Cool design FEATURES #1

[@chyrt]

man I really love you have been returning to the content like it used to be

[@dirtygarageguy]

That's it. More del videos

[@kacperchrusciel890]

I love these old style videos !

[@deansamuelson4441]

Nice presentation Matt, concise information and for me enlightening because I've never seen this cam adjuster before.

[@gafrers]

You are on a roll with these Tech and hands-on videos 👌👌

[@keithf8890]

Had them on a JMC arm,back in the day.

[@essexhognose1808]

I had them on my Triumph Trophy

[@BrUnO18150]

What i dont like about this is that you modify the rear ride height quite a bit more than the standard or more usual system.

[@dirtygarageguy]

And why would that matter? Like I said, in this set-up its 19mm max, which is more like half that, and that isn't the ride height change. For that you need a little pi...

[@BrUnO18150]

@@dirtygarageguy 10mm of change in the rear height is a thing.

[@katywalker8322]

10mm of seat height change is a significant issue for some people.

[@RedRupert64]

The plates that KTM and others use, make more sense. They're lighter, easier and cheaper to manufacture, and allow for different lengths of chain, as they can be rotated 180°to allow for this. Also, the above design allows easy chain removal by pulling the plate just clear of the adjuster bolt, thus allowing the spindle/wheel to move forward enough to get the chain off. This method means that chain adjustment is not distributed when removing the wheel. Simple and basic maintenance will prevent the adjuster bolt seizing into the swinging arm (a smear of grease once every five to seven years should do the trick). When adjusting the chain, which is not often these days, simply count the number of flats turned on the adjuster bolt - do the same each side, and your wheel will stay in line. Never go by the marks on the adjuster - measure from the SA pivot to the rear spindle when you first get the bike; even better, if you're capable (which I'm not) set the rear wheel straight compared to the front wheel using long straight edges, or the like, when you first acquire the bike.

[@gpzfan5272]

Love an eccentric adjuster, much better than the regular lock nut shite design.

[@Honkawsuzyamal]

Love an eccentric Yorkshire KZbin presenter. Much better than a regular Wimborne Del-eeter.

[@ANDYblacks13]

The vfr800 has a nice oversized version of this ,yea we know you don't like single sided but the engineering is nice to play with

[@Wayne1977]

I much prefer those round axel adjusters and wish my current bike had them.

[@H-M-78]

Yes, same here. And the ability to rise or lower the bike with just 1 or 2 allen keys is gold

[@seanylewl]

I know these are the norm on single sided swingarms, are there any bikes that use this design on double sided swingarms?

[@Mtthwpez]

Kawasaki use these a lot on their bikes. They currently have them on the Z1000SX, but have had them on various models since the GPZ900 in the 80's.

[@boneav83]

@@Mtthwpez My '21 Ninja 1000SX has them

[@chrisdavidson911]

Suzuki Goose SG350

[@katywalker8322]

A lot of Bimotas used this system

[@mygreatbigfoot1679]

Are the ends of the swingin arms connecting by the weld alone or have they got a bit inserted like -= shoved inside, before the weld?

[@stevesanelli90]

Hey Matt, that swingarm is exactly the swingarm i was talking about how can you use a rule/caliper/measurement device to position the chain adjusters each side if the rear most faces aren't flat/perpendicular to the axle to swingarm pivot C/L. I cant use this method on my Ducati Pantah because it is a tube swingarm & internal adjusters with studs & nuts plus the end caps are chamfered. I use an old draftsmans long slide compass to measure from the pivot C/L to the axle C/L each side. What swingarm are those eccentric adjusters from? A Yamaha? Edit: From a Kawasaki Ninja assassin

[@bananabrooks3836]

Snail cams pros and cons? Not substantial enough over certain parameters?

[@timsouthern4569]

My zzr hashish system

[@technodaz]

To be honest I get about 4-5000km out of a rear tire and chain wise twice a year or so and its getting more and more expensive the bigger the bike I got. Now I always get the best I can because my mechanic says drive the bike hard and its in all weathers. But next bike I get I'd rather just get a shaft drive like his GTR , all the speed and less of the hassle and none of the adjustments.

[@tcwracing]

4k on tires are you riding slicks on the road?

[@technodaz]

@@tcwracing Michelin road 4 bandit 1250 ,I drive 80km a day to work and back 6 days a week and motorway squares them off quick at the speed I do every day. Back roads and b roads to work are usually covered in cow shit so I tend to only go on them when its dry ...which is not often in Ireland.

[@ianhoyle8459]

Nice content Matt and yesterday’s. I like this design Kawasaki.

[@noggintube]

Had them on an old ZRX1100, they make chain adjustment so easy.

[@sidwainhouse]

1984 MK2 Ford Fiesta, but not the XR2...

[@SixWheelsDown]

what did i just watch?

[@glyn7005]

Really timely content - I have a pair of these salvaged from a GPZ1000RX and I am looking to replace the sliding block arrangement in my Spondon swing arm. The fact that a rotary adjuster will change the axle height at '6 and 12' oclock isn't entirely irrelevant. In a racing application this can be a tool to control squat when accelerating out of a corner. Ohlins published a 4 page doc on this subject decades ago. Kevin Cameron discusses this in the Cycleworld podcast about final drive types - I've copied the link for anyone who wants to take a look. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZ_Rk3Wgm9GekLssi=zzbF_MKcHZ_SlJ3e&t=1063

[@UnCivilEngineerIRL]

Adjust the chain ? Why ? 😂 I know a guy that does 20k miles every winter and he rarely needs to adjust his chain ... although he does change them pretty often 🤔😅