Concrete dry pour to make a new concrete pad for the front of my shed

Using the dry pour method to create a concrete pad for the front of my shed. Definitely a different experience from using traditional wet mixed and poured concrete. No rebar or wire mesh used, but its on top of a compacted gravel base. The pad is 69"x40"x3.5" of QuickCrete ready mix.

[@sheilaaden24]

I did this for a walkway at my front door all the way out to my driveway. I didnt have the money for a professional so i did this. Its been 10 years and its been power washed twice a year and it is still like the day i poured it.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

That is awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[@lisalisa8426]

Getting ready to do my two car garage driveway. Any recommendations for best concrete products that will last? I'm female btw.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

@lisalisa8426 A driveway is low end structural concrete and requires significantly more ground preparation, thickness and at least minimum internal support like steel mesh and depending on the climate and other conditions, up to rebar support. My video is NOT an appropriate guide to such a project. Best of luck with the project.

[@lisalisa8426]

@@dwwoodbuilds Thank you so very much and I appreciate YOU for taking the time to reply 😊🙏🏾

[@dwwoodbuilds]

You're most welcome!

[@toolman.dustin]

I have a shed similar to that. I framed the floor, filled it half way with dry concrete, misted it with water, filled it the other half with dry concrete and miste and finished the top. We get freezing weather every winter. No cracks to this day. I wouldn't park a car on it but for a shed floor its perfect.

[@zirilli3]

I like seeing the dry pours, 10 different guys, 10 different pours, 10,000 comments from the world's experts

[@dwwoodbuilds]

LOL! Thank you for this comment! Thanks for watching!

[@SisyphusJP]

It’s crazy that it actually works dry pours I mean, I’m to nervous to do it I’ll stick to normal mix but it’s cool to see it done. Want to put rebar in my slab too when I do it.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Do what you're comfortable with!

[@user-cj9xw5nf1r]

10.000 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@ronaldmaxwell1108]

Yep, I suppose you don’t need to be expert/ rocket scientist to know that if you don’t mix the right water to dry ingredients ratio you get the right chemical reaction from the dry cement powder, so you don’t end with the famous chinese tofu concrete.

[@ericschenk6033]

Concrete guy here- it may look good, but the structural integrity just isn’t there, it will take a few seasons but that pad will crack all to hell. I’m sure in person you can tell as well because you get such a nicer finish pouring the right way

[@dwwoodbuilds]

sure

[@Malfypoolcreations]

And 2nd finisher here. No surface finish to seal it up. It’s junk. Sakrete In general is shite u gotta add half bag of cement to 3 bags sakrete. To even come close to a finishable product that mite last. But. Wat u did is real easy 😂

[@dwwoodbuilds]

sure

[@Ddavog]

​@@Malfypoolcreations plus the aggregate in sakrete tends to be pretty small and round

[@EDG420]

3rd concrete guy here. I work at a pecaste factory and we do both wet pour and dry pour. Dry for pipe wet for drains. For either of them you NEED rebar, the rebar is what adds structural reinforcement, the moisture underneath your patch will cause the concrete to weaken, and without the rebar it will crack. Best of luck to you and your patch.

[@skoitch]

I’ve tested it. While it’s fine for very light use, after a while my corners broke off and freezing rain caused some surface chipping.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Definitely a light use solution. Would not make a driveway, etc using drypour. I'll be doing followup videos showing how it turns out and pros/cons of the technique.

[@4doorsmorewhors]

​@@dwwoodbuildswhy do it if you know it's worse?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

@@4doorsmorewhors because all the other dry pour videos just praise it and never show any of the downside. I'm doing a followup series showing possible downsides and issues.

[@leepenehoe673]

As a concretor in Australia, I'd never do a dry pour but each to their own.

[@jonhaynes1577]

Don't know why anyone would do a dry pour makes no scene @@leepenehoe673

[@Chief_LJ]

i tried dry pour once and I’ll never do it again.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Ok, sorry to hear you had poor results.

[@stanleykeith6969]

A dry pour will not last, No I would not.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Ok, then don't do it.

[@fernyisable5]

@@dwwoodbuildswe won’t

[@TryingToGetGood]

What did you dry pour? I mean this is just a slab, not a ton of traffic on it, should be just fine.

[@mitchellcrist8381]

What are the benefits of dry pouring? I do concrete for a living and I just dont understand why you wouldnt mix it and pour it normally? Genuine question. Why would anyone do it this way? Just to save some work mixing it? Lack of tools to do a normal pour?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Great questions/concerns, here's the my opinion on the reasons: 1. Tools - ignoring tools to make the form, the only tool needed is a 2x4" to push the dry powder around and scree it (of course a respirator is HIGHLY encouraged). 2. Handling/effort - in this case, it was 10 80lb bags of quickcrete. Dry pour means no effort to mix and then dump/shovel into the form. One of big positive feedbacks (here, instagram and tic-tok) is from elderly people or person with low upper body strength. The most identified use: small pad for garbage cans or a grill. There are definitely issues: surface finish, the water regime to get soaked through and its more porous than wet mix. The higher porosity (will hold more free water in wet conditions) means it can have issues in climates with hard deep freeze cycle (I'm in the deep south so that's not an issue here). In my opinion, its only appropriate for non-structural use (so no drive ways, foundations). Definitely a DIY only technique. Hope this addressed your questions!

[@BrianJonesSr]

No time constraints. Wet pour has time limits. Plus renting equipment for small jobs isn’t realistic. A little more time spent screeding and adding more powder will do a good job.

[@dvtofk9908]

​@@BrianJonesSr you could mix that in a barrow in like 20 minutes

[@joshwhojames]

You answered your own question lol

[@BrianJonesSr]

@@dvtofk9908 how many minutes per wheelbarrow plus time to spread times how many loads plus trowel time. If you’re by yourself, there are time constraints. If you get interrupted for any reason, you’re limited. That’s all I’m saying. This isn’t for professionals coming to do a job.

[@Jameswilliams-ml2wt]

Everyone in the comments are tripping, it’s just a stepping pad for to get into his shed.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

One of the most insightful comments here

[@mattgilstrap7295]

Doesn't matter, you can still have pride in your work and make it look good.

[@dennisallport23]

​@@mattgilstrap7295That's absolutely right. I agree 100%. And to add to that, most people are clueless, so they'll see stuff like this and think they can go and dry pour all sorts of things. Simply Said, this is concrete work, and you are not doing yourself any favors whatsoever by start off learning concrete the wrong way, Period!

[@MrRicobadass]

Your dumbass only thinks it’s insightful because he’s agreeing with your terrible pad. All the other comments that were truly insightful and informative you dismissed and were sarcastic. This is shit

[@leelunk8235]

WEARING A MASK, SMART MAN

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Yep! I have no desire to die a horrible death from Silicosis.

[@leelunk8235]

@@dwwoodbuilds FACT

[@dwwoodbuilds]

👍

[@dylanking1335]

@@dwwoodbuilds you’re old enough by the time it started actually affecting you you’d be close to deaths door anyway, but yea a respirator is the way to go.

[@InvestAndGrow2020]

You don’t need to wear a mask!!!! It’s good for your brain and good for your lungs. Head hard as concrete and lungs to smoke all you can. Comon guys!!!

[@ELIRAXPRT]

What did the manufacturer’s instructions on the bag say? I bet dry pour slab wasn’t mentioned

[@Shawn-rq4py]

No rebar or mesh or anything at all inside to hold it together or prevent cracking etc? It doesn’t take much to do a wet pour & put rebar in. Why risk having to redo this job at a later date because it wasn’t done properly the 1st time?

[@AJDIYNetwork]

It depends on the application. My fence guys used that process. Unfortunately, the cement post did not take and it was 3 months after the one year warranty. I myself will never dry pour.

[@phillipwhite3742]

Post holes are much deeper and the water can’t get down there

[@dwwoodbuilds]

So I guess wells are not a thing?

[@anon2414]

​@@phillipwhite3742the concrete soaks up the ground water...but yea I wouldn't do it

[@michaelmcgee2026]

Fence posts are a completely different concept. Doesnt compare to dry pouring at all

[@AJDIYNetwork]

@@michaelmcgee2026 well they dry poured all of mine

[@asianwhiteguy3472]

No rebar or wire mesh for stability or strength? It will crack after a while.

[@Marsha-yl8wl]

It doesn't hold under pressure as well as the other way. I don't know why, but seen several testing videos. All same results.

[@aaronpetrovich1164]

It really depends on the climate. If it freezes in your climate throughout the year, I wouldn't recommend dry pouring.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I absolutely agree!!! Climates with freeze heaving are problematic for dry pour (even with hog wire).

[@NicoDaGunman]

120fer here so think I’ll be good?

[@bstuts104]

I would never dry poor either, but if I did I think I would've used some rebar for reinforcement

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Fair enough on the dry pour. Here in the south, rebar and/or steel mesh is not required for small non-structural pads or home sidewalks.

[@allborosnyc4544]

4" slab on grade doesn't get rebar, maybe wire mesh.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I'm in deep south, not required by code.

[@ZomegJ]

​@@allborosnyc4544we use rebar all the time no matter the size but some prefer wire.

[@alexandergunaka666]

⁠​⁠how big is your wife that a pad to a shed on compacted gravel needs rebar?

[@PWlangford1]

Will it work with ready mix ?

[@samwarner4398]

Done this plenty of times. I also used bricks, stepping stone with rebar with sackcrete, works great

[@dwwoodbuilds]

That's great to hear! Thanks for watching and sharing!

[@kameronmarks5982]

You could do this right by spending a little more on a shovel and a wheelbarrow, what are you saving by doing this exactly? You literally did everything but mix it wth

[@LilyBlossom1337]

I do like the "elegance" of the technique, but I've got ocd tendencies and have to do everything perfect, even when, in cases such as these, where it's not super necessary. From my research it seems wetter is better. Then again, I may have done it here like you did to try it out, 'cause it just seems fun! c:

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Wet pour definitely allows for a much better surface finish.

[@bigmacdaddy1234]

You were supposed to add the water before you put the cement, then add more water half way through and then add the final water at the end. This way the cement can fully cure from bottom to top. Now it's going to crumble prematurely.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I did water the ground before adding the concrete (just didn't show on the video). Then there was 2 misting and 3 water soaks. It is fully cured and its doing fine after 6 months. See my other videos where I do followups and videos comparing dry pour vs wet pour. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@jeffreyoshea5821]

@@dwwoodbuilds hey buddy. Contlcrete dosnt actually completely cute for 100 years. I’d say in the first few weeks it cures 80 percent. Never fully cured tho

[@joseluisocegueda-ei6ky]

iso muy buen trabajo lo felicito. Ha una cosa más a la gente nunca se le da gusto siempre habrá criticas. Felicidades ​@@dwwoodbuilds

[@topcat7365]

@@joseluisocegueda-ei6kytrue that Jose!

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Gracious! Some people are only happy making others miserable. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@heydonwhite6886]

Can we get an update after a year or so? (This is not a sarcastic question either.)

[@marcobrownstone]

What's wrong with doing it the right way. Might take some time but it will be done correctly.

[@onetailgunner]

Be a retired mason dry pore has no strenth it needs to be mixed considency therw out means every thing . Lime is your sticky if vertical work . What else you want to know .

[@dwwoodbuilds]

The pad is over 7 months old and solid and fine.

[@gerardburke9606]

I’d like to know who taught you how to write so badly 😂😂😂😂😂

[@dwwoodbuilds]

So many comments....

[@alkline2390]

How much lime?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Its QuikCrete Ready Mix. You can read the specs on their website.

[@Hardworkingman870]

I have used dry pour for years in the south 6 years now and no issues

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Glad to hear it!! I'm looking to getting many years out of mine!

[@jiffyclean9429]

Think this would be ok for reinforced concrete bench legs. I have the molds, I hate mixing it. This looks way faster.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

@@jiffyclean9429 its less effort, BUT the watering regime is over several hours, so a longer duration...

[@smusyk2859]

For diy & a small sections like that, "very little traffic area" it's fine, the stones/gravel at the bottom is also a good idea!

[@bdemaree]

What's the advantage? In the time you spent you could have built a wheelbarrow and used it to mix the concrete in.

[@historiasdemimexico1897]

That’s true

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Let's look at the time: 1- both require the dry contents to be poured out (so same time/effort). 2- for wet pour, you have to add water and mix to get a consistent mix this takes several minutes (on the dry pour side you are screeding the dry mix at this time). 3- for the wet mix, you now have pour/or shovel it out of the wheelbarrow into the form (on the dry pour size you are finishing screeding the dry mix. 4 -REPEAT 1, 2, 3 for each 80 lb bag (for the dry pour the misting is starting). There's 10 80lb bags of concrete in the pad. Dry pour I dumped ALL Of them, then SCREEDED the whole form, then the smoothing (which is ALSO needed for wet pour). DRY pour is LESS EFFORT, but because of the watering regime, LONGER DURATION (but you can go do other stuff between the waterings)

[@DylanDraper1]

My luck, I would pick a windy day to try this method.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Good luck!

[@williammarrero4184]

Always remember to install some type of reinforcement on any size of slab.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

This is a common comment that is based on myth and not reality. I'm in the deep south and side walks here do not have ANY reinforcement. Not needed because there's no freeze heaving. In otherwords, there's no ground freezing, and thus vertical expansion (ie, heaving) that stresses the concrete unevenly.

[@ashleygrant3131]

@@dwwoodbuildsso what would your response/advise/counsel be to me, a builder up here in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania??? Would you still recommend a dry pour? What about reinforcement?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

@@ashleygrant3131 First: This is really a DIY technique. I would NOT recommend commercial projects do this because of the duration of the watering regime (time=$). That being said, depends on the intended purpose. Regarding reinforcement, check your local code for the project type. Assuming a small (5'x5') pad or sidewalk, for light duty and following the code for reinforcement, you probably would be ok. Definitely recommend a 3" compacted gravel base for support and prevent erosion under the structure. Also be aware the limits of the surface finish for drypour vs wet pour. Again, for commercial work, I would strongly recommend doing wet pour since all codes and regulations are written for that and especially f the work is going to be inspected. Hope this was of help.

[@dudedujmovic6562]

No rebars? Dry pour will be chipping and cracking a lot faster than wet pour..

[@RKmndo]

I'm not a concrete guy, but I've done small pours like that. I'd mix in a wheelbarrow or similar, then dump it in the form. You could even rent a small mixer. Keep the hose and additional mix nearby. Use rebar.

[@ArmaniValentino]

Some chicken wire would have worked for this

[@KennyInVegas]

We used that stuff to build an addition onto Hoover Dam...worked just fine...leaking just a little but it'll be fine

[@dwwoodbuilds]

uh huh, sure

[@marniemonfort7719]

Lol

[@jjjonis245]

My neighbor went to school to learn how to properly put down cement, after 20 years of busting his butt, he’s now doing dry pour.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Interesting... not what I would expect

[@TanDHend]

He’s dry pouring commercial?

[@yourmomsuncle2953]

for tiny stuff like this it might work but anything else is a no no. problem with this to is that you can’t get traction meaning no broom mark on it

[@dwwoodbuilds]

The natural surface of dry pour has plenty of traction. See the followup videos where I review and critique the results.

[@jaws8817]

@@jjjonis245 likely he’s been putting down concrete. Cement is one component that concrete is made of. Like flour in a cake…

[@kurtfrancis4621]

No, as someone who's mixed well over 500 bags and done many pours, I would never do a dry pour. The portland cement is not mixed thoroughly in with the aggregate and sand. Take cross-sectional cut between a normal pad and a dry pour and you'll see the dry pour has far more porosity and is far more succeptible to fracturing. HARD NO

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I'll accept you not doing one, but regarding mixing, I HAVE cut dry pour and wet pour test pads in half and compared them. No difference. Here's my video: kzbin.infoZv2ZY6qn6Xo That being said, there is more porosity in the dry pour, but at a MUCH smaller scale because there's never a slurry.

[@davidslavodnik2684]

Yes I would have done it quite a few times works just fine if you do it right

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Glad to hear it! Like most things, its the "do it right" part that's key! 😁

[@GG-sj2wg]

I just don't see the advantage and the strength is reduced significantly. How hard would it be to mix 1/2 dozen bags?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

10 80lb bags.. and the point of the video is to show a dry pour. As to strength, its strong enough (think sidewalk)

[@LaughOutLouie88]

I would do a dry pour on small projects like these. Not on big projects of course.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

This is about as big of a project I would do with dry pour. Thanks for watching!

[@yolandejoazard6655]

😂😂😂

[@genejohnson4120]

Hell no, after 45 years in the construction business I know what works and what does not. If you want a cheap easy pad under a dog house that does not have to have to last, here you go. If you want strong cement quality that really holds up there is no quick easy fix. Not willing to do the work twice with my customers thinking I'm a dumb ass😂😂😂😂 ,

[@dwwoodbuilds]

this is a limited DIY techique. Absolutely NOT appropriate for commerical work.

[@FlyEagIesFly]

Mickey mouse construction

[@allenmartin7193]

Just spend the extra time and do it right. Then you’ll be happy with your results.

[@heynow01]

"Dry poor pour", but fine for a temp pad.

[@watchinglistening]

@genejohnson4120 I APPRECIATE YOUR NO 🐂 COMMENT! I'VE MIXED ALOT OF BAG MIX, I WON'T EVEN "DRY SET" FENCE POSTS!

[@kevinrivard3875]

Just did a 8x8 dry pour pad today. First time ever doing any cement at all. So far looks great. Did a one inch river rock base and about 2.5 inch slab thickness. A light 2 mistings for the first 2 hours. Then 3 shower waterings every hour. Hope it turns out. Looks good so far. Gonna wait atleast 72 hours b4 i remove the forms.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Sounds great!!

[@liveandletlive2894]

Lmk how it is. I wanna do a 10x10 for a log cabin

[@willisshields647]

I'm getting ready my 8 by 8 also.. I put crusted concrete for base..let us know how it came out

[@antivegan5881]

@@willisshields647dry pour sucks, just mix the concrete or get a truck…

[@dwwoodbuilds]

sure

[@drewfoy]

I tried this a few weeks ago to see how it will work. I started some water on the bottom with 2 inches of concrete, added metal reinforcement, followed with 2 more inches. After the 1st light spray every half hr did a heavy spray for the next 5 hrs. I kept the concrete wet for the following 7 days. I wanted to see if water curing will make a difference in final strength.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Please share the results! I've wondered about the effectiveness of wet curing dry pour!

[@drewfoy]

@dwwoodbuilds I will let you know. I have not taken the forms off yet, this weekend I am putting up a 12x14 gazebo on it. I am wondering about the adhesive I watered down slightly helped bond the 1st 2 inches to the top 2 inches.

[@krjr196836]

I've done this for our patio. Almost a year later, Doing perfect.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

That's great!

[@Myzy35]

How big did you make your patio? We’re thinking about doing this for a 16x16 ft pad.

[@mateuszw.7905]

​@@Myzy35 nope

[@domb2NY]

I did a dry pour on a 4x6 sidewalk block. It came out ok for my amateur experience. I probably should have done more floating and toweling. It's an ok method

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Not being able to do a smooth surface finish is a definite issue with dry pour

[@willytrouble88]

Why wouldn’t you just mix it and then pour it? What’s the advantage of dry pouring?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Less effort. Its a DIY only technique because its also less strong (for several use cases, like my pad or a pad for garbage cans, etc), its plenty strong enough.

[@KSU-ce2uc]

No tensile strength without mesh or rebar towards the bottom, so it's definitely going to crack. Also, seems the water would be more excessive than pouring wet and that moisture may not be properly distributed.

[@RyeDoug]

I've seen some dry pour stuff here and there, and find it quite interesting that it works so well. I only really question the longevity. and I have a hypothesis that by doing a dry pour and watering like you have done, then the concrete MAY last longer than wet pour. I base this guess on the fact that Roman concrete has larger than average lime minerals within it, and when a crack forms, water activates those lime reserves as it were, healing the concrete. I believe that dry pouring like this may make the formed slabs and objects last longer by possibly healing, because it doesn't seem like dry-pours would necessarily activate all the cement in the concrete

[@flytomahawk2327]

I think the biggest factor in concrete are the ingredients. Ancient Roman cement had lime and tephra from volcanic ash and fragments. Today's concrete is Portland cement, sand and gravel. Wet pouring activates the full tensile strength once set. Where as a dry pour sets only the top layer as well as guaranteed to have an uneven mix.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Concrete is hygrologic (absorbs water), so the water is absorbed all the way through. I need to post the video where I cut a dry pour slab in half and show its solid all the way through.

[@g..s..s..]

Cut the shit dude thats not your "hypothesis". Fucking thieving asshole. You "parroted" what you heard from another source and you are wrong because thats not the mix the romans used😂 Carry on Mr. Bullshit Artist.

[@william-fla-321]

Something to consider would be, no wire mesh for strength.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

@@jonstockman2921 Really? What is your opinion based on? Maybe look at my followup videos and the video where I cut a dry pour pad in half

[@serenadevon]

Yeah bc of your easy instructions & inspiration!

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Thank you! Recommend you watch some of the other youtube videos to get more details on how to do it.

[@tonydavis3420]

What are the benefits of this? If youre still doing all the steps then why not just mix it to begin with?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

But I'm NOT doing all the steps. Not doing the mixing and then pouring into the form and then vibrating (repeat for 10 80 lbs bags).

[@Adam-cl9xr]

But will it hold up over time.

[@yohanonshine4664]

Only on fence posts unless you don't mind that it cracks easier.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

For this case, its fine

[@yohanonshine4664]

@@dwwoodbuilds I actually went the other way and hydro cured my walk way and it cures even harder you should try that next . You can also add binding material to make it even harder.

[@AJDIYNetwork]

@@yohanonshine4664I agree. My fence cement fence post cracked after 13 months

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Yes! That would definitely provide more water for a stronger cure! Thanks for watching!

[@dozinallday]

To all the negative Nancy’s on this post. This dry pour will be just fine. The heaviest thing that will be on it is a human being. Stop being so critical

[@dwwoodbuilds]

thank you!

[@ozdoublelife]

Agreed, for all the negative comments there are equal amounts of proven success for this method.

[@sergiogonzalez661]

For small concrete project like that. It will work

[@dwwoodbuilds]

thank you

[@SF-ww9xe]

@@sergiogonzalez661 small projects is the key

[@lotklear]

It seems to me that some sort of hard (er) top finish would help. Like porcelain tile.

[@Quadplum]

Why do a dry pour if you’re “finishing” it anyways?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Some people just screed it, but I wanted to try to get a better finish. Regardless, still saves the effort of wet mixing, pouring it again and then vibrating it to remove the air bubbles.

[@chrisfisichella7665]

That is really interesting.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Thank you!

[@mikepoint4717]

After seeing this being done I would give it a try . Cheers 🇨🇦

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Thanks!

[@adventurefuel5172]

35 years in construction, and I don’t understand this recent fixation with dry pours lately. It’s almost the same work, with worse results. Add water while you’re raking the mix in the form and you with get a stronger more homogeneous mix. Then float and trowel the same way. If you got the skills to dry pour, you can do a mix in place. Just don’t get the fast setting mix.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

The answer is simple: dry pour videos get millions of views.

[@allanfarr]

I mixed the cement in the form with water. Then packed it down nicely and smoothed it out. A bit of work but almost same as mixer. I am doing my driveway a 2x3 slab at a time.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

interesting.

[@enigmacrk200]

Is “dry pour” a new thing? Just seems like a waste of product. However I would be interested to see what the underside and strength of that slab is. I look at it this way if dry pour was such a great method why are the people who do this for a living not doing it? I mean if they are doing this as a job wouldn’t they want to take advantage of any time savings they can? There has to be a reason why it’s so many of these videos are done by Diy’ers wearing crocs using this methods and no real contractors.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Great questions. Its a DIY technique only for a few reasons. Big reason, the watering regime takes hours (water, wait an hour, water, wait an hour...). If you're trying to make money, you'll go broke quick doing this. Next big issue, in my opinion, its only suitable for small pads and light duty (so no foundations, no driveways, etc). I'm just showing the techinque and then doing followup videos showing results and critiquing how well it works.

[@meredithaherntamilio4553]

Wow, definitely i would use dry pour..less back breaking work ,I'd imagine...

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Definitely no shoveling wet concrete! 😁

[@madyottoyotto3055]

Yes you only have to work 2 times as hard to make enough money to do this

[@dwwoodbuilds]

@@madyottoyotto3055 home DIY technique, NOT appropriate for commercial work.

[@madyottoyotto3055]

@@dwwoodbuilds yes I am aware but regardless people are best being aware this is the very expensive way to achieve this I prefer this I make concrete statues etc with them using compression they are extremely strong Using this pure mix of cement assuming not using fast set etc it's around three grades below what they use on nuclear power plants Done well it will out live US ALL MAYBE cement costs more in the UK I use vibration to remove air before it soaks too much water up I sometimes use a very thin watery cement to help it drink give a better finish for this it needs vibration to self level if required I like doing this but the cost difference is .minor point for most Ideal if you appreciate having things over engineered for the same cost of paying others to do this

[@dwwoodbuilds]

This is NOT pure cement. Quickcrete is a ready-mix (pre-mix of cement, sand and aggregate in the correct proportions).

[@nathanbohn1078]

the second you said im doin a dry pour i thought... dont do a dry pour. hows it look today? probably should have used some netting in there.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Over a year old and solid. Its fine.

[@mikefrench4787]

I wonder why no re-wire or re-bar 🤔

[@paulkz224]

Needs subgrade compaction, rebar, and proper pour

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Its on 3" of compacted gravel. Its non-structural so rebar is not needed (love all the comments saying rebar is needed for non-structural light duty pads.. this is like a very short sidewalk.. fun fact... side walks for your house doesn't have rebar) and since the point of the video is to show a dry pour, its a proper pour. Thanks for watching!

[@user-kg4pi4sv6c]

Agreed, non structural. But you forgot the 1/2 expansion on the outside edge 😂

[@tcufrogfan]

No metal reinforcement in the concrete always leads to cracks later on.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

rebard/metal reinforcement doesn't prevent cracks. Also, this is a non-structural light duty pad.

[@bencze5581]

​@@dwwoodbuilds everything cracks but not everything cracks and seperates

[@dwwoodbuilds]

On that, I will 100% agree!

[@benjaminstart6770]

Its for a shed😂

[@fuelforthepyre_9044]

Looks like you're gonna get a inch and a half (if you're lucky) of hardened concrete, and about 4 to 5 inches of untouched fluffy interior.

[@howie4150]

It's been tested. Wet pour is stronger than a dry pour by a factor of 10. A guy did two pours the same size.. waited a week and drove his truck tire over both.. The dry pour cracked like peanut brittle. It had pockets of unmixed powder inside. The wet pour didn't crack at all..

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Interesting, because I cut a dry pour in-half, its cured all the way thru (see my concrete cage match videos). fullsteamdesign shows the same (and he drives a truck on a dry pour and wet pour and they both are about the same). MichaelBuilds does the same, with similar results. So, please share what test you saw.

[@howie4150]

@@dwwoodbuilds kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2O0iqJtmKhrZ68

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Thanks for sharing the link. Just watched and major error is he didn't soak it enough (yes, I saw the on-screen text saying he watered it 3 more times, but it didn't say or show how MUCH water was applied). That is the most difficult part of dry pour, the watering regime. If he had soaked it properly, there wouldn't have been any dry powder. Regardless, while dry pour does not result in as strong as wet mix (actual measurements range from 50-60%), for many uses (pad for shed, for gargage cans, etc), its strong enough. Also remember, he broke it apart 24 hrs later, so no conclusion can be reached regarding strength for what he did. My followup videos also break both dry pour and wet pour pads apart after 3 days (kzbin.infojQa5aqMzbgc) and then cut both a dry and wet pour in-half after 14 days (kzbin.infoZv2ZY6qn6Xo)

[@wakeupsheeple34]

I have had paper bags of cement go off ie like rock...its possible but needs the right moisture and time...

[@dwwoodbuilds]

its always water and time! 👍

[@cristobalvillalpando7451]

Wild I didn't know you could do it that way. Thank you

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Only for non-structural light duty usage. Also, I'm in the deep south so no deep freeze cycles that result in freeze heaving. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@kennethsanders1694]

I am pouring 2’x3’ concrete pads on a set of steps down a steep yard beside my house. I am not worried so much with a pretty finish because I will come back with a layer of 2” flagstone that will be cemented to the pads and will have mortared joints as well. If this works it should be more stable than just fine gravel or sand as a bed.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Sounds great!

[@frankjames4743]

What was the point of using a finishing, floating and edging trowel on a dry mix?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Good question. Just a screed suface is really rough, so troweling/floating helps provide a smoother surface. The edging is to prevent sharp corners which are fragile. Have to do this BEFORE adding the water otherwise you will have a crumbled mess (the misting causes the surface to start setting).

[@Smachfest]

Mixing 3, 2, 1 works better. More control of the end product and half the price.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

So you are saying to not use ready mix but to mix cement, sand and aggregate myself?

[@mexicaninjafredfred]

Doesn't matter a dry pour will last just as long lots of people have tested dry pours

[@Jesse-lu7bt]

Form it put gravel bottom rebarr or wire barrel mix it ormud box rotter tiller it done no watering move on next honey do project get er ✅ done nowatering or worry's lol

[@itsme-gn2vg]

Maybe try only spread half that amount of bags, level it out and give it a good soaking of water. Then spread out the other remaining bags then give it some water. Idk just an idea I was thinking it would be better moisture throughout the pour

[@mattwebster7266]

​@itsme-gn2vg you always do a pour in one go if possible. Letting half set then doing another half will give you a weak spot. If you cannot manage it all in one pour then put some galvanised heavy wire in half way through ur mix, not for getting to over lap onto ur next half so to give strength and stop cracking.

[@CheersWarren]

Yup I did 12 x17 for a shed base. Worked great . Might not be the ultimate concrete but plenty good enough !!!!

[@dwwoodbuilds]

That's awesome! And yes, plenty good enough!

[@mikeblalock9380]

Pouring it wet will give it more strength. If it's not going to hold a lot of weight I do not see why this is an issue. He is not putting the shed on it, or a car, it's only for people to walk on. 4000lb concrete vs 200lb man. Even if the concrete lost half it's strength that's 2000lb concert now.

[@drmarsh4287]

I'd never do a dry pour because I get paid for my work. 😂 This is just to piss people off right?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Dry pour is absolutely NOT appropriate for commercial work. DIY only and then for non-structural light duty use. Didn't make the video to piss people off, but I knew it would be controversial. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@HannadayFLO]

Do you really need to remove the wooden frame? I would be afraid edges would break off over time.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

See the followup videos.

[@gopaulsalick507]

Professional DIYer here of 25yrs... sand is actually the bonding agent and rebar for structural integrity which neither one of those are in your concrete... now because thats a small little pad looks like 6x4, You can get away with what you did but not with anything larger

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Good for you. Here is something new for you to learn. The product being used is QuikCrete Ready-mix. Its called Ready-Mix because it ALREADY has the correct proportions of cement, sand and aggregate (ie, its CONCRETE mix). As to rebar, rebar is for STRUCTURAL projects. This is NON-structural and light duty (think side walk). My climate does NOT have freeze heaving AND the pad is on a 3" compacted gravel base, so no re-enforcement is needed (no steel mesh either). I'm fully aware of what I built and the decisions I made. I know you are trying to be helpful, but maybe do a bit more learning about the WHY behind why things are done. Construction codes are VERY different across the US because of climate differences.

[@tkinnc1]

Has anyone broken up a drypour after completion to see how deep the water mix with the concrete?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I have videos showing it and there's others as well. Spoiler alert, it goes all the way through. Concrete is hygroscopic, meaning it loves water (absorbs it).

[@coreygroves7313]

What's the point of a dry pour ?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Less effort for home diy for small pads

[@crafterlula1328]

There's a wonderful video of a man testing his dry-pour vs regular concrete. The dry-pour was really brittle and came apart relatively easily. I'd be surprised if your pad lasted more than a couple years. Also, you really should use wet pour for a pad that'll be exposed to the elements. A flat finish like you have is a tripping hazard once it's wet.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

There are several videos showing the results (I even have videos showing dry vs wet pour). Also, the finish is NOT smooth, there's plenty of texture (see the followup videos). Also, I think you mean SLIPPING hazard, not TRIPPING hazard.

[@nouro7723]

Dry pouring is often considered easier than wet pouring because it eliminates the step of mixing the concrete first. However, dry pouring has several disadvantages, including a lower quality final product, a higher risk of cracking or uneven surfaces, and a higher potential for costly repairs or replacements.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I agree that the surface finish is an issue, but for where I live, no freeze heaving, so not worried about cracking. I would NOT do dry pour in areas with significant freeze heaving. Knowing the limitations of the technique is important. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@phillipware9681]

If he put rebar etc in it would it be ok?

[@joncotn]

Why would you do a dry pour? I’ll give that pad 2 years before it cracks

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Good question. I've seen other use the techique and thought I would try it and show it. Also, I've posted videos where I REVIEW and CRITIQUE the results.

[@alexv.h.7698]

Do you keep the 2 by 4s on or can you remove them after its dry? Ive never done anything with concrete in my life

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Remove them. See my followup videos where I remove them, then review and critique the results

[@bigtime4794]

I've dug up plenty of fence post. Dry pour will crumble. Wet pour will only get harder with age.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

That does not sound fun.

[@colbynuhfer3019]

What's the point?

[@AxAx-f8o]

Don’t you mix sand with concrete with dry pour?

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Its QuikCrete CONCRETE ready-mix... its already the correct proportions of cement, sand and aggregate.

[@davidlawlor4317]

I used it to pack up and level the fender walls and pad below a slate hearth and it worked well. Its less daunting even for tradies like me who are not confident with concrete or wet trades.

[@jameshihihin1320]

For your application of this I would say go for it as long as it gets thoroughly soaked through. Some people act as if all concrete will be bearing the weight of 50 ton vehicles.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Thanks

[@user-cw8dq4uo1p]

The mix at the bottom of this will not get wet enough to activate the bonding, and you will have an insecure base at the bottom which will soon deteriorate.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Common comment and wrong. See my video where I cut a dry pour in half (and there are others that show the same). Solid all the way thru. Concrete readily absorbs water, from the ground and even from the air.

[@kevbutler81]

Good to see some nice wet substrate before adding the dry mix. I feel like a lot of people don’t understand the molecular and chemical reaction of concrete. Water is just an activator for a chemical reaction that starts the binding & hardening process! (Heat) Mixing just creates consistency when adding air, lime or polymers, depending on spec and location cold & heat exposure! not an issue for a small pad in your backyard, big issue for an engineer on a 40000sqf slab or grade beam. Also… The less water added the stronger the concrete will cure. So technically once absorption has been achieved and it’s left to cure a bag of concrete is the same as pouring block of concrete. One thing I will say is this process should never be done without reinforcing of some kind, FGR, bar, or mesh. Concrete it will crack eventually and wit no bar it can even split completely.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Yes. Regarding rebar or mesh, code doesn't require it here. Deep south and negligible freeze heaving. Its also on compacted gravel base. That said, forever is a long time...

[@tracylatino331]

How much time in between misting and soaking? I know u said “several hours” but I’m gonna try doing this today and want to plan accordingly

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Strongly recommend you watch Cajun Country Livin channel's videos on dry pour for detailed "how to" info

[@F0XH0UND007]

For dry pour id soak the base with water add concrete mix then layer half of concrete mix. id pour some water on that layer and top it off with dry layer of mix then mist the top then proceed what you did.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Go for it. You might want to google "concrete cold bond" though...

[@clemesliger]

How about epoxy when the concrete is dry? Probably last forever

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Epoxy is used on indoor concrete, like a garage, because it will breakdown over time from UV exposure if its outside.

[@bonesrhodes3762]

quick and easy: of course it will not set with anywhere near the strength of wet mixed. One advantage, though, is it will be easy to bust-up when ( not "if" ) it cracks : the total lack of wire ( and seemingly the shallowness of the actual concrete ) will make it even easier.

[@jamesnm21]

I don't think the finish will look right even if it's structurally sound. Tests do show that dry pour is significantly weaker than wet mixed however.

[@user-qr2st3yq3l]

Dry pour coming up before winter haha I hope 🤞

[@BIDENOMICSWORKS]

It should crack and have minimal tensile strength. Could of put some BS steel to help the strength but if you’re going to do it right preferably wire mesh

[@solutionrecruiter7130]

with a wheelbarrow you can mix two bags at a time very easy and simply dump it in the forms... a small pad like this very easy for one guy

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Yes and I"ve done it. The point of the video is to demonstrate a dry pour. The dry pour is less effort (longer duration because of the watering regime, but a person can go off and do something else during that time). For a small pad like I show or as several commenters have mentioned, a small pad for garbage cans, its something they can see themselves doing. Could they mix it, yes, but the simplicity of the dry pour makes it something they can actually see themself doing.

[@mbuzard46]

Never done this myself but this looks great! I may try it for a small ramp to get my lawnmower into my shed.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Go for it!

[@ericbredvick813]

If a dry pour were to crack or have a large section or corner break off in a year would that change the technique from the person who constructed it that way?The ingredients in concrete are formulated to have a measured amount of water added to the mix. This action of adding water starts a pre-engineered chemical reaction that brings the completed material to its designed intent. By pouring dry and adding water on surface prevents that action to take place. The top may slightly set up and appear to be a good cure. However without following manufacture instructions you will not achieve any measurable success . Even though it may appear to look the same as properly poured concrete.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I'm fully aware of how concrete works and the role water plays in the chemical reactions to achieve bonding and strength. Its not as strong as wet poured, but it is strong enough for this use case. Also, its cured all the way through. Don't believe me? see my video where I cut a dry pour in half (and there's other that show the same). The point of the video is to show a dry pour (for an appropriate use case). If I was doing a driveway or anything structural, I would be using wet mixed concrete (and wet curing it).

[@amituofo.]

No. The formula required a mix with water to form the strength to last. This will fall a part in no time

[@dwwoodbuilds]

I've addressed this type of comment multiple times already.

[@clarencenoack-3845]

Looks OK, but how long before it cracks up in areas

[@dwwoodbuilds]

How long till normal concrete cracks up in areas? Its already 7 months old and no changes.