Constant Diameter End to End Splice

The Constant Diameter end-to-end splice can be difficult to achieve in certain types of line. It works best in a "normal" double braid polyester line. It is best if the cover and the core have about the same diameter, or amount of material as each other.

[@SamuelLanghorn]

By far the best video on this topic. Thank you. Much better than these lab style, clean table instructions with annoying music. The only thing missing is showing how to do the stitching at the end. Cheers.

[@aboyFinn]

Followed your instructions (by rote) for my main furler. Turned out great. And the beer is an essential part of the procedure; comes in right near the end of the job.

[@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307]

Sound like you got the most important part down pat.

[@fletcherm181]

extremely detailed and helpful, will use this for replacing my furling line. Thanks for posting!

[@drivingmsali]

I know this is an old video but it is still great! Thank you!

[@billf.7991]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am splicing some Sta-Set 1/2" dia. Very detailed and informative vid. Thanks much!

[@lelandhubble287]

The Guinness is the most important part. Great Video!

[@growleym504]

That's a great way to make a smooth running end for end splice in a line where the full breaking strength of the rope will never be needed. Strange that I never though of doing it that way. I always either used the standard old fashioned C*nt Splice when no small sheavs and stuff are to be encountered, and where they are, I stagger the join of the core a bit away from the join of the cover, and tuck splice the strands of the core end for end by pairs, then tuck splice the covers together by pairs of strands. This retains a LOT of the breaking strength with a very small increase in diameter because the core and the cover joins are not one on top the other, but it takes a while to do and wastes more rope. I like the looks of the method you show here and it is fast and neat. If more strength were needed, you could simply double the mark distances to make a longer overlap, but again, strength is usually more than what is needed anyway. Since you aren't burying a crossover I guess you could make them as long as you like. I am really liking that splice. Great vid, thanks for making it and posting it. BTW I have never liked the "special" fids and pusher kits they sell so dearly for double braid. I use a coathanger or piano wire, or bigger wire if required for the rope size, I run it doubled from the exit mark back down to the insertion mark, capture the end I want to pull through in the bight, sometimes apply a little electrical tape over the doubled end, and pull it through. I have had to splice new eyes in ships' mooring lines up to 12" (circumference not diameter LOL) and if they make a fid for that size, I have never seen it.

[@dynesfuglsanghansen692]

Now thats the craftmans touch! I went with the very schematic tutorials provided by one of the rope suppliers - and ended up with a hollow space between the ends of the cores (in my endless »2 geared« mainsheet) after some load. Devil is in the detail, and of course you need to induce some serious stretch in the process to match the real deal. I need to redo! Very good laid out.Thanks

[@jpriestl]

Great tutorial, was able to replace the in-mast furling line.

[@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307]

Really glad you found it helpful Jim.

[@russg7880]

Great ! And good rope handling tips

[@jensmith2460]

This is from SSMR, Inc. I can't comment on these videos any longer it seems. Please free to email us directly or give us a call. I'm always happy to chat. Steve Smith

[@wtf-goingon813]

nice

[@fugue137]

Very nice! What does it mean when I can't get the fid through the doubled section between marks 2 and 3 on the first pass? Assuming my fid isn't too big (my chandlery's fids didn't come with instructions, but the rigger pointed me to them when I asked about splicing 8mm; it's a 6mm fid the same shape as yours). I'm trying on an older line---the best one I've found for friction in my continuous-line furler. Is this easy on some line and not on others? Any suggestions for high friction line for a furler and also not too difficult to splice? Bonus points if it's available in Canada :D

[@jensmith2460]

Hi Ben, I had to make an account for my wife to be able to comment here on my own video. Go figure. I have just about given up on this platform. Anyway, a good rule of thumb that I've always followed is to use the smallest fid that works. And also to try to avoid splicing used line whenever possible. As a matter of fact, if a customer wants me to splice his used line. I do it at an hourly rate rather than my usual splice charge. The line that I have been pretty loyal to and which I have never had a problem with is New England Rope. Sta-Set is a good polyester yacht braid that works well is continuous line furlers as long as it is sized properly. Meaning you want to use the largest size that fits into the sheave well without jamming anywhere. Good luck and please feel free to call or email.

[@fugue137]

@@jensmith2460 Thank you! Yeah, KZbin is kind of troubling, isn't it? Just a followup: I was using old line (looking up Sta-Set, it appears that that's what I have! Thanks!! I guess either it'll be easier to splice if I get a new piece, or I still suck at splicing) because I can confirm that it does indeed work well in my Ronstan series 80 furler. The brand-new correctly-sized yacht braid provided by my local sailmaker, usually an extremely knowledgeable resource, didn't generate enough friction in the furler's drum (more slippery, and about 0.6 mm smaller diameter), so I was wary of trying something else unproven. BUT I got your splice in my old Sta-Set to work by pulling in a couple of tips from www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/splicing.8117/ , soaking the line in water to lubricate it and maybe remove some salt (so taping the ends was no longer possible), and most importantly, throwing away my fid in favour of a bent-wire rope-puller. I'll also add that I *think* next time I won't pull the crossover quite so tight, as the loop has just a little bit of a bulge there that I can feel when it runs through the drum. Does that make sense?

[@gilbet]

Great video! So, the video begins with taking each end of the rope and grabbing it about two feet from the end and pulling out the last two feet of the core, which leaves the last two feet of the ends of the rope hollow, so the outside portion of each end of the rope can each be threaded through each other. I didn’t see what happened to the the two-foot section of core that was pulled out from each end of the rope at the beginning. Were they just cut off and discarded?

[@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307]

Sorry, I haven't been here in a while. Anyway, it's not simply the last two feet of core. The measurements are pretty important. Every line diameter requires different measurements. But essentially, you're right in that the section of core is discarded. The reason for this is that the splice is constant diameter. If the core were to be incorporated into the splice, the diameter would be larger in that area. As it is in the throat of a regular eye splice.

[@bnscub5650]

Moon

[@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307]

your post confuses me.

[@ricklodwick5514]

After several unsuccessful attempts to get the fid passed the core within the sleeve I used a small amount of marine grease on the taped line going into the fid. The next attempt went through without difficulty.

[@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307]

I've never tried grease. Seems like it might be a bit messy. But hey, whatever works. I have had success using a bit of talcum powder on occasion.

[@fugue137]

@@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307 To what extent could grease weaken the splice? If you use grease, should you run the line through the washing machine a few times to remove that, or run a dozen lines of stitching rather than just one?

[@jensmith2460]

@@fugue137 Hi Ben, I would definitely recommend removing as much as the grease as possible from the splice. Washing the line in a mesh bag would certainly help with that. But just using some mineral spirits might be good enough. Extra stitching never hurts too.

[@k3rnell]

What tool You're using to push throught the rope shield?

[@ssmrinc.sailboatriggers8307]

Sorry for not answering earlier. Don't check in here as often as I should. Those are called Fids. I made mine on a lathe. But you can purchase many different types of fids from your marine store or online. They usually come with instructions and measurements for different line sizes and types.

[@learigg]

Great video but I think you have a mistake where you insert the outer. 5.16 in at 1st mark and out at 3rd, correct. 6.03 in at 2nd mark and out at 3rd, incorrect, should be in at 1st and out at 3rd mark.

[@Ingeanous]

SSMR doing a re-rig on our boat... new.diysailor.com/?p=3928

[@theowenssailingdiary5239]

how much strength is lost with this splice?

[@SamuelLanghorn]

50% is lost. keep in mind that your furling line is not optimized for strength but for handling and maintaining the same diameter. If you need to splice for strength you obviously need a different splice.