed woodworker is that you have all of the clamps!

[@Clough42]

Yeah. I probably shouldn't use the Bessey K-Body clamps for welding, but they're nice to have.

[@EastLondonKiwi]

Hi, I would drip paraffin wax into the hex heads to keep them dirt free. Your wife should have 100s of those small T-lights on hand (mine certainly does) you can source wax from. When you need to remove the screw just add a small bit of heat from a match or similar (not a flame thrower) will burn out the wax and your head will be clean and lovely. I bet you are missing your quick change collet on this new mill, I can see that dust cover hitting the bin after a dozen or so changes :)

[@M_Northstar]

Came down here to say exactly this. Or instead of wax, you could use a bit of modeling clay, and then either just force through it, or bake it and make a cap that you can take out when you need access.

[@kasonclark1459]

instablaster...

[@TheDigitalHombre]

Hi James! When installing the x measuring ruler, make sure that the oil point is not covered. I have a similar machine and after half a year the rear dovetails had jammed due to insufficient lubrication. It is useful to also considerably shorten the two mounting bolts for the table drive. That makes cleaning the table much easier. I also raised the machine 10 cm, better for the back.

[@Clough42]

The oil port on this machine seems pretty much useless. It literally goes straight down and ends on top of the dovetail with no visible distribution grooves. I extend the table fully to each side and apply way oil with a brush before I use it. A one-shot oiler would be handy.

[@gangleweed]

Sad to think....my father was a tool maker and never had a DRO to make his life easier.......I consider my life blessed now I have a DRO fitted to my jig borer/mill.....how did I ever live without one......reading the table movement is so much more precise than counting the turns of a leadscrew......and to 5 microns accuracy.

[@staciedziedzic8706]

Hi James! I know exactly what channel I’m watching! I really love the fact that you are taking the time to make sure what you are doing is right! You can be sure that when you post a video I will be watching! Take care!

[@34k5]

I have a Rong Fu RF-45 version of that mill and I use my dewalt impact driver with a 17mm socket to loosen and tighten the draw bar - works great even if the machine is in high gear. And as far as i`m concerned it has not over torqued the draw bar or put any damage on it in 3 years!

[@misterfixit1952]

When I mounted my DRO panel, I didn't like the Chinese arm that came with it. Instead, I used an articulated LCD TV mount (20-36") that I had laying around. I use these for mounting computer monitors to the wall. This gave me more mounting options on the mill and also gave me more adjustment after installation. With the manual table feed handle on the right, I wanted to be able to move the DRO out front, aimed to the right. Same with using the power feed on the left. And of course straight ahead. I have a Mill/Drill and because of the quill-down triple handle on the right, I didn't couldn't mount the DRO on the right side. There were some controls and the down-feed lock handle on the left, but it was low so I decided to mount the DRO pivot base, back by the head mount about 2/3rds up. With the articulated arm, I was able to keep things tight but still be able to pull the DRO out far enough to easily see when standing close to the right feed handle. Also, the TV arm head (where it attaches to the DRO) swivels in 2 axis, allowing me to tilt it down a bit and swivel it right and left. It tucks nicely behind the mill face but pulls out and swivels completely to the right so I'm not looking at it sideways, but face-on. This is important because my DRO is one of the LCD ones. I hope this info helps a bit with your mounting decision. That last step drove me nuts for a couple of days since I had to drill into the head to mount the DRO. I needed it right the first time to avoid installers remorse (where did I put that Bondo?). Good luck.

[@patpliley5535]

Always interesting. I like the way you explain why you do things the way you do, and not like your talking down to some one , but this is the reason you are doing it this way.

[@jbergenudd]

17:30 can't you just cover the button head with some sort of flexible cap that you can remove if you need the screw it out in the future?

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

You’re so giddy with the new mill, congrats! 👍🏼

[@richardweirbach1405]

Very much like all the parts I made for a DRO on my Bridgeport mill - works great - you will love yours

[@bobuk5722]

Hi James, I said on the last video that I thought I'd like that bridge design and now I've seen it I really do. Thanks - very helpful to me. BobUK

[@kevincook2591]

To find the correct drill size for a metric thread take the pitch of the nominal size eg M8x1.25 pitch use a 6.75Drill, M4x,7use a 3.3 drill

[@routercnc9517]

I use that method too but note it only applies to coarse threads.

[@MrPatdeeee]

Awesome! James is a part of progress in life. Whatever barrier he runs into; he WILL find away around it; with out giving up. That is what made America what it was. May Jesus continue to guide this man into yet more technological improvements to make our lives better.

[@gangleweed]

Sigh....why do stupid do-gooders just have to bring religion into everything.

[@Blue.4t2]

There are plastic cover caps that push into the socket of the screw. That would keep the swarf out. ⭐️😊👍

[@davelewis3963]

Really appreciate your videos. Like your attention to detail and what we need to be thinking about!

[@Caughtitoutdoors]

Thanks for uploading. I am definitely looking into getting this mill. I just Put an El400 on my 13x40 lathe and love it, and I think I will opt for an EL400 on a mill. Looking forward to more videos of this mill in action. Thanks.

[@petermurphy5138]

Hi James, would have been a perfect opportunity to utilise your 'Tapping Guide' that you 3D printed in an earlier episode :-)

[@ghl3488]

Hi James, nice job, very precise. Staring building my mill today, at least got it off the pallet without incident. Nightmare. Reday for the stand in the morning. Thanks for the video, enjoyed it. Regards Gareth

[@DrFiero]

I've had a 3 axis DRO sitting by my (non-CNC) G0704 for about 5 years waiting to be installed (hey, I've been busy!). Maybe I'll steal some of your ideas after scaling them down and get motivated enough to actually install the thing. For some reason it doesn't read properly when not installed. ;)

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Nice, that's quite a bit different than the cheap-o Ebay one I just installed. Of course in hindsight, I wish I did the x-axis first too 🤣. Also, I have just discovered that a drill point endmill is excellent for milling slots 😁. Guess some call them "slot drills", now I know why. Great vid, James! 👍😊👍 Cheers!

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nice new setup James. .0005 on a drill chuck is great.

[@bigmotter001]

Nice work as always James. I learn so much from every one of your vids. Thanks for the time and effort you put forth to inform and educate us. Take care!

[@larrysmurthwaite773]

Interesting you are putting the display on the right side; most displays are mounted on the left since most folks look to the left first. I think it’s because how we were taught to read left to right? On my lathe of course it is on the left since that’s where the head stock is but I did mount my display on my mill to the left. When I had my Bridgeport with the factory DRO it was mounted on the right. Maybe it’s if you plan to use the left side wheel or right side wheel for the X travel?

[@Clough42]

The x crank and quill levers are on the right. Having the DRO on the left would be rough.

[@bcnelson]

I'll try to get ahead on it. For the next video you should probably wear safety glasses.

[@flikflak24]

or full lenth pants ( at least when takeing heavy cuts in steal. trust me those small hot nasty buggers hurt/ burn even worse then you think. done it my selv one to meany time)

[@ccga3359]

He had his safety contacts in...

[@rpavlik1]

Wow I was not expecting the power tapping in aluminum! So from Menards I've gotten (several times) a air blow gun kit that had a ball inflator needle that could thread into the main body with valve. Now I know why (not for exploding basketballs after all...) Btw, Having tried flux core in my machine since I last commented on your channel (I asked why you started with tig), I can confirm that wire feed is definitely like metal hot glue. So if you ever get tired of doing your aluminum welding the fancy way with tig, go get a mig machine and spool gun...

[@Clough42]

I have a spool gun and you'll see it welding aluminum soon.

[@rpavlik1]

@@Clough42 oh very cool!

[@theessexhunter1305]

If you have a .200 lead screw then set the dial to minus .050 then when you pitch off the dial will be 0 learnt that @ 16. save doing it twice.

[@Clough42]

Good tip.

[@theessexhunter1305]

@@Clough42 well if the dro goes down then the old ways will save your a##e lol

[@MikeEversole-g5i]

Why did you get rid of this mill? I'm thinking of one of these to go with my PM 12X36 lathe. Wanted to make sure there are no issues with the 940, and I value your opinion. Thank you in advance.

[@rocket_rod67]

Could you mount the Y axis scale on the RHS that way you wouldn’t need to reroute the cable.

[@Clough42]

The gib locks are on the right. There's a lot going on over there.

[@DaCat2]

Excellent video as always, thanks for doing what you do, we do appreciate the effort you put into these productions. I noticed that you opted not to use loctite to keep the screws from coming loose with vibration. I have not done an install like this myself (one day... in the meantime I count), but I would have opted for a drop of loctite on those threads. Your thoughts on this?

[@cjtroutt8092]

Hi James I would put power draw bar on the pm940 that unit looks close to my tormach pcnc1100 s3

[@maikeydii]

About the socket filling up with debris. You could just fill it up with a dab of RTV silicone or similar that will come out easily.

[@19672701]

Great attention to detail, I'll be investing in a dro for a small mill I have.

[@brianmckenzie1739]

Great video production, well storyboarded, nice lighting and use of microphone. Is it hot wherever you are (short sleeves and shorts) ? I clamped a steel block to the back of my mill table - with a hole in it - to act as a guide for the drilling of DRO mounting screw holes. This not only kept the hole square, but importantly maintained the required position, not knowing if the table hardness might cause my hand drilling to wonder.

[@Clough42]

It's below freezing at night here, and a little above in the afternoon, but I had the heat on in the shop all day, so it was pretty comfortable. Using a guide block is a good idea.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Yeah, every other chain sharpening on my chainsaw I flip the bar, and I hate it that _Stihl_ is upside down!

[@philgarbarini9645]

Hi. Sorry for this year late comment/question. Could the manufacturer supply several predrilled/tapped holes? Thanks for taking the time to post this and all your projects.

[@Clough42]

You can buy the mill with the DRO preinstalled for a fee, when they have them in stock.

[@philgarbarini9645]

@@Clough42 Thanks for your reply. I did not think of that. I have a nice Jet RF 30 that I am looking to add a dro to but positioning the head on the round column is challenging at times. I know there’s fixes for this. I have not purchased/fabricated anything yet.

[@NicholasMarshall]

Machinists are the only people that with a straight face can say their Vices provide stability.

[@EricMBlog]

*sets up bot to send an email, tweet, and comment every hour until the end of time, reminding to wear safety glasses

[@jimsvideos7201]

What about a bead of silicone across the top of the chip guard, just to keep the seam between it and the table dry?

[@flikflak24]

hmm maybe you should get a magdrill or magnetic paralel adapter for your drill for the other axis ( i know i would. and not just for the holes for the axis but also for tapeing a hole in a part that i have already taked out of the vise or add a hole later in something )

[@Steve_R]

Nicely done James. Looking forward to rest of the install. Hopefully my PM 728VT will be here in a few weeks. I got the DRO installed version. I'm hoping that my chuck comes in close to yours.( The second one that is). :)

[@danapatelzick594]

I would have tried a block all squared up with a "V" groove because I am slightly clumbsy and live in fear of breaking a tap. Having a new tap helps because it's seen fewer fatigue cycles. Still made me nervous, oh well.

[@ocAToccd]

To prevent chips from getting inside the screw head, you could just put some tape on it... Of course you could also CNC some fancy covers fixed from below if you have enough space or from the back... But knowing you I doubt there will be tape involved 😉

[@Clough42]

Good idea. A piece of kapton would do nicely.

[@matthewhelton1725]

Datum! Data is published or derived information. A Datum is a value or definition for an entry, reference/ monument on a graph, map or a blueprint.

[@twobob]

data is a collection of datum

[@kyrompstomp]

Very good liked your Shop and your attitude. MEL.

[@TheRealTraining]

Just found your channel. Very enjoyable to watch you vids. Question - Why not vacuum up the chips instead of blowing them in the floor where they need to be picked up anyway? Keep up the great vids!!

[@chuckels431]

Hi James, you could 3D print some plugs to snap into the hex holes in those screws. 🙂

[@Clough42]

They're pretty small, but maybe.

[@chrisarmstrong8198]

It might be interesting to check the scale to read head clearance throughout the X-axis travel, in case the rear side of the table is not exactly parallel to the X-axis or the scale is bowed (both unlikely, I know).

[@archaeopteryx6320]

I am trying to decide which mill to get from grizzly I need something small enough for the Benchtop but strong enough to mill pockets in aluminum and mild steel? Any suggestions on what model would be the best for my needs? Also no more than 500 pounds.

[@abbv2x]

Another great vid! Question: at 9:35 for example when you are facing your material, why are you using the end of the bit? Wouldn't you get less chatter by being closer to the base of the bit (less opportunity for bit flexing)? Maybe not an issue with that operation but this is more of a question in general.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Nice work James...

[@matspatpc]

Hope I'm not duplicating a comment here, but the hard to reach points would be fractions of an inch. A whole inch is an even tenth of a mm, so as long as your scale is under a tenth of a mm in precision, you should hit hole and half inches no issue. A quarter inch is 6.35mm, so now you need half a tenth. 1/8" is 3.175mm, which requires half a hundredth - that's very close to 0.0002" by the way, which seems to be the scale of yours. So try getting to exactly 1/16" (1.5875mm) or 3/16" (4.7625mm), and you may find that you have to go a little off. Obviously, you'd also struggle to get 1.0001" - you will need to go to either 1.0000" or 1.0002". Or set it to show only 3 decimal places and round to nearest 3 digit when you convert into thousandths. I still haven't ordered my DRO - or figured out what size I need, for that matter... :)

[@BradenEliason]

"Data" is the original plural of "datum," but in this case it's much clearer to say "datums." It's mostly a style thing, but because "datum" and "data" have taken a life their own in English, I'm fine with treating "data" as a noncount noun (taking a singular verb) that derives from Latin. I'm always curious if people who insist that "data" is strictly plural apply that rule to all Latin words. Do they insist "agenda" is plural too? What about Greek words?

[@dasworkshop4967]

Being the logical sort, I wonder what Data thinks of the subject.

[@johnnybarbar7435]

Hint: All screw head types easily clean out using air.

[@bobweiram6321]

You really think hard about the implications of every choice you make. I wish I was more like that.

[@mtwagner]

For the purposes of getting an idea of how tall the stand is, how tall are you? I’m 6’4”, so these considerations are definitely a thing for us tall folk.

[@Clough42]

I'm 6'. I think about 4" will be good for me. We'll see.

[@gangleweed]

@@Clough42 Just make sure the table level is at your belly button height......all the rest falls in place.

[@frijoli9579]

That looks like a ton of backlash for a new mill. Keep up the great content

[@gangleweed]

Who cares about backlash when you have a DRO.

[@robertgreen94]

Nice video. Are you planning on mainly working in metric, imperial or both depending on what you are milling?

[@Clough42]

I use whatever is most convenient for what I'm doing. Usually that means whatever leads to whole numbers of units instead of long decimals that lead to mental errors.

[@keithgoenner1124]

Little trick when setting your parallel in your vise take a .020 thousand shim stock Give it a bend in it than slide it between parallel and moveable vise jaw in your Kurt vise it will keep your parallel from moving in a production set up Gunny012

[@ADBBuild]

Metal banding strap works great for this. I bend it in a W shape with the outside legs only 1/2" or so long. Then there isn't a sharp edge scraping along the vise jaws/parallels.

[@donteeple6124]

As always your video posts are top notch and informative, I will say though that I'm a little disappointed in that you are using magnetic scales for the DROs. I do realize where you got them and their quality but I will be remised if I didn't mention that the magnetic properties of the scales make them extremely prone to contamination from iron and steel particles despite the use of chip shields. Ive been there and dont that had major issues and switched to glass scales on both my lathe and mill. The magnetic scales did work initially but after about one year in, the accuracy began to be affected and I switched to glass scales....that's been now over 3 years since I switched, and with zero problems. Maybe you will be fortunate and not have troubles with them and if you are, you will be one of the 5% that dont.....Just sayin!!!! Keep up the excellent work.....it's nice to see someone intelligent and articulate in their methodology and actions.

[@Clough42]

Interesting. Many people have had exactly the opposite experience. In fact, DRO Pros positions the magnetic scales as their premium product and offers a better warranty. It will be interesting to see how it pans out.

[@formdog9861]

nice neat job as always

[@billmacfarlane4083]

Loved the video! I'm about to launch into fitting a DRO to my mill, so brilliant timing for me. My mill approximates yours in shape and size, so there's a lot I can glean from this. Thanks!! Also, could you explain your technique of power tapping? Is it like a light pressure as it drives through the work?

[@Clough42]

In general, you just want to let the machine pull itself through at the right speed. This quill has a heavy spring, so I'm trying to apply enough pressure to counter that, but it's tough with a small tap and a flexible workpiece. You must use a machine tap, though. Spiral point or spiral flute.

[@lwilton]

I think I'd use pan head slotted screws for that scale cover rather than the button head cap screws. The pan head screws should be a little shorter than the button head screws, assuming you can get pan head screws in metric.

[@melgross]

Since 2 000 rpm is marginal for a 1/4” bit of any kind (but particularly carbide), and you will be using that, and likely even smaller diameters, why didn’t you get the “V” version of the mill, that goes to, I believe, 5,000 rpm?

[@joewhitney4097]

Nice Work. 👍👍👍

[@mauserkk98]

Nice job .

[@AustNRail]

Put some wax in the end of those hex bolts and then they won’t fill with chips. To clean, use wax solvent and then plug in hex key. Easy.

[@THEEblindman]

Put a rubber plug in the socket hex hole . then pop it out when you need to remove the screw

[@LordPhobos6502]

Note to self: get working on that 4 dimensional commenting feature, for safety glasses 👍❤😎 I might need to borrow This Old Tony's lathe for that, it's got the time travel upgrade built-in.

[@axb8996]

Maybe 3D print a cap for the BHCS?

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Thanks for an interesting video.

[@masheroz]

What is the actual size of a #30 and #8 drill bit?

[@NS-no1li]

Use a tapered hex head and then fill the head with candle wax.. To remove is easy. Simply pop the wax plug..

[@carbide1968]

Why do you not have and use a air hose at the machine to blow off chips and holes?

[@Clough42]

I have one ordered. I'm reluctant to use air on a machine with no chip containment--especially with the squat rack right behind it. But I'll eventually want it.

[@flikflak24]

i feel like the part that you said right after you said it was a alu power was directly to me xD if thats the case then i feel honored if its bancked up then i dont feel as bad to see and know that it will be used like that ( but when its like almost fresh then it really hurts inside ) refrence to the X axis dont be so negative xD sorry the bad joke / pon ( kinda felt like tony there for a little bit xD ( sorry tony. love the style/fun you put into your video's ))

[@kylebracht]

Hey James! Coming from a garage workshop, any tips on how you keep from tracking chips into the house. I have little ones and I just have to clean up really well before going inside so chips don't end up under their feet. Thanks!

[@Clough42]

It doesn't really matter what I do. Some always end up in the house.

[@kylebracht]

@@Clough42 seems like that's my case also

[@routercnc9517]

@@Clough42 My wife sews and I find pins around the house so in my book we are quits !

[@Clough42]

I tested a new insert end mill in steel last night, and it shot .005"-thick bright blue chips eight feet in every direction. I think some containment is going to be a necessity.

[@gangleweed]

@@Clough42 Now you are getting wise........anything pertaining to a milling operation is sharp pointy chips.

[@bluedeath996]

It seems the divisions on the scale are 5um so the error should be at most 2.49um or 1 tenth and it should correct its position at each division so it shouldn't have any value you can't hit close enough for manual machining and the rigidity of your mill.

[@Clough42]

For sure it can get close enough. It still feels unsatisfying when I want x.0000 and the scale jumps from (x-1).9999 to x.0001. I have exactly this problem on my CNC mill, which has 5mm ballscrews.

[@routercnc9517]

@@Clough42 I have the answer - go metric ! Best regards from the UK 🇬🇧 which is the 100% metric. Apart from road signs. Oh and newborns which are discussed in pounds. And pints 🍺. OK so we are 63/64 ths metric.

[@joeldriver381]

I have the Shars 24" vernier calipers... Not sure they are are accurate but they do allow me to make comparison measurements and the price is nice.

[@ikbendusan]

12:55 EMI turning your screen blue? lol

[@Clough42]

Good eye.

[@roygrafton6322]

I see a power drawbar on your shopping list.

[@erewhonmuesli]

What's the magnetic stand you use on the DTI at around 19:20? I've got one of the cheap ebay specials, but I've not come across one with a fine adjuster like that before.

[@Clough42]

amzn.to/33FwerY

[@gangleweed]

@@Clough42 Nope.....Too expensive.......I just use a regular scribing block with a small dial indicator as it already has the fine adjustment.

[@newheartdanno]

Just put a small square of tape over the button head screw to keep chips and dirt out.

[@prototype3a]

Huh. mag base on a 1-2-3. That's a good trick.

[@reddcube]

Datums is correct according to Merriam-Webster.

[@vincentguttmann2231]

But on the other hand, Merriam-Webster also says that I can use "irregardless" as a stronger form of "regardless". Language isn't what is written in books, it's what we use. If we start using something else, MW would need to change that, because they are trying to catalogize our language.

[@Clough42]

Yeah. "Irregardless" used to bother me, until I realized I was "that guy" and let it go.

[@spehropefhany]

Not to be confused with "diddums".

[@cameronmccreary7697]

I wear safety glasses because I don't want chips in my eyeballs. Makes it hard to see things when I've got scratches on the eyeballs and they have to heal and I would have to go to the hospital to get them out under optics by a specialist. Wear the safety equipment; you have a lot less problems.

[@larrysmall3521]

How about a drop of silicone sealant in the screw heads while they are clean. When you need to remove them it should be easier to remove than a build up of chips and gunk.

[@somebodyelse6673]

Silicone sticks too well. It's a real pain to get out of a small cavity. Maybe hot glue?

[@HenningJohansen]

"What channel did you think you were watching?" Precision R Us?

[@robevans8555]

I think it's great.

[@masheroz]

I have that exact hand drill!

[@samvoelkel2046]

Interesting, as always.

[@piccilos]

Lufkin sells tape measures with inch (10ths) and metric on it. McMaster number 19805A83

[@Clough42]

That would be useful.

[@hamood1234fool]

Convert it to CNC already. How can you be a computer guy and work manually on a mill? Install a servo motor instead of stepper this time. It will be amazing.

[@EverettWilson]

It's nice to be able to turn the computer off when work's over and go do something else.

[@hamood1234fool]

@@EverettWilson I hope he does it. He can make many video parts machining stuff to fit these motor in.

[@Clough42]

The other factor is setup time. To do anything on the CNC mill takes a bunch of time at the computer figuring out the tool paths, workholding, and feeds and speeds. And if I mess anything up, I break something. I find myself putting off projects because of the stress of this process. Just throwing something in the vise and making a simple part is often much faster than modeling it first.

[@russterman1]

So we`ll change it to have the writing the right way up "Because Reasons". Sounds like Cool Hard Logic to me! Top Man :-)

[@JimWhitaker]

"A datum for each"? 🙂