Correct leg aids to engage the horse's back

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Will Faerber shows you the correct leg aids to help the rider engage their horses back.

[@6767smithy]

That's a very good explanation as I used to constantly squeeze my legs. No wonder I have sore hips.

[@ArttoRide]

If the horse get agitated when you use the spur you probably don't have enough control over your use of them and so by all means just use your heel. Most horse's should not be ridden in spurs until they are confirmed over there backs as you don't want the horse to become dead to the spur.

[@ArttoRide]

Use what we call the circle progression of the aids, that is always apply the aid softly and quickly, never holding the aid against the horse, if the horse doesn't respond, ask with more intensity the next time, do that, increasing the pressure each time, until you get a response and then, go through that progression each time you apply the aid. In case of the leg, back it up with a touch of the whip by about the third try if you don't get a response so that you are never kicking with you leg.

[@HorseLoverNoOne]

he did it for one stride yesterday and i totally get what you mean by the feeling then i couldnt get him to do it again, but i forgot to praise him the first time because i was in a omg moment.

[@esmaymaynard9138]

I have a lovely gelding I purchased early this year to get into show jumping with. He raced until the age of 6, had a six month spell and then was taken by a young show jumping rider, who competed with him for a year (up to 95cm courses). He then had another six month spell, and I bought him straight off spell. When I went to try him, she rode him in draw reins for the first 10 minutes, which she said was to 'get him in the right frame of mind for collection' - a method she learned from a very successful world cup show jumper, I might add. I didn't agree with it, however I didn't say anything either as it wasn't my place. All the other tack was simple though, and he was a very quiet, cruisy horse to ride, but I could tell he was stiff, so not TRULY relaxed. He has a very big stride, and tends to go with his head up in the air (even when she had him 'collected', his head carriage was very high and straight, rather than a gentle curve to the pole). When he arrived at my property, he was quite skinny, dull and stressed. Tucked up and dehydrated from the long trip in the Australian heat. It took me about six months of slowly building up his feed (I kept it very simple - good pasture, lots of hay and small amounts of simple hard feeds which I slowly increased as he gained condition). His feet needed quite a lot of attention, an I had some massage done on him and his saddle fitted. It's only now that I feel he has really balanced out physically, enough to do some real work (his previous owner has been pestering me asking when I'm going to compete him, why I'm not riding him more etc). I have ignored her and taken my time. Now, when I ride, I am careful to be very light with my hands, as I have another horse who overbends very easily with too much contact, and I don't want him to develop that problem either. With a light contact, he just travels with his head up in the air. I am starting to get a very very small amount of relaxation through the neck and he has dropped it a little lower a few times. I have ordered myself a chambon, also, having watched your lunging video. I wanted to know exactly what the correct aids are for asking him to drop his head and go long and low (seeking out the contact, as you put it) and bring his back up? I am not sure what to do with my hands! He is neither strong in the mouth nor overly sensitive - if I apply even pressure to the bit, his response is to quickly transition downwards, sometimes from trot to halt even. It's not incredibly jagged or anything, but his previous owner, again, taught him to come to a halt after jumps, as a measure to prevent him getting too strong/excited (not that he has ever displayed those tendencies with me, but it's a common practice among show jumpers apparently). SO I want to be sure I'm doing things correctly. I have been to a couple of instructors, but haven't found yet found one that I feel really wants to take their time and do things properly the way you do.

[@ArttoRide]

Answered by Art2Ride Associate Trainers: Anne Saari It sounds great that you have realised the value of correct training and that you want to apply that on your horses. You will be rewarded for your patience :) The best way to train your hands and be able to see how your horse reacts is to do WIH. WIH is like riding from the ground. You should seek for a soft even contact with the horses mouth. I have noticed it is better to be too soft than the other way around from the beginning to really allow for the horse to reach down and out to your contact. The thing is, the hands are really only picking up the horses energy from behind. To get the horse to stretch in to your hand you have to get it to step under with his hind legs and push from behind. As when riding you should aim to "ride" your horse in the WIH to the outside rein and that is done by doing lateral movements. You do train your hands in lunging as well (but not as good as in the WIH) and you should strive for a soft even contact (never "hold on" to the horses mouth). But the stretch still comes from the horse stepping under from behind and moving into your soft contact. Good luck! Yvon Hoogervorst I think you should concentrate on the hind end of the horse. And the back. Most people are very focused on the position of the neck and head. Of course it is important that you don't restrict the neck and head. But once you understand that you have to follow the horses neck and mouth and not put the neck into a certain position, it will come automatically. Focus on the hindlegs stepping under the body, keep him relaxed but active and 'give' the reins to the horse - but keep contact. It is great that you are not in a hurry and give your horse the time to develop. And to heal from the former abusive training methods. Kudos for that! Be and stay patient with your horse: try to do WIH and lunging. Look at the several videos on A2R. Good luck and send in a video! Katherine Potter Kudos on standing for the welfare of your horse in the face of overwhelming odds! I think all your issues with contact will disappear once you get the horse working effectively over his back. Will has a lot of helpful videos, and here is one from an associate trainer that clearly shows the corrections that improve your sensitivity and lead to proper work - once the horse is stretching consistently, you just need to wait until the muscles are strong enough - the evidence will be clear as your horse relaxes into the work and seeks the contact with the bit in an elastic friendly way. Try this to start: www.macphailequestrian.com/.../You-can-always-go-back Chelsea MacPhail It's nice to hear what you have done for him, it sounds like he was in for a tough life before you got him. The chambon can be helpful to keep him from traveling around hollow but you don't have to use it to get the stretch your looking for either so I would try it and see how he does. When your lunging what you really want is good activity in the walk or trot and then to simply bring him on a slightly smaller circle to encourage a shoulder-fore position where he steps more underneath and towards the center of his body with his inside hind leg. When he starts to lower his head simply allow him to walk or trot on a bigger circle so that he gets rewarded for moving into the stretch. Then it's simply about consistency, when he hollows ask for a shoulder-fore position, when he stretches let him back out on a nice big circle. The chambon can be a super tool just make sure you adjust the chambon so that he can still maintain his poll even with his withers when its attached, you want to make sure that you're not forcing his head down into the stretch. I would also start with it very loose at first so that he can put his head up a bit above his withers so that he doesn't feel stuck and panic. Slowly adjust it down once he gets used to it. I would definitely watch this video to see the adjustment of the chambon and Will also discusses using the smaller circle to encourage the stretch! Good luck :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipjZlWtqoq6seZo Chambon: It's correct use and adjustment youtube.com Allison Emily Brunelli Hi there, I have a horse that developed the exact same issue to rider contact. He would slow down and/or stiffen to any contact made by the rider on his mouth even when it was even contact. I did not ride for five months. I lunged with a cavesson. And I began my learning journey with WIH. I would like to ditto Anne's reply about the value of WIH and how it teaches a handler how to develop correct contact with the horse's mouth in the effort of correctly stretching the horse. Focus on developing an active hind end AND lateral steps AND that will trigger your horse to begin stretching AND you will then need to develop your connection to the horse's mouth as he takes the bit down. It's an art. As the horse is first starting to lower his pole and lengthen his neck, follow him down, but be very careful not to give too much rein and drop the connection to his mouth. At the same time don't hold him above his willingness to stretch. At first error on the side of exaggerating the give in the rein since your horse has history. As he gains trust that you won't grab his face, he will start to lower even more and he should let you take a steadier contact to his mouth. I can't believe my horse came around and is as supple and soft in his mouth as he is now. I never thought it possible after all he's been through. Don't ride for a few more months while you do WIH and build more trust. The problem with riding when he's not trusting enough is that usually riders inadvertently bump the horse's mouth too much because they aren't as steady as they should be. That was and still is my issue. However, my horse is sooo much more trusting and forgiving of me now that he has spent five months without being ridden incorrectly and hollow. The WIH,done correctly, really calms and relaxes the horse and build skills in both rider and horse. Definitely lunge and go with the advice of the other associates. I went with the cavesson to get the bridle off his face and the bit out of his mouth and I think that helped his mouth get the break it needed for five months while I didn't ride. When you get back on, only ride a few days a week so you don't overshadow the WIH you're doing, which should at that point be really really good and your feel for keeping the contact during the stretch should be developing quite well. Another tip: take time in the WIH to do plenty of transitions from straight lines and a two track to leg yields on diagonal lines and shoulder ins on three tracks so that you learn how to adjust your hand/rein connection to your horse's mouth because it's not easy and it will not only help you get your horse to stretch deeper but also and equally as important, force you to fine tune your use of your hands and wrists and fingers to keep constant but allowing contact. If you strive every day to become a better handler of your reins YOU WILL BECOME QUITE GOOD AT IT. And remember, it's very important that the outside rein have that steady contact, and you'll need to be able to supple the horse's jaw with your inside rein without pulling him onto his inside shoulder. And you'll need to be able to use that outside rein to keep him from falling out the circle with his outside shoulder. So use your whip or your elbow in the WIH to keep him working toward the outside rein and not falling in, just as Anne mentioned. You will get there! I did. And many, many others have retrained successfully. Don't rush him. You'll be greatly rewarded!

[@esmaymaynard9138]

ArttoRide wow! thank you so much for the response! it's a bit overwhelming but I'll try to follow all this as best I can. I don't have an arena or flat surface to work on at the moment (we live on the side of a hill), however I have 100ac of commonland at my disposal which does have some level ground. I just rode him off the property for the first time yesterday in fact - not very far, just a taste to see how he'd respond. He was great, so I am slowly going to increase the distance each time, except now I'll do it with WIH rather than ridden. I do have footage of us before trying your advice. The only thing I've changed about my riding is that I am leaving his mouth alone and stopped asking him to lower it with my hands. just keeping a steady, light contact and driving forward. He is naturally on the lazy side, so this allows me to keep a very soft contact and push him without worrying that he'll give me 'too much forward', so to speak haha. He really has the most gentle nature for an ex racehorse - especially one with a long career. I also have some footage of him with his previous owner (when I went to see him and also prior) which I will send, although I'd appreciate if it wasn't shared with anyone else. I so appreciate your taking the time to help people like myself without profit, it's amazing to see in this day and age. I applaud you for your generosity, thank you all! I will endeavour to upload footage and send you the links via private message if that works?

[@jingtinghui7681]

Very helpful and clear explanation.

[@keiramantey2224]

Oh my gosh I love that saddle pad though

[@jillholland6504]

thank you a very clear explanation

[@kirstencarlson7603]

This helps so much, thank you

[@ArttoRide]

1. yes, but it will not give you support that a high boot will provide. As a beginner, that may make a difference to you. 2. The best thing you can do is to be the fittest you can possibly be, however, just know that riding uses muscles that no other form of exercise uses, so just plan on being a little bit sore. Remember to take it easy and ride for short periods of time in the beginning.

[@keiramantey2224]

Also this is great advice I'm starting to get a little further into riding and I like to watch these videos

[@mandwhy77]

These videos are great thank you!

[@jennrummy]

Fabulous, great explanation, as usual. Thanks so much.

[@sarahlanham3792]

I'm an eventer, and in eventing we also do dressage- so flat work is very important. If I wanted to teach someone how to lift a horses back- this is how I would try to explain! You described this consept very well :)

[@Imarmio]

Thank you very much for an excellent explanation!

[@LittleMissVigor]

Beginning dressage rider, here. A friend recommended your videos; I've been watching some and can't tell you how much it's helping. With regard to this video, do you have any video where you explain the same thing at the same time as showing how the move affects the back? (A visual to go with the explanation). Thanks!

[@enteratA]

Great explanation! Thank you.

[@livelovelaughride1]

It would have been neat to see that in action. Perhaps another video showing the guitar pluck type movement and the response of the horse - while in trot? Nice video, thanks.

[@onedirectioner622]

I will be having my 3rd english lesson soon and I have already started posting and trotting.. This will be a great help for me although I don't have any riding boots yet.. I am not sure which type of boots yet..

[@chriscoetzer]

Thank you very much - excellent video!

[@robynclemen]

Many thanks. anything that will help my horse round up w/o me working on the reins is gratefully received by us both.

[@kirbyareed]

Thank you for explaining your methods so elequently in all of your videos first of all, and secondly, when you're teaching this aid to horses that have been mistrained in the past, what's the consistency in the pressure with the different gaits so it's not confusing to the horse? I've been trying to spot people doing this in other videos but it hasn't quite answered my question.

[@cathyhoffmann2119]

well explaned.

[@abhiizone]

You teach very nicely. Keep it up :)

[@cathyhoffmann2119]

well explained.

[@leannemoore3908]

Thankyou for clear explanation I now understand how to engage my ponies back it makes my downward transitions much softer. Leanne

[@EpicBlueSpikes]

what people have to understand is that we do not kick the living daylights outta horse to move forward, i beleive in well-timed appiled aids, i only use my aids when i want something and do not use them before or after, as the horse will become deaf if you have a constant pressure on there sides, you also need your horse forward even so slow down and stop, not many people understand that you have to move forward to stop. lol NICE VID MATE! :D

[@mesatop5]

Interesting!

[@DaniAh]

I wisssssh he was my trainer! One. Question: do you need spurs to do this?

[@stephaniemorrissey7250]

Good explanation xxx :-!:-*

[@ArttoRide]

To start with don't worry about you foot turning out a little, they should turn out at about a 45 degree angle to allow your lower leg to lie in contact with the horse. Trying to hold your toe forward only stiffens your leg. As to the head shaking, start by checking your saddle fit and checking the horse's back for soreness, that is usually the cause of that type of resistance.

[@oguzdemrbuken2564]

ı loved- correctly riding leg.

[@ArttoRide]

No you don't need spurs to do this. You can do this with your heel. After plucking with the heel, remember to put the heel back down again.

[@iloveballs444]

Hey there! I have started doing some exercises to strengthen my horses top line, such as hip thrust and rubbing her belly. Once the weather gets better and I start riding again, I'm gonna be doing this and extending her neck etc. Is there anything else that I can do to help her develop her top line and collection? I believe if I don't really catch her now she may develop kissing spine. She had a while off from intense riding, and really lost her raised back and top line. I have gotten her to collect before, and keep a raised back, but I really don't want to force her into collection. She usually trots around with her head high and pony steps. She's got tons of potential and I really want to bring that out in her. So, if you have any more ways to develop proper top line muscles and a good collection id love to see them!

[@HorseLoverNoOne]

I know this may sound sill but from watching a few other videos my horse already has an "apple bum" like you said elsewhere to know they are raising the back but he tends to go around with his head up and ears forward as soon as i go faster then a walk, how in a trot to i get him to keep his head down or to like work in frame and how do i know if my horse is already lifting his back or not? (feel free to link me to a video that you feel explains it)

[@ArttoRide]

Study the side by side shots of the same horse in this video. youtube(dot)com/watch?v=I8cOq7YWXys Try to see the whole top line from the pole to the tail as one long muscle and see is you can see it engaging and how once it does, how evenly the horse swings it's front and back legs on the diagonal pairs. So it's not just the butt that has to develop it's the entire length of the back.

[@swheill]

Is it possible to ask the horse to raise it's back in this way without the use of the spur? I have a sensitive horse, and it's not that I'm against using spurs, but I'm merely curious wether it's possible or not- as I've understood it, it's somewhat of a knee-jerk reaction, like being ticklish? Can I get the same response without the spur if my horse is sensitive?

[@ArttoRide]

Answered by Art2Ride Associate Trainers: Tytti Vanhala I think it is. Well, at least I think I got such a reaction when I so to say 'plucked' Pöly with just my heel. He seemed lift himself instantly better. But it most likely is easier with spurs. Yvon Hoogervorst I think that you can do it without spurs when your horse has learned to engage his back. But it's important that you don't unintentionally move your leg. Because your horse will be confused. Chelsea MacPhail Yes you can use your heel to have the same effect. You want to make sure that you are using the same motion of plucking up on your horse's side such that your leg is able to hang low enough on their side that you are able to influence the abdominal wall to engage and therefore lift the back. After you make this motion make sure that you relax your leg by the horses side again. Marnie Maciborski Yes, Spurs are designed to lift the horses back. However, they are an aid to be used only as a refinement after your horse has learned to lift its back through proper strengthening and training which all horses are capable of sensitive or not. Angel Klawiter Yes you can use your heel to ask to lift your horse's back. The heel and the spur should have the same effect on the horse when asking to lift their backs especially if the horse is sensitive. The spur (and riding whip) is basically just an extension/reinforcement of the natural aids (such as your seat and leg) so you should be able to achieve the same effect of asking the horse to engage his/her abdominal muscles and therefore lifting the back. However you want to make sure that your horse already has the strength they need to carry the rider and maintain a lifted back under saddle. Remember that each aid should be given quickly and clearly and then instantly go back to not giving the aid. You can repeat the aid, but don't hold the aid. This can cause the horse to dull to the aid, and you also want to ensure that if a response is not given to your aid you want to make the correction so that you keep that sensitivity to the aids. Tricia Yates Yes you can use your heel without spurs to get the horse to lift its back. You use the same plucking motion. You can back this up with a light tap with a whip at first if your horse doesn't get it, and as Chelsea said, release as soon as you feel your horse respond. William Faerber The reality is you will pass a point in your life where you don't need them at all because your leg will be so completely relaxed that the slightest touch will engage the horse that's the real key the relaxation of the aids. Then, if your leg is long enough, then you can give a little upwards pluck of the heel alone and you'll get the same response. These techniques are difficult however and take years to perfect. So to put it in simple terms, in the beginning you ride without spurs and you use your whip to enforce the action of your leg if the horse doesn't react when you touch with your leg. Then when your leg is still enough you can begin to learn to ride with the spur. as your legs complete the process of developing complete relaxation and you learn to ride with much more subtle aids you won't need the spurs at all. Katherine Potter That is cool. I remember watching my first musical freestyle in the late 1980s. It was mesmerizing to watch this woman cue her horse to do a pirouette by rotating her foot on his side. I don't even think she touched her roan Andalusian with the gold fringed mane - just the movement of her calf in that rotating motion was enough for him to know what to do. Gorgeous - I was in tears most of the ride and vowed that that would be my goal in life - to ride like that - to Sarah Montrowl I was about to say, William Faerber, you helped me out a lot with learning how to help reinforce that pluck with my whip with Fleur because she was so big barreled I couldn't get under her as well. This particularly clicked into place when we started to work her in hand, teaching her to step deep and come up through her back. Using the whip is that same spot while riding her after the pluck with the leg made it easier for her to understand. By the end of our time with her it felt like you needed just a slight bump with the leg to get her back up. Allison Emily Brunelli I believe you can test this concept and play with this concept in the work in hand.

[@maria456ification]

hi would like to now if i have do his all a time wen i troting ''?

[@ArttoRide]

Yes he certainly could have mouth/teeth issues. Also check his saddle fit. So many horses that are in pain due to poor saddle fit will shake their heads and show discomfort.

[@hoorselover]

1:27 aww :3

[@ArttoRide]

Yes, with your heel. After plucking with the heel, remember to put the heel back down again.

[@Jean5160]

Can I get a 21 yr old horse to round his back with this procedure? I don't know how old he was when he was started.I have had him 9 years. and no one has ever told me to round his back, and I do believe this would help him . I have bought several saddles some better than others. I found one that does not make his back sore. But he is not rounded.

[@ArttoRide]

+Jean5160 You need to go back to the work on the lunge and from the ground to be sure the horse is strong enough to lift its back before you try it mounted. If you do that and go through the steps necessary to develop the horse correctly it will have no problem rounding its back.

[@Jean5160]

+ArttoRide Thank You Your videos are great.

[@Slomanna]

My horse will shake his head (up and down) if his bridle is not fitting right, or if he's got a tummy ache. Could he have any mouth/teeth issues?

[@sarahlanham3792]

concept*

[@zoep-j3854]

Would it be appropriate to use this "back engagement button" as part of a half halt?

[@ArttoRide]

Yes, as we always want to keep the horses back up when we ride. I hate the term, “Half halt”, as it makes people think it is something done with hands. It is really just a bad translation as in French their word means to balance. It should be called a half forward as it is only by engaging the back and hindquarters that the horse can become balanced as compared to just slowing down as we see in so many Dressage horses today.

[@wafaa7505]

is it ok to start this with a 7y.o thoroughbred which isn't familiar with spurs ? :)

[@ArttoRide]

Wafa a Yes, but be sure that you always tough with the leg before the spur and be sure that you are not spurring with each stride.

[@wafaa7505]

thank you!

[@bishpleeez]

i didnt know that one can use the spur to ask the horse to lift its back. i always touch his belly with my fingers while grooming and he does it. my horse is a "llama" sometimes, as he is very looky and also sometimes has trouble with getting his hind end going. so how can i get him to lift his back earlier? i always ride him with very long reins in the beginning, also in trot and canter (just to get him moving, he is a little lazy and needs enough time to warm up and find his rythm and balance). but when he really starts to go forward, lifts his back and bends his neck nicely to seek contact with my hand, it's already almost the end of our training session. how can i get his hindquarters moving more under him without having to ride "without" reins first? his lookiness also often spoils everything and he runs around like a llama above the bit and drags his hindquarter along behind him and it's difficult to bring it back underneath him again. i always try to keep him working and entertained (trot - walk and trot - canter transitions, bending, volts, serpentines etc.) but it always takes soooo long for him to soften up and accept the bit. he is a really good boy, but nearly 15 minutes walk and 20 minutes trott and canter with long reins still isn't enough warm-up for him? i don't think there's something wrong with the saddle or bridle, i have the saddle and his teeth checked regularly. i just think i have a stiff horse...? anyone here with the same problem?

[@ArttoRide]

Teach him to lunge correctly and then ride after. It sounds like your horse just really barely has the strength to get over his back so get him there without your weight first and then you will have an easier time when you mount. Be sure that your saddle is side enough between the panels, see Karens video on saddle fit to be sure yourself.

[@bishpleeez]

ok, i will try to lunge him more often and see how he develops. thanks!

[@ArttoRide]

No, only when you are asking to bring the horse's back up more. But of course, in the beginning that will be quite often, until the horse develops self carriage.

[@KarlaRobyn]

Is it harder to get An ex racer into a good rounded collected outline? He's -11 nearly -12 but super sparky - am I pissing in the proverbial??

[@ArttoRide]

Answered by Art2Ride Associate Trainers: Amber Matusek I think it is harder to get any horse that has already had incorrect training but they can all learn as long as there is not some physical damage that would prevent it. It might take a little more time and patience. U dont want to start with any "collected" outline. Just long and low and wait. Waiting for true relaxation! I am working with an off-track Thoroughbred that looked completely lame was around 10 years old. The person working with him daily is just doing walk and small amounts of trot on the lunge line. It has been 4 or 5 months and he is starting to look more sound and i was able to ride him the the stretch relaxed at the walk and trot. Don't be in a rush!!! Chelsea MacPhail I agree with Amber. It definitely takes time however most of the people starting out with this training are having to retrain their horses to teach them how to stretch so you're not alone! Focus on the stretch and once the strength over the topline develops so will your horses ability to collect. Yvon Hoogervorst I don't think that breed or discipline makes a difference to get a good moving horse. Is he using his back correctly? That is more important. And collection can only be accomplished by sustainable training; make sure your horse uses his back correctly at first. Not all the horses are the same, but beware that it will takes at least 1,5 years to get a good top line. From there you can think of collection. Katherine Potter Will constantly says it takes 2 years to put a topline on a horse whatever the age, training, or disability. I think the answer is 'no' it isn't harder (individuals are more difficult than others for sure however!)

[@ArttoRide]

art2ride(dot)com

[@janicefjohnson1]

Do you use both legs to engage horse's back or just one side?

[@ArttoRide]

+Janice Johnson It depends upon what you are doing, If you are doing a shoulder in for instance, it is your inside leg that is doing most of the asking but the reality is that sometimes it’s both together, some times it’s alternating. It depends upon which way the horse is bent or if he is straight and of course what gait you are in.

[@janicefjohnson1]

Thanks, that explains a lot to me.

[@ArttoRide]

We travel all over for clinics. If there is enough interest where you are and you would like to host an Art2Ride clinic please contact Kali (our clinic coordinator) at: [e-mail] and she can give you all the information and get an Art2Ride clinic booked for you!

[@lolalivelong71]

thank you so many people are so miseducated :)

[@annaholly5707]

olivemyee get a smaller horse then