Connecting Cat5e Cable to 'RJ45' Wall Sockets

Connecting Cat5e cable to Cat5e wall sockets, usually called RJ45 even though that is not the correct name.
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[@Dwars-ls6tc]

Thanks, convinced my dad he needed a tool to do it properly, he’s the type of stubborn guy who’d rather try for 4 hours instead of going out and buy a tool. Great explanation!

[@mauricecriddle]

I watched several of your videos before designing and laying out the electrics for my new garden office. That is now installed and tested by an electrician. This time I am completely confident of being able to run an ethernet cable out there and plug in a socket at each end. Thank you so much for all your help. No fluff or faff, just clear instructions with emphasis in the right places!

[@100SteveB]

I have one of those testers, took me a while to realise that the number 2 led on the remote unit was not working. A frustrating amount of time was spent looking for a fault in the cabling before i finally checked the tester with a known good lead. Swearing was heard!

[@chillybrit2334]

Had the same issue with that cheap style of tester, but on pin 4 and intermittent depending on how I manipulated the cable at the master end. Same head scratching and swearing result. Unreliable testing kit is worse than flat out completely broken, false positives, false negatives, just don't need that when doing this stuff day to day. Bought something a little more expensive (~£50), still budget as far as CAT5/6 (8P8C before JW gets too irate) test kit goes but it does bring additional features to the party such as cable locating - for those instances where some utterly lazy incompetent has not labelled any outlet and you need to find where it goes to in the patch panel - and basic PSTN testing.

[@johncoops6897]

It is important to understand that the LEDs on the remote are not in the slightest bit important. The remote device must be plugged in to make the test, but you do not need to view or check the LEDs at the remote end. The lLEDs on the master will only illuminate if the connections are made correctly. The LEDs on the remote show the same information. If one LED doesn't light, then that connection doesn't have continuity. If 2 LEDs don't light sequentially, then you have a cross over between those two. If 2 x LEDs light up together, you have a short between them. But all of that can be determined from the LEDs on the main unit, and you do not need to even sight the remote.

[@Ressy66]

good vid John, I get to plus you again :) I'm also really glad you mentioned the twists as close as possible, so many people forget or dont know this, they treat it like a plug and untwist the lot, so well done

[@JSPVid]

As always, a very CLEAR demonstration from John that blows the others away. Wanted to check how to use punch-down tool, other videos no matter how well made didn't make clear, hand in the way, not close enough, how does the tool push and cut, which way around to position; ah har, play John's video and crystal clear to me now.

[@pikeyandclaire]

My god, where were you when i was an apprentice! All your videos have me captivated. Great explanations and practical applications. Thank you.

[@g7mks383]

Just beware there are two standards for wiring RJ45: TIA/EIA 568 A & TIA/EIA 568 B. The A standard provides backward compatibility with phone wires. The inner 4 wires are wired the same (orange stripe, blue, blue stripe, orange) for both phone and data. The B standard is more common, perhaps because it is not backwards compatible with phone wires. Plugging in a computer to a Network jack that is actually wired for phone can damage your computer when the phone rings. While using Cat5e jacks for both data and phone may be convenient, there is no visual indication if a jack is for phone or data. Connecting a computer to a RJ45 jack that is wired as a phone might damage the network card when the phone rings.

[@michaelcostello6991]

Thank you. These videos help make up for the many terrible teachers out there and allow students pass their exams.

[@marcel2023]

Well done! I like the detail in your video, i can see now how it actually connects, gonna try this soon.

[@SeanBZA]

Made a few exactly like yours to act as cable joins, as I had premade cables, plenty of sockets, but no flexible cable and was running out of the plugs as well. Just had to stay there for a few days till I had a chance to replace the 2 leads with a single much longer one.

[@nithyanandarajah]

Thank you. Excellent video with very clear commentary

[@MalagasOnFire]

Nice job on the inserts with the tool and good advice on keeping the twisting. again get a decent insert tool for heavy dutty. although the cat6 here is getting more usual the cat5e is more easy to crimp / insert.

[@chrismcnally9079]

Thanks for making the second video on RJ45 termination

[@philipbramley3042]

thanks clear and concise , enabled me to mend a socket pulled off the wall with the connections gone , ( a £7 tool and 2 minutes and it was done , thanks john

[@hnsplus]

You're a life saver worked like a charm thank you

[@lorim7487]

Very useful refresher - I'm about to install a load of these :-)

[@hamidbazmi7948]

Good video. That would be great if you could teach the way you have explained ring final circuit. Draw on paper, and how it is terminated at the hob, patch panel, .... Thanks again, H

[@andynevill7199]

Hello thank you this is helpful. Did you have any advice on how to maintain minimum cable radius bends in the flush wall plate box? Usually the cable will enter the box on one side or through the back of the box. You need a few inches of free cable so that you can install and maintain the face plate connection. That cable needs to be stuffed into the wall plate box - that is the point at which cables can bend sharper than the minimum radius (radius = 4 times cable diameter).

[@taral555]

Thank you for the informative video... I don't know why people even disliking this video???

[@joemccarthy9990]

Well done again jw top man

[@Blade-420]

interesting that in England/UK you have the little shutters over the RJ45 socket opening like the hot terminal on your plug outlets. which would keep any dust.dirt out . as far as I know, we don't have the shutters on ours in the U.S , but I am not up o the latest network developments here .

[@Xclub40X]

Instructions unclear . . . Connected the 5cats to the mains. . . . I guess feline in is not the same as mains line in. . . . . . .meeeeouch Keep up the good work JW. . . Been following you for a while now. . . Love the vids

[@GyrotexGaming]

Hi John, I found your video googling for a simple explanation of what are "5e" wall sockets for and how to use them if all I want is to hook up my modem as we are moving to the new place. Our current place is wired using the (old style?) "normal" phone cable sockets - the narrow ones, not the wide Ethernet cable ones, if you can forgive my noobish explanation of the matter. I wasn't able to locate any of the narrow ones around the house, that I'd expect to connect my modem to. Are these wide Ethernet 5e ones to be used with Ethernet cable to get my usual internet connection in the new home? Information on the internet is very confusing and appears to assume some networking knowledge a lot of us - average Joes - don't have. Any advice here (or maybe you have a simple "how to connect internet in your home using 5e sockets" tutorial?) would be most appreciated.Thank you

[@jwflame]

The better method is to have the modem at the point where the incoming cable enters the property, and then distribute inside using Cat5e or above with the 'RJ45' sockets.

[@lalvare]

Excellent video Thank u

[@fn0rd99]

Thanks, another clear and instructive video. Btw the thumbnail youtube picked makes it look like a Darth Vader helmet is nuzzling your face.

[@abscomm]

Nice looking sockets John, what brand are they and where can you get them from in UK?

[@jwflame]

Cheapo Axiom ones from Toolstation, www.toolstation.com/axiom-rj45-cat5e-wall-outlet-kit/p64596 Much better ones are available.

[@johnsheppard7388]

Work your way along with the insert tool starting from nearest the cable. That way you are less likely to dislodge an existing insert.

[@martinda7446]

Cool as usual.

[@FindBp]

Very helpful instruction, thanks for sharing. Although maybe im gonna just stick with the cable which directly connected to router since it seems very difficult to me xD But, at least i know the step for installing these

[@utdfederation]

Hi john, do you have to follow the colours on the wall jack,

[@adriand1817]

I appreciate the video John, its very helpful But I’m surprised that no one seems to make a simple face plate with a female plug connector on both sides. So one can simply buy a long enough cable, run it in the wall and then plug each end into the back of the face plate and fit it to the wall box, so fast and straight forward no need for wiring or special tools If someone knows where i can find these please reply

[@jwflame]

Panel mount connectors in that style are available, such as this: cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electronic-components/cp30220/feedthru-utp-cat5e-rj45-rj45-blk/dp/CN20411 although you would need to mount it in a suitable plate, buying a blank plate and drilling holes in it would be an option.

[@adriand1817]

@@jwflame Thanks for the reply, but i found one after all, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wall-Socket-Plate-One-Port-Network-Ethernet-LAN-CAT6-Outlet-Panel-Faceplate-RJ45/332016678924?hash=item4d4dbc780c:g:v0cAAOSwb~VfMNHM

[@richard-riku]

Only four out of the eight wires are used for 100Mbit connections, so it's possible to use one cable for the two sockets (two wire pairs per socket). This doesn't work for 1000Mbit though since it makes use of all eight wires in the cable but for 100Mbit you can get two independent network connections with just one cable.

[@johncoops6897]

Nice historical fact, however NOBODY should ever be cabling for 100Mbit. It is almost 2020, not the 1990s

[@jayak390]

Does it matter wishing pairs you use in each outlet ?

[@jamesmyrthong6112]

Thank You🙏🙏🙏🙏

[@detperformanceltd2963]

This guy should consider a career as a newsreader.. Good video.

[@odmods]

Good morning @John Ward thanks for this helpful video, can I ask would it be possible to extend this network by splicing a second wire into the back of the socket , so 2 colored wires per connection and then run a 2nd wire from the back of the socket to another single output socket. basically like an extension connected to the rear of the socket terminal . ? thanks

[@jwflame]

No, it has to be one socket from one cable, which connects to one outlet on the router or switch. If two sockets are wired like that it should be possible to use only one of them at a time, but even that isn't recommended and may have problems with interference.

[@Blundelll]

You want to look for a component called a "switch". It makes 1 socket into multiple sockets.

[@haywardsteve]

On my cat 6 sockets the orange and blue cores are reversed are you using a different configation?my sockets have orange white in 2 and orange in 1 and the blues are reversed

[@Mike_5]

Very informative video as usual JW but i assume this was a T568A wiring scheme?

[@jwflame]

T568B, same as the plugs in the other video.

[@Mike_5]

@@jwflame nice one JW super swift and concise reply as usual - please keep up your good work educating us all on the subjects we need to know and understand about

[@UsefulWisdom]

Very interesting video but what if I was having an bad day and put the wrong wring in a terminal. Can I simply pull the cable out without causing any damage to the wall socket or the cable?

[@jwflame]

Yes, wires just pull out. The insertion tools usually have a hook on them for that purpose.

[@UsefulWisdom]

@@jwflame Thank you John. 😀

[@RyoHazuki1]

Thanks, I have 24 plates and a patch panel to do, and it's been a while...

[@RicktheRecorder]

Easy on the bench, not so easy with short lengths of cable at the wall socket. And what about the AB swap?

[@R_T_Ralph]

Hi John. Is it possible to use a double socket, with 1 ethernet cable, and wire it up so that both sockets use the same cable? example, i have a setup, with 1 cable to my office from the router downstairs, but as needs must lately, i have 2 computers here now. I need the 2 pc's wired through the cable. Is it possible to wire up a socket in this way, or are there easier solutions to share 1 ethernet cable to 2 devices. Thank in advance.

[@jwflame]

It can be done by using only 2 of the 4 pairs of wires, however both ends of the cable will need to altered, it will be limited to 100Mbps and it won't be possible to use PoE devices. Generally a very bad idea. Far better and easier to just add a 2 port (or more) switch at the end of the cable, such as this: cpc.farnell.com/tp-link/ls1005g/litewave-5-port-gigabit-desktop/dp/CS33157

[@PaulSteMarie]

Nice topic. That looks similar to the keystone jacks I've used in the past, but those are usually one over the other, US style, not side-by-side which seems to be the British preference. I like the cutter on your 110 punchdown tool. The usual ones in the US just have a tooth on the side for cutting, which is usual more nicking than cutting. I am quite amused to see shutters on the Ethernet jacks. What does Ethernet run at? 5v? When terminating pairs, I generally avoid untwisting the pairs. You can generally spread the pair enough to span the slot without completely untwisting the pair from the end. You can also get heads for the punchdown tool to seat all four pairs at once, both side-by-side for keystones and inline for 110 terminal blocks. Does your cable tester identify split pairs?

[@patrickwigmore3462]

The shutters are the same style as the shutters on our phone sockets. As far as I am aware, they are just for keeping dust and debris out. Portable equipment doesn't normally have shutters on it.

[@Monkeh616]

That is not a 110 tool, nor 110 blocks. 110 blades are 90 degrees to cable entry. These are Krone LSA-PLUS style, easily identified by the 45 degree blades.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

The style of tester that John is using will not identify split pairs unfortunately

[@commonsoulgaming8511]

Do you know, if it's possible to have a duo wall socket like this one but use a single cable to connect it?

[@jwflame]

Possible by connecting only 4 wires to each socket, however they will be limited to 100Mbs and features like POE can't be used. Unless it's really the only option for using an existing cable, installing one cable per socket is far better.

[@johnrichardson544]

Do you know if you can actually get sockets designed for stranded cable, or are they all designed (as they should be) for solid?

[@Monkeh616]

The IDC terminals generally used here (Krone style) are supposed to handle stranded cable fine. This may vary with quality.

[@johnclarke2997]

RJ45 sockets the missing ID markers. Excellent start to the day.

[@derektodd4126]

What's your opinion on these new type RJ45 plugs that allows the wire to pass through before you crimp. I personally have used them without purchasing the expensive accompanying trimmer.?

[@jwflame]

Never used them - but I don't do many plugs, installations usually contain the wall sockets and any leads are just purchased ready made.

[@medes5597]

EZRJ45? I don't know anyone who works with RJ45 who stuck with them after one or two uses. They have a real tendency to cause sparking and arcing because of how they're made. The copper in them is badly done and causes shorting and sparks. Really not good but I can't work out if it's just poor build quality from the current patent holder or a inherently flawed design. I haven't really had chance to look at them up close but I do still have some. I might give them another look now I've been reminded.

[@Monkeh616]

@@medes5597 Sparking and arcing? From where to what?

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@Monkeh616 I'm guessing on power-over-ethernet applications

[@dotanuki3371]

"This style of connector requires a tool .... " What is that style of connector called? What is the tool called? EDIT: The connector is generally called a punch-down block, and the tool used is called a punch-down tool. Common variants used for networking are the 110 block, and the Krone LSA-PLUS. The block in the video appears to be of the Krone variant, from the 45 degree angling of the contact slot. Note that punch down tools come in different variants, with "blades" to fit various connector sizes, and the Krone specific one is often just called a "Krone tool".

[@Thingstest-rl8xu]

The "unbranded" tool and terminal you have is Krone and not generally available to the public in many places. Krone and BIX (Yes still around under Belkin.) are mostly sold to Contractors at a Premium Prices. One "Cheap" terminals and tools are "110" and sold to public and professionals under many Brands like LEVITON. Most 110 punch tools do not cut like Krone or BIX instead cutting edge cuts the wire using the terminal plastic as an anvil. Caution: Many knockoffs of 110 tools and terminals are very cheap and will cause problems when installing or days to months latter.

[@chillybrit2334]

The type of tool JW uses in this is readily available in the UK at various trade chain store outlets for less than £10 - they sell to the general public too. You can get them with or without cutters. I think Krone's patent or whatever must have expired. That said, if you do this day to day for a living you're probably best not using a

[@Thingstest-rl8xu]

@@chillybrit2334 If the go same way as 110 and 66 types for 30+ years now. Expect problems with Krone knockoffs. Cheap Tools are bad enough, Cheap Terminals can be very bad in every way like punching either with professional grade "Harris" tool set for non cut and minimum force still break or cut the wire because of very sharp terminals etc.

[@anthonypurvis8619]

so do you not strip the wires of the coloured plastic? how does it make a connection if its still insulated. Im an absolute novice just trying to learn

[@Allegedly2right]

John you are the go to man can you do one on a brick wall in situ we’re the cuts are critical no where to lose cable,my router has 4 coming out so 4 to be fitted in one wall plate TRICKY cheers I know you don’t like leaving your chair haha

[@BarrieWSmith]

John, the wiring layout you show on the socket is different to an RJ45 socket I've just purchased. From the top mine in pairs is 2,8 1,7 6,4 3,5 . Any idea why?

[@jwflame]

Manufacturers can make them any way they want. Doesn't matter as long as the wires are connected to the correct terminals.

[@henrikjensen3278]

I am a bit surprised about your outlets, around here it is many years ago we needed a tool, it is build into the outlet as a lid you close over the connections. We also use a smaller module size, either 50x50mm or 50x75mm (This matches mains outlets and switches), I think it looks much better, but we have to pay a lot for it, because other countries uses a larger module size (I am in Denmark).

[@chillybrit2334]

The ones with the lids that push the cables down into the IDC connectors tend not to trim the excess off.

[@dlewis129]

Hi John. I want to wire an RJ45 socket then a plug on the other end to go into an Ethernet switch. Do you wire both ends as ‘B’ or is one end ‘A ‘ and one end ‘B’. Thank you

[@jwflame]

Both ends are the same, either both A or both B. A cable with A at one end and B at the other is only of use in obscure situations like connecting one computer directly to another, or two switches together that don't have a specific uplink port and also don't auto configure the port based on what's connected to them.

[@davidlewis4947]

@@jwflame thanks John

[@dinovugic7701]

why isn't there a ground wire for shielding? I plan to use this for audio, and need the shielding.

[@jwflame]

A version with a foil shield can be obtained. It is not intended for audio applications.

[@DerekHundik]

So which wires exactly carry internet signal from router to the box ? The reason im asking because in cat5 Im extending orange pair has no continuity.

[@jwflame]

For basic ethernet, green and orange pairs normally used, blue and brown are not. In theory you can just use two pairs and leave the other two unconnected - however those other pairs are used for other things such as POE and gigabit ethernet. Using an obviously damaged cable isn't a good idea either, even though it may appear to work.

[@DerekHundik]

@@jwflame Unfortunatelly I have to use this cable as it already goes under the floor to the basement tv room. Thanks for reply.

[@paulphillips675]

4 wires for 10/100Mbps but you need all 8 wires for a 1Gb connection

[@StepHen-ok8mo]

whats the tool called

[@DeakBrenan]

Punch-down tools (often called Krone tools as BT adopted the Krone standard for Cat 3 phone cable in 1865} are available on eBay for a fiver. Keep the screws tight as they fall apart with continuous use. When buying the plates and cabinet patch strips some are provided with a choice of colour schemes as stickers balled 256A and 256B. A is for America and B is British. To really impress the girls - double punch the wire withdrawing the tool on the second punch...

[@jerrymiller8313]

B is standard for data in the US A is the old phone standard.

[@ningis21]

If one wanted to have the two socket outlets wired in the same circuit, can jumper wires from one to the other be used or, is it possible to buy a twin unit, both sockets, one cable?

[@hawk_ness]

Ethernet does really work like that. You can't make a passive split.

[@Szlater]

I don’t think network cabling can work like that, you need a separate cable from a central network switch for every socket in a LAN. If you want to only run one cable, you would need to run the single cable to a socket, then use another network switch connected by a patch cable to that socket to enable multiple devices to connect to the LAN via that single socket.

[@patrickwigmore3462]

It makes no sense to join them together for Ethernet, because each cable needs to run directly from one device to another with no branching off. Typically, each socket will be connected directly to an individual port on an Ethernet switch, via a patch panel. However, sometimes the same sockets are used for things other than Ethernet. For example, analogue phone lines, AV signals or RS-485. Some of these other kinds of signals can be branched off, and you could probably punch two wires into one terminal to achieve that, though it''s probably not recommended. But you still shouldn't connect the sockets together, because it's non-standard and it will confuse and annoy someone in the future. It's normal practice to run a separate cable from each socket back to a patch panel somewhere, because then you can (in theory) route any sensible kind of signal from any socket to any other socket simply by rearranging patch cables on the patch panel, without having to do any rewiring.

[@jwflame]

One socket = one cable. Two sockets on one cable would work - but only if you used one socket at a time, which would make it entirely pointless.

[@Szlater]

Patrick Wigmore Yes, use patch panels, for God’s sake! And label them in a sane and easy to decode fashion!

[@nickpowell335]

Hi, just wondering if you could help, I've got some ethernet sockets in the wall that have been there since we moved in. I opened them up today and they're cat5e, we've just wired some of the house up with cat6 (B configuration). How do I make the sockets work with the cat6 cables? I've tried bluntly plugging something in, and it doesn't work. Each socket seem to be different also. I have been looking online and all the wiring orders are different from the diagrams on the socket, can I just ignore the socket diagram? Sorry I'm a bit of a noob xD

[@jwflame]

Colour codes for Cat5e andCat6 are the same. Every socket needs to use the same colour code.

[@nickpowell335]

@@jwflame That sounds logical, which makes this even more of a mystery. I'm not sure if it ever worked as it hasn't ever since we lived here. So I'm going to plug cat6 (B config) into it, and beyond the socket is cat5e wire. Is there a different wiring or socket depending on if it's A or B?

[@jwflame]

@@nickpowell335 A or B is just how the wires are connected, the sockets and plugs are physically identical.

[@Szlater]

Was that an old BT punch down tool?

[@jwflame]

No idea what make it was - it's many years old and hasn't got any markings on it.

[@johnclarke2997]

They can be bought on eBay for next to nothing.

[@Mark1024MAK]

It’s a tool designed for use with KRONE type terminals only. KRONE terminals being very common in the U.K. telecommunications sector.

[@nutsnproud6932]

I have a genuine BT punch down tool - the engineer left it behind. Great for ethernet too.

[@DiverseDialect]

What's this plier kinda tool called?

[@jwflame]

Usually 'RJ45 crimper' will find them.

[@listen2meokidoki264]

My socket is in-line from front to back and has no numbering. So I can't find my direction. ACtually it does have numbering. Not 1 to 8 rather 33,44,55,66. Whaterver!!! :)

[@insaneroguegamingchannel8038]

Can I connect the cable parallally?

[@johncoops6897]

Not legal to do this kind of work in Australia... all fixed network cabling must be laid and terminated by qualified persons. This relates to (is justified by) safety and separation from mains wiring. Note that in AU the mains wiring in walls and ceilings is NOT inside conduits, it's double-insulated but that's all.

[@Monkeh616]

It relates to and is justified by profiteering and corrupt politicians. Australia needs some fixing.

[@PaulF12354]

They level of skill here in England is not as good as OZ. There is so much information that is missed in this video to make it CAT5e compliant.

[@robertgaines-tulsa]

It's amazing that Cat5e is still valid twenty years after it became standardized.

[@belperite]

And amazing what transmission rates are possible now.

[@Mark1024MAK]

Why? The basics of copper transmission line have not changed. All that has happened, is cleverer ways of encoding data in the transmission. And the earlier technology did not actually use all the cores in the network cable, but now all cores may be used.

[@brianleeper5737]

Even more amazing is that most Cat5 cable actually meets Cat5E specs (usually the stuff from Commscope, Berk-Tek, etc. --manufacturers that weren't trying to make the cheapest product).

[@jordanrodrigues8265]

How about plain old telephone service (standardize since the1870s) and Edison screw-type lightbulb bases (since the 1880s)?

[@alext2933]

With Cat 7 being pretty cheap now (or even Cat 8 for a little more), why are you messing with yesterday's Cat 5, with much lower capability? All RJ 45 compatible. I am all Cat 7 for streaming tv and music.

[@jasonbillington3923]

no disrespect but the title of the video states connecting cat5e

[@brianleeper5737]

Have you actually tested that cable to be sure it meets Cat 7 specs, or are you just believing the claims of the cable manufacturer?

[@jordanrodrigues8265]

Cat 7 *FTP* is only backwards compatible with Cat 6 *FTP*. Unless you're buying things for a data center, almost all Ethernet devices require Cat 5E or Cat 6 *UTP*. *UTP* and *FTP* have never been compatible and Cat 7 *UTP* isn't defined by the spec. That's why you can only find "Cat7 UTP" cable from shady suppliers - quite frankly they're bullshitting you in a callow attempt to upsell and deserve none of your business. The problem is termination impedance, which I know is a bit esoteric. When signals are sent with a fast switching speed something special happens. (Analog bandwidth in MHz multiplied by length in meters exceeds about 50 mega-meters. This happens very quickly with a 200 MHz or faster standard!) The electrodynamic energy in the cable needs to be properly absorbed. If it's not a reflection will bounce off the end of the cable and return to the transmitter. "Properly absorbed" means that the receiver draws a specific amount of current proportional to the signal voltage *The termination current for FTP is 1/3 less than UTP* - it has 150 ohm termination impedance, not 100 ohm. Again, this has always been true and UTP and FTP have always been at least slightly incompatible. F/UTP (foil around the entire cable, not each pair) is reasonably compatible with UTP, but any cable that puts foil between the twisted pairs is not. So what? With 100Mbit Ethernet or slower you can easily get away with this. The reflected signal creates a standing wave, but this only degrades the signal-to-noise ratio. Each pair is used for signalling in only one direction. So, yes Cat 7 probably isn't going to prevent 100BASE-T from working properly. But why would you do that? 1Gbit and 10Gbit Ethernet attempt to use simultaneous bi-directional signaling using all four pairs. Reflections interfere with the opposite-direction link. This means, for example, that TCP ACK packets from your computer will reflect off of your router and interfere with the TCP payload packets. If the interference is strong enough to drop a packet, you can't ask the router for a retransmission (that's a WiFi feature not present in wired Ethernet or IP) so you end up waiting for the server to retransmit. And *that* causes it to slow down because of TCP congestion control. Bottom line: only install Cat 7 or later if you *actually have compatible devices,* such as 40GBASE-T or faster. It's a good idea to test with a proper cable analyzer too. For all normal electronics Cat 6A UTP is still the best Ethernet cable. If you're willing to spend a little more: buy it from a good supplier, not from the kind of chuklehead who will sell "Cat 7" for a home or office.

[@laurilink7512]

I think that this knife is way too small for cutting cable ties.

[@syang1490]

6:18 for those who are impatient.

[@EmmetFurey]

You fucking legend

[@garyslatter9854]

Thats when you discover you forgot to thread cables though box first!!

[@aigleblanc3966]

tu nas rien d'autres hi

[@josephking6515]

A couple of FYIs. The caps can also be used to punch down the wires into the block. The colour coding on that block is for an EIA/TIA 568a. If the Orange and Green pairs are swapped then it becomes an EIA/TIA 568b. If you put an EIA/TIA 568a at one end of you cable run and an EIA/TIA 568b at the other end then you get a crossover cable. Modern switches can handle this and will give you connectivity but really old one will likely not. Do *not* ask me how I know this. 🤦‍♂️ If you are going to be doing a lot of data cabling then get a better cable tester that has additional functionalities. I purchased one that has 8 Remote terminals which is real handy when doing multiple cables. I means you don't have to keep running back to the MDF to swap the Remote onto a different point to test. My one would also measure how far away a fault/break was on the cable and which wire in the paid was the culprit. This was a neat feature and quite handy for diagnosing a cable fault.

[@toshihitsu1989]

i have cut my hand open before uesing thoes punch down tools. it was not a very fun thing to exprions

[@johncoops6897]

Use the punch down tool on suitable insulation displacement sockets only. There is no reason to ever be pushing it anywhere near to your hands. Do not run when holding tools.

[@Mark1024MAK]

The only accidents I have heard about, is when the “user” of the tool forgets to correctly stow the wire removing “pick” at the handle end...

[@toshihitsu1989]

@@johncoops6897 its was under a desk and in a very bad place where i could not see and the punch had slip from the block and had hit my hand i was useing to brace my self it was a stupid move on my part i know that but you only learn for the thoes mstakes like that. i dont really warry about it any more as i have not really done any network in over 5 years may be a little at home but not in business from my last job.

[@hiltihome]

Unshielded twisted pair should not be used anymore. Especially in fixed installations.

[@Tekwyzard]

Why? Highly adept and very conscientious network technicians the world over have used UTP, and still use UTP, unless there is a specific need for extremely high immunity to external influences; in which case the much more expensive STP is used. STP offers no major speed advantages over UTP, it's just far less likely to be affected by interference, something that UTP is already highly resistant to, by virtue of the twists in the pairs. STP is also a right pain the arse to terminate properly so is not worth the large amount of extra time and effort unless it's really necessary.

[@hiltihome]

@@Tekwyzard Your point of view was common sens in the last century, but thing have changed. We are facing 10Gbit and more over twisted pair. For trouble free use, I would at least use CAT7. You may be right about the termination issue, but only if you use crappy sockets, like shown in the video.

[@scwfan08]

Who still uses Cat 5e in 2019? I've never used anything else than Cat 6A or 7 in years.

[@GrahamDIY]

I doubt most people need Cat 6 or greater Cat 5e is fine and cheap

[@leonblittle226]

Well considering the best UK internet connection in domestic use is about 350mb lots of people do, plus whats the point of fitting Cat7 when it's likely to be used for a CCTV camera or a phone line. Little bit of cable snobbery I feel.

[@scwfan08]

First of all I'm from Germany where of course different things apply. Secondly, it's not (entirely) about the speed beneficals but about the electro magnetic shielding which is provided by higher rated cables. And lastly, here you can't even buy Cat 5e anymore. At least I've never seen it being sold. Also Cat 7 is pretty cheap nowadays. You can get decent one for about 68€ per 100m.

[@Monkeh616]

​@@scwfan08 Shielding is unnecessary even for 10GigE operation - we're talking domestic here, not bundles of 300 cables. It creates an immense extra expense and hassle to effectively terminate for very little gain. As far as the ever classic "you can't even buy it any more", I'm positive that's a crock. I've found several sources in .de without even looking hard, via a search engine heavily biased not to show results in the wrong language..

[@g7mks383]

@@GrahamDIY I have use CAT 3 telephone cable for long runs with ethernet and never had any speed or curreption issues.

[@steveharris481]

Cat 5e very rarely fitted been cat 8 for last year or more each wire individually shielded

[@mehboobmohammed8988]

Know wonder it didn't work

[@johncoops6897]

Does consider knowledge function? PS: your comment makes no sense.

[@slyfondle1885]

@@johncoops6897 PS: Neither does yours.

[@johncoops6897]

@@slyfondle1885 - OF COURSE my comment doesn't make sense.