Cooling System Flush

[@-gnbuilders-6233]

Thanks for telling people not to get rid of the constant tension clamps. Lots of people think that they are doing an upgrade when converting to screw type clamps which is a big mistake.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, I can't remember who first told me about the constant tension clamps but it really does make sense how they are superior because as the rubber ages and shrinks a bit, a constant tension clamp will keep a tight clamp on the hose while the screw type will need to be tightened to achieve tightness again.

[@reginaldlancaster8718]

Cooling system flush

[@justicegusting2476]

I appreciate the fact that you not only address the how, but you also address the why, as well, which adds insight to the process.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear you appreciate the way we cover the subject matter. It really is important to share the reason why something is being done so people understand the process better. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@kenjithomas]

Hi Timmy. Your advice at the end of the video is exactly how I keep the engine cooling system of my 2010 Mazda 5 in great condition. I just drain the used coolant and put new coolant every year. Coolant is cheap. The procedure is very easy. No need to flush with water. It's like having a regular oil change. Preventive maintenance is the key. Also, your video is very clear because you mentioned the right way to calculate the ratio of coolant and water since there are still water left inside the engine block after draining. Other guys here at YT failed to mention it. I am now a subscriber on your channel. Cheers from Japan.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, we're on the same page when it comes to doing regular maintenance on our vehicles. Preventative maintenance is so important for the longevity of a vehicle. We're glad you liked our video, and thanks for subscribing to our channel.

[@SammyEddie]

I don’t make many comments on KZbin, but you are hands down the coolest (no pun intended) guy ever to post such a great video and then comment so kindly to people on the internet. Been kinda bummed out on how mean people are nowadays. It’s good to know there are people like you left in the world. My truck is 2002 Tacoma and I’ve never changed the coolant. 209,000 mi. I have work to do this weekend. Thank you sir.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Sammy, thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it very much. Sean and I love helping people out and we think it's very important to acknowledge every comment that comes into our channel and answer every question. We sometimes miss comments and questions but one of us checks our channel almost everyday to keep on top of things. Good luck with the coolant renewal and you know where to find us if you ever have any questions. Happy Wrenching Brother!

[@SammyEddie]

Timmy The Toolman just subscribed. If it weren’t 1am I’d go flush my truck now, but wife might make me wear that white jacket with the sleeves that tie in the back, again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@SammyEddie Yeah, some of our jobs have taken us into the wee hours but that was out of necessity because we had to get the person we were helping back on the road. We've performed many all-day jobs in my garage.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Since filming this video, I've learned you only need the heater temperature control knob turned to full hot, BUT you don't need to have the fan on. Turning the temperature control knob to full hot fully opens up the valve and lets the hot coolant flow through the heater core. With the fan on, it draws heat away from the engine and might not allow the thermostat to open fully because the engine isn't reaching full operating temperature. SO, I SUGGEST KEEPING THE FAN OFF FOR THIS PROCEDURE. Update 06/2023 - As part of the cylinder head replacement we did on Sean's 2002 4runner, we did a cooling system flush. When we drained the coolant out of the radiator, we only got out around 5.5 - 6 quarts. The system holds over 8 quarts. So, we did loosen the block drain on the passenger side of the engine block. We accessed the drain through the passenger side wheel well with a long extension and 14mm socket. When we opened it up, a lot of coolant drained out. So, if the same thing happens to you and you don't get close to 8 quarts out from the radiator drain, I suggest opening the block drain to get most of the rest out.

[@Winslow273]

Did you use the block drains to drain the block? If you do, does that get you down to nearly empty on the coolant before a fill?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Winslow273 No, we didn't bother with draining the block. On a T4R.org, a guy showed a picture of how much he got out from draining the block. It looked like at most a half pint to me so I personally don't think it's worth the trouble to drain. Draining the block will still leave residual in the engine, heater core, heater core lines and rear heater lines. So no, draining the block doesn't get you down to empty.

[@Jc-ln5rc]

Hey really great video man. Do you think it would be a good idea to remove the thermostat for the flush?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Jason Ramkishun Hey Jason, some people do remove the thermostat to expedite the flush procedure. But, removing the water neck, pulling the thermostat and then putting it back in takes some time as well. So, what you have to figure out is the time you're saving waiting for the engine to reach operating temperature so the thermostat opens on each round of flushing worth the extra labor of pulling the thermostat and replacing it after the flush procedure. I decided I didn't want to pull the thermostat and would just deal with the extra time needed to get the engine to operating temperature each time.

[@siamean1]

...but I keep it in on to know when the heater coils are filled with coolant.

[@ravenfeather7087]

Replaced the radiator on my 1997 Toyota Tacoma yesterday using this process. 2.7 liter. No air. Did 4 flushes with distilled water and the discharge water became clear. Ran the front end up a ramp which raised the front 6 inches higher than the rear. The same type funnel. Drained the system and got 6 quarts of liquid. The total capacity of the system according to the owners manual is 8.8 quarts so added approximately 2.8 quarts of concentrated antifreeze (equal to the 2.8 quarts of liquid remaining in the system after it being drained [ 8.8-6]). And filled the remainder with 50:50 mix. This process worked well but I paid too much for the funnel (from O'Reilly), about $45. Had some trouble finding a decent radiator and had to wait about 5 days for the hoses. About $55 for the hoses. About $165 for the radiator (NAPA). All things included in this replacement cost between $400 and $500. The old hoses appeared to be in excellent condition. The engine nozzles that the hoses slide onto were corrosion free. The truck is not driven in the winter so everything is pretty much pristine in regard to corrosion. Slightly over 300K and going strong. MANY things live in the water. Insects, amphibians, reptiles, mammals, avians, fish, bacteria, and a wide variety of aquatic plants. The "scum" you referred to is probably algae (Perhaps the stuff even in your system. Amphibians live both in the water and on land. Thanks again for the video. It made this an easy process.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job getting the job done and glad our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@GreenMonkiCoffee2008]

Great Toyota videos. I have a 2003 4Runner 4.7 and a 2007 Camry XLE 2.4l. Going to flush both and not knowing what was used previously, both have green fluid, I am going to replace with OEM. On both vehicles I am replacing radiator hoses, heater hoses, thermostat and related hoses which I would thing remove more old fluid from the system. Was going to drain the block but after watching your method, it proves to be a much safer process as if the drain on the block snapped I am screwed. 126k on both vehicles. Tired of paying people that supposedly did the work but found out later on it was never done. Thanks for all the great help on this channel

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Good luck with the cooling system flushes on your vehicles.

[@fozzir]

This has got to be the most thorough video cover of a system flush. I highly doubt when you take your car to one of the oil change places they are near this detailed of care of you car. I'm going to follow this method! Thanks for the video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. Good luck with the flush, and you're very welcome.

[@roadlesstraveledd]

You are the first one to explain this process thoroughly thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and thanks for the comment.

[@ravenfeather7087]

Doing this after in order to replace the radiator on my 1997 (300,100 miles). Had a hell of a time getting any help from my closest Toyota dealer which is 60 miles away. She (parts woman) wanted me to drive 120 miles to buy the Toyota Red for don't know how much money - probably a bunch. I looked at the manual and it says use ethylene glycol (the green stuff). The green stuff (Prestone) cost about $11.00 locally. Guess which I bought. Great video. Thanks. I'm going to buy one of the super-duper funnels but it'll be the first time I've ever had to use something like that after refilling a cooling system. But it'll be fun burping Sweetie (that's my sweet Toyota's name) after all the work has been done.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Zerex makes a Japanese vehicle red coolant as well if you don’t want to go Toyota. Not sure about the green stuff.

[@ravenfeather7087]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. I've been using Prestone for years (close to 60 years actually) and have never hand any issues with it. Of course today's vehicles are in general longer lived than old ones. My manual says, "Your coolant must contain ethylene-glycol antifreeze.", so, by God, who am I to not listen to the manufacturers of the best vehicles on the planet? I think that when I bought my Yota it had green coolant in it and the pink is a relatively new product. A friend told me the pink is organic. I think he meant it's more environmentally friend and less toxic to critters like kids and cats (and groundwater, surface water, etc.) Don't know for sure what the chemical components are and the parts lady didn't know either. Anyway it'll be Prestone green for me for a while. Thanks again for an excellent video. I appreciate someone being able to communicate well. I found the use of distilled water interesting. It makes sense but for years, again about 60, I''ve been using well water to mix with the anti-freeze. And I know most of the water I have used has some calcium in it. I never noticed any issues but today's vehicles last a lot longer than they used to. And Prestone advertises that their coolant "Instantly protects against rust and corrosion" but also states "Water quality matters. Use only distilled water.". So it looks like I'll be using distilled water for at least the last flush.

[@ajmass7]

love the idiocracy reference. BRAWNDO, it's what 4Runners CRAVE

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Awesome Zach. Great job recognizing that movie quote.

[@Johnslist]

Such an underrated movie, I thought I was the only one who got it (the movie).

[@mileseubanks5104]

Just replaced my radiator, both hoses, and cap (OEM) and did 2 flushes with the help of your videos. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job Miles. Great to hear our video helped you out. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@bobgetler8301]

Hi Timmy, Thank you for the video. A quick point - 50/50 mix will *not* get you to 50/50 final if there is any water in the system. Sienna coolant capacity is 3 gallons. So, let's say for discussion you can drain 2 gallons. 1 gallon of water remains in the system. There is no amount of 50/50 solution you can add to get the final system to 50/50 since it has no extra concentration (beyond 50/50) to treat the 1 gallon of water remaining. You can drain and fil ten times with 50/50 and you still would not get to 50/50 - though you would be close. I suggest you use 50/50 to top off. Use concentrate to drain fill with the use of the hydrometer to get to your final 50/50. Concentrate is typically cheaper per gallon (of actual coolant product). I realize you made your own 50/50 mix out out concentrate. If someone decides the 1 gallon of water is fine not to be dealt that is up to them. However, I politely suggest people need to understand they can not get the system back to 50/50 after adding/flushing distilled water by pouring 50/50 coolant in.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I agree with everything you said. This is why we figured out how much distilled water was left in the system and then added that same amount in concentrate into the radiator first to make the residual left in the system a 50/50 mix. Then we finished by topping if off the rest of the way with a 50/50 mix. The problem for some people is they can't buy an OEM concentrate for their rig. The newer Toyota rigs that call for the pink 50/50 coolant can't buy a 100% pink coolant concentrate. But, what I've told these people is to not worry about it. If they flushed the system, just fill it with a 50/50 mix and call it a day. There's not enough distilled water left in the system to lose sleep over it. Now, for people who live in cold climates, they might want to run an aftermarket concentrate so they can get the ratio to a 50/50 or possibly higher coolant to water ratio in extremely cold climates. But, for most people, a mix close to 50/50 is going to be just fine.

[@robertrab2563]

Hi I am happy to see someone that does this job the right way . Using distilled water to flush and knows how to refill it and still end up having a 50 50 mix and I bet if he had all concntrat coolent he would have mix it with distilled water to have the 50 50 mix.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Robert.

[@maritimezhang]

lets say i did the same thing but with only 50 50 mix. I understand it might be a waste of the coolant, but isn't that fool proof on the mix?

[@davidsheldon481]

Great video once again. I perfomed this after changing timing belt and water pump since everything was already drained. Lisle sprill free funnel was worth the money and I would never perform another radiator flush without one. Keep up the great videos and toyota time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks David. We love hearing about people having success with our videos. It never gets old. Thanks for sharing. Happy Wrenching Brother!

[@nutz4gunz457]

The 50/50 pink coolant is for the newer Toyotas (mid 2000's). It is not premixed red coolant and shouldn't be mixed with the red coolant.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

At first, I thought you were right because I called my local Toyota dealer and spoke with a mechanic who confirmed what you said. The red and pink coolant aren't compatible. So, I added a disclaimer to this video and reposted it so I wouldn't give out bad information. Today, another subscriber tells me the coolants are indeed compatible and Toyota put out a service bulletin confirming this. Here's the TSB: www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/ENGINE_COOLANT_COLOR_CHANGE_T-PG010-02.pdf So for those reading this, TOYOTA RED IS COMPATIBLE WITH TOYOTA 50/50 PINK.

[@TheKapplebee]

Timmy The Toolman. Good deal... I've converted my 2001 4R sport to G-05 10 years ago. I just recently converted my Sequoia also. The red and pink are almost $30/gal at the dealer here. You or your 4runner buddies looking for a 3.4 supercharger? I have a low mileage 20k one from my Tacoma that was bought back from frame rust a few years ago.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'll ask around. I bet Sean knows somebody that would be interested. Sean knows all kinds of dudes that live to mod their 3rd Gens. I'll ask him.

[@joscastro1984]

kapple17 sorry to butt in but in but I'm looking for a super charger for the 3.4

[@TheKapplebee]

joscastro1984 where are you located?

[@stevejette2329]

My 1994 3.0 which was SO HORRIBLY neglected and abused had so much rust that the small coolant hose from the block to the back of the throttle body was COMPLETELY PLUGGED for three inches with mud, rust flakes, fibers from the crumbling hose. No wonder the throttle body couldn't keep a good idle. I will close the heaters, drain the anti-freeze, run water thru, etc. Will flush heaters separately to avoid further gunk getting in there. I don't know how people can abuse a vehicle like this ! THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS !!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

steve jette good luck And Sicmods!!

[@danielvoulkos8274]

Thanks so much Timmy. Lifesaver. Just picked up a 98 4Runner and going through all the fluids and plugs. Your thought on a little seafoam to the autotrans fluid, I hear good and bad stories.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've never heard of anyone using Seafoam in the auto trans. I wouldn't do it. Transmission fluid has good detergent qualities as is. I'd just renew the fluid, and that's it.

[@danielvoulkos8274]

I pretty much thought that way too. Thank you for the answers to my questions, they are much appreciated.@@TimmyTheToolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@danielvoulkos8274 You're welcome.

[@brucewayne2773]

Agreed, those oem C hose clamps are the best. Never should be replaced with those screw in type of clamps. Thank you for another great video. I know many shops uses only tap water since they don't care. I always use distilled water.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video Batman. Yep, the constant tension clamps are far superior to the screw-down style clamps. When I worked at a gas station in the 80's, we never used distilled water, we used tap water. Knowing what I know now, that was a mistake. Some people still flush their cooling systems with tap water but I would never do it.

[@brucewayne2773]

@@TimmyTheToolman Heck, 20 years ago we did not even know what distilled water was. Just glad it is easily available for around $1/gallon now a days

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@brucewayne2773 I remember using distilled water to add to batteries when I worked at a Chevron gas station in the early 80's but I just didn't know it should be used in the cooling system.

[@leifrudd8934]

excellent vid. just completed a full system flush, thermostat replacement and refill using these steps. the lisle funnel is an excellent product. thanks for recommending it and demonstrating its use. something i noted is how the burps trail off as the engine temp rises, and then start anew once the thermostat opens. this should be obvious with any scrutiny, but the funnel makes this trivially easy to follow if you're in the driver's seat looking at the coolant temp rising via a scangauge. thanks for posting this and all your vids!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear you found the video helpful and you appreciate our funnel suggestion. That funnel was suggested on a thread on T4R.org so I decided to get myself one too.

[@gerrybaker7055]

I doubt it caused much issue using so little of the concentrate, but from what I've learned is that the Long life (concentrate you used) and super long life 50-50 are actually different coolants. The concentrate is Toyota red and the 50-50 is Toyota pink. The chemical makeup is a bit different. For whatever reason Toyota doesn't even sell the pink in a concentrate, but I ended up buying a different brand with the same ingredients/purpose as the pink in a concentrate

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Gerry Baker They are different coolants, but according to a TSB from Toyota, they are compatible.

[@steveblack5230]

This guys is great and likable. He is the "Jeremy Wade" and instead of catching fish, he knows about Toyotas.......

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Steve. I've seen that guy's show many times. Don't know how much I look like him but I'll consider it a compliment.

[@SiMahDan]

You will find prestone cooling system flush kits at almost every car parts store in America. make this the job much easier once installed and completely fully flushes the cooling system. Fittings include a t-shaped tubing insert that gets installed and the pressure hose for the heater core. It has a cap to seal it off when not in use. When flushing the kit includes a anti-siphon fitting that you attach the garden hose to.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I know these kits exist but what I don't like is using municipal tap water to flush it out. The whole reason why you use distilled water is it's void of minerals that can corrode your cooling system. So, I would never recommend people use one of these kits. I know it takes more time the way we do it but our way only uses distilled water and not tap water.

[@ruhtra5602]

Nice diy tutorial. This is how I calculate the 50/50 mix of coolant. For 9.5 liters, divide 9.5 by 2, 9.5/2 = 4.75L of coolant and 4.75L of D water. 1 gallon of 100% coolant is 3.78 L. Subtract 3.78 to 4.75, 4.75-3.78 = .97L or 1 Liter of 100% coolant more. If your second gallon of coolant is 50/50 mix, you have to multiply 1 Liter by 2. 1 x 2 = 2L of 50/50 mix coolant. So 1 gallon of 100% coolant plus 2 Liters of 50/50 mix coolant and the rest is distilled water.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Meticulous work! We like it 👍🏻

[@derekmoore1387]

I appreciate your videos so much. You've helped me save a lot of money and feel empowered about maintaining my own vehicle.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's nice to know you've saved a lot of money using our videos and it's empowered you to turn wrenches on your vehicle. If you have a 10.5 quart capacity, measure what you drained out on the final flushing round and subtract that from 10.5. This will tell you how much distilled water you have left in the system. Whatever value you get, first add that amount in concentrate to the radiator so it will make what's left in the system a 50/50 mix. Then simply top off the system with a 50/50 mix and burp the system of air.

[@derekmoore1387]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@derekmoore1387 You're welcome!

[@infiniteriver93]

Excellent video! Thank you very much for going into detail for us newbies who have never done this. I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla and the coolant I think had 80k miles on it and it was looking black. It took 4 flushes before it came out clear. The cooling system capacity for the 2001 Toyota Corolla is 6 quarts. And exactly 4 quarts came out of the radiator. So 2 quarts left in the engine block and heater core. So I added 2 quarts of the full strength red and then did 50 50 mix with distilled water after. Thanks for explaining the math part of it. Other videos on this subject didn't do that. I didn't have the fancy drain kit which I wish I had looking back. I used a cheap $1 funnel and the issue with that was after adding about 2 quarts to radiator it backed up and then I had to slowly add the final two quarts a little at a time while gently shaking the radiator to get the air bubbles out. The brackets that are holding my radiator are broke and need replacing but it made it easier to shake the air bubbles out. My overflow reservoir is under the battery and I didn't want to take that out, so I got some 3/8 inch tubing from Home Depot and a turkey baster and siphoned the old stuff out and flushed it with distilled water and then siphoned that. The Toyota parts guy said for Toyotas 2004 and older use the red long life, not the pink super long life. But then I have a mechanic neighbor who said that is bs. So I don't know about that. I have a couple of questions. I think I got all the air bubbles out but if I didn't, is it that big a deal? Basically they will work themselves out of the system while driving and then I'll just have to add a little more fluid right? Also you were saying that if you regularly flush just the radiator then you don't have to do the whole system flush. After how many miles do you do a radiator only flush to avoid having to do the whole system? Anyway, thank you very much for this video, made this project totally doable for someone like me who has never worked on anything under the hood. Cheers!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

First of all, we're glad you found our video helpful and it enabled you to complete this job on your own. In regards to the compatibility of the pink and red coolants, there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) saying they are completely compatible but the link I provided in the video description isn't working anymore. I think it's next to impossible to get all the air bubbles out of the system on the first try. Every time I have renewed my coolant, the level in my reservoir always drops when I check it a day or two afterward letting me know more air worked it's way out of the system. Just top off your reservoir to the appropriate level based off whether your engine is cold of hot. I usually wait until the engine is hot and then top off the reservoir level to the upper or hot mark. To keep the cooling system in good shape, I like to renew my coolant every 30,000 miles. I know some coolants have higher mileage ratings but I don't feel comfortable waiting 50k or 100k to renew the coolant. Plus, it's super easy to do. Just open up the valve at the bottom of the radiator, preferably drain it into a container with graduated level marks so you know how much came out, and then refill it with a 50/50 mix. If you keep your coolant in good shape, you'll never have to perform a full flush again. Happy Wrenching!

[@infiniteriver93]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks very much for taking the time to reply and answer my questions, I really appreciate it!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@infiniteriver93 You're welcome. We try to answer all questions and acknowledge all comments that we get on our channel. It's takes some time on our part but we're not so big that we can't handle the number of questions and comments that come in on a daily basis. If we got really big, then it would become an issue because I imagine it would become a full-time job to handle all the questions and comments that come in. But, we're not there yet so anyone that asks a question or makes a comment will get a response from either Sean or I. Take care.

[@2xl830]

I gave aged two years just waiting for the topic to be done

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Wow! You better stop watching our very detailed and helpful DIY Automotive videos. We wouldn't want you to become an old man in a wheel chair before your time. There's lots of other DIY Automotive channels that don't offer the detail ours does so maybe watch the other channels. When you get lost watching their videos, you can come back to our channel.

[@V211-e9o]

A few things I have learned from owning Toyota's; use Toyota Red, do not mix the red with any green coolant as it can cause problems. That is probably why he is replacing his radiator. You can also drain the block on Gen3 4Runners, guessing you can on this one.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, it's usually not good mixing coolants but a lot are compatible now. The 3.4 liter has a block drain but the amount you get out is pretty insignificant, like a 1/2-1 pint at most. So, I've never bothered with it. Draining out what's in the radiator gets most of the coolant out of the system, so unless I'm doing a flush, I just drain the radiator and overflow container, fill it up with a fresh 50/50 mix, burp the system and make sure the level is good in the overflow and call it a day.

[@kylek7759]

Litterally my problem hahah

[@ryansmith616]

The prestone radiator flush actually worked pretty damn well for me. Mine flushed clear after two rounds of distilled water. I didn't really have to run my system all that long.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear Ryan. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@craigiefconcert6493]

Thanks for all the great Toyota videos! So for you helped me out with the coolant flush I’m doing now and also with the transmission drain and fill I just did. I didn’t have a helper so I didn’t do the full drain like you guys did and I’ll do that next time after I know it’s shifting fine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Craig. Just do a couple more drain and refills of the trans pan spread out by around 5k miles or time it with your engine oil changes. After the 3rd drain and refill, the fluid will be in good shape.

[@condor5635]

One thing I do when refilling is to shake the vehicle hard. I have found that that dislodges bubbles and allows the fluid to fill the voids. Works awesome in my Suburban. Give it a try instead of just watching the funnel. Great video. Very important to describe like you did the total capacity of the system and the drain amounts. Doing the distilled 4-5 times is what I do. But you have to know and understand the amounts so you can figure out how much pure concentrate is needed. In almost all other video I have seen they mistakingly use 50/50 pre-mix not knowing what you point out. In almost all cases you MUST use 100 % concentrate to adjust for the distilled water in the block/core and ultimately achieve ~50/50 mixture for the overall system.. great job!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hmmm, shaking the vehicle. I can see how that would work. Thanks for sharing. It seemed logical to me that there's obviously still distilled water in the system in the engine block, heater core and heater lines so you'd have to first figure out what's left in there, add an equal amount of 100% coolant concentrate to make what's left in the system a 50/50 mix and then finish by topping it off with 50/50 mix. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@Ashoud_Anobetah]

just noticed the " In case of fire" sign! haha love it.. keep up the great videos tim!. i did my flush recently same way you did in this video.. I did 100% coolant as my runner is exposed to -45Deg C weather. starts like a charm and no freezup.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

My girlfriend bought me that sign. I like it too. Damn Dude, you must get some major shrinkage at -45 degrees. I think I'll take my sunny California weather over that, I reckon. Where do you live?

[@Ashoud_Anobetah]

Fort McMurray, it gets cold on some winter days. your videos help me keep my maintenance cost low and truck reliable!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

In the Great White North in Alberta. Hey, say hi to Terrance and Phillip for me. We're glad you're making good use of our videos. It makes us happy to hear we're helping people save money and rely less on shops to do work for them.

[@wrongfullyaccused7139]

Why are the constant tension clamps better than the screw type? Thank you for another excellent video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Constant tension clamps allow for changes in the hoses as they age. The rubber compresses and shrinks a bit over time and the constant tension clamp will still keep a tight connection on the hose. With a screw down clamp, you'd have to give the clamp a couple turns to make up for the aging hose. That's the difference. You're very welcome.

[@wrongfullyaccused7139]

@@TimmyTheToolman ;Excellent explanation. Makes sense. Thank you

[@kaveituavao2748]

Thanks for the video timmy I have a question, evertime I flush the radiator its only 6 liters I got out I do have a rear heater is that mean I still have 3lts inside the system or something is wrong

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, that means you still have around 3 liters left inside. You could open the block drain on the passenger side of the block and that will drain out a decent amount more. You'll never get all of it out, because some will be in the heater core and heater hoses.

[@kaveituavao2748]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks mate 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@kaveituavao2748 You're welcome!

[@heftyjo2893]

Fun fact about distilled water is that it's corrosive because of it's high reactivity. You'll never see a metal pipe that runs pure distilled water through it because it will eventually just eat straight through the pipe. It absorbs phenols from plastics, nickel from stainless steel, and aluminum. And it'll absorb carbon dioxide from the air to create carbonic acid which further makes it acidic. Semiconductor manufacturers use DI water in chip manufacturing but they use specially treated and coated pipes all routed through open pipe spaces so they can be routinely inspected. In other words, don't leave straight distilled water in your engine. But it does make a good flush, as you can see in the video, it's binding to all the nasty bits clinging to the inner surfaces of the cooling system and pulling it out of the engine. Once you mix the DI water with the coolant, the coolant stabilizes the mixture, making it inert.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hmm, sounds like you're saying not to use distilled water for the engine cooling system. That's a first. Where do ou buy deionized water?

[@heftyjo2893]

@@TimmyTheToolman Nah, it's fine. Read my last line again. Once you mix the DI water with the coolant it stabilizes. The coolant probably is chalk full of buffers, chelators and PH balancers. You can get deionized water at like a Whole Foods or someplace similar. But Deionized water is even more reactive then run of the mill distilled water. I guess my whole point was its fine to use straight distilled to flush, just don't leave it in there and run it like that for extended periods.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@heftyjo2893 Well, you said DI which I took for deionized water. Deionized water is different than distilled water. Anyway, it doesn't matter.

[@andrewb2326]

Hey Timmy, thanks for another great video. I experienced the broken radiator cap thing, so decided to replace the coolant after fishing the spring and plastic stub out of the top tank. All went well and it was easy to follow the process you guys showed. Marvellous.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear Andrew. We are stoked this video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@jasonfallon4014]

Thank you Timmy, I will follow your advice. One last point please. Should I drain the engine block before the radiator, or will that introduce problematic air into the system ? I know it’s extra cost, but would it be a good idea to flush the old coolant using a 50:50 mixture of red and distilled water instead of flushing with only pure distilled water. If a 50:50 is used to do the flush, then you know that after a few flushes the coolant will be close to 50:50. Also, unsure if distilled water in contact with metals at high temperature can cause corrosion, but if a 50:50 is used to do the flush then we know corrosion inhibitors help to prevent corrosion during the flush procedure. Excellent work and thank you for sharing, I am about to follow your efforts my self with supervision. My coolant is crystal clear, thank god !

[@melvinlara-falcone2362]

Awesome vid I am a certified mechanic runs in the family I did not know that turning the knob just too hot will help circulate the coolant thank you very much for that tip keep those vids coming stay safe God bless you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I thought the fan had to be on but you only have to turn the het control to hot for the coolant to flow through the heater lines and heater core.

[@bahhaziz]

When you empty the radiator some of the coolant stays in the system. So when you add distilled water it mixes with the remaining of coolant. You run the engine then empty the radiator and what's left in the system isn't distilled water 100% because it's already mixed with what was left from the coolant in the system after in first place

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, we agree with you. But, after several rounds of adding distilled water, that leftover coolant in the system gets more and more diluted to where it's mostly distilled water.

[@G35Jeesh]

@@TimmyTheToolman how do you get the rest of the distilled water out trapped in the system when adding the new coolant ? Sorry if it’s a stupid question

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@G35Jeesh You don't get it out. Watch the whole video and you'll understand the process.

[@grandnotjadyn]

great video! I am more confident on flushing my own car. You did a really good job and explained how and why. but when you start this whole process of draining, are the radiator cap and overflow cap on or off? may sound like a dumb question to most but I don't work on cars. thanks for the video, im preparing to start mine early tomorrow.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Take the radiator cap off because it acts like a vent to expedite the draining of the radiator. You can leave the reservoir cap on or off. It doesn't matter. Good luck with the flush.

[@sejinoh1970]

What would happen if you left the drain plug open while engine running and kept replenishing distilled water from the top? Wouldn't that flush out existing coolant from the engine block completely and little bit quicker? Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That might work because the drain doesn't move much volume quickly. Give it a try.

[@zacinnc78]

@@TimmyTheToolman there are videos of people using the garden hose that way and just keeping a steady stream of water flowing,then i suppose you could do a flush with distilled to flush out the waterhose water lol thenfill with toyota

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@zacinnc78 Yep, that's what we did in the 80's when I worked at a Chevron Gas Station. But, we didn't use distilled water. We used tap water to fill them up.

[@seandavis2520]

Very very good and thorough video... Its also nice to see that you responded to every question!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Sean. We're glad you like the video. You're also one of the few people who've noticed we do try to respond to everyone. We try to answer each question to the best of our ability and we try to acknowledge everyone's comment to let them know we took the time to read it. Happy Wrenching Sean.

[@idlingmike2]

Great videos! Friendly criticism, consider pulling the thermostat if you have to do a flush. You won't have to bring it up to temperature.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good point. Since the thermostat isn't hard to pull out on a 3rd Gen 4runner, that would have saved some time. For some vehicles though, the thermostat might be a pain in the butt to pull out. But, it would have been beneficial in the video to suggest pulling the thermostat if it's quick and easy to get to. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@justinblaha5105]

@@TimmyTheToolman does pulling the thermostat make it a straight shot to just flush the system at a lower temp?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@justinblaha5105 Yes, you can absolutely do that.

[@austinfarley4971]

I wish I had you as my mechanic for my ‘03 Taco. This is super knowledgeable

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Austin, thanks for the nice compliment. You can do all the things I can do with the right tools, some patience and a willingness to learn. There's really nothing special about my mechanical ability. I've just learned a fair amount of stuff over the years and I do lots of research before attempting a job. Many of the videos you've watched are me doing the repair, maintenance or modification for the first time in my life. If I can do it, you can do it.

[@Salve_Regina8]

@@TimmyTheToolman yup I've done a vast majority of my maintenance off of your videos. Thanks alot.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Salve_Regina8 You're welcome Rafael. Happy Wrenching Brother!

[@Munkeez]

Great vid. I'm a total beginner so the detail is very helpful!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Andrew Stevens Thanks Andrew. Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. Welcome to the wonderful world of Auto Mechanics! Happy Wrenching!

[@valjean2036]

@@TimmyTheToolman i bought a toyota tc with 75000 miles. It had GM orange coolant. I have 120 thousand now. Im learning to DIY. I bought the redpink asian peak for toyota. My maintance book says to add coolant. Can i add without flushing? Or can i drain rad fluid and cont to add the new coolant ?

[@valjean2036]

@@TimmyTheToolman i think the car dealership put the GM coolant in when i bought it at the 75 000 miles

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@valjean2036 I wouldn't mix those coolants. I would flush it and renew the system with the Toyota coolant.

[@valjean2036]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! Will do

[@toonmag50]

Very comprehensive video. In the UK motor factors seem only to sell deionised water and not distilled water,even though I ordered distilled. I didn't realise that the water was not distilled until I had used it. In addition, as I'm a DIY driveway monkey I couldn't get the constant pressure clamp back on ,and I used a jubilee clip (worm drive thing ) that my old nextdoor neighbour ex mechanic confirmed that such clamps are not fit for automotive work. I now have the seed of doubt about the deionised water and the jubilee clip. Any comments?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I didn't know how deionized water compares to distilled water so I looked it up. It seems the deionized process also removes most of the minerals out of the water which is what you want so I'm guessing it's fine to use in coolant. I'm surprised you can't find it in the UK. Almost every grocery store in the the US sells distilled water. Have you tried to find it for sale in the grocery stores? After some further research, deionized water is what some coolant manufacturers suggest using to make the mix. I now remember Toyota recommends using deionized with their Red concentrate to make the coolant mix. But, I have no clue where to find deionized water. What I do know is most people choose to use distilled water because it's readily available and lacks the minerals that tap water has that will corrode your cooling system. So, long story short, the deionized water you used is fine. Screw down clamps do work. What makes a constant tension clamp superior is it's ability to keep the connection tight over time. The rubber either shrinks or loses elasticity over time and the connection can become a little loose with the screw down clamp. The constant tension clamp can self-adjust to the changing hose while the screw down clamp will need to be tightened. With all that said, I think you're fine leaving the screw down clamp in place. Maybe just swap it out the next time you're due for a flush.

[@toonmag50]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for giving me a very full reply, even on a Sunday and putting my mind at rest . Little whispers can grow in the mind and I've been getting quite preoccupied with delusions of a self created breakdown. With the deionised water, I actually ordered distilled water so it's peculiar. I'll investigate supermarkets for the next coolant change. Thanks again and subscribed.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@toonmag50 You're very welcome. We're here to help.

[@jasonfallon4014]

love you brother, its time consuming so i guess most garages dont bother, they just drain and fill the radiator with new coolant. Which is the better coolant for my toyota corolla d4d 2.0 litre, 131k mile s and 2004 model. Iam in the UK. Much appreciated, especially the non splash funnel idea.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jason, thanks for the love. If you can the Toyota Red coolant concentrate, that's what I would suggest. I'm pretty sure that's what your vehicle takes. You can confirm this by calling your local Toyota dealer and asking the parts dept. You just have to mix the concentrate with distilled water to make your 50/50 mix.

[@wes11bravo]

I'm still trying to figure out why everyone says to use distilled water during the flush process. If you're just getting rid of all that before you add your new coolant, what difference does it make if you use tap water or lake water or rain water? You're not *keeping* that mineral filled water in the system, correct? That water is just there to hold all the crap that gets flushed from the block/heater core/radiator then it's disposed of. So what's the difference?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The difference is you're not going to get all the tap water or lake water, as you said, out of the engine. I suggest you use distilled water only for the flush process. It's not worth the risk of keeping contaminants in your cooling system to save a few buck on gallon jugs of distilled water.

[@jj2956]

Hey Timmy I just completed coolant flush as per your video...your videos are sweet and easy to follow much appreciated...one thing I noticed is that black/grey particles would bubble up into the lisle spill free funnel as the distilled water flowed into the radiator...I would wipe out the funnel with a paper towel each time I ran 2 gallons of distilled water through and it would smear like ash onto the paper towel...I also noticed some of the particles in the reservoir which I rinsed out with some distilled water...hopefully this is nothing to be concerned about...any thoughts or experience as to what the particles might be from? I had a shop do a coolant flush when I purchased the vehicle at 181,000 miles and I did the flush myself today at 239,000 miles...I used Prestone which is what the shop must have used as well because of color...when I drained the coolant it came out the swamp green color, but I didn’t notice any of the particles as the coolant drained out as it would only bubble up into funnel. Overall everything went great!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Joshua, Great to hear you have found our videos helpful. The reason why your coolant looked swamp green is you basically went twice the recommended interval for a coolant renewal. There are now different coolants that supposedly last longer, but in the past, the suggested interval for a coolant renewal was every 30k miles. You pretty much renewed it after 60k. I think that black gunk you're seeing is sludge/sediment that formed in the cooling system from not keeping the coolant in better shape. From here on out, just drain and refill your radiator every 30k and your coolant should stay in really good shape. You could also convert to Toyota coolant which is what I will end up doing with my 2000 4runner. When I purchased it, the cooling system had Prestone Green and I have just kept it that way for the last 6 years and 70k miles. But, I now have a 98 4runner that has the Toyota Red. To simplify things, I'm going to flush the cooling system on my 2000 when I'm next due for an renewal and run Toyota Red in both. There's big debates on the right coolant to run in our 3rd Gen 4runners and people swear that the only coolant to run is Toyota coolant. I don't necessarily buy into this but we obviously can't go wrong with using a coolant from the manufacturer of our rigs.

[@Letsplayminecraft1]

Really good video this mate. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@wellnesspathforme6236]

1. Do you turn the heater on in order to allow otherwise stagnant coolant to flow? 2. Why is the hose clip so much better than the hose screw down?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You open the heater control valve so air bubbles can work their way out from the heater core and heater core hoses. Constant tension clamps can adjust for hose aging and shrinking limiting the chance for a coolant leak at the connection. Screw-down clamps can't do that without manual intervention.

[@LoveGrowsAdam]

Idiocracy reference was great! I'm just going to use toilet water to flush mine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Nah, I think you should flush it with Brawndo. It's got what cooling systems need.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Hey Timmy,,,I'm back for more...do u recommend to drain coolant from the engine block as well, u knw thr by the wheel well??? or just the radiator?!!! Nice seeing u again, man!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There was guy on toyota-4runner.org that showed how much coolant he got out of the engine block and it wasn't much, maybe a pint. I've never bothered with draining the engine block on any vehicle I've owned. Some guys like to go the extra mile by doing it and maybe I would too if I had a vehicle with really bad looking coolant. If your coolant is in good shape and you do a drain and refill of the radiator at regular intervals (every 30,000 miles), I don't think the block draining is necessary because you're renewing the bulk of the system capacity by draining and refilling the radiator.

[@mikeandrews5787]

Hey Timmy. Thanks for the great video. I read your description about recommendations for which coolant to use. So how would you recommend going about doing the flush using only pink 50/50 OEM mix? Since after the flush with distilled water there will still be a quart or two remaining water and when you add in the pink coolant the ratio won’t truly be 50/50. I’ve seen one other mechanic girl on KZbin named Faye who finishes at the end by doing a flush of only pink 50/50 after a distilled water flush. Then she drains it and pours in pink fluid again. Thoughts? This way just seems so much more expensive

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mike, just top off the system with 50/50 when you're done and it will be fine. You will have a slightly less than 50/50 mix but that's OK. Most of the system capacity is held in the radiator. Doing a final flush with actual 50/50 antifreeze to water mix like Faye did is a waste. If you lived in sub-freezing temps for long periods of the year, you might want to run an even heavier ratio of antifreeze to water for the added freeze protection. Water has better cooling properties than antifreeze so your engine will actually run a little cooler with less antifreeze and more water.

[@JJK-le2yj]

As a 2015 F150 owner (5.0) I found your video to be one of the most detailed ones I've watched and dosent use tap water. Would you change the radiator hoses during coolant replacement? I'm going on 6 years with 60,000 mi Thank you for the video, great job!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome. Hoses can last quite a long time and it's debatable whether they really need to be changed because I've seen heater hoses last for hundreds of thousands of miles with no leaks. If the hoses still look good visibly and are still soft and compliant, they're probably ok at the mileage you're at. When you get over 100k miles, I'd maybe start thinking about it and time the hose replacements with another coolant flush or other big job like a timing belt because you usually remove the radiator out of your way when you're gaining access to the timing belt. Or, if you had the unfortunate situation of springing a leak in your radiator, replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses along with the radiator and radiator cap would be the smart preventative maintenance way to go. Happy Wrenching!

[@JJK-le2yj]

Sounds good to me and thank you for the quick reply! I just subscribed. They look good, so I will plan on replacement during the next coolant change unless, like you said, something breaks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@JJK-le2yj You're welcome and thanks for subscribing.

[@JJK-le2yj]

😃👍

[@richardstone5241]

What are your thoughts on silicone hoses?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They are fine, longer lasting than typical rubber hose, however if you’re in Cali, you might not pass smog inspection. - Sean

[@jeffguia7371]

Timmy question about radiator what do you think about aluminum radiator will that help drop the temperature? And will that last longer versus oem? Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jeff, I know nothing about aluminum radiators for our 3rd Gen 4runners so I couldn't give you any advice. I put an OEM radiator in my rig. I think most chose a Denso or Koyo replacement because they're more affordable. The OEM I bought was around $200 and Denso and Koyo sell for around $100 online. I had read the OEM was superior to the Denso and Koyo so that's why I went with OEM.

[@john_duncan]

I thought there was a drain on the block also, my T100 is old and I'm trying to find the location of it in a video before I do it, I see it in the book but it is one of those thing I'll prolly mess up if I haven't seen it before.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You'll find it on the passenger side of the block. It's easy to identify because it's a 14mm bolt head and it's not holding anything to the block. It's easiest to get to via the passenger side wheel well. Get the plastic and rubber splash guards out of the way and you might even want to remove the passenger tire to give you more room to work and see in there.

[@john_duncan]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks a bunch.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@john_duncan You're welcome.

[@Qmedjoe]

Thanks Timmy! I just found that Champion radiators just started making all aluminum radiators for the 5vzfe engine so I had to pick one up for my rig! Liked and subscribed.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Qmed Joe You're welcome. Thanks for sharing this all aluminum radiator option and thanks for subscribing.

[@Qmedjoe]

Timmy The Toolman sure thing! Here’s the link. This is for a Tacoma but they make them for third gen 4Runners also. www.championradiators.com/Toyota-Tacoma-Radiator-1995-2004

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the link. The aluminum radiator looks nice. I wonder if there would be less of a chance of a transmission cooler failure with one of these radiators. Do you think the trans cooler is somehow superior to one that would come in a Denso radiator?

[@blusymmonds630]

Thanks for the video, what do you think about the radiator flush products do you think they are good to use

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've never used them. I guess if the coolant was really nasty looking, I might consider it.

[@gusthern1]

Hi Timmy, thank you very much for all your effort, sharing your knowledge. About this video, can I use prestone 50/50 refrigerant? my engine is 5VZ. thanks for your answer.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, you can run Prestone 50/50. I've been running it in my 2000 4runner for the last 7 years and 85,000 miles. But, I think the Toyota Red might be the better way to go since it was made for Toyota engines. I now have a 1998 running Toyota Red and my 2000 running Prestone Green. I plan on switching my 2000 over to Toyota Red the next time I due for a renewal to simplify things and only have to buy one type of coolant for my rigs.

[@madhawavishwajith1506]

Hi Timmy, great video and explained everything perfectly. One more thing, do we need to recycle every flush or recycling first two flushes enough?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The first two flushes would probably be enough. After that there's only traces of coolant in the distilled water. I wouldn't pour it down the storm drain though because that would lead to a clean body of water. Maybe flush it down the toilet because that goes to a water treatment facility. All kinds of chemicals go down the sewer system to a water treatment plant so some water with traces of coolant in it doesn't seem bad to me.

[@madhawavishwajith1506]

Timmy The Toolman thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@madhawavishwajith1506 You're welcome.

[@louieibalio7284]

Tim, called Toyota and they said we should not be mixing the LLC (concentrate) with the SLLC (pre-mixed) because the LLC is for older engines (pre-2004) while the SLLC is for newer engines with aluminum. So if we don't then how do we fix the 1.5 qt of distilled water remaining in the system?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you figured out based off the cooling system capacity of your rig that you have 1.5 quarts of distilled water left in the system, you'd first add 1.5 quarts of pure concentrate if you have an older model and then finish by topping it off with a 50/50 mix. If you have a newer vehicle and all you have at your disposal is a 50/50 concentrate, you're just not going to have a perfect 50/50 mix when you're all done and that's perfectly fine.

[@dbldukes3930]

I was thinking about driving around the block in between flushes to expedite the process instead of just idling in place. Fill with water, close system, drive for 5 mins, flush, fill and repeat.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That would work. Another technique people use is to remove the thermostat. Then, they don't have to wait until the thermostat opens for the coolant to flow completely through the cooling system.

[@DSJVNdsjnvf4356]

Dude this looks like so much work. Don’t get me wrong, engine maintenance is very important but hoesntly there’s gotta be a faster way. Great video tho, it was very informative. Alright I’ll be waiting for a hater to show up.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It is a laborious process, but the way we do it is the safest bet. Back in the day when I worked at a Chevron gas station, we would cut into one of the heater hoses and install a plastic T that we could hook a garden hose up to. We'd put a directional spout into the radiator to direct the flow away from the engine and turn on the hose. We'd let the coolant/water rain down onto the shop floor and down the sewer drain. When the water looked clean, we'd turn off the hose, drain the radiator and then add a 50/50 mix of tap water and coolant. Knowing what I know now, that method isn't great for the cooling system. Tap water has minerals in it that can corrode the cooling system components. Some people take out the thermostat to expedite the process we do so you don't have to get the engine up to operating temp each flush cycle to get the thermostat to open. If you take out the thermostat, make sure you put it back in with the jiggle valve pointing downward at the 6 o'clock position. Also take a good look at the water neck and water pump housing for a build-up of corrosion where the thermostat seal contacts. You might have to clean it up with some emery cloth or whatever you have, so you don't end up with a leak at the water neck after you're done with the flush procedure.

[@DSJVNdsjnvf4356]

@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I hate when ppl use tap water and say it’s safe. I totally disagree just by common sense lol. Honestly, now that you mentioned it, I might try to take the thermostat off to help speed up the process. Thanks for the information. ✊

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@DSJVNdsjnvf4356 You're welcome. Good luck with the flush.

[@condor5635]

Great video Timmy. Interesting about the heater core valve you mention because on Suburbans for instance coolant flows to the core all the times - at least that's what I believe. There is no valve - for the heater control just modulates the blend door so when you have the control on cold all heater core heat vents to the outside but the coolant flows to it all the time. For my Highlander's I don't know of any valve(s) that are inline to the core and cut off flow. Has anyone validated presence of valves cutting off flow or does the blend door work like described above and coolant flows all the time. Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You bring up an interesting point. The method we share in this video is something we borrowed. Take a look at the center of the firewall in your engine compartment near the top. You will see a cable actuated valve that the heater core lines connect to. The way I understood it, the temperature control knob turns this valve adjusting how much of the coolant flows through the valve from the engine to the heater core. So, if your theory is correct, where exactly is the vent that allows the constant stream of hot air to escape outside?

[@byronmoore8448]

I'm at my wits end😢 I have an 89 4runner 3400. I replaced valve cover gaskets and all plenum gaskets. I cleaned throttle body and idle air valve and gasket. Prior to this work Vehicle was idling high 1100 to 1400 rpm. After this work all is great except still idling high. I've looked for air leaks around all intake hoses by spraying water. I have not heard one change in engine rpm while spraying. Intake hose from TB to air cleaner looks old but squeezing and spraying made no difference. Can't afford to buy an air idle valve if I'm not sure it's bad. Would you please suggest what way I should go from here. I hope you know that your videos are second to none. Tps bad if it runs great other than high idling? Throttle cables are adjusted correctly. TB butterfly is always just shy of being fully closed even with all cables disconnected.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It could be an issue with either the IAC or TPS. Have you actually tested the IAC for proper function like I show in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5isg4GEdpJpmdUsi=HrMxZZl8nny_X-tU

[@simri7474]

Everything I know, I learned from Timmy!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Really? Oh yeah, I do remember teaching you to look both ways before crossing the street and to not talk to strangers.

[@JorgeOllerRosario]

Hi Timmy! I’ve been trying to get my temps down by any mean and it’s not working out for me :( here a bit of back story: I bought my 4Runner about 2 months ago with 145,000 miles and decided to do some preventive maintenance since I found this channel. I did the following: Timing belt, bearings and tensioner Water pump Thermostat 180• with jiggle valve on the 6:00 position Radiator Radiator hoses Radiator cap Burped the system for about 30 mins on an incline Refill transmission fluid to the full mark My current problems is that my coolant temperatures are still creeping over 200 degrees and a lot of times my transmission temperature goes up as well. honestly i don't know what to do next and i have search throughout the forums and haven't been able to find something in regards to my issue. Thanks in advance Timmy!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jorge, what's the outside temps you've been driving in? If you're driving in really hot weather, like above 100 degrees, 200 could be about normal. I was in Los Angeles recently driving in 100+ degree weather and climbing some steep grades and my coolant temp got as hot as 212. But, my rig is much heavier than stock right now and I was also carrying a lot of extra weight in the back. When driving mellow and not ascending hills, my rig runs in the 188-194 range. What trans temps have you been seeing? Have you tested your fan clutch? A worn out fan clutch could cause you to run higher than normal. Check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/javLnXR5rdaYp7M

[@JorgeOllerRosario]

Im in the rust belt (in VA) and temps today were 82 H and 65 L . I did watched that video and tested it while i was doing the timing belt (literally yesterday) and it tested good. I thought maybe the water pump was going to change something but everything stayed the same at the end and my temperatures are still rising. I do have an external trans cooler that i might install in the upcoming days but it seems a bit odd that without anything in the truck i reach temps of 220 on the trans as well as on my coolant

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I have to say this is pretty weird. You shouldn't be running that hot. Did you have your heater controls, both front and rear (if you have a rear heater) on hot to get air out of the heater core and lines? I only hit 220 on my trans when I'm climbing sustained grades. Are you saying you're hitting 220 with just regular driving? By the way, what tool are you using to monitor your coolant and trans temps?

[@JorgeOllerRosario]

Yeap! that's exactly what im saying. Just regular stop and go traffic and i can see those temperatures. Im using the Torque app like you suggested... I've pretty much exhausted all of your video suggestions so far and im still at those temperatures i do have a small leak on the transfer case but im not sure if it could have anything to do with that since im not running the 4x4 on my daily commute. I have a second car.... do you think i should start using it more often if im seeing these temps?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You know, since you've gone this far, maybe just replace the fan clutch. It's the only thing left you haven't tried. You should not be running that high. At most, you should be in the low 190's, 190-194. You've renewed everything else regarding the cooling system. Are you losing any coolant? Just wondering if a blown head gasket could be letting exhaust gases into the coolant. You might want to perform a compression test. It might not be a bad idea to drive the other vehicle until you get it figured out.

[@drive8892]

Damn sir your video here is the best best best………. Of how to drain and refill coolant 1000% completely! Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment, and you're very welcome.

[@johnmal801]

Can this process be done properly without the funnel?? Good video...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it can. The lisle spill free funnel just makes it easier for the burping process of getting all the air out the system without having to keep adding coolant to the radiator as air works it's way out of the cooling system.

[@8953147]

Enjoyed your video Tim, especially the distilled water !! I use Toyota red too in my 2000 4Runner. Never had any problems with my coolant system.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I actually use Prestone Green in my rig and I don't really think the brand of coolant matters as much as how often you renew it. I renew my coolant every 30,000 miles and that seems to keep it in good shape. The only issue I've ever had with a cooling system is having a radiator hose burst. Other than that, I've been trouble free.

[@mendoblendo321]

You still have your 2004 4runner?

[@mendoblendo321]

You still have your 2004 4runner?

[@mendoblendo321]

You still have your 2004 4runner?

[@8953147]

@mendoblendo321 Unfortunately no, downsized to a small Honda Fit. But I loved my 4Runner she never gave me any "fits".

[@sambo314]

I ised a green coolant type recently to top off my coolant but after some research, ive found that most people say its not good to mix red & green coolant It was a Prestone Antifreeze concentrate and said it was safe to mix with any other coolant but i dont wanna risk it I was planning on doing a complete coolant flush of ALL the coolant in my system (radiator, engine block, heater core, water pump, Idk if im missing anthing) Im new to working on cars & wanted some advice on what i need to do to get all the old coolant out of my car & replaced with the new 50/50 red Also, how do i know if i have a REAR HEATER or not. My owners manyal didnt say if i did or not Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you watch the video, you'll know how to do a complete flush of your cooling system.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Hey Timmy,,,is there a benefit/advantage in using Toyota pink/red as opposed to prestone green...if so wht is it...about to do this myself and would like ur input plz, Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Supposedly the Toyota pink or red has a different chemical make-up than Prestone green and is better for the cooling system for the Toyota vehicles. However, the early year 3rd Gens supposedly came with a Prestone green and then Toyota came out with their proprietary coolant. If Prestone was good back then, why wouldn't it be ok now? My truck came with Prestone green and I just stuck with it. If it had the Toyota red or pink, I probably would have stuck with that. I personally don't think you need to go with the Toyota coolant. My recommendation would be to stick with whatever coolant you currently have. If your coolant isn't looking really bad, just do a drain and refill of the radiator. If your coolant does look really bad, then you probably should do a flush and you can decide at that point which coolant you want to go with. The benefit I see with Prestone green is it's available everywhere. If I have a hose break in the middle of nowhere and I get towed to the nearest small town that has an automotive store, I doubt that small town store is going to carry Toyota red or pink coolant but they most certainly with have Prestone green. So, you'd be forced to just fill it with straight distilled water until you can find a dealership or store that carries it.

[@ratspam7655]

Any thorough flush with distilled water followed by refill with 50/50 mix will result in a 40/60 mix due to the water you cannot easily removed from the block. A better approach is to fill will 60\40 mix and you’ll end up close to 50/50.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You obviously didn't watch the entire video. @17:56, I begin talking about how much distilled water is left in the system based on how much we drained out on the final flush and how much the cooling system holds by looking it up in the owner's manual. Once we figured out how much distilled water was left in the system, we added an equal amount of concentrate to make the balance left a 50/50 mix. Then we finished by topping off the system with a 50/50 mix and burped the system of air. One of the 1st rules of commenting on somebody's work is to actually knowing that person's work. So Dude, you sort of failed in that regard. Please actually watch our videos in their entirety before making future comments.

[@ratspam7655]

@@TimmyTheToolman 1.5L H2O left trapped in the engine + 8L of 60/40 mix is what final mixture? 4.8L coolant (60%) + 3.2L H2O (40%)+ 1.5L trapped H20 ~= 50/50. So you see, you get the same result as your method of adding the concentrate first.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ratspam7655 What if what's left in the system is more than 15.7% of the system? Is your 60/40 solution still going to work out? We figured out there was 1.5 quarts left of a 9.5 quart system, so there was 15.7% remaining. What if someone finishes their final flush and determines there's more like 25-30% left in the system? Is your 60/40 solution now going to work out? No, it's not. So, in our example doing the flush on a 3rd Generation 4runner, your math works out. On another vehicle, or just another 4runner, it might not. I've seen varying amounts drain out of the cooling system of a 3.4L engine. Sometimes we get 8 quarts, sometimes it's more like 4-6 quarts. An across the board 60/40 solution for all vehicles is not going to generate an accurate 50/50 mix.

[@jacobliddiard158]

By any change would it be possible that it is not necessary to wait for the bubbles go out with that type of funnels, because it has the reservoir tank, where the bubbles con go? I mean, what if we drain the radiator, re-fill it up, with the reservoir tank included, and then start the engine, and use the reservoir tank as an alternative of the anti-spills funnel, and then at some point when the operative temperature is reached, and thermostat opens and start the flow, the bubbles trapped inside will travel at some point to the reservoir tank and get integrated with the rest of the air in the reservoir tank. If not, what if we leave the reservoir tank opened until that happens?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good question but I don't have a definitive answer for you. I use to do it the old way with a standard radiator funnel. Pour some coolant into the radiator, wait till it drops, pour more in, wait, etc. Do you absolutely need a spill free funnel? No, I don't think so. Do they make topping off a cooling system easier and possibly help with the burping of air out of the system? Yeah, I think it does. What I have noticed is the coolant level will drop a bit after a cooling system renewal. What that tells me is more air worked it's way out supporting your belief the air will eventually find it's way out.

[@RotoRCol]

Timmy always love your videos you explain so well, thank you and keep going with the toyotatime channel

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! Glad you're liking what we're doing. We've got more coming. Sean just needs to find time to edit them. 2 Rear Axle Seal Videos, 3rd Member Swap and we swapped the Auto Trans in Sean's rig.

[@Mark-um3hm]

My car only has 39,000 on it, but I bought it used, so I just drained it, to be sure, I have the proper coolant in it?

[@curtisf1276]

Thank you for this video. I know its not good to run the engine with no liquid in the system, but if you ran it for say 30 seconds on the final drain would that get the extra quart of distilled water out that is left in the system?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Curtis, I don't think so. The water pump's ability to move coolant through the system is dependent on it receiving water so it can create the pressure necessary to move the coolant throughout the system. If the water pump is sitting there dry, it's not going to be able to "suck" the leftover coolant that's remaining in the engine block, heater core, heater core lines and rear heater lines (if you have a rear heater).

[@jimdavidson5208]

About the newer pink and older red coolants. Toyota may say the pink is fine BUT, why not use what came in it from the factory? The red is great coolant guys. Walmart sells the Zerex Asian in red for cheap.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, because with the Pink, it's a ready to go 50/50 mix. It's basically convenience you're buying.

[@FirstLightAdv]

Great video I'm about to do mine. Is it ok to mix Toyota Long Life (red) and pink Super Long Life like that? Cheers.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that said it was ok to mix these coolants but then the TSB disappeared. I'd just use whatever coolant is recommended for your rig and not mix to play it safe. However, Sean mixed in this video and drove his rig for thousands and thousands of miles without issue.

[@mountainbiker4450]

Do you know in general if Toyotas have a bleeder valve that also must be opened up during the air burping process? I have a 2005 Highlander I just bought that I want to do a coolant change and can’t find anything about that. Also, one comment is that you say to have the heater temperature to high which is good, but also the fan on high as well. I find that if you turn the fan, just to low speed the thermostats going to open a lot faster and you complete the whole process a lot sooner. Finally any thoughts on raising the front end a little bit during the burping process?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know of a bleeder valve on any Toyota vehicle. You are right that you don't need the fan on. You just want the heater control valve opened so the coolant can run through the heater core and heater hoses. You do want the front higher than the rear. You can do this by parking on a slant like we did in my driveway, or you could jack up the front end like you mentioned.

[@asherhumphreys5110]

Do you recommend flushing the heater core with a garden hose by taking the outlet and inlet hose off? And THEN doing this entire process? Or does your process eliminate the need for flushing the core I ask this because I have the wrong color coolant (yellow) in my 01 4runner so I need to flush the entire system.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, I would not suggest using a garden hose. You don't want tap water in your cooling system because the minerals in the water could cause corrosion. Just follow what we show in the video and use several rounds of distilled water. If you turn the heater controls to full hot, that will allow the distilled water to flow through the heater core and heater core hoses.

[@haksieng]

The reason why it is taking the engine so long to heat up is due to the fact that plain water is much better at cooling the engine than coolant.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This is very true.

[@johncalhoun637]

If you cover the radiator with cardboard it will heat up faster. Obviously remove the cardboard when your done.

[@njsongwriter]

@@johncalhoun637 A pressurized system will also heat up faster.

[@han2han718]

Timmy, I have a 1997 4runner with the 3.4 L V-6. It has approximately 211,000 miles. I bought this vehicle a few months past. The heater wasn't blowing hot air, so I: 1) Flushed the antifreeze, 2) replaced the thermostat. The heat situation did not improve so I 3) replaced the heater core (removing the dash etc). When I removed the heater core I checked the heater water control valve. Looked Ok, opened and closed, no leaks. The heat has improved a bit but not by much. The vehicle will eventually heat-up after its been driven for a while. Could you give me some ideas as to how to improve my heating situation and what may be causing the heater to not work at optimal? The vehicle does not overheat and I don't see and scaling in the radiator, so I'm thinking the radiator is ok. I was thinking maybe there is a flap that isn't opening on the heater box???

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know what you would do next. My first thing would suspect a problem with the heater control valve but you said you checked it and it seems like it's operating correctly. When your rig is at operating temp and you have the heat on full blast, is the air coming out of the vents with decent force? Just wondering if it's a blower problem. Does you AC work fine? If the blower is pushing air fine, I'm wondering if there's some type of constriction in the piping that's not allowing a good flow of coolant to the heater core. When we did a recent engine swap, there's a coolant bypass pipe that travels under the intake manifold that the heater hoses attach to on the back of the motor. If there's a blockage in that pipe due to corrosion, I could see how that would cause your situation because not enough coolant is able to flow through the piping to reach your heater core. Check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6erp55vg5KbiqM and start watching at play time 26 minutes, 16 seconds. You'll see how the heater hoses attach to the piping I mentioned. If you watch further in the video, you see us lift off the intake manifold and remove the coolant bypass pipe.

[@jimmydickson8854]

Thanks for the tutorial mate very help full

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Jimmy. Glad you found our video helpful.

[@jinheu5119]

I have a GX 460 Lexus 2019 I’m at 60,000 miles right now. Do you think I should change out my coolant right now or wait until 100,000 also should I do a drain and fill or should I do coolant flush

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I wouldn't wait until 100k miles. I'd do it now. You don't need to do a flush. Just do a drain and refill of the radiator and fill with the correct coolant.

[@jinheu5119]

Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@jinheu5119 You're welcome.

[@jberrocalucf]

Ha be to do this this weekend. My coolant capacity is 16 quarts gonna take a while lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Figure out where your block drain is to expedite the process. You can also remove the thermostat so you don't have to wait for engine to warm up for every flush cycle.

[@williamrichey3660]

Thanks for the video. Finally found the right one that is for Toyota. New subscriber!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Welcome to the club William.

[@williamrichey3660]

Timmy The Toolman your welcome I have a 2014 Toyota Tacoma 2wd V6.

[@stevenbauer7744]

I have a 210K miles '02 w/o the rear heater and I'm doing this process as the tail end of replacing the radiator. The system was never flushed, although fresh coolant was added at 125K when the timing belt was replaced in 2011. About 2 gallons of distilled water was used to get the car home after the radiator sprang a leak. The car is at a level attitude based on a torpedo level placed on the door sill. I'm only getting 3-4 quarts out each time I drain the system. I've gone about 7 cycles of fill w/distilled, run about 10-20 minutes, drain, and the coolant is still coming out pink. The upper tank of the radiator gets to no more than 165 degrees when I run the car, the bottom tank stays at 95 degrees, and the oil pan is at 179 degrees. I've gone as far as sticking a piece of cardboard between the condenser and the radiator to bring the temp up, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. For the last 2 or cycles, I put the cap back on and let the system build pressure. Am I missing something that the process is taking so many cycles? What can I do to make the process more efficient? BTW, I'm using one of the Lisle funnels, got it from Amazon for $20 total with prime next day delivery.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Steve, That's really weird you're only getting out 3-4 quarts out at a time. I've done drain and refills on 3 different rigs now and I've consistently gotten out 2 gallons. Maybe the thermostat isn't opening all the way. I've heard recently that you only need the temperature control turned to full hot but you don't need the fan blowing. The fan blowing is pulling heat from the engine and possibly causing the thermostat to not open fully. Having the thermostat fully open would allow the coolant to cycle more thoroughly but it still doesn't explain why you're only getting out 3-4 quarts every time. Weird. It sort of sounds like there's some type of blockage in the radiator and it's not filling up to it's full capacity. How old is the radiator?

[@stevenbauer7744]

The radiator is brand new as of yesterday. The old one sprung a leak last Sunday after 210K miles. I decided to go through the flush process since the some of the coolant was probably original from 2002, with the last fresh coolant added in 2011 when the timing belt and water pump was changed. New Toyota pre-mix coolant was added to replace what drained out. I turned the fan off after the first couple of rounds, since the fan doesn't affect the coolant flow through heater core. I've verified that the heater valve opens. The fact that I may not be filling it up all the way is an interesting idea. I've been using the same lisle funnel you demonstrate in the video, squeezing the top hose during the fill, and then running the engine until the water in the funnel is steaming and no more bubbles are rising. There is an inch or more of water still in the funnel above the neck that fits in the yellow tube. At that point, I plug the funnel, remove it and the adapter, then re-install the cap and run the car for another 10 minutes checking for pressure in the system by squeezing the top hose. The temp gauge never goes above 1/2 way, and the temps are as I mentioned in my original comment. I figure that the oil pan temp of 175-180 is most representative of the overall engine temp, which seems reasonable. I don't think I'm missing anything here. The one anomaly being that the pressure valve also broke off the radiator cap and more than likely fell into the top tank (actually the 2nd time it's happened). I would think flow of water would tend to keep the broken piece in the top tank and not allow it to move through the top hose into the engine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's good to know you don't need the fan on for proper flow through the heater core. What do you mean by "squeezing the top hose during the fill"? Are you squeezing it to remove the funnel without spilling coolant or are your squeezing it the whole time you're pouring coolant in? The only time I squeeze the upper radiator hose is at the very end when I want to push a little extra coolant into the funnel so when I put the funnel stopper in, coolant doesn't spill out of the top of the radiator. I've personally seen 3 bad OEM radiator caps. The plastic cap and spring end up in the top of the radiator. I agree due to the direction of flow, coolant coming into the top of the radiator from the engine would keep those loose parts in the radiator. I was wondering if they could cause a blockage somewhere in the radiator but I sort of doubt it. Something is definitely not adding up. You should be able to get consistently 2+ gallons out every time you drain your radiator.

[@stevenbauer7744]

I mean that as the fluid (pure water, coolant, or mix) is sitting in the funnel and air bubbles come up as the fluid is going into the radiator, I give the top hose a few squeezes to force air out of the funnel a bit faster. I usually squeeze the hose a few times until air bubbles stop when I squeeze the hose.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Gotcha. Have you thought about starting over and pulling the radiator to see if you can get those loose parts out from the radiator cap. When I saw this happen for the first time, I turned the radiator upside down was able to get the spring out but the other plastic cap stayed in the radiator probably wedged in someplace. I just don't understand how you can only be getting out half the capacity I'm use to seeing. I get a minimum of 2 gallons out every time I drain the radiator. Very weird.

[@speedracer782]

Hi Timmy. Great video. Thank you so much for doing it. Very detailed which I loved. A couple of questions please. I flushed the system a few times. The 3rd time after one gallon came out it seemed to drain very slow even with the cap off. I checked it in the morning, however, and two gallons was the total. Any ideas why? My last flush I drained it (while it was still hot) and by accident left the radiator cap on and it all flushed out nice and quick. After one gallon drained I removed the radiator cap and the rest still came out quick. Must all have something to do with pressure? Lastly, is the overflow bottle included in the total capacity of the system? Have not found that answer anywhere. At this point I have 4.75 quarts of pure red in the system (2002 4runner) so I wasn't sure if this means there was less water left in the system so I should add only distilled water in the overflow or if the bottle is counted separately and I should add 50/50 in the overflow? Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The reason why the coolant drained out slow is maybe there was an air bubble slowing the draining like it wasn't venting properly for the coolant to drain quickly. I would say you don't factor the reservoir capacity into the equation. Minus the amount you drain out of the radiator from the total system capacity and then add coolant concentrate equal to the amount of distilled water you have left in the engine. When you're all done burping the system and the engine is at operating temperature, top off the reservoir to the full mark with a 50/50 mix. Glad you like the video and you're very welcome.

[@speedracer782]

@@TimmyTheToolman your first flush showed 9 quarts. Does that mean there was only 0.5 quarts left in the engine? The last time you had 8 quarts. Why the difference? I kept getting 8 quarts when I drained but didn't burp each time so maybe I could have gotten more out of it if I I could fit more in each time? I did what you suggested. Ended up using 5.5 quarts concentrate and 4 quarts distilled water to fill the system and to the full mark on the reservoir. This doesn't include amount of water left in the engine. Sound ok? I assume I was plenty close with what I did? Thanks Timmy.

[@jamespinon8144]

@@TimmyTheToolman Where

[@grandmazinger73]

Timmy The Toolman, This is a great video on how to flush the cooling system when filled with Preston coolant. I have a 2008 4Runner V6 and I the systems is filled with the correct pink Toyota coolant the only problem is that it's old and no longer cooling that well. Do you recommend flushing the system as many times as you did even though I have the correct pink Toyota coolant? I figure you did all those flushes to remove all the green Preston coolant. I would appreciate any recommendations, thank a bunch.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If your engine isn't cooling well, a simple flush might not be enough. You might want to replace your radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses and the thermostat. If you don't want to replace the radiator just yet, I would drain the radiator, fill the system up with distilled water, run it for a while and drain it again to see if you can get more gunk out of the system. The fact that it's not cooling well leads me to believe some of the cooling channels in the radiator are blocked up and a flush might not be enough.

[@yotagang3705]

Ok Tim I hate the green crap just like your friend and i prefer the toyota red for my 3rz reg cab. So I drain radiator, then fill with distilled then run engine, then rinse and repeat. Now my whole cooling system has mostly distilled, now I add the concentrate? then add the premixed crap

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Based off how much you drained out on the last round, and knowing how much the system holds from your owner's manual, you subtract the amount you drained out from the total capacity to figure out how much distilled water is left in the system. When you have that value, you first add pure coolant concentrate equal to that value so the residual in the system is now a 50/50 mix. Then you follow that up with topping off the rest of the system with a 50/50 mix. You can make your own 50,/50 mix with the concentrate and distilled water. You don't need to use a premixed 50,/50.

[@yotagang3705]

@@TimmyTheToolman thx Tim i’ll be a Toyota technician by the end of watching all your vidz

[@hollowgr0und]

Tim, I’ve heard some talk about draining the 5VZ block of all coolant. People say there’s a drain plug bolt on the passenger side of the block. Can you confirm this step is necessary?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There IS a drain plug on the passengers side of the block. We can confirm. You can see us drain this in our 3.4L swap series. - Sean

[@MojaveHardware]

Are you sure there is still 1.5qt in the system? Looks like that’s what is sitting on top in the funnel

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's based on what was drained out into the 18 quart container and comparing that amount to what the system capacity holds. So yes, I'm sure. I think maybe you skimmed past that part of the video where we are explaining how we figured out how much water was left in the system after the final flush.

[@danielvoulkos8274]

Thanks for helpful info Tim.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Daniel.

[@bujarshahini1773]

I learn a lot of stuff from you you are HERO

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear you're learning a lot from our channel. Does that make us heroes by sharing information to empower people to do their own auto mechanic work? I don't think we're heroes. We're just a couple guys contributing to the DIY Auto Mechanic Community and Paying it Forward because we've been helped by people sharing information on KZbin, Toyota forums and other areas of the internet. Anyway, we do appreciate the kind words. Happy Learning and Wrenching!

[@scottpetrie8707]

Good stuff. I just had to do this in the Orileys parking lot lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. Parking lot jobs aren't ideal, but you got it done and that's what counts.

[@sanctealphonse4510]

You flushed the radiator in the O'reileys parking lot? LOL sure they loved that.

[@jessiematamoros7100]

I have a quick question. I recently watched your video on "Cooling System Flush" because I need to replace the radiator and hoses in my 2006 Ford Mustang V6. Is it better to do a cooling system flush before replacing the radiator and hoses? This way, I can prevent any old coolant from getting into the new radiator and hoses? Thank you in advance.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, do the flush before installing the new radiator and hoses.

[@jessiematamoros7100]

@@TimmyTheToolman Perfect. Thank you so much for your quick response; I greatly appreciate it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@jessiematamoros7100 You're very welcome Jessie.

[@stevenlamb8726]

Welcome to Costco. I love you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Let me see your membership card! - Sean

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The first comment was from Sean. I don't think he's seen Idiocracy so he didn't get the reference. Nice movie quote!

[@stevenlamb8726]

@@TimmyTheToolman Heck yes! love the casual Idiocracy references!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@stevenlamb8726 "Don't worry, scro'! There're plenty of 'tards out there living really kick-ass lives. My first wife was 'tarded: She's a pilot now."