CoreXY Done Right - Flying Bear Ghost 6 Review

[@boryshacker]

My ghost 5 is rock solid and even better with klipper. This one seems even betterer :)

[@tempeczek]

Man, thank you for making such a detailed review. I just found this channel by looking for opinions about FBG6, but I'm going to be turning to your insights for other printers in the future for sure if I need more information. The analysis of upgrade-ability is something I rarely see in the channels I usually look at.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah it takes a lot of extra time and risks damaging the printer, so I can see why most people don’t do it. This is one of the most serviceable and upgradable pre-assembled Corexy printers.

[@beauslim]

Making belts play a certain note is a widespread misunderstanding. It is a technique used in industry, but the correct frequency depends on the length of the belt and the correct tension as specified by the manufacturer. On CoreXY, making different-length belts play the same tone (i.e. all at different tensions) can throw everything out of square.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

In this case I believe the 2 belts were at the same length. Basically the distance along the X axis between the idlers on the left side carriage block and the left side of the printhead

[@tactiti0n]

Belt notes are bullshit. Your goal on a coreXY is to have your XY square, the note tones are just mumbo jumbo.

[@travistucker7317]

@@tactiti0n what is your procedure? I'm trying to find a better one

[@tactiti0n]

@@travistucker7317 I use Mark Rehorst Tech Blog post under the title "the coreXY belt tuning myth" which has helped me a lot. Hopefully, will help you too : )

[@travistucker7317]

@tactiti0n ok cool. I've thought about this 3 times today wondering if you responded. I'm check it out tomorrow. Thanks man.

[@Henry-by8en]

Nice video! Would highly recommend building a Voron. They're coreXY, and very well built and hackable

[@crewneckdeath6801]

or a ratrig

[@Henry-by8en]

@@crewneckdeath6801 from what I understand Vorons come enclosed whereas ratrigs are a little harder to enclose

[@crewneckdeath6801]

@@Henry-by8en ok i am just curious to know if anything thats more reliable and easier than the crealitys

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I would but they are expensive and I’ve got enough consumer easy setup printers to review at the moment. If someone sent me a kit I’d try it out

[@morbus5726]

@@Henry-by8en the new ratrig design is very easy to enclose

[@silverraider2688]

I would be interested to see its speed tested, Voron and Ratrig are bot premium speed core xy machines, Ratrig is just a bit beefier of a setup.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Based on the thin steel rods in the x gantry, the single Z lead screw, and the lack of input shaping, I don’t think this is geared for speed in its stock configuration. That said, I bet with klipper, it would be about the same as the Ender 5 S1, in the 200+mm/s range with 5k accelerations. I’d be interested to try out the flying bear ghost reborn. *AHEM* (flyingbearifyouarelistenting) That one uses linear rails and I think is more set up to be a speed demon.

[@3DPrintSOS]

Excited to try this machine. Thanks for giving us all the details!

[@avejst]

The most impressive detail, I think, is the use of a LGX copy extruder design. Great review Thanks for sharing your experience with All of us 👍😀

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, a copy but all injection molded design. Brings the price down quite significantly.

[@Rolohaun]

Great review and nice machine, I wish it was available in Canada for a reasonable price not $780

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Dang, it's about $310 on Aliexpress here.

[@GraemeRobinson]

Dude, how can you not use wifi? I almost never shuffle SD cards anymore. I was quite interested in hearing about the wifi capability for this model but it looks like I'll have to look elsewhere.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Fair enough. I just get tired of typing my Wi-Fi password into the little screen. The only Wi-Fi interface I like is klipper.

[@corlissmedia2.0]

Excellent work! I appreciated the wiring safety portions of the video very much. I do wish you’d address the 2 ground wires on the FG list of the BIQU Hurakan. I would like to know what you think of my solution.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I’ll take another stab at the hurricane when time allows, I clicked through your video on it, but I’ll need to sit down and analyze it to really see what’s going on. Best guess is 1-2 months out?

[@corlissmedia2.0]

@@NathanBuildsRobots my bottom line is, I would like to know if my single connector solution is safe, or is the machine going to burn everything in it when I turn on again?

[@moorevfr]

Please add your podcast to Apples Podcast platform?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

We are trying, not sure what the hold up is, but it seems like Apple wants some additional checks before we get on there

[@JonLaRue]

This is a really cool machine. Thanks for showing it and NBR'ing it = take it apart and the comedy that comes along with it. I have been listening to Perfect First Layer soooo educational.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Glad you enjoyed it! The podcast has been a ton of fun, definitely allows us to explore issues in a different way than on YT

[@MrBaskins2010]

would be dope to replace the panel on the left with a mirror. the quality on this one is nice for the price. the printer space is looking nice now that people are starting to stray from the ender 3 blueprint. i think the fan speed is too high on the 0.6mm print. my 0.8mm journey only grew after I lessened my flow and fan

[@theplaidgamer1653]

You mentioned that you used Prusaslicer. Do you have any recommendations on how to configure my print profile?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I just used an Ender 3 S1 profile I think

[@hunt0583]

Do you recommend this printer? Does it require any kind of special maintenance? I’m looking at getting this as a reliable 3rd printer maybe.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

It’s pretty good, it highly depends on what your priorities are. No special maintenance by the look of it.

[@lrochfort]

I'm considering getting either this or the Ender 3 v3 KE. Which would people choose?

[@Recycled]

Seems really nice for the price. Does the nozzle go up past 260 degrees, since the all metal hotend can be installed, or will it be needed to hack the firmware?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Have not checked that. Wouldn’t surprise me if the firmware was limited to 260, but since it’s a standard board it should be pretty easy to get a custom build of marlin, or klipper installed

[@rshotty9039]

not enough Boron Nitride paste, for sure

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I know, I’m cheaping out on the boron nitride. It’s going to come back to bite me later on but we are in a recession and I need to make do with less.

[@sierraecho884]

I really wish they would finally stop using those shitty 30mm cooling fans for the heatsink and use a 4020 or 4010 fan instead.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Didn’t cause any problems for me… but you are so inclined, it would not be difficult to fit one I there

[@sierraecho884]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Well I had problems with that in the past so I replaced the 30mm fan on my Hiprecy Leo printer which is otherwise a pretty neat machine for 300bucks, however due to the design of the print head it cause me quet some headache because the carriage is designed in such a way where a 40mm fan does not fit without again other modifications, very annoying. A 40mm fan is quieter and more mainstream anyway, it´s not a bad idea to design the carriage with a 40mm fan from the beginning. Nice videos btw, are you a mech. engineer by trade like me ?

[@PyroNine9]

Thank you for addresing repairability and modability, those are important to me and I imigine a lot of people. Do you know what firmware it's running?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I assume it's running Marlin. I've heard of people flashing klipper to the old model, the Ghost 5, so I'm sure this one can be set to run Klipper relatively easily.

[@johnvira1529]

Nathan, I have a Ender 3 S1 with metal hot end.. do you Think the ender 5 s1 a good upgrade path ?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Depends on if you really need two printers. Ender 5 is maybe 50% faster but does not offer any advantage in terms of larger print volume or print quality. Plus there are some quality issues that you will have to fix on the Ender 5, with the bed leveling not working 100%.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I’m working on a fix for the Ender 5 bed level issue, will release a video in maybe 2 weeks. Hoping it works because it would fix the main issue I have with that machine

[@johnvira1529]

@@NathanBuildsRobots looking for faster and more consistent

[@johnvira1529]

@@NathanBuildsRobots also I only printing PETG so hoping enclosure would help as well

[@DARKredDOLLAR]

How did you even bend that ender lol :D my s1 is rock solid :D

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

It's the Ender 3 Plus, the frame is built a little different. Instead of the vertical aluminum extrusion being attached with a butt joint, it's more bolted onto the sides, which is clearly a lot weaker.

[@omarpimentel5061]

So no auto bed leveling on this printer?

[@AdrianoCasemiro]

Great analysis on this otherwise obscure brand (to me, at least). Gotta love a good execution on a cheap-ish core xy machine. Love the channel, your humor and all, but let me tell you, my friend. You should seek help to end that boron nitride fetiche, but I'm no judge here.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The way the syringe is designed it just comes out like that each time I try to use it. The tip dries out and forms a plug so whenever I go to apply a little drop it just sploogrs out. I’m genuinely not doing it on purpose! Would make a lot more sense to use a half of a pea sized amount!

[@AdrianoCasemiro]

@@NathanBuildsRobots so it's a nice coincidence. The thermal paste application are a cornerstone of your (excellent) modding videos. I'll miss that if you ever find a better syringe.

[@Recycled]

It was so funny because I expected him to clean up the mess immediately but it cuts and he's made an even bigger mess

[@benblahshaw]

Thanks for the recommendation!

[@JoeWayne84]

It needs to come with a all metal hot ends and a BL touch with klipper and resonate compensation . Then it be a great option.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

All metal hot end is a bad idea for the market segment this is designed to target. Nubs don't handle jams well and will return printers that jam to quickly from purchase. this can cause a company to fail before it starts being profitable. It is important to understand your target audience and they chose correctly here. It would be a good option to have added though and a dual head would also be a easy option to add as well.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, I cut a 3-5 minute discussion of why ptfe lined makes more sense for noob printer. Creality does some all metal version with high temp, just call it “pro”

[@ClintonCaraway-CNC]

I got to 6:45 of the video and just had to ask for a couple hundred dollars more.... why not buy the P1P???

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

P1P is $699, this on Aliexpress is $314. P1P is twice the price, but you could argue twice the printer. Not everyone has $699 to spend on a printer, so the price difference is not trivial. Also this part is completely user servicable - you can keep it running for 10+ years. Bambulabs parts are not user serviceable, probably will be shot in 2 years. Lots of differences, I plan on analyzing that in a future video, specifically comparing P1P to Ender 5 S1

[@IvanJoel]

At the end of the video I finally realized they were two different bulbaswole STLs

[@rafaelvidal6390]

is it possible to put a v6 style hotend on that?

[@charlesrestivo870]

Can a bl touch or CR be adapted to it

[@ТопорищевКонстантин]

Как с новым хотэндом с заменой сопел?

[@corlissmedia2.0]

My apologies, but a squeaky belt? And it was fixed by the transfer of grease from your fingertips to it? I'm having a really hard time believing that. For one thing, in the short video, you're saying that you lubricated the back of the belt. But how does the back of the belt come in contact with the toothed wheel or smooth wheel it's going around? Isn't the back of the belt on the OUTSIDE of the wheel????? Please clarify.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Referring to the P1P, most of the idlers roll along the backside of the timing belt (along the smooth surface). When the belt is transitioning from less tension to more tension over a pulley, it stretches slightly, and can rub when that change in length occurs over the drum of the pulley. I beleive that small amount of shear between the pulley and belt is what was causing a squeaking noise, since the belts were completely dry and somewhat sticky. A trace amount of grease was enough to interrupt that sticky surface between the belt and pulley, and got rid of the creaking/squeaking noise.

[@corlissmedia2.0]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I wonder if the hole in the gear is larger than the axle/screw going through it? That would allow the gear to lean with the force, and could create all kinds of wear problems.

[@jasontrauer]

The bigger the crimp the bigger the pimp. - A. Lincoln

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Tinned tips sink ships 🚢

[@53Aries]

Finally!

[@mred9335]

Nathan you are awesome , I love what you do.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Thanks, this review took about 3x longer to edit because I covered a lot of ground. But I believe it is quite comprehensive!

[@mred9335]

@@NathanBuildsRobots btw I binged the whole effing podcast, it's awesome 3 points of view coming together

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@mred9335 Nice! Make sure to let us know if you have any questions. It helps keep us focused on things that people actually care about listening to!

[@tadhgd350]

im not sure id call that corexy done right conisdering the substantial amount of play in the toolhead and the pretty terrible layer stacking (though thats more likely an extruder issue)

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Meh, it’s cheaper than most bedslingers and is Corexy. Prints good enough to get my approval.

[@tadhgd350]

@@NathanBuildsRobots low standards

[@ThantiK]

What exactly is "done right" about this CoreXY? I see no carbon fiber to lighten up the gantry. You showed that it's pretty flexible in its current configuration. The bed is cantilevered and thus less stable than a bed mounted on the sides - your description of the bearings being the reason this is a good/bad thing is missing half of the equation; proper gussets will determine the stiffness of the far end, which will determine it's usefulness as a build platform. As of right now that thing looks like a pool dive board with how springy it is... Re:Belts -- CoreXYs need to have _balanced_ belt tension. If this thing doesn't have some sort of levered/geared apparatus to tension belts, you'll never be able to tension them correctly - but should be able to get it close enough for day to day operation. Re: Hot end - holy fucking yikes. Do they know what a heat-break does? They've practically got the thing screwed up right against the hot block. This hot end is a disaster. You did a decent job with the on-the-fly upgrade.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah the heatbreak made me lol. It’s just screwed all the way in. But hey, it works. What I like about it is the whole thing can be taken apart and serviced with ease, and built with mod-ability and long term service in mind. Also, super cheap on aliexpress! The whole motion system could stand to be stiffened up. But, for the price I’m pretty happy with it. I tried to show the flex of all the parts, so you can judge it for yourself. Not going to be as accurate or fast as the bambu lab printer, but wins in serviceability and price

[@samhughes1747]

Dude! Knipex is da bomb! Also, yeah, I’m really enjoying my Ghost 6, but your video would have made me much more confident in the initial purchase. My Trianglelabs 63W CHC arrives today or tomorrow, which is what it looks like you’ve got. I’m not sure if you’re using aluminum or titanium heat-breaks, but I really like working with copper-titanium-copper heat-breaks.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I always overtighten the bi-metal ones and break them. I prefer titanium because if you break it you know its broken, vs bi-metal its kind of a latent failure that is hard to detect, that might work loose over time from the initial damage of over twisting them.

[@samhughes1747]

@@NathanBuildsRobots, sounds like a lesson for me, lurking down a future alleyway. I certainly can’t fault the logic. It still feels like a lot of meltzone to give up, even if it eliminates a failure point. I’ve seen comments about over tightening in reviews, and my brother has snapped off a hotblock which could be chalked up to a loose heatbreak, but it just hasn’t bitten me yet.

[@hashbringer975]

How do you enjoy this printer? Ware there any issues with it out of the box? And would you recommend it? Looking for inputs for my next 3D printer. 😅

[@samhughes1747]

@@hashbringer975, it’s a printer that just flat-out nails the basics. Nothing super special, but there’s nothing wrong with it from the factory. First, and I imagine why anyone else checks it out, it’s semi-enclosed from the go. I wanted to stop futzing around with ABS and ASA, and I can now reliably print them without tons of prep work. The printer is direct-drive from the factory, with 20mm drive gears. It uses a pancake stepper that could be smaller, but is plenty light enough. The gearing is at 6.5:1, so this ends up being very consistent. The hotend is a PTFE deal with an aluminum V6-style block, so this could have been better. The heatsink uses a unique mounting-method, so it’s not easy to swap in another heatsink, but you can throw whatever you want in, from the heatbreak down. I have basically the same setup now as you saw in the video. The fans are 100% ok. Not fantastic, but they have 2x 4010 blowers, instead of just one, and the duct design isn’t a 45-degree elbow screwed onto the fan, like with Creality designs, so yeah, just a “Meh, ok”. Importantly, it’s not bad, though. The hotend electronics do all get routed to a breakout board, which is very nice. One of the mods I’ve done to every other printer I have is to add connectors into the cable, so I don’t need to open the electronics box every time I change components. They got ahead of that right-quick, and I love it! The bed is a glass deal, which is normally great for having a smooth, very even bed. I am a freak for PEI-coated spring-steel, so I swapped an aftermarket surface on, there. The glass bed was, however, thoroughly useful, and I had no problems with it. So all told, this printer doesn’t fall into any of the usual traps, and has been printing reliably from day one!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@hashbringer975 Mine worked straight out of the box. I have heard of 2 issues on this machine: 1) SD card on mainboard not working 2) Extruder not working If you end up with either of those issues Flying Bear should send you replacement parts

[@f1hotrod527]

Just ordered the Reborn 2. $380 for a 325 x 325 build area, 359 degree hotend, build like a brick shit house, was to much to pass up.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah I saw 3D print SOS video on it. That thing looks awesome

[@CatGus]

Seems like at this price it should have all metal hot end and abl guess I just have to build a rook

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Rook is not enclosed and uses a majority of printed parts and requires much more assembly and wiring. There are pros and cons to each setup, but the rook looks a lot more fun, and is designed around klipper, which makes it better than this machine in a loooot of ways. If I was looking for my 1st or 2nd printer I’d go for the ghost, if I wanted a fast fun little project printer I’d go rook.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

500 bucks for a replicator clone that is not even dual head??? HARD PASS!!!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

What if it was $310? www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804173160662.html

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

@@NathanBuildsRobots yup, that makes a huge difference!

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Crimped ends are actually NOT professional as they add failure points and resistance. How do I know? Electrical engineering degree comes in hand now and then. Those soldered ends on a locking washer were more than adequate and you made it worse.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Hmm, will agree to disagree. If the crimped spade connectors are bad, then why do they use them on all of the power supply side for the 24v line?

[@TMS5100]

cantilever bed, whyyyyyyyyy. 😩

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Because cheap!

[@ТопорищевКонстантин]

Скручивать жилы кабеля нельзя под обжимку☝

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Had to downvote for minor misinformation, otherwise great review.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Appreciate the honest downvote.