Comparing 12 Nickel Azo Yellow Watercolors - Colossal Color Showdown S3, Ep. 11

[@UraniaOfTheGalaxy]

I have Sennelier Yellow Lake and I love it. Rewets beautifully and it's a great mixer. Really the only yellow mixer I need on my palette.

[@maryannprzybycien2013]

My favorite yellow. I have the Da Vinci and I absolutely love it! 😊

[@brigitteitg]

I have the Schmincke version and it’s my favourite yellow. It’s so versatile, ranging between Lemon Yellow and Yellow Ochre. I also recently got the QOR one but haven’t really used it enough. It seems much darker and a bit more golden than the one from Schmincke.

[@stas61690]

I love Nickel Azo Yellow so this was a fun one for me! Thanks!

[@a.cornelia]

So interesting to see the differences across brands! I have PY 150 in Schmincke, Roman Szmal, Daniel Smith, QOR and Sennelier. It’s my all-time favorite yellow and while I have quite a few other yellow pigments, I reach for this one nearly 100% of the time 😅

[@hershelroswell]

i love nickel azo yellow so much but i wasn't sure which one to spring for after i use up my mission gold tube. love these videos so much - they're always incredibly helpful, and your voice is very soothing!

[@lightwavz]

This is one of my favorite pigments. Loved the comparisons! I own the M Graham, Mission Gold, and Qor and the M Graham is my fave.

[@jessicabaca5186]

Thanks for doing these and especially that you go by pigment number rather than name. I have had W&N's transparent yellow on my list but just now realized I in fact already have it in my Daniel Smith one.

[@JestemGlonojadem]

Regarding MaimeriBlu: seeing them underperform in these showdowns honestly breaks my heart because it's one of my top 3 personal favourite brands. I prefer them over Daniel Smith or Schmincke. Here's the catch, though - I use their tubes! Their tube colours are very strong, luminous and have a CRAZY flow. They use dark brown gum arabic, but it doesn't affect the paints' cleanliness as far as I can tell. They dry nice and sturdy, but are easy to rewet. They tend to stay wet on paper longer vs other brands. They don't bubble for me at all, but I paint small. Maybe they would in bigger and more watery washes? I'll test that out!

[@hannahthufvesson]

Love seeing all of these side by side! It's an amazing pigment! 🥰

[@luckysmokerings666]

Nickel Azo Yellow is one of my favorite colors - so far my favorite is Daniel Smith's but I have only been able to try a few brands. Cool to see what some of the other options look like!

[@valasafantastic1055]

I have the M. graham and LOVE it! It is the single best mixing colour to make realistic plant greens. I made two versions of a 'mother' or 'base' plant green. A more golden and a more green variant. Using this and pg7 (Pthalo green). It has been so amazing. I have painted way more plants and been happier with the results! Its easy to add touches of turquoise, blue, other greens or yellows to make every plant leaf tone! It is worth mixing up as a mother colour in an empty full pan for sure! I can really advise this. I'm sure any Nickle Azo yellow featured hear would work great. The tone of pg7 i ended up using (after doing many tests) is middle so not to bluish or yellowish. You can also acheive this by mixing Pg7 (Blue shade) and pg 36 (yellow shade)

[@tortillawrap6955]

oooh tnx for this!! so useful:)

[@RoryP22]

I have the M. Graham too and I love it. I'm mystified by the streakiness and uneven look of her swatch as I've never experienced it with my tube.

[@valasafantastic1055]

@@RoryP22 Most likely the paper and technique used to make the swatch. Testing intentionally for streakiness in the 'worst case scenario'. I also don't seem to have a streaky issue with mine but everything really varies with the paper. Having said that I constantly 'force' even the cheapest most unsuitable papers to be painted on and figure out techniques to get the best results anyway.

[@reneaclark7689]

I have been using white nights indian yellow since I started painting and I love it. It is interesting you had trouble rewetting it, I have never had that issue, in fact getting it to dry on the pallette can be challenging. I have since tried daniel smith, sennelier, schmincke, winsor and newton, qor, m graham, da vinci and roman schmal. It is my overall favorite yellow. The only one that I did/don't like wa the Qor, it was gloopy and hard to rewet, when painting with it, it was super streaky. Py150 is the best mixing yellow as it can lean more warm or cool depending on saturation. Eta: White Nights is a professional brand, they also have a couple levels of student grade paint as well. If you are trying out the brand may I recommend their pb28 cobalt turquoise, pg8 green and pr81 rose. Rose is not completely light fast but it is so beautiful, only sennelier have this pigment, but it is not as pretty. Thier pg8 is one of the only ones on the market, it is such a dark rich green.

[@CherryIceLion]

I haven’t experienced that kind of streaky overlay on the QOR - I find it’s a lovely glazing colour! I am working on cotton, though, and I generally glaze at a mid tone or wash intensity, especially with the pigment load in the QOR. Interesting how little things can change the result. PY150 is an absolute staple in my palette. I primarily do landscapes and it’s an ideal mixing yellow for me, especially with the tonal range it has. Mixes a wide variety of lovely greens, as well as interesting oranges and earth tones. It adds a glow I just don’t get with anything else.

[@kimesch9698]

Love these comparison videos. Thank you!

[@loganhughes7635]

I use Mission Gold (I’m in the US and didn’t find it that expensive - maybe I got it on Jackson’s?) I like it a lot! But that glazing has made me want to switch to Daniel Smith or Winsor Newton. I agree this is a super useful color. Wonderful for mixing greens or painting sun rays.

[@renmuffett]

In this pigment, M Grahams pigment load is so high, it would need more water to dilute it to equal strength as the others. Its usually the pigment load that makes any paint more opaque. As for Sennelier, mine is a little grainy which tells me its not as finely ground as it should be. That usually will sit on the surface. Thanks for sharing.

[@mnap1595]

I agree regarding the pigment chunks in Sennelier, as this has been my experience with paints from other brands (e.g. Winsor & Newton Cotman, my first set). I attributed it to poorly ground pigments or mixing with the binder (kind of like flour & water when done improperly). Often, I could see it in the palette before painting. Stirring and grinding with my brush usually fixed it but it was very annoying. I've not had this experience since with any professional grade paints.

[@meh.5050]

Thank you for the vid. Nickel Azo yellow is one of my fav watercolour pigment. Are you going to be reviewing new Michael Harding watercolours by any chance. Bought some and they are really lovely and highly pigmented after they dry in the pan.

[@crystalinedreams6039]

my fav yellow. :) interesting that there seemed to be such difference between brands in the color itself, i have py150 in most of the brands i have but haven't noticed it, will have to do a test. have a great halloween.

[@martinanelsonartandpsychol6478]

thank you for the video! I have one question. Couldn’t it be that the difference in policing is also due to the difference in pigmentation? The Qor and the MGrahm colors here are very pigmented. When they are more diluted they also glaze much better. while other brands don’t seem as pigmented from the start.

[@sharihofmann674]

I'm so glad you did this video! I always learn so much from you! I've been needing to do some research on yellows, and had been toying with trying a Nickle Azo yellow. Then I saw that it is the current version of "Transparent Yellow" for W&N. I HATE that color! 🤣🤣🤣 When W&N changed their Transparent Yellow from PY97 (many many years ago) to PY150, I hated it so much, I threw out an entire tube - brand new. I had never done that before. (I'm very cheap!) So now I know that I don't ever need to buy Nickle Azo Yellow. From any manufacturer. EVER. 🙂 Thank you!

[@chrismitchell6001]

Just bought the Da Vinci one. Before watching. But should still be great very affordable here in US.

[@Miastrong930]

That funny color which becomes beautiful when you add water.

[@kristinacramer199]

Love this color! However I have a half pan of Rembrandt Aureoline and it says it PY40. The color chart on Jackson's also says it's PY40. Wondering if they changed the color or if the tube is a different pigment?

[@mateusbottaro8728]

My whithe nights indian yellow (tube) rewets very easily, actually it haven't sat in 4 months (I live in the extreme south of Brazil

[@irritatedlibrarian9057]

I'm surprised you found the White Nights one hard to rewet. Mine rewets so easily.

[@michemman]

Dr Kano, Bit confused. Is the Rembrandt Aureolin lightfast? What is the pigment number that goes grey as fugitive? Is PY150 lightfast, by DS, as this is the one I own a lot of? Love it. Thanks for the top video xx In kindred spirit, Eliza Australia xx

[@vaelyane]

May I respond? :D The Aureolin pigment you're thinking of is PY40, also known as Cobalt Yellow! It fades quite dramatically across watercolour brands, from what I've read. As far as I'm aware, Nickel Azo Yellow PY150 is a reliably lightfast pigment, so your DS PY150 should be lightfast too. Rembrandt's Aureoline, made with PY150, is most likely lightfast as well. About brands calling their PY150 "Aureolin(e)"... Cobalts are costly, and PY40 fades. This pigment is not a great investment for a brand, as more and more people are aware of how fugitive it is, and would rather buy a more durable colour. While I'm not surprised to see brands selling other pigments under that name, I'm annoyed that they didn't name their versions "Aureolin(e) Hue" instead of just "Aureolin(e)", to let people know they're not selling the original problem pigment. It does indeed make things more confusing!

[@michemman]

@@vaelyane ah so true. Thanks for your help. Interesting that it is a cobalt, none of the other cobalts are fugitive. Now fading is one thing, but grey, is just so wrong. Is PY150 that what they used to call Indian yellow, fed mangoes to cows? I am getting all mixed up. lol

[@vaelyane]

@@michemman According to artiscreation (a website I use to quickly find pigment information), the original Indian Yellow pigment people assume was produced from cow urine is referred to as "NY20" (I believe "N" indicates a natural pigment, Natural Yellow 20). I don't think NY20 is available anywhere anymore, thankfully. PY150 is synthetic and has been used as a hue for many different yellows over the years, possibly including Indian Yellow. They're different pigments, however. :)

[@michemman]

@@vaelyane Thank you Vaelyane. Have fun, Paint more! Eliza Australia 3rd November 2022, 12:30am

[@awatercolourist]

Not first! 😂

[@MartinScharfe]

Why do the watercolor-makers print colours, completely different from the content, on the tubes? World would be easier with proper colours on the label.