Coil Spring Preperation

In this video I demonstatate the method I use to make blanks of spring steel. It is a time consuming process, so I usually make several blanks at a time. This isn't a necessary step, but it reliably produces consistent blanks. Having a blank ready to go, saves a lot of time when I need a new punch during a complex project.

[@SchysCraftCo.]

Very cool and unique trike. Very nice job. Hopefully you get great use out of them for many years to come. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Keep making. God bless.

[@TMatt007]

I've always used π d, but I love your measure and roll method. Keep it simple. I tend to over think everything. Thanks for the video.

[@AnvilPointsForge]

Cheers! Thanks for the comment.

[@johnjude2685]

Great job showing how to measure,I do like your whole video Thanks

[@cameronmccreary4758]

I'm disabled and I don't have a whole lot of time left on this planet. I buy my spring seal from places like Castle metals and other tool steel supply houses. I've done that, I've made steel Springs out of other Springs, it's a lot of work it's a lot of extra work I don't have to do.

[@roparzhlapprenti]

Great! Thanks so much. Just starting and never thought about using my vise to make a round bar square. +1 sub

[@GaryLollman]

I believe he used the vise just to straighten the round bar, not square it up.

[@muriellivermore2560]

Loved the moment of struggle with the tape measure. Relatable. Lol

[@felixreyes5111]

Lol!!

[@reneemills-mistretta790]

Good idea using the vise to true it.

[@AnvilPointsForge]

if your vise is cold, you can preheat it by clamping a hot piece of steel, when you're ready to straighten a piece, open the clamp and let the preheat bar fall to the floor.

[@paulorchard7960]

Very quick, but good! Dont blame the camera for liking the stump, I have a stump just like that one and its extremely attractive! I cannot stop staring at it!

[@hamidzareh2373]

You are a clever man

[@AnvilPointsForge]

Bare metal springs are available but it's more common to find them with some sort of coating. New videos should start in September.

[@danielkeal8795]

have you seen the fabric tape measure for sowing there not expensive and are very useful have a look on ebay I got 3 for £1.50 ($2ish)

[@wadesmith1968]

Nice video and you can't blame the camera, that is a fine looking stump. lol

[@AnvilPointsForge]

That stump is over 20years old.

[@cannibalholiday]

Gave me wood just looking at it.

[@philbimpson8758]

Nice. Peace and love from Liverpool England

[@cracklepych]

Can we use beach sand to annealing steel? It's damn hard to find vermiculite around here...😢

[@AnvilPointsForge]

It’s in the garden aisle with the soils or the pet aisle with the cat litter. You want something that is chemically inert, more or less, so it doesn’t react with the hot steal. Wood ash is another traditional material… you can make that. Beach sand seems like a bad choice.

[@Miguelo-jc2ym]

Que efectos produce la vermiculita a la forja, Saludos

[@waylandforge8704]

π d will give you the inside measurement of your circle and you'll be 1/2" short. For smithing purposes just take the diameter of the circle and x 3 it will give you close to the actual measurement to the centre of the material. Re the 11psi, you need to look at your setup. In an outfit like that your should be on about 3 to 5. Not being critical, just trying to help.

[@daviddiscusses9048]

The stump made me subscribe

[@AnvilPointsForge]

I think this is the only commenter to have noticed the note about "sand"!

[@verdigrissirgidrev4152]

I used to heat springs whole in my coal forge and straighten them as such, but in retrospection that was unnecessary wasteful and cumbersome. I very rarely need anything longer than a 40 cm section, could have saved a lot of coal by measuring and cutting like you demonstrated.

[@francobarone7437]

Hello mate, if instead of vermiculite I use perlite I will get the same results? Thanks for the tutorial, I work as a welder fabricator and blacksmithing is my top hobby.

[@AnvilPointsForge]

I don’t know. Vermiculite is fairly inert when heated, meaning it doesn’t react with the hot metal. Perlite has a melting point of 2000F which seems a bit low for this task. Best course is experimentation I’d reckon. Have fun!

[@bernardleighan3218]

I have a couple of cats, so I use kitty litter for this application. It works well.

[@donpayne4216]

I had to come watch a second time, I couldn't remember where you messed up on your measurement, I'd have made the same mistake as you...👍🏻

[@predator4151]

How is its fnished?

[@stryder751]

11 PSI??? You should look in to building a Dragon type forge. They only need about 1 PSI. They are easy to make and will save you a lot of $$$$ in Propane. Also they heat faster.

[@AnvilPointsForge]

Elevation and ambient temperature play a larger part of my propane consumption than the line pressure. Anyway, I'm please with the efficiency of this burner design for my location. Other designs I checked out would have been great if I lived at sea level, but I don't.

[@6969smurfy]

The Shop psi is not a good way to measure propane usage. Volume. I build a combination Forced air With a ribbon Burner on the end of it I drilled a 16th the diameter hole for the nipple. Took 15 psi and would not get enough gas to stay lite. 1/8 nipple works good at 4 psi.

[@mandyNdave]

After you turn it into a tool, do you do any heat treatment or do you leave it annealed?

[@AnvilPointsForge]

mandyNdave; The Heat treat I use is dependent on he purpose. A punch used for hot work doesn't necessarily need heat treat Also, heat treating a hot work tool is often a waste of time because working on hot metal will quickly spoil any temper you achieve. Cold work chisels should be heat treated. My general rule for tools is simple: The tool must be harder than the work piece.

[@mandyNdave]

Thanks! I am getting ready to make a hot punch from a coil spring and a ulock. I was thinking I'd just normalize the punch from red heat down to room in air, then temper to middle straw/brown so the shaft has decent hardness, knowing the point will cycle a bit. I'm not sure about the ulock as it's likely case hardened so that'll make for an interesting punch. Thanks again for your feedback. :)

[@AnvilPointsForge]

mandyNdave: I usually only temper the working end. The shaft and the striking end should remain soft so it doesn't explode in your hand or damage your hammer.

[@leviblackwood3258]

OMG thank you!

[@AnvilPointsForge]

Levi Blackwood, you're welcome.

[@anvilsbane]

Say what you like, I’d trust a blacksmith over an engineer any day. They are also OFTEN wrong.

[@gamernick1533]

Isn't that supposed to read "I'm a blacksmith, not an engineer... I can mine mine longer?" :P

[@kevinolivas6546]

Salvaje

[@damiferar1544]

9260...!!!!