Colorful 3D Prints on a Single Extruder Printer // Artistic Phone Cases

[@eugenes9751]

If you hit the epoxy with a heat gun, it'll pop any bubbles and thin it out so it flows better and lays flatter.

[@make.anything]

Thanks good advice. This stuff was also 3 years old so I wonder if that made it less viscous

[@eugenes9751]

@EdwinPlayzYT A vacuum chamber will cause the epoxy to flow into the PLA, there's probably going to be some incompatibilities. But might be worth a try, alsom, pressure chambers work better at getting rid of bubbles for epoxy

[@Glacire1990]

EdwinPlayzYT Peter brown just did a pretty cool comparison on a vacuum vs pressure chamber

[@spookyseafood7682]

Make Anything also blow torch

[@spookyseafood7682]

EdwinPlayzYT some people don’t have enough money for it

[@tommycarlier9617]

Love the Starry Night case!

[@Grubbet]

Why this channel doesn't have over 1 million subs, is just baffling. One of my favourite channels ever. and i don't even 3D print.

[@silberh5672]

Same xD

[@miked3044]

probably should.

[@hippolytemenestreau5146]

You definitely have amazing ideas. But on top of that you always manage to achieve it in a very rigorous way. Love what you're doing, a true source of inspiration and motivation

[@zalbercook]

There's no way he thought of this on his own was obviously added imput from other 3D printing maker

[@jespersimons5508]

This is such a cool way to print multicolored parts!

[@theabhominal8131]

did some street art with Keith Haring back in the early 80's love seeing him get some mention his art and the way he did it was simply sick..

[@marcocammozzo7553]

You could integrate glow in the dark filament to make the starry night or similar designs even more unique!

[@uranium_donut]

FINALLY someone made a case for the OP6, I'm trying for one month to create a case for this phone because there is not a single one online AND THEN this Legend comes around Congrats, you are the first one, thank you

[@smoothon]

These are really great cases! If you apply multiple thinner coats of the XTC-3D, you will get a smoother surface.

[@itsHanibee]

Great content on your channel!

[@swankscabinet1625]

When reading the comment I noticed the product you mentioned sounds like drugs in 3D when read aloud lmao

[@matthewlaberge]

I’ve been 3D printing since 2006 and never once have I see this technique or even thought of something similar. You never cease to amaze me Devin!

[@TheMidnightSmith]

A couple things, you need to be sure your bed is super level for this. Also, in simplify3d you can choose to "start printing at height" under advanced options. I do this rather than an m600 command to swap colors at a different height. Also, for better export from illustrator, use the pathfinder tool and either merge, or combine, then flatten image before export. I learned the hard way just like you showed with the duplicate lines lol.

[@thatsalotofdux3774]

TheMidnightSmith I liked because no else did lmao

[@Amy_Dunn]

That glossy finish was oddly satisfying. Lol that would be awesome with a “cobalt blue China” pattern so it looks like you have a ceramic phone case. Edit: or a chintz tile pattern

[@markuskrakowski1022]

I love how you represent 3d printing as an art medium, instead of a cheap excuse to sell stuff

[@aeaeaeaeoaeaeaeaeae]

Because it isn't a cheap excuse to sell stuff.

[@CRIZS_CREATIONS]

This video was 4yrs ago, That Said you can just put painting tape over the phone case for 3D scanning, secondly its easier to wrap the case and print a base color cover

[@luckgrip252]

This is what i've had in thoughts. I knew that there's a solution on how to print different colors on single extrusion printers, but didn't think of how to do that. Now i see how that i spossible! This is Awesome!! Thanks man for your tutorial!

[@Adamroable]

In illustrator - use the Image Trace tool to get your vectors. In the Trace window you could set the number of colors to match how many different filaments you have. You can use the Make Shape tool to be sure your vectors are closed. An easier way may be do the Outlines option of Pathfinder (you'll have to reapply the stroke to the path afterwards), but that may still need some tweaking.

[@Rubikorigami]

*Devin* : Swoosh marks, for lack of a better term *me, an intellectual* : m o t i o n l i n e s

[@breadstick4375]

Me, a viewer of Rick and Morty: *_MOVEMENT MARKS_*

[@Throneos]

Weird flex but ok

[@patrick1532]

@David I think/hope this was sarcasm

[@patrick1532]

@David Oh I've been there extensively, I'm just wondering why this has so many upvotes if it isn't sarcasm

[@hecko-yes]

runny lineys

[@tylermadison9454]

I've been using a similar method for some time now, and have some input that might make it a little easier to pull off. For the different colored sections, I made custom ending gcode for my i3 mega in S3D that moved the printhead out of the way, but didn't turn off the motors or heatbed, and custom starting code that didn't calibrate each time. This way I didn't have to be babysitting the printer for each color switch. Since the motors don't turn off there's no issue of things getting misaligned and since the bed stays on there's no issue of the print separating from the bed. For printers compatible with the M600 command, I just use multiple processes and manually input the M600 command in the gcode in the correct spots. Thank you for showing how to hide models in F360 and align to origin in S3D. This will make my workflow so much easier. I've been turning off automatic bed placement and importing every detail as a separate model. That gets a little hard to manage when you are printing 8 of the same part that each have 50+ STL files...

[@Tomaskom]

Instead of tracing everything manually, you could simply use Inkscape and do Path -> Trace Bitmap, ideally with Multiple scana -> colours option, set number of colours, disable stack scans and hit Ok. Then just ungroup the different colour traces and you're good to go! Great idea with preprinting the first layer, will need to try that ;)

[@johnromberg]

Not to take anything from the awesomeness of the technique, but if you're going to slather it in epoxy you might as well just print an insert on paper and stick it on the back? Fantastic work, as always, love ya!

[@benbirch2980]

Hey Devin, I'm getting my first 3D printer this year, andI wanted to thank you, you were the one who started my interest in 3D printing for Art and Design, and now I'll be using it for University work. Cheers, loved the video.

[@Arek_R.]

Hey that's actually excellent way to have some text on top of my electronics project cases without making it weak or loosing flat surface!

[@0shizuo0]

Can you do a working circuit board , with copper filament using this technique? Or even mixture flexible filament with hard filament to create mechanical parts with hinges even a flexible triangular mesh

[@chebhou]

The stary night case must have been a nightmare to do.

[@make.anything]

Yes... Yes it was

[@Fighter_Builder]

@@make.anything Yeah, I can imagine... :/ I still wanna attempt that, though; I think it would be an awesome gift for my mom. Sadly, it's a bit too late to do it for a christmas present, but maybe I could do it in time for her birthday next year 🙂

[@benjamingagneux5412]

Make Anything can you give the DXF file ?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Stary nightmare

[@evieatarax]

I'd recommend Affinity Designer on a budget. It's only $50 (and I think it's on sale, so even cheaper) and it's as powerful as Illustrator. It's no subscription so it ends up being so much cheaper

[@BenjiCheirif]

Amazing! So cool! 2 tips for you 1. You can draw the splines on in fusion by bringing in the image on the background. 2. You can take out the end gcode line for the bed to cool down. That way it stays heated.

[@Cassiusassius]

Normally I watch 10 videos of a KZbin before I decide to sub, but after 3 I definitely knew I wanted to! Keep doing you, dude 😊

[@3dprinting221]

Wow, I have watched many 3d printing channels in the past week (cause that's when I got my printer) but this is the first one I have commented on, well done dude, really clever

[@Dragyyn]

I'm also new, and this channel is probably my favorite, since I have already watched other channels for fixing the printer

[@matthewstout7974]

This is really awesome. As a way to seal at the end I wonder if you could do a hydrodip with a clear sealant ... maybe do a few dips?

[@wolfblade]

Once again you blew my mind! I was totally expecting for this to be some new palette like hardware and it is just an amazing “hack”. Thanks for the inspiration! I am going to try this on a pop socket that I previously used the pause on layer method. This will keep the layer flat and make the pop socket last longer.

[@Festivaljunkie]

"You can *always* get crazy with it." love it man!!

[@mikefromwa]

Okay, that is super cool, hands down one of the most creative 3D printing techniques I've ever seen. And the results are absolutely amazing!

[@themechanic6151]

Wow. I was wondering how you did it. I thought you printed out each bit one at a time and then glued them on later. But your way is insane. I love it. I always look forward to your videos.

[@agepbiz]

This is awesome! They came out much better than I would ever have guessed

[@aaronfraser5428]

I don’t understand how you’ve only got 350k subscribers, this is one of the best channels I’ve ever seen and you seem like such a down to earth person

[@klschofield71]

WOW Devin, you've really outdone yourself, as usual, with this unique, interesting, and dare I say...oh yes, I dare...fascinating way of utilizing 3D printing. Thanks for sharing and may you and yours have a very Happy Thanksgiving.

[@arrowstheorem1881]

I am thankful for the existence of this channel

[@paranoiarpincess]

Starry Night is my *FAVOURITE* painting! Thanks for showcasing this technique with it. ♡ Edit: the sky is the limit with this technique! You could make all kinds of art pieces like this! That's SO AWESOME!!!

[@johnshaw7107]

Great and innovative video. Very unique and instructive. Even though my Palette2pro should arrive in about a week, I found this video very instructive on design approaches and that knowledge will be a great benefit. Thanks for continually pushing the limits and explaining it clearly.

[@TheNitroG1]

actually it occurs to me you could do this with any flat layer. so for instance you could print a couple clear layers followed by graphics so that it's behind a translucent barrier ect. but you would have to make a solid layer or two before you printed the artwork. however that does mean you could color print two flat sides of an object so long as they were perfectly level. but it's a lot more work in the slicer software making that work i'm sure.

[@TheNitroG1]

oh another thing if you want more then 2 layers you can do that too. just move the model off the bed by .2 after completing all of the models for the first two layers. then do it again. this will help with glow in the dark things I would think.

[@TheNitroG1]

or another thought make it as thick as you want then just print .2 mm of the layers at a time...full color lithographs anyone?

[@TheNitroG1]

oh I guess I should point out for anyone wondering you can use the advanced tab start and stop print features to accomplish this.

[@jakromm]

I think you may be able to use this technique all on the same layer height. In CURA you could try enabling "Enable Retraction" (retracts when moving over non printed area, which would be any time it may contact your other colors). "Z Hop When Retracted" (This will move the nozzle up out of the way to not collide with the other colors). I haven't tried this myself, but in theory it should work. You may also need to try "Retract Before Outer Wall" , and uncheck "Infill before walls" to help force the retraction and hopping.

[@thatisjake]

I love those "swoosh bodys" xD

[@ntx9design392]

This technique is very cool. Definitly going to give it a try. Seems like a good way to transition from my current machine to a multi filament machine like the new M3D quad

[@ettaz]

This reminds me of pancake art 😊

[@E1nsty]

Same energy, really.

[@brandong.8494]

Exactly!

[@samdazliammurfitt1545]

yes

[@floofyboi3112]

give this guy a medal!!

[@Spenat1k]

Wow just wow... One of Best 3d chanel, unique technics and still something new. Big thumbs up Devin

[@NgocLe-1711]

I just realized that your 3D printer has googly eye It looks super cute I LOVE IT!!!!

[@hippocks146]

Amazing! Just after you flipped over the first one I actually said wow out loud. Very well done mate. Great print.

[@stephenbarlin2314]

Wow a great idea to make serious labels for front panels of my electronic projects.

[@brandong.5514]

I have to admit, I got lost during the tutorial so i skipped ahead to where it actually printed and I know I can replicate it with my own methods. Thanks for the video man, going to try this out tomorrow with my logo.

[@garthhowe297]

Good grief, your pool of talent is endless. Good going!

[@scottpope7835]

I had an idea for custom drink coasters that this technique would be perfect for. I could probably print 4 at a time on my print bed to save time. This would also be useful if you wanted to print a multicolor logo on signage.

[@BakeBakePi]

That's such a cool technique! I love the Van Gogh case!

[@everyoneindhaka]

this is the single most magnificent thing i have seen today. bravo!!

[@ethanh2790]

I would have never have thought of this awesome concept

[@viperthesniper5809]

thanks for teaching pepole 3d printing by the way i love the eyes on the extruder and maybe try a moral

[@redotix9952]

amazing! I can even speed up the process with dual extruders. I had an idea like this for a while but I never thought it would work this perfectly. Thank you

[@jyln.n]

can you make a case with interchangeable backplate designs?That would be cool!

[@angelblack4479]

YOUR PHONE CASES ARE AMAZINGGG AND THANKS FOR THE AMAZING STEP BY STEPS VIDEOSSSS

[@andrewrobotbuilder]

I'm blown away :O love the experimentation happening here

[@sahara0370]

I don’t have a 3d printer or understand a lot of the video but i still enjoy watching your videos

[@MakerFarmNL]

Yes! I second that: Ode to the Make Anything and RCLifeOn channels for their original and generous content!!! Thank you both very much for your effort, time and creativity!!

[@RikkTheGaijin]

Perfect timing, as I am designing an iPhone case for my wife for Christmas. Amazing video.

[@moth.monster]

That's a great design with the Keith Haring stuff, I bet plenty of people would love to have one like that. Might try this out!

[@barmetler]

Thank you Devin, very cool. I think if you heat up the epoxy, it flows better and creates a smoother surface!

[@DALILOMODIY]

great concept!

[@mannyt214]

This one video here is like the keys to the kingdom. Thank you so much!

[@fazalansari6413]

I am a big fan of yours. Your 3D printing techniques are so new and exciting.

15:45 Thumbs up for pronouncing Van Gogh correctly (also for that awesome technique you shared)

[@KiR_3d]

Hi! I want to share my experience for the case from 6:20 It's far easier to just import a picture into InkScape and convert it to vectors (using one of two given processes) then save to .svg After that the quickest way to import properly and extrude into any mesh is to work with Blender 3d. It has Import SVG plugin that imports svg files quickly and without issues. I've tested only a b/w picture but the success was quick and 100% without any "selection hussle" I see in your video. Before going to Blender I've tried to import .dxf in SolidWorks, did that... but extruding properly was impossible although there was not a very hard case. It just couldn't select proper vector loops when I've picked them. Seems that SW can't work with design issues (IDK about new, 2016 installed). Tried to extrude at least some parts that I was able to select properly... and that freezing nightmare started. Unbearable! Imported in Blender, converted paths to mesh (there is a comand which can be found by hitting "space" and typing "convert" in the search line), made an extrusion - looks fine. Then a main body (not complex yet but it will work too) was intersected by Boolean modifier with my mesh (that was paths previously). It works! Just one quirk - Boolean doesn like if top faces of these meshes are in the exactly same height. It must be a little bit higher (you can "G" then "z", then 0.001 and it will be right there). I could make a tut. but there are pretty much of them in YT.

[@runforitman]

10:15 I don’t know why I can’t see it on your version But instead of using that right click save to STL There should be a button up top that says “make” where you can select a body and turn it into an STL That’d be a lot easier for you I’m not sure why you don’t have it yet It’s in the version of Fusion 360 that I use so idk

[@scottmarshall6766]

Incredible technique, and execution - you put the art in the automation. I've got to try this one. There's a lot of effects worth trying with the range of filaments available and this technique. Here's a few that come to mind: A single line drawing in a metal filled filament on a dark background, like gold on black would be sharp. Pastel Blue with metallic silver and black for a Turquoise/silver jewelry look. Brown on a wood filled background for a woodburned effect, and Bronze on wood background for a wire inlay look. Simulated mosaic tile or stained glass would likely work well also. I think you may have planted a seed with this that could well become a new art form. I'm not much of an artist, but I like using technology to do the 'heavy lifting' art and using techniques like this to get nice looking results.

[@Rouverius]

Wow. That is amazing. I want to try my own now. Biggest challenge is what to start making first. Thanks!

[@josuebetancourt9527]

6:40 there's a sketch checker add for fusion on it's add one store that tells you what's wrong and how to fix it

[@deanallenjones]

wow THANK YOU. You have just managed to make my wife intreasted in having a go at 3d Printing somthing!

[@kindkyle6766]

Could you try and mix pla and tpu to make a rigid case that stretches around the phone better?

[@dewexdewex]

Well, they turned out amazingly well. What an inspiration. Many thanks.

[@aphexdelrey]

I have been recently binge watching your channel and i love it! Keep up the amazing work! Happy Thanksgiving!😄❤

[@make.anything]

Thanks :)

[@DJKnarnia]

I find it interesting that you've essentially recreated multicolor block printing with this process.

[@doxshift6727]

This technique is amazing! I would love to see what you come up with for other uses other than phone cases

[@ndac6324]

Is there any way to align the origins of parts in Cura like you have in Simplify3D?

[@ztrek2000]

Yeah just load all of the models into Cura then right click on one of them and you'll see the options you need

[@SoloBrainCell]

Did you figure it out ?

[@samuelhightower3871]

"You can always get crazy with it". Love the tutorial!

[@TheLarWal]

This is a great technique. A little more work, but man it looks good and no purge block

[@punishedprops]

Dude that is so clever! =D

[@josephabady609]

You shoud try the AIO robotics 3D pen. I have been using this pen for more than a year, it is a VERY good pen

[@TheAIKnowledgeHub]

So at 10:30 you did the hard method at exporting as stl. Just use the light bulbs to hide what you don't want.

[@thomaswiley666]

Subscribed! Thanks. Now I think I'll try color filters on Photoshop to as different layers then export the layers as DXF or even try an STL export.

[@brandonsaffell4100]

This is a really neat process. It's only a little more work that using a multi color printer. Assuming you can get great first layer adhesion.

[@maxdgac]

I can't believe that people dislike the video, hey man, that was an amazing work, you let me without words....keep going an fantastic channel !!!

[@connorlewis2819]

Dude! This is absolutely amazing. You're always taking ome step further than everyone else, and this in my opinion is the best one!

[@elmariachi5133]

Hey! Did you think about doing these with flexible filament? So you could attach them to any surface, including 3D prints..

[@reh3dzone]

Absolutely lovin' it! Have you tried using a flexible filament? I would love to see that!

[@portcityengineering]

A quick tip we use to help scan black surfaces is spraying dry shampoo or even foot spray it will leave a white residue that easily cleans off after.

[@thinkingforsometime]

You could print a cube. You could unfold the faces of the cube leaving them connected. Then the faces could be printed in your color switching technique. Assembly would be satisfying. I think there's been videos of assembling toy robots that were printed flat and folded into a final shape.

[@vviii670]

This makes me interest to get a 3d printer. The skill looks so creative!! Thank you for your tutorial!! 👍👍👍

[@RoamGaming]

starting working on one for me before the video even finished playing. great idea and great project for the holiday weekends!

[@emrose3308]

This is really cool! I'd have never thought about this as a thing you could do

[@thishadowithin]

Really, really impressive! Now, if you can just do this with the entire case I'd be even more impressed.

[@FilamentFriday]

Did you offset the final case to print on top of the designs or did it just melt into the design already printed on the bed?

[@make.anything]

The outline is at the same base layer as the other colors, but the backing of the case is printing above the other colors. The printer 'thinks' it's bridging when it is in fact printing on the other colors.

[@squat224]

I did something similarish, I wanted a sort of two tone print and just paused mid print to change the filament, which did work and I'm sure that's a really common way to do such things but it was a new idea for me lol. This is just another level of cool. I'd love to see more uses for this, as I'm not much of a modeler, and rarely are there easy to find files for the phones I have.