Cold Climate Building Techniques & Concepts: furring in an outside wall

[@wills2262]

How I landed on this channel idk, but really interesting videos. Keep up the good work.

[@nikko97144]

Looks like the insulation practices are pretty similar to what we do in Norway. Great video 👍🏼

[@x-rayed7066]

goo work and thanks alot for the informations

[@treefarmer7740]

Wouldn't a double 2x4 wall with space between for a total wall of 12 inches with R19 in both cavities be cheaper and more efficient?

[@paulmaxwell8851]

Asolutely. This technique of using furring across studs is really just suitable for retrofits: you're attempting to improve the performance of an existing building. If you're talking about a new build, double-stud construction is about the most cost-effective answer you'll find. Anyone can nail 2x4s together, you can plan on whatever total wall thickness you desire, plus you get the added benefit of tremendous sound dampening. By the way, the space between inner and outer walls is also insulated, so a twelve inch wall insulated with blow-in cellulose, for example, comes in at about R46. That was cutting edge when my wife and designed our home fifteen years ago; today I'd probably aim for sixteen inch walls.

[@zenco1611]

@@paulmaxwell8851thanks for your insight

[@IlyaBenesch]

@@paulmaxwell8851 It all depends on what a contractor is willing to do. This particular contractor preferred to build in this manner and it met the client's needs. Insisiting that a contractor build a wall he doesn't prefer or feels will take his crew longer can sometimes be problematic. At the same time, I don't disagree that the a double 2x4 wall at 12" will be a more energy efficient wall. With double stud walls however, the challenge for us becomes how to install the vapor retarder well with minimal penetrations. This can be a quality control issue. The advantage of the furred in wall is that the vapor retarder is installed and sealed conventionally and all wiring is run on the warm side of the wall to minimize penetrations. If you have a method of consistently getting a quality vapor retarder install on a double stud wall, please share it.

[@kerrryschultz2904]

@@IlyaBenesch Various method. One way is to build your outer wall an roof to near lock up. Build your inner wall of 2 by 4 3/4 inch short and install plastic sheeting on the exterior side of the inner 2 by 4 wall with plastic overlapping the top and bottom plate so when stood up the sheet of plastic can overlap to the inside of the ceiling and then be tied into the ceiling plastic to ensure continuous continuity with the air seal. The reason to build it 3/4 of an inch shorter is so you can stand it up and then shore up the cavity with 3/4 inch material. On your window bays you can build for each window a framed buck that has a wrap of plastic all the way around that is also acoustically calked for air tightness.

[@ilyabenesch9469]

@@kerrryschultz2904 Yep...builders here do it on occasion that way too. Like all things it works great if done right. I was looking at an older place built this way last spring, however at the corners of the inner walls the builders failed to seal the overlaps in the poly properly. I was just doing a physical inspection and not a blower door with IR scan so it was an educated guess that the failure was either a tear in the poly or problems at the corner where the sheets met. Either way the leakage was occuring through the wall vapor retarder. In this case it was a 2x6 exterior wall, then 3-1/2" air space filled with batts and then a 2x4 wall with the vapor retarder on the cold side. Where it got interesting is the original builders didn't have a unifying plate capping and connecting the tops of the walls. Trusses were set resting on the double walls. The practice was to run a layer of 3/4" plywood was run across the tops of the walls in homes of this type (1980's build) but since this wall didn't cap/air seal the top of the space between the walls, it became a chimney for the air leakage through the vapor retarder. Lesson there for me was capping the double walls is cheap insurance since if an air leak through the wall assembly does occur, then stack effect up and out the gap at the top between the plates can really aggravate the problem. Lot's of frost/ice build up in the vent spaces over the eave walls -and this place had an HRV system. Actually, I had an inspector tell me of this issue occurring on a cellulose dense packed home recently as well - failure to cap/seal that top gap between the double wall top plates.. Getting a good system for sealing window and door openings will be important too. :). Thanks for the input.

[@brettd.cotten9987]

Moving to nh and the content you provide is great.... Thank you so much... You're videos are a huge help

[@johannvonvictornova4730]

gilford laconia

[@Willdoe09]

Would it be a good idea to install a rain screen before 1” ridged foam after all that install vynl siding ? Im thinking of doing that more for a wind brake.

[@JustJoe36]

Great insights!

[@T_157-40]

I would use SEGA or Zip system tape on miter corners after you take steps to reduce sharp edges to help protect 6mm plastic vapor barrier.

[@aldoogie824]

this is a fantastic detail. Considering doing the same regardless of climate, mainly to achieve airtightness / decrease penetrations.

[@kerrryschultz2904]

Very good advice. The only thing that changes is the climate you are in. If in a cold climate the vapour barrier is on the inside. In hot climates vapour control is toward the outside. Increased insulation ability greatly aids in the reducing both the heating and cooling load but requires a contolled ventilation system / heat exchanger.

[@cindyshaunmolyneaux809]

This is an excellent video and I appreciate the amount of time and attention to detail the builder spent on building and the explanation you provided. Would it be acceptable to use two layers of ROXUL insulation in the wall cavities, 1 1/2 Silver board between furring strips and plywood for the exterior? Also, can this wall technique be used to insulate the ceiling/attic? Thank you in advance.

[@cindyshaunmolyneaux809]

The home @Ilya Beneschill be built in Newfoundland Canada. My goal is to construct a very energy efficient home that is cost effective, comfortable and not worry about mold growth. The foundation will most likely be ICF and above grade walls will be 2x8 construction @24 inch centers. First choice is ROCKWOOL COMFORTBATT with a thickness of 7.25 inches (R28). I have a few choices for the 1 1/2 rigid insulation, Enerfoil R6 per inch, AMVIC building system SilveRboard (R7.5) or Owens Corning products R5 per inch. Canada's building code requires a 6mm vapour barrier on the warm side of the home. I have a few choices for the exterior sheathing, plywood, OSB, and ZIP panels. Any good practices for the ceiling / attic would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -Shaun

[@kevvor396]

Appreciate the videos, can u do some videos on installing window, doors, vinyl siding, etc? It's hard to find construction videos for us interior Alaskan. Is there any good resources in the interior for us DIY folks? Please help & thank u much

[@scottwebber652]

I did something similar 20 years ago. I put 1/2” pink on the entire inside envelope of my 3 story 4500’ place. Over a 6 mil vb n under the sr. My only regret is that I didn’t do 2” I didn’t do any furring but thick foam may work out better. Only thing is the thermal bridge continues w/the furring. I totally support the ability for the elec boxes n the backing for towel bars etc. I mounted grab bars on my one piece tub to backing before tub install. If I build again I would go w/double 2x4 walls with all the goodies n those r-11 windows as that will be ur next issue because that area becomes the coldest thus condensation. N air tite of course with the air exchanger.

[@electricamir248]

Great video. At 12:25 you say you don't want to add more than 1/3 of the insulation in front of the vapor barrier, but you also said you are doubling the insulation with the foam board. Wouldn't that be half?

[@ae1ae2]

I think that was referring to the studs specifically, which are about R-1 per inch (so about R-8 for those 8-inch studs), whereas the stud bays have about an R-24. That said, this is an interesting point because it does highlight that there are vertical cold bands along the studs where there might still be some condensation. My guess is that it would be limited enough that it's unlikely to cause problems.

[@vaultsjan]

Using U-wert or similar, having OSB outside of insulation in cold climate, you are likely to get moisture problems. In cold climate it should be good practice to have impermable materials inside and permable on outside.

[@alexandermaciag377]

Good detail information and great advice to take in consideration many of the things for each ones needs ., but once you drywall, then you are limited to where you can nail and screw into. I suggest looking into areas like kitchens or where changes may come in for unlimited areas to nail or screw into., is to use 1/2 plywood after the fur strips. Just check make sure it will not bring moisture behind the ply or and behind the drywall since I have not used this method. There are many factors to consider from where you live, where and how many windows, doors are on a wall location. Your heating and cooling systems, floor levels apply, and last your exteriors insulated vapor barrier system correctly done or exteror is not insulated below, above, and behind the brick. Open to suggests to moisture proof from mold and dry rot. Ret. Lic. Contractor.

[@johnford5568]

Guess that air exchangers are needed in all new air tight construction and for indoor humidity control. Here is Louisiana with a ranch house just seal the best you can and let the missed spots cover the air exchange part. Worst bill 2k foot home is about 100 a month in January. Curious what the monthly heating bill for an average well insulated home in Fairbanks is?

[@paulmaxwell8851]

My 1080 sq. ft. super-insulated home in central British Columbia has only a small wood cookstove for heat, plus some solar gain through triple-glazed windows. We burn 1 1/2 cords of pine/spruce/aspen in a year. That's an entire year! My neighbours burn 8-10 cords of firewood a year and they are starting to feel too old to keep doing this much longer. Insulation is not sexy. But it's the best money you'll ever spend!

[@Whosurdaddy71]

Chalk line for furring? Is this 1970? Laser levels are cheap 😂

[@victorl.6128]

Common convention says to insulate from the out side, however you have mitigated the vapor transfer into the stud cavity but I do worry about moisture getting behind the drywall and condensing on the vapor barrier. Is the foam board EPS or XPS ?Great videos and website by the way, I reference the CCHRC to colleagues. clients and for info purposes often. Keep it up . Thank you

[@johnford5568]

Just a guess but the vapor barrier at that location, offset from outside by R30, should not be that cold and if the indoor humidity is kept reasonable, that surface should not get anywhere near any dewpoint.

[@canonicaltom]

@@johnford5568 If the indoor humidity is kept reasonable, the vapor barrier isn't necessary.

[@johnford5568]

@@canonicaltom A vapor barrier has nothing to do with indoor humidiry levels, it helps keep absorptive materials from getting wet which nullifies the insulation value.

[@canonicaltom]

@@johnford5568 The dew point is proportional to RH. If the wall cavity is kept above the dew point, condensation won't happen in there, making a vapor barrier unnecessary. It is still important to have a vapor retarder and a tight air barrier of course.

[@kerrryschultz2904]

@@canonicaltom The dew point is related to the temperature. Cold air holds much less water at 35 degree's than 70 degree air. Your absolutely right about the importance of a properly sealed air barrier.

[@kirill__kirill]

What are you talking about a 8:45? Для чего это отверстие, кто понял, переведите пожалуйста и для чего деревянная доска поперёк в подоконной зоне дальше на видео?

[@Rwongv]

Thank you for the information

[@jonathanmilton9753]

Can this be used in the south?

[@electricamir248]

I believe in the south, warmer climate you would have vapor barrier on the exterior side.

[@maksi08maks3]

What is the usual life of these wooden houses. We have average winter temperature of minus 15-20 degree celcius. But as we are not aware of wooden houses our forefathers used to build clay houses but these days everyone is building concrete houses but those are fuel guzzlers and also the bathroom and toilet fails in winters

[@maxyoung2307]

Kingspan has this insulated plasterboard products, i think you may be interested.

[@elizabethvillalobos4504]

Who is the local contractor

[@786otto]

Nice video

[@celestialdream49]

Never thought of "standard" and 2x6 wall going together... I've always thought 2x4 was more "standard". Good video, really good insulating details. Thanks :)

[@jeromedodd6837]

I would rather build with mass such as adobe in alaska.

[@kerrryschultz2904]

Mass has it's place in its ability to store heat and moderate temperature. But in cold climates if you have 6 months of cold, then no amount of mass will keep you warm unless it is say like a sand battery that Polar Nights Energy talk about and then you have to worry about overheating etc. A very good combination in say Alaska would be a super insulated structure combined with a rocket mass stove or a Russian mass heater. The Russian heater would not provide the extreme heat that the barrel from a rocket mass heater produces but the Russian heater would provide slow, steady heat for hours. The rocket mass heater would do the same with more focus on the wood firing.

[@cooper68ns]

Plastic electric boxs .

[@rawushzafar2735]

hahaha y u didnt record videos during making this home and now u came and explaining in this way. practically was better

[@nikko97144]

No

[@nub9688]

These walls cannot even stop projectiles coming outta pellet gun, they are a joke.