Corals Trouble. 😢

Odd things are happening. First, the Zoas were closed, now, certain Acans' tissue die back rapidly (ok, this one is likely coral warfare). The most troubling is randomly losing one head of the lime green Hammer coral with 1.5 head looking very off. What is going on?
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Instagram: @inappropriatereefer
Email: [e-mail]

[@calipsosreefs4843]

Water changes will fix everything just keep with the maintenance weekly water changes and things will get better u have to commit to it dnt stop even if things get better

[@dcobbler8897]

Best advise right here^^^^^ 9.9 outta 10 products /gimmicks will band aid the problem or replace it with another! Thanks for your comment and please push our agenda as most new hobbyists play into the hype

[@calipsosreefs4843]

@@dcobbler8897 u know it I learn the hard way,I have a friend the just went through some sps stn and I told him go back to do water changes and his reef tank is getting back on track

[@claudiomolina3257]

Set a small QT with low light and low flow, run it with chemiclean and lugols 24/7 it’ll solve a lot of the bacterial issues for many corals. Keep up with the content 👍

[@REEFPizza]

I know if u have too much clean water strange rtn/stn could happen, try removing carbon for a couples of weeks (i was using carbon, after removal in 2/3 weeks i have more clear water than before and more healthy corals!)

[@brianredban9393]

Stop doesing phosphate and nitrate just feed more. Large water change and dip in iodine not reef primer

[@spicyreef]

Thanks! I just added water to my 150! check it out :-)

[@InappropriateReefer]

Yes sir and congrats!

[@firsttimereefertv1588]

Id do a couple big water changes to help reset the water parameters and get sole fresh elements back into the system. Could be possible issue with flatworm on the hammer? Dont forget that hammers need feeding too and you will notice the difference when you do! Do your hammers have a nice layer of flesh down the skeleton?

[@Younotus455]

For bacteria. Dr Tim's is good. But fritz turbo start 900. Microbacter 7. PnS pu3ple nonsulfuric bacteria. Might help you out alittle more quickly. Dr Tim's is a dormant bacteria that takes days to become active. Just my thoughts.

[@umar]

I would say that maybe the light has played its role.. Could be time to use par meter. And complete tests for. CALCIUM MAG.. Alk etc.. and feeding.. You just had best tank come back and now it's getting cold again.. Unfortunate..

[@Ashton.munozz]

I think ur acan died from touching the leather .. I had a lobo fall and touch a acan.. Then I separated them and the acan slowly died couldn’t save it

[@navishnaik1266]

Yo im here at no views 😂 😂 😂 first view

[@ryandraper4380]

Just drag the framer ( hammer frogspawn) because if you leave it there may affect the whole colony and then you loose the hole piece vs a whole 1 or 2 head just seems like that would be the best way

[@Ak.Fishing_]

How Long Did you have Your Clownfish for? Is it 5 years already?

[@InappropriateReefer]

Yes sir, these came from the 45g cube’s early days

[@jadonduncan3212]

Give the dying coral to me instead of throwing it away😢❤️‍🩹

[@maventeckers]

Vermetids snails irritating corals!

[@slvsh1155]

Some of those hammers man are massive. Great tank

[@lanegaskins]

I would be checking all my equipment such as heaters, pumps for cracks in the housings or wires. Most heater failures happens during the summer times when they're not being used as much. Check inside the pumps magnets housing for cracks around the coils. I've seen the plastic inside there split or just wear thought the plastic and let copper out into the water. Hope you find the problem soon.

[@FranciscoRodriguez-iw5id]

Use a diamond bit saw on the dremel , much safer

[@rudra7615]

This may not be the case, but your return pump, the pipe doesn't have metal clamp holding it tight to the pump right? Should replace with plastic straps Just weird some zoas are affected and so is euphylia. You mentioned parameters are on point, so nitrates, phosphates and mag are okay. I think the answer is bacteria. You mentioned things go worse after the lights are on and afternoon. Like cyano looks clear first thing in the morning and the more the lights are on, the red slime starts to appear..maybe bacteria is the same, it increases in population throughout the day and corals do consume them at night etc.keen to see how Dr Tim's balance plays out

[@sandyraymondlowewong9705]

You should cut the ACAN before it spreads and dump the infected piece. I've seen my LFS do it to save the coral.

[@Eunos_FD3S]

It’s because they’re all drowning! Get them out of the water!

[@FOIL011]

put some crushed garlic, it has some antibacterial properties.

[@KC-iu3rq]

The amount of safety gear man..🧐 😂😂

[@jordanritchie2198]

I think ya do to much let the tank go keep hands out. And I would maybe run carbon all the time.

[@Sammy31Dee]

Personally think the coral simply had one head die off....they do that when shaded or too much flow...sometimes the entire head will bail out....could have been water change water temps were off and caused a reaction....maybe you dumped water right over it...many variables ...but definitely not brown jelly

[@RogueAquariums]

Mok-yi, have you tried using API’s furan 2 as it a bacterial medication. I’ve had good luck using it and then dipping my coral in a solution of Brightwell’s lugol iodine/Coral amino mix. Your hammer garden looks good my man. Keep up with you’re water changes and maintenance and it should come back.

[@erichine7256]

Rather than brown jelly, could it zooxanthellae being dumped by the coral? Happened recently to some of my corals including a frogspawn when I didn’t have the lighting dial in or when I needed to move a coral to a new spot.

[@TwoGayReefers]

There’s still a vermitid snail in the middle of the hammer. It could still be annoying it, get rid of the snails first 😊

[@dominicksorrento108]

Fragbox had a similar issue with zoa's. I forget what the issue was, but it's on their KZbin channel

[@Botzz28]

could be a PH issue.. you said in the afternoon they close up.. since your lights are maxed during the afternoon it changes the PH in the water.. test your PH

[@wcrow51]

I feel like you didn’t have problems until you added that new light

[@IAMELECTRIC1]

I'm curious to know what it is. All kinda started after you added the new strip light

[@AP-mq6kr]

I was thinking this too--did it start after the new strip light? If so, perhaps the problem is too much light? Would this explain the zoas closing in the afternoon (i.e. saying, ok, i've had enough of all this light)...Do note I have never had a saltwater tank (just freshwater), so really no idea what I'm talking about, but I was thinking this too

[@Ray-wr2wr]

what kind of tank you have? looks like IM

[@cantusaurus8530]

Yeah I would say too high of light/flow. And maybe some chemical coral warfare. And the SPS may just not be as affected since they’re higher up and it dilutes more before reaching them. 🤷‍♂️

[@reefphotographyig5225]

What do you use on the super glue man ? i cant understand sorry

[@luuuuuushhh]

love the videos man keep it up and good luck with everything. i always find myself at the end of your videos saying that’s it lol make longer ones !!! also your tank is an inspiration to me i just got a small frag of space invader pectina we’ll see how that does!!

[@shawnsfishtanks4515]

You’re Euphyllia corals below probably have sweeper tentaclcs stinging the lords.

[@skillz_311]

Here is what I gathered from watching several of your videos...You were switching between salt brands which drastically changed your parameters....this in turn takes weeks for the corals to show the damage. Lets say you have an 8 head hammer colony and you see 1 head start to RTN/STN, even if you frag the heads and toss the dead one out.....most of the time the whole colony will die because the damage was already done weeks ago when you changed the salt. This is true for people who purchase corals from vendors as well. lots of times we buy frags and it dies in our tanks and we think its something wrong with our tank.....sometimes it can be, but other times it was something prior to us receiving that coral. I am sadly going through this ordeal....I did the rookie mistake and switched from a low ALK salt to a red sea coral pro and i've lost about 5 hammers and 2 torch's and it took 3 weeks for the damage to show.

[@Night_City_Vibes]

Are you running Ozone and UV ?

[@EastSideAquatics]

Cue dramatic music!

[@swarf7251]

I feel your pain right now, I'm battling a stinging hydroid that is spread throughout my tank, have started moving all corals to plugs to try and save everything. I cant seem to get rid of them as even after replacing all rockwork they were in the pipework and reinfected the whole system :( going to attempt to setup a second system for corals and fish and literally starv the tank till they die or I will have to just start fresh.

[@luuuuuushhh]

i had a similar issue and saw that a sea hair specifically the dolabella sea hair can graze on them maybe look into that befor starting the new tank good luck

[@colossuses]

Manually remove hydroids and most important use a clarasea filter or the like to remove their food particles from water. My tank used to be covered in them, still there but minimal. I tried all fish and invert methods and found them non effective. Removing food particle source is the only thing that worked for me. And stop feeding corals!

[@Felis-Concolor]

Hey inappropriate reefer, I have a 48x24x16 waterbox frag 105.4 and I have 2 AI primes on it and they are at 100% intensity. When I checked the PAR I'm only getting 45 PAR on the sand bed, 70 PAR for my euphyllia garden, and 100 PAR on the top of the rocks. Is this enough to keep soft corals and LPS? I feel as if it's too weak but don't have the budget to buy 2 more expensive lights. Any advice?

[@InappropriateReefer]

For me personally, that’d be enough for softies and LPS; although I’d feel a little better if we could get a little bit more powerrrr

[@maventeckers]

I would add a third one and space them out evenly for lps

[@ethancastleman2180]

Yeah I think you just need to do more water changes. I do a water change weekly.

[@ecnanoreef500]

good video

[@joshuaacrvedo390]

hey does anyone have tips on a light or any equipment i should use i want to make a reef tank for my 36 gallon bow front from topfin i’m a beginner and would like some tips

[@McReef2950]

What is your price budget?

[@joshuaacrvedo390]

@@McReef2950 honestly just want something that’ll work well light i’m willing to spend up to 300

[@bigbowlowrong4694]

The Vermetid Snails were obviously the culprit for that green hammer. They are seriously evil and a massive pain in the ass.

[@gertjan2212]

You tank is looking awesome 😀 Too bad the acan died.. My euphyllia's have retracted heads too sometimes.. And the amount the coral expands varies too from time to time. I think u should let the coral be and maybe crank up the flow for the euphyllia's.. I didn't see them move much and they do need to be moving.. Mine get quite strong chaotic and laminar flow and about 200 - 250 par and they do great. If a lps coral is struggling it helps alot to taget feed them. I use reefroids or fauna marin lps food which work great. Do watch the nutrients whan feeding corals and be ware of critters and fish stealing the food out of the coral. Good luck

[@ecnanoreef500]

could the tangs not maybe be trying to pick algea between the heads causing damage?

[@neilstewart9286]

Water change , carbon , weekly , also u though of ozone? I know it can kill beneficial critters etc but u can always add more of the beneficial if needed, or jus let the sumo repopulate the stuff that ozone would kill , ozone may not attack bacteria in the column but it might

[@Jarekmany]

I'm wondering. Maybe it's an electrical appliance problem. Look the Fragbox Corals " Tank crash" movie .

[@dennisvanopstal7360]

Saw that one. But thats overnight many corals and fish dead. This is just a few corals and one partially.

[@steveny1953]

I had a seemlier issues but issue was high nitrate took out a green hammer torch and 2 acans all polyp bailed I know ur pain brother

[@maventeckers]

Look up calcium carbonate dosing for vermetids snails

[@Ashton.munozz]

Yoooo power back on

[@jkroblox9723]

Inappropriate Reefer What lights are you using for your reef tank . thanks

[@skylerjkorn]

have you taken a tissue sample of the zoas and looked at it under the microscope? same with frogspawn.

[@maokinus]

For the hammer maybe try cutting from the other healthier side? That way you can separate at least some of it from the issue.

[@13gallonreefinging55]

It’s looking better though just keep up the awesome job

[@t.regnerus301]

Iodine dip that stuff asap. CVS has the kind you want.

[@gabesreef]

👍🏾

[@reefrichs6719]

Use an iodine based dip for damaged corals not a pest based dip.

[@legendaryc4917]

RIP to tha DripLord!!!

[@admv941]

You can spot a bad reefer from a mile away when they can’t keep softies.

[@Night_City_Vibes]

It’s a battle between oxidizers and reducers.

[@MrMushroomish]

Have you tried hitting the redfeld ratio?

[@dcobbler8897]

How the heck did u get reef sensei overrr????

[@brianredban9393]

Dip with iodine for brown jelly

[@tonyresendez3120]

How do you get your frogspawn to color up?

[@weslleyartur9525]

Boa tarde amigo, teria como colocar a tradução em português, acompanho seu canal por causa de seus aquários mas não sei inglês fico sem entender nada. Coloca tradução em português por favor. Abraços aqui do Brasil...

[@yusef54321]

I think you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned bacteria balance I personally think your tank has to much bacteria in it from not enough exporting (filter socks and skimming) Every time I’ve let my tank get to dirty I’ll have zoas close up and shortly after that they’ll begin melting away same with torches and hammers brown jelly happens to me every time I let my tank get to dirty So there is a really fine balance between filtering the right amount of junk out of the tank but leaving just a smudge enough for the good beneficial bacteria to thrive otherwise next you’ll be battling dynos and cyano from a tank being to clean So happy your sps are thriving good sign! Tanks not that far off from where it needs to be imo just keep it a little cleaner Imo also could be beneficial to run uv sterilizer slow gpm and ozone can also help the tank stay clean and kill off excess bacteria 🦠 Good luck with your tank buddy and happy reefing 🙂

[@jackomalley3938]

👍👍

[@CrushDontRush]

Love your videos sir !! Any chance you get another Frogfish ?!

[@rolisreefranch]

Purit

[@InappropriateReefer]

Got it running in a media reactor for 3 weeks so far

[@HCBCHEMISTRY]

Some expert

[@InappropriateReefer]

Never claimed to be one; # of views/subs is just a number, hardly equals knowledge as you can see. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@zerberus2525]

🤦‍♂️

[@rudra7615]

Bro...the channel is called "inappropriate reefer"... C'mon man..

[@mrmarshstacks1984]

Not expert, he's my guru lol. Don't even have a tank yet but consuming all his great content i can soak up. He's knowledgeable and doesn't pretend to know all and still is striving to learn. That's inspirational to me because as i said haven't even began my tank, seemed to be just to much to it. But slowly I've gained the confidence to start saving towards it and give it a shot, and i can say i wouldn't be here without inappropriate reefer. Wish dude was my neighbor so could shadow him and soak in more lol.

[@dennisvanopstal7360]

Well expert You tell whats going on. Enlight youtube with your knowledge